larryllix

Correct and correct. Some ISPs may not pass certain ports also due to hacking frequency. Makes no sense to me. Port numbers don't stop hacking but perhaps the standard protocols used for each port may encourage it.

Does the pressure switch have an extra contact? Note that there will need to be at least two empty terminals, not just one.

There is no easy solution for the pump if it is running on 240 vac. SynchroLincs only come for 120 vac. Changing the pump to 120 vac will depend on your wiring, breaker and the pressure contacts.

Once you have a SynchroLinc it should be simple to calibrate your current settings all from your Admin Console. You can do successive approximations of current settings by turning a faucet on and off, somewhere closer to your Admin Console access. Just keep reducing or increasing settings until they fail and then back them off for a safety margin. I set mine up on my dryer (120 vac gas) and I can detect even if the door is left open (6w bulb) and send a notification that the dryer door is open. Normally it just runs the back doorbell when the load is done if motion isn't detected in the laundry room within 5 minutes. They do work well. The current ratings sound a little light for 3/4 hp but who knows with the more efficient pumps these days?

Are you sure you are spelling the URL correctly? eg. .org or .com instead of .net? It seems the DDNS service is the problem if direct access via your router works OK.

Do you have uPnP turned on in your ISY? I believe that previously would grab the WAN IP and display it but it displayed both. See the linked thread where I posted a screen capture.

One gotcha that gets many people . Make sure you use https from external access. ISY does not support DDNS. Something has to send your WAN IP address to your DDNS service, on a regular basis, and that is usually your router or an app on a PC somewhere that knows your WAN IP address. I assume you have a router that supports DDNS and of course that has to be setup, in your router, as well as the port forwarding, telling the router what port you want to access it with (defaults to 443 for https) and what internal IP address on your LAN (the ISY address = 10.0.xx.xx or 192.168.xx.xx) and port (defaults to 443 in ISY) you want it to convert it too. For port forwarding, in my route,r I use a 5 digit port number and convert it to my ISY port 443 and it's LAN IP 192.168.0.xx. I never accessed my router via an IP address from NO-IP. They provide you with a URL like mynetgear.GMD99.com so you would access your ISY with something like https://mynetgear.GMD99.com:45678. I have a NetGear router with free DDNS service except that No-IP will spam you and when I really needed it they changed my URL name to my last name from my nickname. Being close to the equator, at that time, and living in Canada I was out of luck. Then after apparently not rescuing my account deletion every month by kissing the account each month, required somewhere about the 6 month mark, they just deleted my account. IOW: I will not rely on NO-IP for free DDNS again. The ISY could have a better way but is not supported by UDI. May be completion for another program. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/13900-use-of-sysextip-variable-in-notifications/?hl=extip BTW: Android phones do not seem to have a method of viewing IP address information in SMS or email headers. *SIGH*. I resolved this by using about $20 worth of Internet access on a ship by emailing my ISP and explaining my predicament. They supplied me with my current home IP address and I stopped using DDNS. My IP has never changed since I have a long rental time, something uses it each day refreshing the timer, and the router is UPS backed up. I believe the Internet Access in ISY is for external service access. Turn it off. Not related. I have never found information on this and not really sure what it does.

There are two IP addresses involved that ISY may show. The ISY is issued an internal (to your LAN) address, usually 192.168.x.xxx, by our router or is statically assigned by you. Your router is assigned and external (to your LAN) IP address by your ISP. How are you accessing your ISY remotely?

Have a look at this thread from post #36 up. This setup is tricky and not intuitive but it works really well.. http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/12824-how-to-program-an-insteon-motion-sensor/page-2 The level of brightness can be adjusted in a Insteon direct linked scene by adjusting the device instead of the scene in the scene pulldown list.. Scroll the other way.

Another word of caution is the 2441ZTH reports by exception to it's internal rules. ie. if the temp changes more than about 1.5 degrees F. regular updates are not sent. The humidity sensor is sent on a regular basis, depending on version, and whether connected to AC input or battery, form 1 minute to 5 minutes. This can act as a heartbeat. The reason I am telling you this is if ISY gets rebooted and no temperature change is incurred yet, the reading will be blank or unknown. I believe that unknown when used in my program translated to a 0 degrees and turned a heater on. More experimentation is required to establish that as gospel. A simple heartbeat checker based on the humidity would be in order with a timer as a backup safety for turning on a heater mistakenly. This would be no different than any wireless device that may be critical for human or equipment safety.

No. The external input doesn't get transmitted at all. Other people have successfully rewired an external probe in place of the internal sensor. If you want more than one temperature there are better ways. For just one 2441ZTH may be the cheapest.

"The 2 pole breaker" is actually two independent breakers inside, with only a mechanical linking between them. Each pole/circuit connects to opposite phases in your panel. The phase/leg connections are alternated in your panel so that two pole breakers will connect to both, giving a 240 vac, dual 120 vac circuit.

Only state variables will trigger programs when they change value. Integer types do not trigger programs but can be used for testable status in logic statements. ISY has an event based engine. You don't usually poll devices with software.

