larryllix

Unfortunate ISY's future in Europe is dependant on a device manufactured by a company that probably doesn't want the ISY to exist at all.

Try this one http://isy/admin.jnlp It installed the nice direct, via Java icon on my desktop so I don't have to go through the browser load each time. This is the way the old one worked. Works much better.

Thanks! I got the reciprocal links our of the two modules. I am not sure what the side effect from it was or how it got there, but as a newbie trying to understand what a link is, the extra links were very confusing. An ON/OFF module I have only shows one link and that would seem to indicate the RF didn't link, even in the same room. The LampLinc was a problem to factory reset. That flow chart was very confusing. Right side up helped. It would be real nice if Insteon supplied real information with their modules instead of a sheet with "Plug in! Look! It turns on and off! They're wonderful!"

Excellent news! Here's hoping!

I wouldn't have thought X10 addresses would show up in the links table. This is the only possibility I can think of for my modules. They may have been linked to a same X10 address at some point in experimentation time. I have never created or used a scene with Insteon/X10 and they (two modules linked) have never been in the same room physically or software wise. In my case they don't interoperate, though.

I got thinking and doubting myself on this one. I began to wonder if I forgot to enable the programme when I ran the tests so I re-ran the test ensuring that the enable was on. It functioned the same with NO triggers of Then or Else occurring, and the programme remained False the whole time, when the From/To times were crossed.

I also have two modules, a LampLinc and an On/Off module with reciprocal links in them. The ISY links agree with the modules so restore doesn't remove them. I haven't noticed any ill effects from this lately. Is this a problem? The LampLinc module is a long distance, on different floor levels, and the On/Off would be half way to the PLM for it. Do hops affect these link tables?

Thanks! and Thanks!

Thanks again! Where is the list (above) of setup parameters being found? In short: is some other hardware or software needed to read temperature out of the 2441(Z)TH units or is this straight Insteon to the ISY?

Thank you LeeG !! Qs. - Does the 241ZTH (I see you have one) report the same (used just as a temp and humidity sensor)? - Can programmes do conditionals based on these analogue values similar to a variable? - How are fractional degree values handled? - Where is the setup parameters code being found?

I would be paralleling every line signal line and 24vac power (R,G,W1-2,O etc..) to ground at the furnace terminals where the ©ommon is tied to the case of the furnace with a 24vac MOV. The DC rating would be about a 48 vdc (28vac x 1.414 x 120%) to absorb any spikes on the waveforms. Do not extend the lead lengths! May have to put threaded grounding screws/terminals all along for connection. A/C hasn't been involved yet so it could be done later, if it works. OK, with them and a ferrite bead on each wire and it still does it, where is the trash can?

I didn't state my question clearly enough and subject to misinterpretation or maybe it was my Canuck accent, eh? "Can you read the analogue value of the temperature inside the ISY? Not just the binary status points but the real actual analogue value in some form of degrees." To clarify my Q: Can you read the actual temperature reading from inside the ISY that was transmitted from the 2441TH? Is it only whole number degrees or are there decimal places implied?

Too bad on all counts there. My next and last try was the ferrite beads on all the lines but easy access to them would be a necessity and lowest risk. Sounds like the support tech was another "know a bit" type. At least they didn't get you to unplug your fridge and spin around three times like some read off their scripted "fix" software. The Venstar units are a big jump in price from what I see. I just want something as a temperature sensor, so maybe you can tell me this since I have searched for several days , without success, repeatedly on this point: (I am going to spell funny ) Can you read the analogue value of the temperature inside the ISY? Not just the binary status points but the real actual analogue value in some form of degrees.

