larryllix

@Brian H: Yeah the definition is about the 'de-energised' state of the device. In industrial electronics we run into a lot of latching relays and devices that can stay in either state without being 'energised' blowing the standard definition out of the water. Then the 'a' and 'b' contact definition came into being. An 'a' contact is closed when the device is closed. A 'b' contact is closed when the device is open. A 'c' form contact has both on one contact blade (just to be confusing) These terms are often used on commercial garage door closer pallet contacts even though adjustable to any angle. OK, now when is a lock 'energised', 'de-energised', 'closed' or 'open'?

In addition attempt to switch the scene on and off manually to make sure it functions as you desire.

@oberkc (since there doesn't seem to be any way to quote somebody for clarity and that was very small of you ) The way I understand it is that "status" only triggers on the change of the device's status and "condition" triggers from the initiating signal stream to/from the device and the device does not need to change status position. 'Control' is based on signal stream. Triggers every time the 'On' signal to the ISY device's status is received from elsewhere. ie. monitors the data stream inside the ISY. The status does NOT have to change. If Control 'Gathering Room / Remote.C' is switched On Then Set 'Foyer / Doorbell.Back' On 'Status' is based on ISY's internal device status. Triggers each time the status of the ISY internal image value of the device changes to 'Not Off'. Since the 'On' status is not available for this Mini-Remote 'On', 'Dim', 'Brighten', or 'Fast ON' from Remote.C will trigger it **IF** it doesn't result in the internal ISY's device status as 'Off'. If Status 'Gathering Room / Remote.C' is not Off Then Set 'F Set 'Foyer / Doorbell.Back' On Yes I would have used the control also. A contact bounce could cancel the timer but then the remake of the contact should reinitiate the timers again. Interesting one... The garage light stays on during the whole open or ajar period. You may want a long timer for the garage door open period in case of a forgotten closing or door jam reversal.

Try a setting other than 0. I understand these come with a factory setting of 0 that may not be 'Off'. Read this from LeeG. http://forum.universal-devices.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=14117&p=110232&hilit=kpl+LED#p110232

Get an Insteon remote control to mount beside the switch and an Insteon lightbulb. The remote control would have to send a command through your ISY where you could lock it out. This could also be done with a MS and would probably work better. Put the mechanical switch back in and leave the light switch always on.

You need an "On" and an "Off" command to do both. The "Responding" condition shouldn't be in there. Multiple times need to have "OR" logic. Both can never be true at the same time and therefore your "Then" will never get executed, only the empty "Else" If . On Sat, Mon, Wed . Time is 2:00 AM OR . On Fri, Tues, Thu . Time is 1:00 AM Then . Set 'YardLights' On . Wait 2 Hours . Set 'YardLights' Off Else -

Not quite... This would be the step by step process: 1. De-solder and completely remove the internal sensor, uncut, undamaged. 2. Solder in the same place the bare wire ends of the wired sensor (which has its own sensor, of course). (If we stopped here, the unit would now get its internal temperature reading from the wired sensor (this is basically what the OP did).) 3. Connect the removed, original internal sensor to the wire terminal on the inside of the back cover (where the wired sensor would normally go). What we end up with is a reversal of roles: the wired sensor would act as the internal sensor and the internal sensor would act as the wired sensor. Now, I don't know if this would work, from an electronics perspective. Which is why I'm asking if anyone thinks it would. Sure. Shouldn't be a problem. The internal one, now wired as external, can be programmed to operate into heat and cooling contact output command triggers in the ISY as well as the external probe could be sent analogue to the ISY for further logic massaging including multiple logic trigger temperature points.

Many are running MobiLinc Pro on Android. It controls anything but variables, so far.

I set up my router to assign a permanent IP address to my ISY and other devices in a manual assignment (DHCP) table, inside the router. That way they are all static addresses I can depend on. Your router has to know what address your ISY is otherwise it can assign the IP number to another device and you could have duplicate addresses on your LAN. Then things don't work again.

I don't have an Elk but usually for most ISY devices there are two different styles of triggers in the pulldown menu. "status" and "control". One triggers events on every signal sent to the device and one only triggers events on the initial signal that changes the device state.

Do you have any dark/light sensors?

I don't know if this has been overlooked, misstated as Smarthome often does, or just misread, but the 2441ZTH manual states this. http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/2441zth.pdf#page=18 I have two of them with different firmware revisions but I have no remote probe to prove this works. This may not be supported in ISY as other features, such as humidity output contacts, are not supported.

Perhaps your ISP has changed their requirements affecting your setup. Rogers.com, in Canada, changed their port from 25 and every time I used it they sent me an email with some violation of security title and a link to their advertising page. duh! I read rumours they won't even pass data on port 25 to anywhere now. My new ISP demands a null password or the SMTP server just ignores the request. That one threw me for a loop in this day and age.

Even if UDI would allow the system information they current support in notifications to be written to variables, or just generally used in programs in place of direct values, it would resolve lots of these painful workarounds.

Mine was my ISP's server wouldn't take a password. A password not blank refused to be handled at all.

