larryllix

The SwitchLinc is directly connected internally to the light controller in the same SwitchLinc. Scene adjustments only apply to that link in the SwitchLinc dimmer and local paddle controls will not be affected. You can adjust the local controls to a dimmed semi-on position so that the local paddle will activate the SwitchLinc to that level and ramp speed. Your scene in the ISY should detect the paddle signal and send out the scene signal to override the local levels. The change in brightness and ramp speed should be hardly noticeable if the local levels are set low enough. BTW: If you are not using the 'Else' section you do not need the "To" in the 'If' time range. It's only job is to run the 'Else'.

It is most likely a synchronous, shaded pole motor, similar to the one in most bathroom vents and old phonograph motors. You can dim them all you want and they will stay the same speed as long as they can keep up. The harmonics from the dimmer may damage the motor and/or the low average voltage from the dimmer may make the current increase to the point of damaging the dimmer.

If you use two wire only devices the load has to be incandescent. These devices use the load as the return (neutral) wire for their small amount of running power. It's not enough to light an incandescent bulb but It usually causes CFLs and LEDs to flicker when turned off. LEDs and CFL bulbs chop up the AC waveform and would cause a two wire SwitchLinc to malfunction. The 2477D is NOT a two wire device, which means it has to have a neutral connected to it. This circumvents these problems. An incandescent bulb is one with a filament in it that works by heating the filament to white hot. Halogen lamp bulbs are also incandescent. This problem exists with most motion sensors also. If you have a controller string of lights (more than one) you can use CFL or LEDs usually by using just one incandescent mixed in. The lack of neutral problem is typically created by electricians wiring the circuits to the light's octagon box first. Octagon boxes have a lot more volume inside them and can accommodate more wires (by code and actual practice) for all the connections involved with a continuing cable run. To accommodate the switch for the light they run a 14/2 cable to the switchbox location to go over to the switch and back with the switched power. There will be no neutral at the switchbox, in this scenario. Receptacles always have to have a neutral on one side.

All your devices require a neutral. The neutral wire is the white wire that electricity, passing through a load, returns to the electrical panel. Do you have an older house with knob and tube wiring? If so you may not have ground wires in most places but neutral is a basic requirement for electricity to flow.

I would have just programmed the SwitchLinc to work with the X10 commands until I got more Insteon devices to support the mesh-network they thrive on so well.

Did you do a factory reset on the SwitchLinc before linking to the ISY? I don't know how they set these devices but mine have almost all done really strange things if I didn't factory reset every new device. - remove the device completely from ISY - factory reset the SwitchLinc. Most units do this by pulling the tab out for about 10-15 seconds and then pushing it in holding it in until it stops buzzing. This usually takes a tool to poke it deep enough andnotpause at the operating / normal position.. Release and it should turn the light on. - relink it to the ISY using the address of the unit. xx.xx.xx -if the device shows up in the ISY devicetreetry to operate the controls on it's page. Let us know.

Are you trying to communicate with this switch using X10 commands or Insteon commands?

Many of us have just the basic model and no Access Points or Phase Bridges/couplers and our systems work fine even with our phones and other compute inputs. I do not know how the Pro would assist in any of those endeavours. It does provides more program and device counts. I have never needed that after a year of usage. The Insteon system has evolved over the years to dual-band devices that can span the electrical system in a house by using RF communications and powerline and repeating signals in the modules themselves. This makes these signal only AP / Coupler type devices mostly redundant. I would get your basic items and add AP and Couplers as the need arises, if it ever does.

I already have a box full of X10 modules. Insteon was many steps better than X10. From the talk on forums about Z-Wave it sounds no better than X10.

If Insteon was dead where would we go? After reading about other systems we could do a lot worse than a few junky quality units and lack of variety in modules. ISY contributes a lot to the quality of Insteon systems. I started with a Hub, sent it back as soon as I fired it up and realised how limited it was.

