larryllix

It is the audience that makes the difference. Home owners will become familiar with their own switches after some time but now guests can be told, "Push the red button on, please." Nice!

Get some white PVC tape in the electrical dept. at The Borg ($0.99 Home Depot) and tape the white Decora switch On. It can't be noticed more than a 0.5m (US=foot) away. I have used this on my MS units to make blind spots. Lamp fixtures require a switch ahead of them in order to change the bulb safely. You will be standing in a wet shower changing a live bulb. (Will it explode the first time power is applied? Internally shorted? Maybe it really is a 12 volt bulb for a trailer and it won't like 120vac.) The Marrette (wire nut) is fine as long as any connections remain accessible, which they would be with a blank off plate or dummy switch in front of it. Get the tape.

Some items to look for. - have you verified the response in the ISY device tree status page? most users set the options for the MS to not send Off commands and therefore the device page will never show an Off. - are you using "Switches On' instead of "Status is On" in your programs? If you have disabled MS "Off" reporting, it's "Status" will never change. - does the LED on the MS flash when seeing motion?

These thermostats do have reputations for being sensitive to switching the relays and/or solenoids in HVAC equipment. This sounds the thermostat firmware "blows up" and then reboots itself. A voltmeter (or better, a scope) to measure the power supply R-Bk while this is happening may show you if power remains across the thermostat. if it does you have some suppression circuitry to experiment with or send the thing back. The Insteon thermostats have a reputation for this behaviour from read other users.

The contacts in the dozen or so thermostats I have wired all have contacts from the Red wire (R, Rh, Rc) to the outputs (W,W1,W2,G,G1.G2.Y.Y1,Y2) switching the ungrounded 24vac (Live R). Switching grounded wires would be a non-standard practice and would also violate some North American electrical safety codes. The common, almost always labelled C is always the return to the 24vac transformer common and is the return to the source. The common is typically grounded at the source in the furnace to avoid stray induction and leakage voltages. Wikipedia lists the usual standards on a nice chart that match anything I have witnessed. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermostat Here is a very nice website with descriptions, diagrams and some animations showing power flow in a thermostat system with A/C and heating contactors. http://www.how-to-wire-it.com/wire-a-thermostat.html

Make a diagram of each end of the cable connections and the terminal label at each end should be approximately the same. You have a 4 to 5 wire adapter in each end that makes double function usage of a single wire, just to complicate things but the end terminals should have the same colour wires. Black is usually common power = ground, but is stolen for thermostats to get a fan control wire where common is not needed for battery carryover thermostats that can steal power from the other wires to charge a carryover battery or capacitor. That is most likely why your black wire has a Y label on it and it was never removed hen the 4 to 5 wire adapter was installed. Reviewing your photo again I see the black and red are probably wired correctly but the thermostat has some odd labelling on the terminals. The top terminal appears to have "COM" on it and would be black. The second terminal has "RH" (Red for heat) but also "..HVAC Return" which seems self contradictory to it's own terminal nomenclature. Perhaps others with the 2441TH thermostat can help more. By your symptoms I would check the furnace end of the black wire closely. I believe if not connected your thermostat would display this behaviour. Do you have an AC voltmeter?

I can't be sure as I can't see the terminal designations but it looks like you have the red and black wires reversed. Also the black wire has a "Y" label on it which indicates "Yellow" for cooling. This needs to be verified at your furnace end and wiring corrected or the Y taken off or wiring corrected. You must also have the other half of the 4 to 5 wire adapter at the furnace end connected properly.

That looks like a defect to me. I have two 2441ZTH units (different versions) that send humidity updates every 30 seconds on AC and about 5 minutes on batteries. I would attempting to return the unit under warranty, if possible. The updates are too frequent and erratic timing.

This surprises me that the US government doesn't take on Google the way they broke up IBM and other companies years ago. They are out of control. (but we should be getting some back in stock next week )

You will be assimilated!

Perhaps UDI could partner wit Honeywell with their Lyric thermostat. From the sketchy details on both brands the Lyric looks like it may be a step above the Nest with it's geofencing support.

