larryllix

It should be fairly easy with V5++ so far. When the fan turns on you save the current seconds since the start of the day in a variable. When the fan turns off you use the current seconds since the start of the day and subtract the variable = difference. Run another program if the difference is over the amount of seconds in 24 hours subtract that many seconds. Add the resultant difference to the accumulated seconds in the total fan run time. Another program sends the variable to you by email each month before midnight and resets the variable to zero. Divide by 60 for minutes, and 60 for hours before sending as desired.

I wonder if some of that is from the burner electronics or mostly all fan motor? Trouble is furnaces don't usually plug in and a clampon wattmeter is required to measure properly. Fan motors vary their power factor a lot depending on air movement. When lots of air is being moved the power consumption (Watts) is high, and when the filter is clogged or vents are closed the power consumption (Watts) is low but the current (amperes) do not change much. The power factor just drops as the motor is mostly an inductive load not doing much work. ECM motors are a whole different beast though. I would be surprised that any furnace would only offer 1 speed on the motor. If nothing else, usually the second speed offers isolation for the A/C fan control so an extra isolation relay isn't needed.

Yeah. I thought I was smart and went after an ECM motor for just that reason but I got screwed on some of the less obvious features, like an odd filter that costs a fortune and only from the furnace company or custom made. I found more common size that fits with an inch hanging out and ignore the leakage. The other item is howl at high speed but that was an installation flaw from the local "professionals" in a small town. The A/C suffers with the lower fan speeds.

As long as the motion cuts across the face of the MS horizontally (left <--> right with normal mounting) you should be fine. The Insteon MS units are quite sensitive but also have a jumper to desensitise them if desired. Mine picked up my bird at about 25-30 feet in a cage, once.

Ouch. 400 Watts. Yeah you don't want to be running those babies continuously. I was involved in electrical utility high bill complaints and 15-20 years back running a furnace fan continuously added about 40-50 dollars to your monthly bill. I would hate to think what is would cost these days with the energy ransom going on. Simple calcs would show. 400 Watts x 24 x 30 x $0.25/kWh (guess) = $72 per month. YMMV. We found the old fan motors didn't really cut back much energy consumption on lower speeds either. One of the problems I have suspected with low speeds also is, in some systems a few registers will not even get any air to come out. The piping system is a very tricky thing. Once air gets moving through one vent it can hog most all the air because the others have turbulence etc. Worse, once some get warmed up the chimney effect can draw most of the air hogging the major share of it again, even after the furnace fan shuts down. The old gravity fed furnace effect and problem. In short I believe you want at least a medium to high speed on a cyclic basis. Continuous low speeds on an AC induction fan motor are probably not the best solution. The occasional 'shots" of higher speeds are probably best. Your insulation project will help all this big time with less draughts and less energy consumption. Fan circulation will be needed less and easy to adjust with ISY. Nice week coming for last minute outside work!

Who wouldn't want the maximum air from thr top of a mountain though ? I was trying to keep my humidity over 50% but I was going through 4-5 gallons of water from a portable humidifier per day. I carted water way too often. After a few years of I decided just under 40% was fine but slightly dry on the throat times. The water consumption to maintain that was brutal and now much more reasonable. My HRV needs to be backed down somewhat in the winter as it is a big burden for the humidity changing with dry winter air. This my next project to automate the air exchange on a smarter basis.

The same problem occurs during A/C season when the house hits it's temp mark and it is cool outside in the middle of the night. No circulation occurs. During A/C season I set my stat Wake period to 3 AM with a temp drop of 0.5 degrees just to prompt an air circulation and avoid that stuffiness that happens when your bedroom fills up with carbon dioxide from exhaling.

Carefully examine the AM,PM on your clock as well as the +/- on your longitude setting.

Have you checked logs, programs, and events for tight looping programs tying up the ISY engine ?

Even every few hours would be good from my experience depending on the cold spots in your house. I find one of the most important times is about 3 AM whem you temperature setback has caused the fan to not run for hours and the bedroom air is getting stale. Of course, length of cycle can be varied for economics of energy by sensing away etc.

I take the tracking ingo page, print it out, and sign it, then tape it to the outside of my door. UPS snd Fedex have no problem leaving the package when a signature is required.

I used the silicone straps with #4 screws. I was using the stick down 5050 strips but the adhesive is a waste of time as once the strips gets warm it lets go.

My admin console does the same thing if ISY gets too busy. It just gives up. Using v5.0.2 beta. This happened after replacing batteries in three MS units. One ended up having to be being factory reset and restored but then ISY began acting really weird and constantly busy to the point I couldn't control it all. I finally had to unplug it and reboot. Things work better now. It seems every time I replace batteries in this one MS I have to start over with it. It does the rapid LED flash thing when the batteries get weak. How to drive a weak battery into the ground faster. If another PC can access it look for program flashing in a tight loop that is tying up comm channels to your PC and the ISY CPU. Right click and select stop.

Yes oberkc is correct. Your use of the "control" statement makes your program just fine and I missed that. As others have suggested the clock function seems to be a problem. Check your sunset and sunrise times as well as your Lat/Long settings.