Neither "Then" nor "Else" runs as evidenced by my chime labelled "Furnace Fan" that didn't beep. If From 9:06:00AM To 9:05:00AM (same day) Then Set 'Testing / Furnace Fan' On Else Set 'Testing / Furnace Fan' On

In the User Guide for the ISY v4.0.5 (pg. 15/102) there is a URL that installs a cute Java app/icon on your desktop and further avoids the three successive logins asked in some other entry methods. http://isy.universal-devices.com/99i/admin.jnlp It sure would be nice to have an updated one for Java 7/51 and V4.1.2

I use X10 motion sensors and the first thing I do on motion is to hit the LampLinc modules with a FastON command in the ISY. That overrides the slow ramp ON. I cannot stand having a bulb slow ramp up in the trigger programme when motion is detected in a completely dark room. I love the slow ramp OFF, though. I have a Sunbeam 7W, 3000K, LED bulb (from Costco) on a LampLinc dimmer plug-in and it ramps up and down quite smoothly. There may be a bit of a jump from 0% to very dim when starting but no flickering at all. From what I have seen and read the cheaper and early designed LED bulbs have more problems with it. I have no wall mounted devices yet.

Yeah, do the best you can even if the foil splits and you get some individual wrapping of wires. Make sure of no contact or proximity to the bare wires and terminals. I am guessing but... the ignition will be a high-voltage discharge like a spark plug on a car, right? This creates all kinds of radio waves from the little antenna going from the transformer to the spark plug discharges the high voltage as a spark. Sparks and lightning over-discharge and then some ricochets back to the source in an attempt to equalise charges. This creates a high frequency ringing back and forth trying to find equilibrium. (think electron inertia). High frequency doesn't like to follow insulation properties and it bleeds to everything. Some wires going to your thermostat get this RF induced into them and attempt to find their way to ground, getting back to their source, through your thermostat. It's all theory, at this point, until it works, then it was the facts! Don't give up! It sounds like you are a stubborn SOB and that is good here.

The timing is easily identified after watching it about a hundred times. It occurs when the electric igniters begin sparking to ignite the gas. So I assume there are voltage spikes on the lines 3-4/sec. Oddly the two igniters are fed from two different spots on the control board. One is a simple one-wire bladed connection and the other also a one-wire entering into a black cylinder on the board. Can you shield the thermostat wiring from the high-voltage ignition wiring? Wrap them in aluminum foil and ground it with a clip lead? Careful with the contact spots! Try to keep loops and antenna formations away from the ignition wires? Bundled together. This sounds like RF through the air pickup. Is the furnace transformer (24v) secondary grounded to the furnace case? If it not visible a simple voltage check from both 24vac wires to ground should tell.

My shortcut icons both remained after clearing the Java cache and applications, on two computers also. It seems the earing operation cannot reach those. I had one on my desktop and one in my quicklaunch section of the taskbar that both remain from a handy link in the v4.0.5 manual. Is there a way to substitute the command string in these direct java invoking shortcuts? They seemed handier than going through the supplied link/methods.

So he only hurdle left is the 50Hz. frequency. A 230/120v step up/down transformer could solve your voltage difference needed for a PLM but the frequency is the basis/time base for the signal synchronisation between units. Please note that most of those small travel adapter/converters are NOT transformers, and usually just series diodes, and that would be what you want. After some reading about this it seems the RF is also locked to the mains frequency so that the mess networking technique stays synchronised on simultaneous repeats (hops) of transmitted Insteon data. Have you tried these 60Hz modules with a keypad or other transmitter/operator?

Can you identify the timing of the mode change with a cycle turning off? This would zoom in on the relays dropping out causing spikes doing the damage.

I don't know what happened to this thread but here was my last response. ----------------------------------------- Connect one wire of your transformer to the wire of the furnace transformer that is connected to the metal frame of the furnace (ground). If you can't locate a jumper to the metal case then it won't matter. It will probably have a black wire going to your stat.(24COM) Now take your voltmeter on AC volts and measure across from the free wire on your transformer to the "other" wire of the furnace transformer (live=24Rh&24RC). This terminal will probably have a red wire in it going to the stat (24Rh and 24RC). Make sure you stay on the secondary sides so you are only dealing with 24 volts, if you're are poking around inside the furnace. Now if you get less than 5 volts the secondary windings are in phase with each other. (small difference) If the reading will be about 50 volts then the secondary windings are out of phase. The voltages add up. Turn off power and change your transformer wire, connected to the furnace common, to the other wire on your transformer.(or reverse your plug) Repeat voltage test to prove them in phase. It may not make any difference but why have the higher voltage around? If you are doing this at the stat you will need to shove both established common wires into one terminal (24COM). Pull the red wire out of the R terminal(s) and replace it with your transformer live wire. Tape up the furnace feed R wire so it doesn't bark to anything. Good luck!

