larryllix

Just the way you wrote it but one condition per line. IF From sunset To sunrise (next day) <----Time between dusk and dawn AND ( Zone 1 violated OR zone 2 violated ) Then .... Click on the And() or Or() and slide them up or down to where you want. EDIT: Sorry Paul. I formulated this post and then the doorbell rang after which I hit Post. LOL

Back to basics. Control - [iD 005D][Parent 005B] If $Allow_to_Run is 1 Then Repeat Every 5 minutes <---- "Every" is a syntax error. It's just another 5 minutes wait Set 'Main Bedroom / Bedroom Humidifier' On Wait 30 minutes <--- total loop time is now 35 minutes Set 'Main Bedroom / Bedroom Humidifier' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Now right click on the program name and select 'run then' Here is a version using the Repeat x times construct you mentioned. This will give a fresh start again each day just after midnight. Again you can jump start the program by right clicking the program and selecting "run then" from the pulldown menu. If Time is 12:01 AM <---- any time of day will do Then Repeat 41 times <---- runs just short of 24 hours Set 'Outlet' On Wait 30 minutes Set 'Outlet' Off Wait 5 minutes Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Any better for you?

I always buy the Dimmable types now. They are typically more expensive but I know they have to put better power supplies in the bulbs and less likely to start flickering after few months of usage.

I think since you have no Else code running you can combine the conditions into one program and not be so complicated. The time frame can just act like a filter and not trigger any code. I am not sure what the problem you are having is exactly. I assume later, another scene takes over, so no Off code is required. If Control 'Kitchen - Motion-Dusk.Dawn' is switched On And From Sunset - 3 hours <---- can never trigger code because first line is only true when *it* is happening To Sunset (same day) <---- this will cause Else to run but since you have none no disabling is needed Then Set Scene 'Sunset' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Is this making any sense for you?

Watch the program icons to see if it stays solid green. If it does then the Then section is still running. You may have to enable this feature from a pulldown menu in the Admin Console. There is also a problem with the timing as given. After the 25 minutes of On you will have to wait another 35 minutes for the repeat Wait. The ISY Repeat construct has a syntax error built into it. Repeat ever 35 minutes really means the equivalent of "Repeat with a 35 minute Wait". With a 25 minute Wait inside the loop, the total time would be 60 minutes.

Yup http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/17365-v5-restoring-light-levels-after-other-uses/

OK you need to focus and attempt to resolve your problems with the help of many other knowledgeable users here or you can pack your stuff and run away from it. You spent a lot of money to get a good HA system and most of us believe you did, with Insteon and ISY. Yes Insteon has some problems and you have some older units that may really stink, in comparison to newer revisions, but you can't blame an accident of somebody mistakenly violating an appliance application on the power grid, your electrical distribution panel, your wiring, Insteon devices, or your ISY HA. Appliances are created to withstand being used 24x7 without danger if the warnings are adhered to. I hear your frustrations, and you aired them loudly, but it sounds like you were well on your way to resolving all your problems before your first post here. Figure out what you really want out of forum users, like yourself, and let's move forward. We have a lot of expertise here. Don't bite the hand that feeds you. In summary - education of the causing party has been done - the possibility of future hazards have been reduced with lower power bulbs. - ISY boot up routines can be used to alleviate some of the Insteon shortcoming (On after power drop) - Sectionalising your big loads can help with generator shock using existing Insteon switches. - replacing bad Insteon switches with newer units will help the ALL ON load shock - replacing large lighting loads with lower power as money and technology gets better will help down the road. At this point I am not sure if you have communication problems with your new devices or not. I don't use any All Off commands. I use a scene to turn all units off and it always works. Is there other items people can help you with or did I miss anything? Try to remember that text only mediums are not good conveyors of information without lots of detail and no sidetracking of subject matter. Misunderstandings are easy to create, and will sidetrack your ultimate goal, to use the brains of the experts and massive help available here.

Is this back to the future? Can you post your program so I can look at it?

Relax. Water heater "automatic operation being resumed" was the implied function by Stu. He knows his stuff. Shutting your water heater is not done at the thermostat but at the breaker or switch. If you had HA control on it that is exactly where it would "shut it off", not "turn the temperature up and down".