Do it in the summer or with a heat gun. They like to break in the cold. Stay off shingles if there is any frost on them. Not that we would have that in Canuckistan.

The two program approach may not solve the other problems your OP complained about (after reading more closely) but it may be worth a try.

If you set NewVar =1 then OrigVar will flash 1 and then immediately back to 0. Since the Else clause also sets OrigVar back to 0, you avoid continuous oscillation. OTOH, OrigVar should only stay 1 for a few milliseconds as it will then trigger the Else clause to run. This may be OK if your logic at the other end can handle the quick logic changes.

Did you want to do this increment in Tasker or ISY? With ISY, Tasker could set a state variable to non-zero value, triggering an ISY program to increment another variable, and then set the Tasker controlled variable back to zero. Tasker could monitor the variable to control further action if confirmation is required.

Yeah, those are very hard to bore through. The cinder brick will dullen many a hole saw if you can even get through. You would need a diamond bore and try pricing one of those!! I remember trying to bore a smaller hole through those and threw away about 6-7 carbide bits before giving up. You have to pull bricks out, break them and then mortar them back in.

...and birdproof the vent outlet. Our neighbourhood developed a bad bird problem in the KW area. I watched gracos in full speed fight open those flaps on the vents and fly right through without hardly slowing down. Crawling in the Rockwool and Fibreglass for days on end out at the lowest points of the attic to replace these vent tubes was the thrill of my life. The lice bath I got on one was great too. I didn't swallow any up two stories on a wobbly ladder.

You are going to need two programs to stop the program from triggering due to sunset by disabling that program so it only acts as a filter and not a trigger. If Control 'ZW Kitchen Door Lock' is switched Key/Manually Unlocked Then Run (If) 'Program2' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Program2 (disabled) ------- -------- If From Sunset + 15 minutes To Sunrise - 15 minutes (next day) Then Set Scene 'Sofit / Sofit Backlanding' On Set Scene 'Sofit / Sofit Deck' Fast On Set Scene 'Sofit / Sofit Driveway' Fast On Set Scene 'Outside Rec Driveway' On Set Scene 'Garage Front Outside' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

The MiLight strip controllers remember their colour and brightness settings. No need to include complex network resources in your ISY initialisation to turn them off while you are on vacation. With the MiLight controllers just don't get cool white RGBW strips. Get the RGBWW, 5050 strips because you cannot adjust the white temperature or mix in RBG with the white. The Warm white is about 3000K and a really nice working pure bright white. I got thinking about the whole Hue bulbs and they seem to be trying to accomplish their feats without using a white LED and only three LEDs. This resulted in no green whatsoever, very poor blue, indigo instead, and the white must have a very poor CRI of about 40-50 at best. Most of the colour spectrum would be missing without using broad spectrum LEDs for white bulbs. hmmmmm...I wonder where I can get a colour wheel to test this on my Hue bulbs to see how many different colours are MIA.

These are synchronous motors and do not like to be out of synch with the power supply. They will probably buzz a lot.

I believe you may have some lines of code incorrect or copied incorrectly. If both lines are actually to enable/disable the 'Boathouse Sensor Day2' program, it appears you have gone to a lot of trouble to insure that the timer will not be retriggered. Even without the disable/enable the program will have to time out and shut off the beeper before it can be triggered again by the MS. The use of a variable to pass the trigger also insures that no retriggering can take place. With the Off disabled in the MS this could all be fit into one program but you lose your non-retriggering, if this was desired. Boathouse Sensor Day2 - [ID 0042][Parent 003D] If Control 'Motion Sensor-Sensor' is switched On Then $sBoathouse_Entry_Day = 1 Set 'IO Relay' On Wait 15 minutes $sBoathouse_Entry_Day = 0 Wait 10 minutes Set 'IO Relay' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') With the usage of a variable to pass the trigger the enable/disable isn't necessary as the variable can only be set to 1 by the MS. Only the second program sets the variable back off. Therefore the time and program 2 cannot be retriggered until the second program says so by setting the variable back to 0. Yes, if the variable wasn't being used a trigger passing element you would have to bring the enable/disable into play to stop repetitive retriggering of timers. Since you disabled the MS Off function it cannot stop the program from running either so the enable/disable isn't necessary to insulate against that logic trigger either. Boathouse Sensor Day2 - [ID 0042][Parent 003D] If Control 'Motion Sensor-Sensor' is switched On Then $sBoathouse_Entry_Day = 1 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Boathouse Entry Day Timer2 - [ID 0041][Parent 003D] If $sBoathouse_Entry_Day is 1 Then Set 'IO Relay' On Wait 15 minutes $sBoathouse_Entry_Day = 0 Wait 10 minutes Set 'IO Relay' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

I assume you are referring to the thermostat losing power and not the ISY. I don't think there anything ISY can do to force a thermostat to send it's temperature. You just have to wait for a change of more than about 1.5 degrees. I leave the batteries in my 2441ZTH units and when the grid fails they don't.