larryllix

I would be sure you are correct about that although I have not experienced that yet. I am ln vacation so I cannot experiment with it. I still like the initial fast on in the first programmers though. I find the program called delay time objectionable for turning lights on. Bad keyboard so I won't elaborate.

I don't think this is is even possible for UDI to do. The blame is squarely on Smarthome's shoulders for refusing to make a PLM for use outside of the USA. The Hub is a LAN based device and any LAN PC can control it with proper software. All the ISY needs is a driver to interface to the Hub and it would be a much more up to date interface than a serial port device that may be discontinued any time. The Hub's price has come down significantly lately where it could compete and possibly undercut the price of a 2413S and a serial port cable.

It should work just fine but try to get an actual transformer unit. Most of the small units are just a diode for heating devices. A transformer should pass the insteon signals back into the 220v mains voltage.

Another possibility that works well for radiators with large thermal mass and therefore slow response is proportional or PWM control. To do this with crude method you could set up three programmed each with different on times that give a "pulses" to the heating elements. Let's say one has an On time of 14 minutes, one with 8 minutes, and one with 2 minutes. Now you evaluate your floor temp against your desired temp set point and run the desired gradient of heat programmers every 15 minutes. This would give you almost 100, 50, and 15 percent heat settings so your ceramic floor doesn't overshoot and undershoot your temperature setpoint If the Wait timer is ever allowed to use a variable the PWM (pulse width modulation) times could be varied infinitely with just a calculation. Off would be a 4th level of heat. I certainly hope there is some high temperature limit for this to override a stuck on module contact or triac.

So the tstat is sending it's raw data, but the IST is prescaling it and since it can't handle fractions it can't put out the same resolution it takes in? I assume you can do math with the 0.5 values though.

You may want to fasten the thing down so you don't come home to a Tupperware boat floating across the floor keeping a leak sensor high and dry as it floats across the room!

I think most newbies have a problem with so many programmes required to do what is considered "one job" or "one function". I know it really bugged me in the beginning. What can really help the feeling of tidiness of programme filing is the use of folders that may not be immediately evident at first when starting out. An example of folder lexicology Rear Lights '**** folder (no software) sunset '**** three programmes to do functions night morning

Industrial control systems (SCADA) that I dealt with almost always sent raw binary data for analogue values. It was up to the HMI (human machine interface) to convert the data to engineering units to be viewed by humans. This way no raw sensor resolution accuracy was ever lost other than a rounded off bit (digital bobble) at times. This was a huge Insteon mistake attempting to send data in the same format as viewed on the HMI LCD screen. It would be a simple job in the ISY to multiply the raw binary temperatures by a scaling factor and add a zero offset, as needed (what about Kelvin scales?). Keeping temps as one decimal place as a x10 value is something ISY could easily do and just as easily convert it back to raw binary to send back to the tstat for settings. Dealing with truncated scales inside a computer is another ridiculous design flaw. This forum is starting to save me money!

Check to see if the lights are OFF first and if they are NOT leave them alone. If Control 'Gathering Room / Motion' is switched On And From Sunset + 6 minutes To Sunrise + 6 minutes (next day) And Status 'Gathering Room / Floor Lamp' is Off Then Set 'Gathering Room / Floor Lamp' Fast On Wait 45 seconds Set 'Gathering Room / Floor Lamp' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Note the MS is coupled directly to the module via X10 but it causes the responding lamp to come ON very slowly and I don't like it so I hit it with a 'Fast On' immediately and it beats out the ramp up with an almost immediate full brightness. The ISY is fast if you don't call another programme first. I like the slow ramp off though.

You would have to use all or a good portion of this software http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i_Generic_Calendar_Using_Programs_and_Variables or hopefully UDI will add system variable access in one of the next version releases as per my request here. http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=13530. More voiced support never hurts their priority list.