Double tap on top = Fast On = no ramp Single tap on top = On with local ramping speed Hold top for longer than a tap = Brighten Hold botton for longer than a tap = Dim Single tap on bottom = Off with local ramping speed Double tap on bottom = Fast Off = no ramp Of course the local connected light on the unit being operated goes to the setting without program intervention but... if you set the local ramp to a few seconds (ie. 2.0s ) the program can usually beat it with it's new level and ramp speed and you will never notice the starting ramp from the light switch before the program scene takes over. The Fast On and Fast Off being the exceptions as they defeat any ramping delays.

Users tell me Google recently released the Nest SDK and interface to the public.

In my gathering room I have six dimmable sets of lights each with their own SwitchLinc and one LampLinc module. I have set up Scenes that I control from one switch closest to the entrance / exit spot for the room. I make use of the six available commands from the one SwitchLinc. - On = turns on my GathRm.Reading scene and then toggles between that and GathRm.TV scene each additional tap - Fast On = turns on my GathRm.AllOn scene - Brighten = turns on my GathRm.Bright scene - Dim = turns on my GathRm.Movie scene - Off = turns on my GathRm.Off scene - Fast Off = not used - only affects the lights connected directly to the SwitchLinc I found it much easier to have six preset levels for the room mood than to attempt variable dimming crosslinking. Attempting to synchronise the dimming of two devices may be hard and they may not level-sync well using programs. I control most of my lighting needs from one SwitchLinc and an Insteon KeyPad, that duplicates all commands with the same style of taps, but can control individual areas with it's own switch temporarily overriding any scene preset. This should be easier to write the SwitchLinc status checking into each command handling program for your desired logic. The scene levels are easy to modify from the Admin Console for tweaking your mood levels. Do you know how to send each of the six commands from a SwitchLinc dimmer? Here is an example of a scene based on another condition. $cREADING_MODE can be changed to "Status is On" of your other switch in the code. GathRm Mode.TV If ( Control 'Gathering Room / PotLights over Chairs' is switched On Or Control 'Gathering Room / GathRm KeyPad.A' is switched On ) And $GathRm_Mode is $cREADING_MODE Then $GathRm_Mode = $cTV_MODE $GathRm_Mode Init To $GathRm_Mode Set Scene 'Gathering Room / TV Watching' On .... more code Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Toggle Reading and TV Watching modes

One SynchroLinc was suggested but as Stusviews stated, you already have a battery backed up pump and this would allow you to play safely. Here is scheme I would use. - Get one SynchroLinc and one ApplianceLinc module - Plug one pump into each. - Set the pump with the SynchroLinc float to initiate at a higher water level so that it should never be activated unless the ApplianceLinc pump fails. - Write programs to detect if the SynchroLinc pump ever kicks in, then the ApplianceLinc pump has failed and notify help. - To exercise the SynchroLinc pump you could block the ApplianceLinc pump occasionally, (make it fail) via ISY schedules, and not only exercise the SynchroLinc pump but also verify, via ISY programs, that it still functions by detecting it's current levels. The ApplianceLinc modules have a fairly heavy contact rating on them. 1HP / 1800 Watts and should switch a sump pump quite easily. https://www.aartech.ca/2635-222-insteon-appliance-module.html

It is how you have the devices connected together that is important. There are several definitions and methods to create a scene. Insteon devices can talk directly to each other using a direct connect scene without any HA controller involved. This cuts ISY out of the picture somewhat but can be worked around with more advanced techniques. ISY has it's own scenes where devices are preset to various levels of brightness and/or ramping speed. The scene can then be treated like one Insteon device in the ISY, and when activated will control every device defined by their presets you have set up and can control in ISY.

I have been thinking of converting to all C temps as I have a mix now but for heating purposes don't you lose the temperature resolution using half degrees C instead of half degrees F? eg: My home thermostat system is using C and is settable to a half degree. At certain times of the day, I find 22.5° C too warm, but 22.0° C too cold. Using F scales I can get 9/5 of the settable C° resolution.

