larryllix

If you have a backup heat source, as you would in a colder climate the 2441TH doesn't have the proper logic for a heat pump. Heat pumps usually have a second heat source that cuts in after the heat pump cannot keep up with the temperature in the house. Most dual stage thermostats like to cut in the second stage (backup and expensive heat) after the first stage runs for a bit and doesn't resolve the heat call. Your backup would cycle frequently and cost you more bucks. Typically a heat pump stat would cut off the heat pump once the backup heat cuts in to avoid excessive wear and tear and/or inefficient running of the heat pump compressor in deep cold temperatures. Dual stage stats run both together. From the online manual. CAUTIONS AND WARNINGS Read and understand these instructions before installing and retain them for future reference. IMPORTANT: HOW DO I KNOW THIS WILL WORK WITH MY SYSTEM? 1) Your existing HVAC can operate 2 stages of Heat and Cool. 2) Your existing thermostat operates on 24V. 3) Your system is not a heat pump. 4) Your system is not a 120/240V electric radiant heater. 5) Your existing thermostat is not millivolt controlled. 6) Your existing thermostat has 5 or more wires connected. Insteon Thermostat is designed to operate on a minimum 5-­wire, 24V HVAC unit. If you have only 4 wires you can purchase the “Add-­A-­Wire” adapter item #304AAW from www.smarthome.com. Note: Installation should be performed only by a qualified HVAC Technician or a homeowner who is familiar and comfortable with electrical circuitry. If you have any questions regarding installation, consult an HVAC Technician or call the Insteon Support Line at 800-­762-­7845.

Ouch! Thanks for jumping in there LeeG! I confess I have never seen that before. Where does that code chart come from?

Each scene defines the level of brightness and ramp speed for each device. They don't interact. Set up each scene for the brightness you desire. Make sure you are adjusting the scene levels and not the device local levels found for each device inside the scene "folder". Program lines can also set each device to any level independantly. For full on, regardless of dimming, use a fast on command.

Have you checked each device's links and compared them with ISYs links for accuracy? This is available by right-clicking on each device in the device tree in the Admin Console.

As others have noted, two controllers don't play well together. If the Hub turns a device on or off, ISY won't know about it and any logic used may not work correctly and vice versa. It can be done but most are not willing to do the homework to support this complexity and complications that arise from it. It's pretty easy. Just ... unplug device, hold down the linking button, plug back in, wait for the beeping to stop, let go of the linking button, right click on the device in admin console, select restore.

I am afraid you are going to have to visit each device anyway. Without a factory reset you are bound to have weird problems later with half links in your hub and some modules. Then you will wonder why your programs are working the way you think they should. This gets nasty, very time wasting, frustrating, and blamed on ISY usually.

There may be a no-spam filter stopping you from posting attachments for the first few dozen posts. I owned two hubs and sent them back for refunds. After using the ISY you will be quite happy with it having much more than just remote control over your devices and real HA. You will get lots of help from people here in the forum as questions arise. Programming can get as complicated as you want it to,

Use the full editor button at the bottom of the regular editor. You will find a button "Choose Files" at the bottom to post photos and pictures. They must under about 100K. Stress on the "Factory Reset" each device. You may also need to unlink them from the hub or disable the hub so it doesn't interfere.

Thanks Stu! IOW these are dual modules with sensing inputs as well as load controllers and get wired as passthrough modules to get both features. I never realised they could do this and thought they were responders only.

Thanks, but I do not see any inputs on these micro-modules. Edit: OK I didn't see the 'sense' wires and they are not marked on the SH wiring demo diagrams. New Q: Why the two sense wires? Are these wire ORed?

How does ISY know the status of the motion sensor?

This really begs the question. If you cannot communicate properly with a device, how can we factory reset it when the reason for doing it in the first place is we can't control it? I understand the need for this but logic prevents it from being possible usually.

These constant definitions work for low batteries and a few other functions by keeping lists. A notification with a list like 19212029 tells me the motion went from the downstairs landing into the great room, MBR, and then out the mudroom door. See the list above.

