larryllix

I have one KPL and use one scene from the MS to direct connect via a scene to the KPL load lights. For the keys A,B,C,D I do not use scenes but only programs. This depends on whether you want to do logic with to symbols and how fast you need a response. I use my keypad buttons for combination sequences. For manually operated switches and buttons controlling lights with a ramp on delay or a fan speed the small ISY program delay is never noticed. For a MS, with responding light, the ISY program delay is unforgivable IMHO.

Yup Stu is correct. I use my cell phone charger plugs to charge them. I was thinking of another unit I charge occasionally. Apologies and thanks Stu for catching that.

My garage door opener batteries have gone for about six years so far but use a bunch of CR1632 and another size cell. My mini remote has a hard time with 40 feet through a brick exterior wall to a SwitchLinc. This is dependent on which angle I hold it on so I know it is marginal from my firepit to the front door Swichlinc. The batteries in the miniremote are rechargeable and with very occasional usage, maybe twice per week, they last about six months. A micro USB is used to recharge it via a standard USB adapter. Edit: "mini USB" was corrected to "micro USB"

There is nothing to activate the scene in your program, only light level adjustments. I assume the scenes contain the SwitchLinc and KPL buttons as controllers in the scenes. What doesn't work?

On the SwitchLinc Dimmers this is a Fade Up or Brighten command signal and you can use that in programs to operate more stuff. I have no ToggleLincs but I would imagine the same thing applies to it. Add an extra line in your programs to catch the operator error (both signals styles) and function the same unless you split out the "style of flick". Do the same for Off and Dim in those programs.

According to the Quickstart Guide . "Quick Start Guide ToggleLinc™ Relay – INSTEON® Remote Control On/Off Switch (Non-Dimming) Model: 2466S, (15Amps) Rev 5.0+ Your new ToggleLinc On/Off Switch allows you to dim and remotely control any light in your home at the touch of a button" I would think they used the same smarts as the 2466DW and changed the triac to a relay.. ISY my not support the signals it can send out though.

On the SwitchLinc Dimmers this is a Fade Up or Brighten command signal and you can use that in programs to operate more stuff. I have no ToggleLincs but I would imagine the same thing applies to it. Add an extra line in your programs to catch the operator error (both signals styles) and function the same unless you split out the "style of flick". Do the same for Off and Dim in those programs.

When the winged warriors came out it was so much better. You can start them fast with a finger twisting spin, right on the tip, to capture the wires, you so painfully made even lengths, and then you can twist right into the insulation with little effort. You just hoped you didn't have to untwist those after the linesman pliers were on them. Some got some bad burrs. Just to reminisce, how about the old Marr connectors and trying to get all the tips lined up while you performed accidental surgery on your wrist when the slotted screwdriver slipped out of the slot up your wrist? Then you put the cap on and it usually fell off later.

I thought of this later, not to confuse you ay more though. here is how I like to do this. This is for the purpose of the view in Admin Console so you know at a glance by colour what the program is doing. MBath-SS-Syncrolinc - [iD 004A][Parent 0068] If Control 'MBath SynchroLinc' is switched On And Control 'MBath SynchroLinc' is not switched Off Then Wait 15 seconds Set 'MBath (Steam Shower Fan)' On Wait 1 hour Run program (else) MBath-SS-Syncrolinc Else Wait 10 minutes Set 'MBath (Steam Shower Fan)' Off Edit: correct to 'else'

Fabulous! Shower on dude!

These sound really handy and more secure when you have more than three conductors in one connector. For two or three conductors and probably price I think I would still prefer my nuts twisted even if it does cause some bruising on my wire around the joint.

You should be able to see the button status update in the device page in the Admin Console. I don't add my remotes to the scenes. I use a program to operate the scene devices from the mini Remotes though. I add them to SwitchLinc programs so they clone all the actions available from a SwitchLinc Dimmer. So far, I have 8 different scene that operate from one SwitchLinc Dimmer and mini Remote all from one button/paddle. Off = all off Fast Off = whites off,coloured lights on then rotate through colour schemes Dim = low whites and preset colour scheme around rook perimeter Brighten = bright whites On = TV mode then toggle with Reading modes. Fast On = Whites on full and coloured on full white toggled with just perimeter coloured on full white. If Control from SwitchLinc Dimmer is On OR Control from Remote.A is On Then turn scene.Reading On Else -- Repeat program for each different scene.

Years ago I had a home wired with aluminum conductor and the electrician used the push in self snagging receptacles. I had one burn my wife's hand once. The short sub is really hard to splice. Since then we have learned a lot about aluminum wiring but those self-snagging connections still make me nervous and I am a little wary of these types. I assume these have a larger saddle contact area in them to be more recently approved.

If they are approved for use in your country then use them. I still like the wire-nuts and believe they give a better and faster connection, especially with the wings on them.