-Reverse the plug in the receptacle for the amp? -Test and/or tighten all ground and neutral connections for the amp and the dimmer circuit back to the distribution panel and possibly electrical system neutral to ground connections? (think to water meter). Make sure some plumber hasn't removed ground wires bridging or connecting near your water meter. -If you have a clamp-on ammeter check for current in your copper water pipe going to the street supply. Current there would indicate a poor neutral feed back to your utility supply transformer. This can also be measured by clamping around your plastic service stack or incoming pipe to your meter base. (reads differential current returning through the ground and not proper through conductors)

Yeah, we didn't get suckered by the media hype of the front load and stuck with our 25 year old suds saver model. We watch with amazement our son's monster sized machine do it's multiple wash cycles taking over an hour or the clothes still aren't cleaned properly. Our washing machine beats the dryer with it's 26 minute cycle including spins and rinses. We didn't find the wrinkle reducer on our dryer functioned well enough. We have different parameters to work with. BTW:It took us several years to figure out why the clothes smell. With the right fabric softener that doesn't happen, even after days of sitting wet. If Control 'Mudroom / Dryer' is switched On And Control 'Mudroom / Dryer' is not switched Off Then Run Program 'Dryer Finished.Alert' (Else Path) Wait 10 minutes Enable Program 'Dryer Finished.Alert' Wait 1 hour Send Notification to 'Text SWMO' content 'Dryer Didn't Stop' Send Notification to 'eMail SWMBO' content 'Dryer Didn't Stop' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Negative condition in "If" aborts "Dryer Didn't Stop" notifications. Program 'Dryer Finished.Alert' If Control 'Mudroom / Dryer' is switched Off And Control 'Mudroom / Motion.Mud Rm' is not switched On Then Run Program 'Dryer Running' (Else Path) Wait 15 seconds Set 'Foyer / Doorbell Button / Back Doorbell' On Wait 3 seconds Set 'Foyer / Doorbell Button / Back Doorbell' Off Set 'Foyer / Chime' On Wait 5 minutes Send Notification to 'Text SWMBO' content 'Dryer Finished' Run Program 'Dryer Finished.Alert' (Else Path) Else Wait 2 seconds Set 'Foyer / Doorbell Button / Back Doorbell' Off Set 'Foyer / Chime' Off Wait 2 seconds Disable Program 'Dryer Finished.Alert' Negative motion sensor condition before wait finishes can cancel the notification. We get a few sound maker notices and then she gets a text message after 5 minutes if the room doesn't see motion in there. That's our wrinkle prevention. The 1 hr. wait is in case the dryer door was left open or the timer got stuck. That happened once when the dryer was new. Edit: Corrected logic

I monitor the dryer. NG dryers only use 120v electrics. I can detect when the dryer door is open. This is important in the winter due to cold weather blowing in through the dryer. -The clothes forgotten clothes urine smell is from the wrong fabric softener. We went back to brand names years ago. - Clothes left in the dryer need to be ironed. In the washer isn't a problem for us. -Our dryer always has loads waiting to go in as it takes longer than the washer. Along with Apostolaskisl's recommendations just mount an external receptacle box on the back side of the dryer or the wall (use some BX) with a motor plug cord through a grommet out the back where the hole won't be seen. The SynchroLinc can be unplugged for maintenance on the bench and the RF signals should reach it outside of a metal shielding case.

I found a few links for you Lots of installation photos and info. http://cocoontech.com/forums/page/articles/_/tutorials/home-automation-tutorials/how-to-monitor-the-status-of-your-appliances-using-current-sensors-r58?start=1 Not sure if these guys deal them or not http://canada.newark.com/general-tools/ct800/10-wire-low-volt-test-leads-5/dp/59P4261?mckv=sXnaBkGDk|pcrid|23945925353|plid|&CMP=KNC-G-SKU-OTH-GENERALTOOLS Order from the source. http://www.mamacsys.com/distributors.htm

Current has to flow through the device not detect voltage. It detects current so a single connection to a voltage would not work. An electric dryer usually has about a 4800w element so the current would be too high for the SynchroLinc rating. If you are installing it inside the dryer cabinet, perhaps install a receptacle on the motor line and put a plug on the motor, making sure it is 120vac and you use proper heat rated wiring. There are discussions about using a CT device for this in another recent thread.

I guess I worded it wrong slightly. I meant that the PLM is more than just a modem. It must have some smarts to handle basic protocol handshaking and things.

Thanks! That was I was thinking. It seems the Insteon modules actually only talk to the PLM and not the ISY? I guess I could do this remotely online after the hardware was swapped.

I have discovered one thing regarding this so far: Notifications without any body text do NOT get sent! Since the event viewer (level 3) does not indicate any notification activity it cannot be concluded who isn't processing the blank notifications. Neither emails or SMS messages get processed. Here is the event without body text. Here is the event with a single period for body text Note: Regardless of how many lines of SMS and/or email notifications are sent the event viewer indicates the same [ time] line only.

This worries me somewhat. I may be away from the house for an extended time next year. If I purchased a spare 2413S PLM, and something went awry, would an electrician neighbour be able to swap it in easily? Is there any ISY process required to do this other than the obvious plug swapping?

Thanks for your ideas. I will have to investigate further before I get too rowdy changing all my programs to a folder disabling method. I do not prefer that method. I did run a few tests to see what was happening and two other programs ran fine and the one that sends notices didn't. This happened on 75% of the trials I tested. Thus my conclusion there may be a trigger table limit for each device or some other limitation in the software engine. I shall have to set up a side set of programs to experiment more thoroughly with this. SWMBO gets a little irate when the lights keep going on and off. It shows I have control.