Better to have some control on the quality of many products in the Insteon line like thermostats and PLMs that have bad reputations. If UDI bought Insteon, much of the future market may not develop, as many are afraid of single-sourced products and won't touch them. I have already run into negative comments on cocoontech about Insteon being single-sourced. I understand the fear factor there for professional installers. Now if UDI could get rights to spec Insteon products with a superior spec it could work except that I believe X10 already failed at that that and people just shop by price anyway.

Another Insteon bad capacitor shorts out maybe? Ohh no!... not the SwitchLincs too! We need forensics on this one!

Nahh. It's just old hat for some. Upward and onward!

Make sure the breaker is off and test with a known good tester before working on the circuit. Take a snapshot of the wiring connections before disconnecting in case of snags. All the best. Bob would be proud.

After the tab is pulled out for about ten seconds if you push the tab in and hold it in until the buzzing stops it will factory reset the device. Then you need to relink it with the address for it and found on the metal plate on it's front or on the paper where you wrote it down. After that is done doing the restore should bring it back to full status.

Nice. So you found the SwitchLinc that controls it. That makes it somewhat easier than ladder work or invisible module units..

Don't worry. Restore won't hurt a functioning device and if links are missing in it may make it work again. If the breaker blew the device may have burned out too. We have to find that out.

When running the Admin Console can you identify the device in the device tree list? If you can write down the address of the device on paper. It should be a number format like 28.15.4B and be found top middle under the name. Right click on the device in the list and select "Restore". This may take a moment. If you see some action without errors reported then try the button at the bottom of the device's page turn it on and off.

Have you found the breaker for that circuit to shut it off?

Leslie Is there a switch that controls that outside light fixture?

Thanks guys! I am getting to that same point and looking at IP cameras. I see pass-through devices to add PoE to regular Ethernet circuits. I wonder if it is that simple. It sounds like they want to get the voltage high so that cable resistance won't be such a factor for a camera that could absorb 10-15 watts. At a 12vdc line the 1-1.5 amperes required would get lost in those cat5-6 cables and pinprick connectors.

I have a MS and 244iZTH 'stat units in my shop which is coated with aluminum foil backed insulation and a metal roof. I can barely get a local radio station on the radio there unless it is close to the window. I just plugged in a spare On/Off module to receive the wireless MS and echo it down the branch circuit leg feeding the shop building from my main panel. I have a passive phase coupler installed quite close to the main panel on a different branch leg (with the ISY plugged in within inches of wire from it). I have never had a problem with communications from either of those devices using that method. The outbuilding shop's panel is about 60 feet of wire from the main panel. Now my spare dual-band On/Off module runs my WebControl weather station also and I can now power cycle it via Insteon. With the date and time being sent to ISY as a watchdog ISY can automatically power-cycle the WebControl board and wireless modem if it hangs up..

Get a beer, sit back, and pat yourself on the back for being so smart. It was a tough day. Did you ever have one of the lives where nothing seemed to go right?

Elaborating on LeeG's ideas... Create a state variable "$sSequence" and use the event driven sequencing engine in ISY. Program 1 -------------- If whatever trigger Then ...do some stuff Run (if) Program 1a Else --- Program 1a --------------- If condition to insure Program 1 tasks are complete Then Set $sSequence = 2 Else -- Program 2 -------------- If $sSequence = 2 Then do some stuff Wait to be sure tasks are done Set $sSequence = 3 Else -- Program 3 --------------- If $sSequence = 3 Then do some stuff iWait or other complete insurance. Set $sSequence = 1 Else --

I do this for my mud room lights as no dimming or other On control logic is needed and Insteon motion sensors can have their Off signal disabled. Lights Off is totally ISY controlled. The response delay is undetectable and that is a desirable bonus. I really hate the MS to lamp delay that happens in the dark lasting 1,2,3 or sometimes 5 or 6 seconds going through the ISY program logic and Insteon signal delays. I can trigger the MS and walk completely around the bed and almost get in before the lamp goes on some nights. Perhaps a slow ramp time and let ISY interfere by overriding with Fast On and ramped Off?