I sure am glad to hear of your experiences with that one as it was next on my list of purchases and probably saved me a lot of anguish. The ability to query every parameter except the main one is a joke. It seems a lot of this stuff is designed by people that have never used it. A settable update/heartbeat time and pollable values or reporting by exception (change of value) would have been the best from my experiences. Every minute is a ridiculous scheme. Unfortunate. Pi will be next.

I believe I asked the question incorrectly and got information I already knew. I was enquiring about the second trigger that looked like it was to isolate the two events from each other but was actually explained previously in your post above as a way to cancel the timer running in the "Then" section. Thanks all!

Is it correct that "is switched on" would include "switched fast on" detection as well as plain "switched On"?

What would trigger the else? The If triggers section has to evaluate to False for the else section to run. This would usually be an MS sending an Off motion timeout. The MS timeouts were the ones giving you strange light behaviour (seeing different motion) and were replaced by the ISY programme timer which you can now control with various other decisions that can be added for times of the day etc. Eg: I have a MS and bedside lamp in my master BR. The lamp times off in 1.75 minutes beating the MS timer (as a back up insurance of 2 minutes). If I get up in the middle of the night to hit the bathroom it times out in 45 seconds so it doesn't stay on too long after I hit the bed again. Much longer times are wanted for evenings. It's not only a hobby, it's a lifestyle and an obsession! You'll get used to it!

No code supplied but.... What if you are home and forgot the door was open? Perhaps went to bed? Been there on that one. You could flash some lights or make some noise as a reminder and then if the door doesn't get closed in the next 5 to 10 minutes then send the email 'cause you're not home. If it's late at night close the door automatically as a last resort.

Meanwhile I am sitting on a small SCADA system RTU with 32 x 20A, 250vac latching O/Ps, 64 12bit bipolar analogue I/Ps, 64 dry contact status I/P and no ambition to write the polling routines to support the serial protocol needed after seeing things like this (CAI) that are close to Plug'n Play with only a limited amount of stress/excitement. This thing was used to control a private 1/2MW NG co-gen on our grid, when it was the rage era. But.. where's my application for it? I should put it up on some industrial used equipment site and sink the profits into all these little fun boards and gadgets. I can see the wig and blinking eyes on my snowblower already! Wait! How many extra bedrooms you got?

ooops... Sorry. I guess I only looked at the other two and assumed two total.

Nice! I think my wallet and my live-in monitor needs a rest for a bit though. I am still populating my great room with some dimmer wall switches, yet. **sigh** Let me think... Landscape the side yard this year? or CAI? hmmmmmm... I'm sweating now. BACK to reality! Time to get out and blow the snow out of the driveway. Snow banks are almost 8 feet high at front. No typo and it's not letting up this year! Thanks for the tease though!

I ran into this one that could do your job. Heat produced and size may be a consideration though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/24vac-24vdc-to-5vdc-converter-power/251362283053?_trksid=p2046732.m2060&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20000%26meid%3D4487592531891961588%26pid%3D100040%26prg%3D8920%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D131102781584%26

If you run Win 7 (likely Win 8 also) and your static IP assignment failed for some reason, you can run the "Network" app and it should show up so you can determine the IP address.

Awesome little board! Is there any prefabricated cases or power supplies for them?

USB wallwarts are usually much cheaper, easily available, and most are switching PSs now. They put out 5vdc and typically capable of 0.5A up to 2.0A. One comes with every cell phone, iPad etc. I think I have 30 of them here now.

The whole thing sounds dangerous to me. No matter how much insulation you use on pipes there is usually a scenario where the pipes may still freeze if you do not keep water flowing through them. There are pipe heating straps made for this but then you need some power in the attic too.

Those types usually say that. The Kitchen and Bath caulk silicones typically contain a fungicide to prevent mold. I silicone grease my probe to the side of my PV batteries and cover it with a bit of urethane foam to keep it mostly "thermally in contact" and influenced by the liquid inside.

Thanks LeeG. Further, I understand that Scenes in the ISY can control these LEDs. Is this due to an lacking feature in the ISY capability growth or something that cannot ever be resolved with the way the KPLs work, or is my understanding not correct?