Connecting to the same circuit as the PLM would be a good thing to pass the signal where it is strongest. A phase coupler should only be on a double pole breaker circuit so that both phase connections on the phase coupler are protected. If the unit faults both phases need to be cleared. If independent breakers were used for the 240v only one breaker may open on a fault and one may stay alive. Not a good situation.

I also have a 1.5 hp unit and I found no ready-made solution under hundreds of dollars. Being an old controls guy I had a few mercury wetted relays I salvaged from some automated testboards, went and bought a pvc box, installed a receptacle in it and hung a plug out of a drilled hole. Now I can plug in any module I want and stick the plug into the bottom that runs the relay coil. I am hoping to post some photos of it but I can never figure out how to post photos on this forum.

If a contactor is used it will require some kind of enclosure and wiring. A simple MOV across the coil will usually be enough.

My first go 'round was the same using an X10 remote keyfob and a TW751? wireless receiver. It turned the dust collector on and then well, I had to unplug it as it never turned off again. Welded the contacts. After lots of research looking for the old heavy duty X10 modules and researching the dust collector switches linked to, I found those premaid units were only capable of handling a very small dust collector inder 1 hp, I hooked a fresh TW751 into a 60amp mercury wetted relay that I knew could handle the surge. First turn on worked well and then the off...bang!. The counterEMF from the contactor coil blew the second TW751 inside and it never worked again.. Third try I used another TW751, same configuration, but placed good 20Kj MOV across the rely coil. Works well now but the TW751 stops responding to the X10 remote when on sometimes. A walk across the shop to press the On/Off button is required occasionally.

Just to clarify an important difference in control vs status. Status will trigger an evaluation of the program If logic each time a status change happens. Control will trigger an evaluation of the program If logic each time a control signal happens. IOW: When you switch a light on, currently off, from a SwitchLink, a status change happens and a control signal happens. When you switch a light on, currently on, from a SwitchLink, no status change happens but a control signal happens.

Just as a matter of interest. I went into The Source (Canada's old Radio Shack chain) and had a look at the old Insteon On/Off module for heavy duty appliances. Yup 1800 watts max, except for one thing. That is for heaters almost exclusively resistive.... 480 watts incandescent load max. No motor rating period. Again. Breakers have overload surge ratings, contacts on switches and relays do not. This was always a problem for Engineers in the electrical distribution industry. Busbar always had overload ratings but the contacts on the breakers spec'ed an absolute limit.

Without a MS in place the other way is to have a manual on program hat disables the automatic program with the timeout. I still use an off timer in my manual override programs but set it for a few hours so lights do not get left on permanently and automatic methods are not disabled permanently. Program Manual_override If Control of switch is On Control of switch is NOT Off <--- puts mode manually back in auto via else Then Disable automagic program Set Light 100% Wait 2 hours Run (else) Manual_override program Else Set Light Off Enable automagic program Run (then/if) automagic program <----could set up lighting to original levels instead of Off line above. Stu has too many EXes! He needs a lot of motion sensors!

Here are two designed for the job options. Note that these are for light duty devices, which I believe you are using. For heavy duty dust collectors like 1.5 to 2 hp motors the price escalates into the hundreds of dollars. Note these devices have a run-on delay timer to keep the device running (stable) after the power tool shuts off. No wiring to do, no specs to research and much cheaper in the long run. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67020&cat=1,42401,72660 http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=63013&cat=1,42401,72660

No! The Insteon units mentioned are rated for only resistive loads and they clearly state that. You loads are motors and the Locked Rotor Amps rating is usually not disclosed on home appliances. Note the ApplianceLinc module was discontinued. Your motor loads require much heavier devices as the starting currents (and/or LRA) are probably in the range of 20-40 amperes. The constant running current is not the problem for a closing and opening contact. Breakers, fuses, and contactors are rated to take short term surges that a motor creates. Closing relay contacts used in these Insteon devices cannot handle this and will destroy themselves. Read the device specs, but.... It's your money.

No Insteon device is going to run your dust collector system. I have never heard of a dust collector under 1 hp. I have one with a 1.5hp motor and run it using an X10 rf receiver module that runs a 60A mercury wetted contactor. These units, when starting up, draw high currents in the 30-50 ampere range and Appliance module contacts will just vaporise. When shutting off a running motor the regeneration of the sinning motor will arc across the resistive load contacts and just weld them together. It may work once or twice if you are lucky. You need arc and spike suppression circuitry and fast break contacts rated for motor loads. This is why the commercial units are hundreds of dollars and more for 2hp rated units.

Just a layout error from guessing. It wasn't copied from my ISY. If you read and understand my first post with the three programs you will find you can adjust the scene so that your lights will not come on even with a scene linking the MS and lights directly. Here's the scenario. You walk in and turn the lightswitch on, locking it on. You walk through the motion sensor area and it triggers the light on at the same level of brightness. You don't even notice. You walk out of the room and the program that turns off the light isn't running because the manual override program has disabled it. The light stays on forever or until the override "lest you forget" timer times out You turn off the manual override and the light turns off. Now your MS program works again. You use the third program and set the level of the scene to 0 during the day. You walk into the MS area and the scene turns the light on to 0 brightness. Does it make a difference? The user doesn't see it.