It's probably just the LEDs themselves. I have another one over my Kitchen sink that has begun to flicker occasionally. This $40 bulbs has been installed for about 6 months now and has slowly begun to get worse. At least now I can identify what is happening as this is in the centre of my gathering room and we thought we were blinking at the same time I need to get on a ladder soon, and replace this one. I think it was a Philips or some other big expensive name but where do I find a receipt for a light bulb? Who kept those things. Things are a changing,. Oh yeah. No Insteon involved, just a relay based MS. Real automation.

That makes sense. I assume the humidifier is mounted on the furnace and you don't want the humidifier running unless the heat is running. There may be logic to do this in the Venstar. Testing should tell.

With an ISY I don't want devices to remember their state after a power failure. I want them Off. ISY can look after restoring things to any state that I desire when the power returns. If things are real critical other monitoring devices can be used. eg. Dark sensor in MS can detect of light burnt out, Failure detector can detect if pump failed. Most of our devices are not very critical provided we observe the warnings on the connected devices. BTW: Did any discussion ever land on your OP complaint? I didn't see any while we destroyed your thread. Now back to my EasyBake Oven cooking.

I have 110 feet in one long string, and a Christmas tree that glows slightly when off also. I just ignore it as it is not visible during daylight anyway. For area illumination bulbs, like hall lights, this is more of a problem, while trying to sleep, or they flicker. This can ruin CFL ballasts also.

I have had trouble with this. The flashing multiple times with motion indicates a weak battery. After replacing the battery this can persist at times. On some I have had to do a factory reset and others it seemed to correct itself later. Try tapping the link button several times after battery changes and observe the ON and Off signals are sent alternately. This may cure the lingering status.

I see nothing wrong with your programs then Teken may have something as this just stated when you upgraded to v4.4.1. I am at v5.0.2 and not willing to step backward again so I can't test this or experience this properly. You could try v5.0.2 and gain much but lose the font scaling.

What devices are in your scene? Is your KPL D button in Toggle mode? Is the first line in your first program contain a typo that should read 'On'? Do you have your MS units with Off enabled?

The Chinese also use "CE" but when complained to claim that their C and E are further apart closer together even if the same font style is used. The fridge and appliance scenario is an interesting one and makes real sense. Thanks. Edit: Corrected actual spacing statement.

ETL is the usual Chinese equivalent of USULC or CSA and I believe being accepted in North America due to our approval companies dragging their feet or demanding too much money.

These problems were all resolved long before the OP post. The power blink problem doesn't exist. The halogen has been replaced with an LED. The 8000 Watts are segmented and low power replacements are being shopped for. The only problem is the replacement devices will not play with ISY994i nicely.

8000 Watts is not all on one Insteon switch. Doesn't that suggest staging is already a capability with existing hardware?. Doesn't Insteon have a ramp feature to avoid load surges? "If you build it, they will come."

Next step I would look for is, "does ISY think it is turned on?"

Read mwester's post again. That was not the method suggested.

Many manufacturers have done this to devices where they turn themselves on after a power failure. Insteon copied the X10 habits. This was an advertised feature for lamp devices so that the old mechanical switch on the wall could still be flipped off and then back on to cause the light to go on. The Hue bulbs, stupidly, do this too so that when I get a power blink due to wind in the middle of the night I wake up to about 300 W equiv. of white light in my gathering room. This is a response t the market refusing to use them because they need to get out the mobile device, run the app, and turn them on, as opposed to just flipping the switch on the wall on. ISY to the rescue! Knowing this problem, I have an initialisation program (Run at startup enabled) with a list of devices, that have this stupid feature built in, and turn them all off. I have no high power lights anymore. As a retired electrical utility worker I saw the handwriting on the wall years ago and have very few, if any, high powered bulbs anymore. I cannot afford to heat my home with electric lamps, let alone have to A/C the heat back out again, in the summer. You have spent all that money on Insteon devices but refused to spend it where it actually will save you money, replacing the energy pigs. Ironically, once you change to LED bulbs the savings you could possibly get with Insteon, disappears. Leaving a 9 watt bulb on 24x7 would probably never cost as much as the Insteon SwitchLinc to turn it off in our lifetimes. Invest in your future with lower bills. Mine peaks about $120 per month (dead of winter with shop building electric heat) while neighbours and family peak at $500 / month and big rises in cost have been announced again.

I would back up to basics using 443 all the way through and see if you can make it work and then start converting ports. I changed my port 443 to a higher, less common, port number and use it from remote to the ISY without any port forwarding, just IP conversion based on that port coming in remotely. I haven't found any location that refuses to transport that higher port number yet.

Port 443 and 55443 are secure ports and require https://