I don't see any CULUS or CSA on the package. I assume this is listed somewhere.

Need that Else invoking phrase. If Control 'MBath SynchroLinc' is On AND Control 'MBath SynchroLinc' is Not Off Then Wait 15 seconds <----avoid the changed-my-mind Set 'MBath (Steam Shower Fan)' On Wait 1 hour Set 'MBath (Steam Shower Fan)' Off <-- bad signal insurance Else Wait 10 minutes Set 'MBath (Steam Shower Fan)' Off Edit: You are correct, I forgot the AND

LCD readouts are visible best and dependant on the voltage applied. Older LCD units always had a contrast adjustment and the best angle was adjustment dependent. Temperature affected the readouts somewhat also. Imagine that for a thermostat? If it is new you may consider the warranty complaint system.

The from-to construct only triggers program execution at the two times listed. However as a condition the from-to construct works as a filter evaluating as True between the two times. This can be dangerous as unsuspecting programmers using the from-to construct as a filter condition often get caught with the 'to' time clause executing the Else section of the program. Always keep this in mind when you use lines in the Else section with a time frame. Disabled programs do not have this behaviour. You're on your way to designing some fancy stuff that will tickle your imagination. ISY forever!

As jerlands stated above but I would do it with an internal loop. Program - 'Test': If From 08:00:00AM To 10:00:00PM (same day) Then Repeat every 10 seconds <---this time is plus the internal Wait = 20 seconds Set 'Lamp' On Wait 10 seconds Set 'Lamp' Off Else Set 'Lamp' Off

Try this. The parenthesis supercedes the AND which has a higher priority than the OR. It should have worked on Mon at 5:30 regardless If From Sunset To Sunrise (next day) And ( On Tue, Wed, Thu Time is 6:00:00AM Or On Mon Time is 5:30:00AM ) Then In Scene 'Outside / Side Yard' Set 'Outside / Side Yard' 100% (on Level) <--- set scene ON not modify it Wait 15 minutes In Scene 'Outside / Side Yard' Set 'Outside / Side Yard' 0% (on Level) <---set scene Off, not modify it Else -No actions EDIT: OberKC is correct.I missed the then problem. Modifying scenes does not activate them.

Look for the 1011 beside each device in the device tree. My PLM restore took me over 12 hours with 14 battery devices.

In a previous house I had a 30 Watt siren mounted in a cold air duct. When that thing went off you couldn't stay in the house. Nobody could run for the panel fast enough to shut it off. A horn would take some doing though. A big 12v adapter and an I/O Linc should do it. I have 60w 12v adapter for my LED strips that are fairly cheap. In a boathouse that would make your ears bleed.

Many of us disable the Off portion of the MS and never receive the Off signal. This would nullify the need for the 'control is Not Off' line and the else section. Notifying of no motion anymore is done on a timer inside the MS and this same function can be done and better controlled inside ISY programming. A few ways come to mind to only get one notification of motion. Your method looks good to accomplish this also. 1) Use a variable as a flag, set it upon motion, check it when further motion is sensed. If the flag is set then the notification is already sent. A timer program is needed that resets the flag after X time of your choosing. 2) Use a second program that disables the triggering program and then re-enables the triggering program after your selected time. eg: First program If control MS is switched On. AND time is from sunset to sunrise Then run (if) second program Else --- Second program If additional conditions Then disable first program notify you of motion wait x minutes enable first program Else --- Now some of the dangers of this is you are asleep and/or away and you get a notification. What do you do? You have no second opinion of a violation in the boathouse. The webcam could be that second opinion before manual action is taken. I have multiple MS units in different rooms so further movement can determine false or not. You will probably need an RF to Powerline bridge device to send you signal from the MS and that can be done with a LampLinc device. If you comply with that you can use it to turn on lights in the boathouse and act as a scare tactic to help get the intruder out. Flashing would be even better to create some confusion. Noise also helps.

The MS units and the Leak Sensors have different styles of reporting their health. I assume the Door Sensor is the same as the Leak Sensors. MS Units ------------ Have no heartbeat Send a low battery signal when a voltage threshold is crossed Report immediately You have to be monitoring the signal at the time to know. If you do not have a LowBatt node, in ISY, for your MS units they are not linked correctly. FACTORY RESET (always) and start over. Leak Sensors (and door sensors?) -------------------- Have an every 24 hour heartbeat - older units alternate sensing On and Off. Newer units just send On. Do not send a low battery signal - you assume "long time no hear" = lowbatt. You have to be monitoring every signal sent and use a timer to know if the next one is late.

I need to experiment with that one again. I tried that with one of my first units but it seemed to miss action right in front of it. I always have trouble with the one in my MBR as it sees me walk past in the hallway and triggers unnecessarily. Too bad that wasn't on the remote setting options.