larryllix

In a previous house I had a 30 Watt siren mounted in a cold air duct. When that thing went off you couldn't stay in the house. Nobody could run for the panel fast enough to shut it off. A horn would take some doing though. A big 12v adapter and an I/O Linc should do it. I have 60w 12v adapter for my LED strips that are fairly cheap. In a boathouse that would make your ears bleed.

Many of us disable the Off portion of the MS and never receive the Off signal. This would nullify the need for the 'control is Not Off' line and the else section. Notifying of no motion anymore is done on a timer inside the MS and this same function can be done and better controlled inside ISY programming. A few ways come to mind to only get one notification of motion. Your method looks good to accomplish this also. 1) Use a variable as a flag, set it upon motion, check it when further motion is sensed. If the flag is set then the notification is already sent. A timer program is needed that resets the flag after X time of your choosing. 2) Use a second program that disables the triggering program and then re-enables the triggering program after your selected time. eg: First program If control MS is switched On. AND time is from sunset to sunrise Then run (if) second program Else --- Second program If additional conditions Then disable first program notify you of motion wait x minutes enable first program Else --- Now some of the dangers of this is you are asleep and/or away and you get a notification. What do you do? You have no second opinion of a violation in the boathouse. The webcam could be that second opinion before manual action is taken. I have multiple MS units in different rooms so further movement can determine false or not. You will probably need an RF to Powerline bridge device to send you signal from the MS and that can be done with a LampLinc device. If you comply with that you can use it to turn on lights in the boathouse and act as a scare tactic to help get the intruder out. Flashing would be even better to create some confusion. Noise also helps.

The MS units and the Leak Sensors have different styles of reporting their health. I assume the Door Sensor is the same as the Leak Sensors. MS Units ------------ Have no heartbeat Send a low battery signal when a voltage threshold is crossed Report immediately You have to be monitoring the signal at the time to know. If you do not have a LowBatt node, in ISY, for your MS units they are not linked correctly. FACTORY RESET (always) and start over. Leak Sensors (and door sensors?) -------------------- Have an every 24 hour heartbeat - older units alternate sensing On and Off. Newer units just send On. Do not send a low battery signal - you assume "long time no hear" = lowbatt. You have to be monitoring every signal sent and use a timer to know if the next one is late.

I need to experiment with that one again. I tried that with one of my first units but it seemed to miss action right in front of it. I always have trouble with the one in my MBR as it sees me walk past in the hallway and triggers unnecessarily. Too bad that wasn't on the remote setting options.

As per LeeG above. IOW: ISY does not know the actual status of anything...only what the last thing it has been told. Some more recent heartbeats never send Off... just On = "I'm alive!" Some device can be queried forcing them to send their status. Otherwise ISY just remembers on the last signal it saw that changed the device's status. If the heartbeat is always an On signal, ISY thinks the status is always On. Think about this one. If the battery goes dead, you didn't expect it to send a signal telling anybody that, did you? I know MS units are supposed to but many are reporting they never do. I have had three MS batteries go dead without a peep, now.

Most of my Heath -Zenith motion sensors lights are on for every snow storm. Every brand I have ever had does this. I doubt they detect heat but rather iR spectrum light. The better units have two sensors and detect differential changes. The cheap ones just detect ambient light changes due to only having one sensor. The sensor may be composed of two sensors on some. The Insteon units seem fairly stable and do not false much, that I have seen. The X10 units will trigger with ambient lighting changes, car lights passing, etc.

Wouldn't swirling wind and/or snow set them off constantly. Weather sets all my other 120vac MS light units off constantly. This would be good to hear from others using Insteon MS units outside.

You have to watch your fonts and their text aspects when you post in this forum. Font attributes seem to initialise randomly. You can click edit, select the text, and then change the size or probably undo the subscript. I can't even make out what you posted on my screen.

Read LeeG's post above. You show them set to 9 minutes.

Use "devices" or "Insteon" dependingv on your f/w version.

Some programs posted did not have the shutoff.

Are you using += ?

Factrory reset them both and do a Restore on them both. It's always worth a try and it's really easy.

I thought it was niggardly using the SwitchLinc somewhere else.

I wouldn't bother doing scenes for that. Just set the levels you want in the programs.

Now take a model 6260 and label the 60 minute button "ON" and label the 10 minute button "Off". There you have DIHA. (Distributed Intelligence Home Automation). I have seen some of these units with more logarithmic scaled times. More like 10,30,60,120 minutes.

That's all that simple bathroom fan timers do. You press a button usually labelled 5,10,15,20 minutes and get that many minutes before it turns off.

A simple nonInsteon timer would have saved a few bucks unless a cyclic program to vent the bathroom on a weather dependent schedule is also wanted

Does that mean your lights came on alternately, A or B but never together?

Start a new thread. Different topic and more will find it and possibly join in.

If the fan is wired to the same switch you want to turn the fan off with you are basically out of luck. Once you tap the bottom of the SwitchLinc paddle the fan is turned off without Insteon or ISY programs or scenes. However, you could turn the fan back on and then time it off or use another signal to turn it off. For a double tap on the top (fast on) that could work. IF control fan is switched fast on THEN wait 10 minutes set fan off ELSE (optional) This way whether the fan is running or not the timer will be initiated and the fan should shut off. The danger is you could miss the double tap and there is no feedback to the success. In view of this do not get rid of your basic program with a very long timer like this (have both) or you may come home to your fan still running. IF control fan is switched on AND control fan is NOT switched off THEN wait 30 minutes set fan off ELSE set fan off You could also acknowledge by flashing the LED or beepig the SwitchLinc but I doubt you would hear it with a fan running. IF control fan is switched fast on THEN set fan SwitchLinc LED 0% set fan SwitchLinc LED 100% set fan SwitchLinc LED 25% <--- or whatever brightness you like wait 10 minutes set fan off ELSE (optional)

No. I am saying the flashing of the LED doesn't indicate anything, except you pressed that button, and is not a debugging tool. Scenes do not detect a device is operated from anywhere. They only detect signals from the devices that are controllers defined in that scene. Something has to initiate every scene. Random devices, not in a scene, operating a device, that is in that scene, do not activate that scene.

All my keypad buttons flash when I press them and they aren't linked to anything. The 2-3 flashes after any keypress is built in to the device and not related to scenes, communications or ISY programs.

Without having the syntax handy right now.... Just send the rest command to set the same variable to ISY setting it to -999 or 999. Setting the thermostat directly from Echo control would be suicide IMHO. That would be like putting your thermostat on the coffee table for every child and big kid to play with it. Good joke the rejected vacuum cleaner salesman setting your heat up to 40 degrees C just as he leaves your home. ISY can sort out the value it gets in the variable, apply scaling factors, check for reasonability, interpret the values for special command like Up/Down, and apply situational logic (time of day) to values to further check reasonability.

If the echo cannot do any conditional logic, can you have Echo send a 999 and -999 for Up and Down, respectively? ISY could sort this out easily by filtering out ridiculous values and making exceptions like the values below to run a program that looks at the current setpoints or temperature, adds/subtracts half or one whole degree and changes that setpoint.