larryllix

Simplest test I know of is to read voltage across the cap (unplugged device). If holding a charge, probably good cap. Short out the capacitor first to discharge any residual charge voltage and protect your meter. Using an ohms scale place leads across the cap. Watch readings for charge up to infinity ohms. Reverse leads and repeat. If no charge up indication, or constant resistance reading, unsolder cap (at least one end) and try again. If still no indications of charging try another ohms scale. If all scales are exhausted on the meter, replace the cap. Another method is to put meter on AC voltage and read voltage live with device plugged in. Careful! Not recommended if you have no experience. Depending on electronic meter, should be very little voltage.If more than 10% voltage cap is likely bad. If older mechanical type meter may read about half voltage and test is useless.

I have one that already failed. The PSU caps failure was just a guess on my part but it co-coincides and looks like the PLM problems so I suspect SmartHome quality policies were used on most of their products. When the SynchroLinc was dropped, I doubt it was because Smarthome stopped manufacturing them. It was most likely because SmartHome dropped the Chinese manufacturer, after getting so many bad products that gave SH a bad reputation. Cheapest bidder and the uneducated capitalist concept.

SynchroLincs were produced by Insteon with bad capacitors in the power supply, as the PLMs were and do not last for very long. The only things you could try are to get new capacitors and replace them or toss it out. Insteon doesn't produce them anymore in their new product world.

Thanks.. but I don't know of any other brand of bulbs called "Warm Glow" and apparently those Philips units aren't available anymore either. I needed at least 60W equiv. 40W and so yellow is just too dim for this application. Amazon.ca shows the medium base for $44 each. That means they are holding the advertising space but don;t really have any. I ordered mine from HD as they were the only ones that actually had them. Now they sit on my "returns table" waiting for the store to re-open. LOL

Yeah, these WarmGlow bulbs are the clear LED filament looking types. The GE LEDs are the crown style mantle type..but not any colour change.

This was the three pack of 60W candelabra bulbs with medium base. I couldn't believe these were the bulbs many have recommended!! For colour the tested two bulbs were beside 3500K GE LED bulbs so the may have looked much deeper yellow. For usable level and dimmer capabilities, the other five GE LED bulbs drop out about 9-10% on that SwitchLinc Dimmer. I use them at 12% to guarantee they light from Off. The two Warm Glow bulbs wouldn't light at all from cold or even dimmed down from full on. I just couldn't believe the response I was getting from these bulbs. Very disappointing. More experimenting once our current heavy lockdown is over. HD will only hand things out the door, so no browsing products right now.

I finally bought some of those in the candelabra/postlight style. As soon as our lockdown is over they will be going back to HD. First, the colour of them was way too orange! I was hoping (and I read reports) they would brighten to about 3000K at least but in reality they only brighten to about 2200-2500K. They are labeled "bright white" on the package. Second the bulbs faded out and extinguished about 30% on an Insteon SwitchLinc dimmer. I had a hard time trying to dim them on the SwitchLinc Dimmer from the paddle. They kept going completely off before my hand could react. I could have maybe devised an ISY program to circumvent that, if I wanted to. I am not impressed at all for this purchase and they are going back to the store. I thought there previously was some Warm Glow bulbs that were daylight colur, and dimmed into the 2200K range, but IIRC they were over $30 per bulb, for the candelabra shape, and I was waiting for the price to drop (years now). I need at least 6 for my bathroom. The WarmGlow would be for long baths to avoid the higher K colours. These bulbs may be good for a bedroom if you never wanted to read from them.

Don't destroy your original code to enter the new code. You can enter it into a new version and disable the original and enable the new one when ready. Or you can copy the original program (right click on the name) to a new one (or two) and then edit both new ones to look like what you want, then disable the old program, keeping it until you are sure you can dump it. You make save some entering if done that way. The two programs could be combined into one program but it can get very complex for logic and will cause a lot of stress to understand the logic, if it should break.