You would have to read in the homeseer.com forum probably for that. I only saw the PLM and the Hub was a beta thing at the time I was playing with it. You could check out these guys http://www.simplehomenet.com/cats.asp?id=23. In other discussions it came to light that Europe uses different RF frequencies for Insteon also, so you will have to watch your compatibility. The receptacles will be different on European modules. Here is a quick list of SmartHome devices that give some hints to European devices. http://home-automation.smarthome.com/search?view=list&w=europe

For a trial run I would get something and plug it into a AC wall socket completely separate from the furnace and prove the point first. I don't know how much electronic gadgetry you can borrow to try these things but before you go drilling and mounting things I would make sure your plan works first. If you can get it working reliably then start moving things in permanently. To try a doorbell transformer comes to mind. There are cheap 24v units but a 16v unit may work, also. (Edit: I can't find anything to support anything other than 24vac might work) Don't forget, you are going to have to tie the commons of the two transformers together to make your controls work. Only one 24vac side though, not both (live and common.! After doing some thinking I am becoming convinced the signal lines are the ones bringing the noise into the unit as per my second thoughts above. I am not sure, exactly what he components are on the 2441TH circuit board but they sure look like plain old triac output devices. This probably means no isolation or noise suppression on the lines that run the relays that run the fan motor, heating contactor, or A/C contactor. Coils are real nasty for putting out huge spikes that destroy electronics when interrupted (turned off). If you interrupt them at the peak of the AC waveform you can easily get 10-20 times the supply voltage in a short voltage spike! Interrupting them right on the sensitive circuit board is asking for trouble without special opto-isolating output parts. I doubt they have used that much protection technology there judging by the picture of the board. Another thing I just thought of: Do you have one of those modern DC fan motors with multiple (like 10) speeds? I have a GE one with programmable logic inside and one 24v AC input was phase sensitive. That means I was supplying 24vac from another transformer source and the fan motor wouldn't start off at it's slow speed and ramp up the way it was supposed to. I went through some voltage measurement with the factory guy on the phone and he freaked when I told him one voltage was 24.6v and one was 26.4v. When I retorted "What's the difference?" He admitted they used polarity sensing to reduce the number of logic inputs required. I temporarily changed the supply breaker over to the other 120 volt leg, matching the furnace supply, and the ramped up fan speeds worked again. I couldn't believe it... 24 volt A.C. system and it was polarity sensitive on a furnace fan motor!

If the PS works then focus on the PS wires for the beads. Putting both wires through one bead will knock out common mode noise but that doesn't sound like your problem with an almost isolated unit. If it had wires into a computer or another system that would be more likely. If you can only muster two cores put them on lead of the 24v supply at first. My second thought on this (editted) is it would be a nasty relay in your furnace on the heat, A/C, or fan control line, whose triac in the thermostat is breaking absorbing the counterEMF spike from the relay coil. Electronics don't like that and it is being done right on the thermostat's board. (thinking of the circuit board pictures nicely pointed out by Brian H) That would be the wires to try the toroid cores or steel nuts, next. I had to put a MOV on a relay that my TM751 (X10 RF receiver) to stop it from zapping a second unit on me. Absorbing the spike right at the source is usually best but we can get to that later. Or do both if the parts are in your hand. You could possibly wrap them a few times if the hole size and wire length permits. IOW pass them through the same hole core repeatedly the same direction (wind a coil). Hopefully you will get somewhere with this experiment. If this works for you I am looking at getting the wireless unit and that would give me some hope for it. If this works partially we are going to get some small despiking capacitors across those terminals too and possibly a low-voltage MOV if you have an electronics supplier near you. Who said you weren't an EE type? They are cheap enough these days but you would want something closer to the 24vac rating. http://www.digikey.com/product-search/e ... -07D820KTR I really want something to get analogue temperatures, as well as other values, into the ISY but I haven't seen any way to do that. It may take some A/D conversion using four or five bits and D/A math in the ISY to get values. The night is still young! We always want more!