Got more MSes from aartech.ca while they are on sale over the New Years time, so I am eliminating more X10 MS units from my system. I have been attempting to improve the plain battery low sensor for the Insteon MS units with this program for each unit to be monitored. The Wait time needs to tuned for each application keeping in mind if the units sees day/night reliably, and expected motion gaps considering away times. Since these "extra" methods of detecting a dead battery and/or lack of MS function are additional to the usual LowBatt signal they are not required but should act as a back up reminder to missed or forgotten notifications. MS.LowBatt.LLand If Control 'Lower Landing / Motion.LLanding / LowBatt.LLanding' is switched On And Control 'Lower Landing / Motion.LLanding / LowBatt.LLanding' is not switched Off And Control 'Lower Landing / Motion.LLanding' is not switched On And Control 'Lower Landing / Motion.LLanding / Dark.LLanding' is not switched On And Control 'Lower Landing / Motion.LLanding / Dark.LLanding' is not switched Off Then Wait 5 minutes $MS_Battery_Status = $cLOWER_LANDING Else Wait 150 hours Run Program 'MS.LowBatt.LLand' (Else Path) $cLower_Landing is one of many constant variables (Integer) used to identify each room in passed parameters $MS_Battery_Status is a state variable and triggers a program like this for notifications and reset. MS Battery Low If $MS_Battery_Status is not 0 Then Wait 5 seconds Send Notification to 'Text Larry' content 'MS Not Sending' Wait 5 minutes $MS_Battery_Status = 0 Run Program 'MS Battery Low' (Else Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') The single notification message looks like this ALERT! - MS not sending. ${sys.date} @${sys.time24} In room ${var.2.14}. 10=RecRm 12=AftBr 13=EveBr 14=Libr 16=Util 19=LLand 20=GathRm 21=MBR 29=MudRm 30=Shop

Agreed! Just turn both pumps on and set one float switch level higher than the other so that one always gets used and the other only gets used if the first fails. Rotate them every few years for even wear and verification of life or just check them every few months and exercise the mechanism by hand. If Insteon fails you could have a problem you were trying to avoid. Adding technology always makes it less reliable. Adding to what Teken advised, get a plug-in SynchroLinc monitor for the higher level float unit and if it ever turns on your ISY will know the first pump failed. https://www.aartech.ca/2423a5-smarthome-insteon-synchro-linc.html Editted: for level logic.

If you have a milli-volt control from a thermocouple you will only have a few hundred milli-volts. These units do not recommend having more than one contact in series with the solenoid gas valve and the only switch. The voltage drop can damage your gas valve and you will usually have to replace your burner mechanism. My unit could have a switch and a thermostat in series if I cleaned the contacts once per year. When oxidised the valve would not turn on. If your PLM sends an all On command and you are not home you may cause some danger in your home. Since two series controllers are not recommended it rules out having a high-limit device to shut the fireplace down with overheating when you are not home. You may want to seek some professional advice from the manufacturer on this one. Get names and document for insurance purposes.

This is excellent! but... this would be much better in the Tasker Forum thread created for easier finding. http://forum.universal-devices.com/forum/100-tasker/

Always good to hear!

Currency? Shipping included?

If you have all Insteon devices you could create an ISY scene with all devices in it. HS could probably activate that scene directly.

OK Got it! I can't believe I have read this over so many times and attempted to apply it without success. I think the problem was the "Adjust Scene" pulldown scene list was too long and I never scrolled it up that far to even see these devices at the top. The syntax of the whole thing really is NOT very intuitive, either. I suppose the way to think of this is you are adjusting the levels in the SLD link from the MS. UDI couldn't name it after the SLD because it could contain links from many devices and be ambiguous. The list would have to contain all the combinations (see LeeG's post above) such as "MD-SLD","KPL-SLD", "ISY-SLD", etc..... I hate to say it but I have been messing around with this method for almost a year on and off. I have read some posts attempting to explain this before but it just never clicked. Even tonight I read your post over and over for many hours and began wondering if this was some kind of joke. Either you were or I had to be crazy or maybe both of us. Thank you so much (also LeeG) for your time and persistent efforts. Tis was an extremely bumpy road for me. I owe you a few beers for this one!!!