That would give me about 10 minutes more of unwanted darkness in the room. Ideally, I wanted instant updating for the analogue lighting levels in order to compensate. My thoughts are I would be able to compensate for a 5 minute cloud darkness in the room, or a rest of the day cloud/overcast. In real life, I don't want my CAO wireless Tags to update more than 15-30 minutes to conserve battery life. A delay for my system would just add a delay to the 15-30 minutes already incurred. The difference is I am using a formula to calculate how much additional lighting is required to the outside levels coming into the windows, not just On or Off.

Installed your ISY-Inventory NS. Very nice! Had some trouble not reloading the A/C and tries re/re. Caused myself some ecobee NS problems where the PIN became unsynced and had to fix that one. All is good now! Thanx lots!

ISY needs to go back to the old scene modification. MSes never need to be modified for lighting changes, anyway. When the battery writes are blocked, the cache fills up with a dangerous waiting Insteon traffic jam, ready to pounce at the first opening, that will bog your Insteon down to a 2-3 minute response to events.

I use the average of the square root of two CAO Wireless Tags lux output to control my gathering room lights on automatic. They each update only every 30 minutes so the lighting level corrections only average about every 15 minutes (time clock drifts). This lighting uses 4 Insteon controlled ceiling bulbs and 9 WiFi bulbs around the perimeter.

You must turn off the battery writes option. ISY turns it back on upon rebooting. UDI has just reported it has fixed this in the next release.

This may not work properly for the new MS II devices. The scene modification syntax has changed somewhat with newer ISY firmware versons.

MS = motion sensor. Bedroms require earlier times and run off MSes. Bathrooms require different times to accommodate the midde of the night run.

I prefer the independent program method myself. Each room requires a different time. Bedtimes are set at a constant time. I find sunset and sunrise is not how we want the lighting levels changed anyway. Summer to winter they should not vary.

The bathroom lighting works well at fixed times during the night and mornings. If you want bright lights just tap the SwitchLinc Dimmer up again for 100% lights. Otherwise you get about 12% (dimmest I can get with these bulbs) No MS involved and all manual switchLinc operated.

I use independent programs for each room and independent times for each program. Some based on sunset and some based on exact times.

You will likely flood your Insteon cache and lose some actions with so many packed together scene changes, doing that. Rewriting the EPROMS inside the Insteon devices takes time to do. Insert Wait 10-20 seconds between each line of scene change code or beak it into multiple programs that operate independently.

No. Only triggers within the same program or when other programs call this program as a subroutine. If ....Something is switched On ....AND .....From 6 AM ....To 10 PM Then .....only do something between 6AM-10PM if enabled when something is switched on Else ....only do something between 10PM-6AM if enabled when something is switched on

From....to is a complex condition statement. From 6 AM To 10 PM Triggers Then at 6 AM Triggers Else at 10 PM .... and also acts as a filter for other program triggers and is true between 6 AM and 10 PM and false between 10 PM and 6 AM whether the program is enabled or not. (subroutine mode)

I had one sales promotion on C4 and that was enough for me. I don't have $10-$15K to spend on HA and don't want to make a $400 service call every time I want the timing changed on my HRV system fan.

Ditto. 100% Insteon, for proprietary protocol home automation devices. I also have many other systems that are not closed architecture as Insteon is, and Zwave has been. I also use many WiFi devices, some cloud devices, and CAO Tags, whatever their RF protocol is. Another hooray for ISY994 that made it NOT locked into one, or another system. ISY994 made it possible to slide over from one system to another and mix systems.

Maybe but the point was if Insteon does not even promote their product or even make an appearance in a store anywhere, they will eventually disappear from bankruptcy. In the old days they were in stores and also people looking for HA would find X10 and Insteon. Today they will find Zwave and never even know Insteon exists, no matter how good their technology is. I had never heard of inovelli before so I would never own one of their products. I see Zwave devices everywhere and I may own some one day. See the association? How many MCR Control HA devices will you buy this year or next year? I hear they are top of the line.

Never heard of innovelli switches.