The number as ISY can't handle text, yet. I am hoping they will implement a swap text for numbers function in v5. But I define integer variable as constants for programmes like. $cMudRm is set permanently to 21 so in my programs I can use this. If MudRm.MS is switched on Then Set $sZone.violated = $cMudRm Else .... When the monitoring program sees motion by the state variable changing. If $sZone.violated > 0 Then Notify Larry.via text zone.violated Else .... The notification sends. ------------------------ Motion is detected in ${var.x.x.} room Zones 20:GathRm, 21:MBR, 29:MudRm 10:RecRm, 12:EveBr, 13:AftBR 30:Shop --------------------

I use ten motion detectors. I have assigned each room a numeric identifier. When motion is detected I simply assign a variable called $smotion.room with the room number. Anothet program watches that state variable and if it is not zero sends a text and email notification to me with that variable. This is acompanied by a small chartcof the room numbers to identify what room had motion. I also keep a two variable list of the last rooms activated so movement tracking is possible by reading the eight number list that the two variables can hold. No you do not need a separate program for each room. This also comes in handy for othet logic. If my away detector last sees motion in my mudroom 20 minutes are allowed. If any othrt room is triggered then 4 hours are allowed before marking the house empty.

I had a similar problem with Restore PLM and v5.0.2 beta. I had a hard time getting any one device to restore. ISY was so tied up with the loop, the individual device restore would not activate. I had to keep resetting the linking mode in the device each time the linking mode would timeout and hope that ISY would try to link to that device. This ranged from five to twenty minutes of hoping to hit the restore loop sequence right for each of dozens of battery devices. The loop does get faster as the number of devices goes down. If I had more devices I believe my ISY would have needed to be factory reset and started from scratch . Try allowing one device to link in at a time by repeatedly putting it in linking mode until ISYs timing coincides with the device and it suceeds.

Thanks. I only see one line with Tapatalk??? Edit: I see the whole program(s) now with IE, now.

You mean I posted and editted two compleyr programs, verified the posting and now the mahor part of the code is missing,? Anybody else see more than one line of code in my post?

Program "True" and "False' indicates the last state of the "If" conditional logic evaluation and is used for debugging purposes. If you pull down menu item at the top (can't remember which one) there is an option to turn on folder and program colours so this is more visible to watch program actions and status. This is not a problem but rather a feature. Devices have On, Off, analogue levels etc.

As per oberkc above. If 1.5 hr from sunset to sunrise next day. <---this will always trigger else and control motion sensor is on. then set outside fan on set outside lights on wait 5 min set outside fan off set outside lights off Else set outside fan on wait 5 min set outside fan off Time frames are a gotcha' in ISY. They need to be disabled to NOT trigger the else at the end of the filter condition. If control motion sensor is switched on. <----requires triggering enabled Then run (if) Program2 Else -- Program 2 (disabled) --------- If 1.5 hr from sunset to sunrise next day. <--requires triggering disabled=filter only then set outside fan on set outside lights on wait 5 min set outside fan off set outside lights off Else set outside fan on wait 5 min set outside fan off

That is what I set mine up to do but you have to add in the existing time passed to that point first. Most of the rest is just init to be able to survive a power failure.

Nice. My biggest problem was handling the midnight run over and cutting it off properly. If you don't handle the next day reset of the ISY seconds counter and the pump runs over midnight Example of midnight pump run time: You will get a (negative) -80,150 seconds reading if the pump started at 80,300 seconds and stopped at 150 seconds the next day.

LOL. I guess I misread the program with so many 'ump's. if you have a continuous run over midnight things will be off somewhat depending on how long the run lasts. 24x7 continuous run will register as zero seconds per day as only Offs count.. I also changed mine to minutes to look more of a mentally manageable time unit.

Yes I share the same type of experience with other products. You can't beat aartech.ca's prices in Canada either. Amazon and SH doesn't even come close after money differential and shipping. Order today and receive it tomorrow usually. Well, maybe not if you didn't vote for Dustbin.

From friends that have A/C in the attic they love it and claim they would never change that. Mind you if you put the compressor up there it will be a head shaker too. so just the evaporator coils. They claim the cool air drops down on the rooms from ceiling vents and has a better distribution. makes sense for economy of air pumping but the heat in an attic may be a detriment for keeping the air cold during transit. Turbulence is not your friend! I have a pipe run to my MBR that howls after a certain fan speed. I changed the run from 4" to 5" and changed the furnace boot size up too but it didn't work. Unfortunately, the only way to supply this run was right out of the plenum. grrrr... Right now I have a short piece of flex to accommodate an offset in the run which hasn't done jack skeet for the problem. Some day I am making a double walled pipe muffler that is supposed to work fairly well for stopping noise transmission. Some day I will be deaf anyway.