larryllix

Out of curiosity, you didn't mention the time of last update, if it changed at all. How old is your ISY994? You seem like a very proficient troubleshooter so I would contact UDI support. "Something smells in Denmark", there.

The iPads and iPhones are top notch when it comes to compact size, entertainment (A/V) and user ease of usage but for business, or programming type applications, Windows is tops. I have tried a few tablets and other "toys" for these applications but none have come close to the full browsers Windows offers. Linux is trying to copy Microsoft's GUI, but that brings back slow computers, and introduces many bugs and virus problems. When problems arise on the many tablets in our house (They have a few different brands) and I ask what the URL is, I get the response, "The page says XXXXX at the top". I guess they aren't supposed to know what a URL is or what URL will be launched when you click a link?? My guess is the HTML5/CSS3/js gurus have decided to just leave touchpads behind, with the later definitions.

The file for non-PLM is udi_oadr_5.3.2.zip, while the PLM version is Insteon_5.3.2.zip. Maybe your file browser cannot show an underscore or it gets chopped in the downloading somewhere. Apple brainstorm ?

I see two different naming conventions now, both ending in 5.3.2.zip. Hover your cursor over the link for the file name at the bottom of the browser on mouse based O/Ses.

A smaller SD card may not help. The problem is usually exceeding the allowable FAT size. FAT tables have always created the problem where one piece of software uses the total size of the SD card but another only knows how to access the FAT tables size. RPis like to partition the SD card to suit it's needs at the install. IIRC There is a re-partition command in the basic 'sudo raspbi-config' command.

You may have run into a formatting limit. https://raspberryinsider.com/what-the-largest-micro-sd-card-supported-the-by-raspberry-pi/

Yuk! I would power down your ISY, then pull the SD card out and plug it back in again (wiping the connections somewhat)and then power back up. I don't know how old your ISY is but oxidization is not a connections friend.

Just another shot in the dark. Uninstall java again, delete all the java files you can find manually, power cycle your computer, and then try again. Possibly the files were already gone/de-registered and the java error report was wrong?

Sounds like a complete re-install of java might do it. I always lose all my java junk when that happens. Sounds like a java screw-up not getting permissions everybody is so fond of these days.

Windows provides a java control panel app in the Win Control Panel. That is where you clear all the java icons, apps, etc..

Disconnect the wires and take it somewhere closer to your PLM, or another dual band Insteon device at the other end of the house, restore it, from there, and use a jumper to short out the connection from input to ground and/or live +5vdc. I am not sure which polarity to use off-hand but you can try both and watch the admin console response.

Use the admin console to "restore" the IO/Linc If that doesn't do it, unplug your GDO and disconnect the mechanism (pull the cord) so you can trigger the sensor and send an open and close signal to your ISY manually by lifting the garage door a few inches. My guess is your GDO is generating so much noise your Insteon signal is being clobbered. GDOs are notorious for killing Insteon signals. Try unscrewing the bulb(s) and if any of that works, get some FilterLincs and plug them in. Right Chamberlain?

Simplest test I know of is to read voltage across the cap (unplugged device). If holding a charge, probably good cap. Short out the capacitor first to discharge any residual charge voltage and protect your meter. Using an ohms scale place leads across the cap. Watch readings for charge up to infinity ohms. Reverse leads and repeat. If no charge up indication, or constant resistance reading, unsolder cap (at least one end) and try again. If still no indications of charging try another ohms scale. If all scales are exhausted on the meter, replace the cap. Another method is to put meter on AC voltage and read voltage live with device plugged in. Careful! Not recommended if you have no experience. Depending on electronic meter, should be very little voltage.If more than 10% voltage cap is likely bad. If older mechanical type meter may read about half voltage and test is useless.

I have one that already failed. The PSU caps failure was just a guess on my part but it co-coincides and looks like the PLM problems so I suspect SmartHome quality policies were used on most of their products. When the SynchroLinc was dropped, I doubt it was because Smarthome stopped manufacturing them. It was most likely because SmartHome dropped the Chinese manufacturer, after getting so many bad products that gave SH a bad reputation. Cheapest bidder and the uneducated capitalist concept.

SynchroLincs were produced by Insteon with bad capacitors in the power supply, as the PLMs were and do not last for very long. The only things you could try are to get new capacitors and replace them or toss it out. Insteon doesn't produce them anymore in their new product world.

Thanks.. but I don't know of any other brand of bulbs called "Warm Glow" and apparently those Philips units aren't available anymore either. I needed at least 60W equiv. 40W and so yellow is just too dim for this application. Amazon.ca shows the medium base for $44 each. That means they are holding the advertising space but don;t really have any. I ordered mine from HD as they were the only ones that actually had them. Now they sit on my "returns table" waiting for the store to re-open. LOL

Yeah, these WarmGlow bulbs are the clear LED filament looking types. The GE LEDs are the crown style mantle type..but not any colour change.

This was the three pack of 60W candelabra bulbs with medium base. I couldn't believe these were the bulbs many have recommended!! For colour the tested two bulbs were beside 3500K GE LED bulbs so the may have looked much deeper yellow. For usable level and dimmer capabilities, the other five GE LED bulbs drop out about 9-10% on that SwitchLinc Dimmer. I use them at 12% to guarantee they light from Off. The two Warm Glow bulbs wouldn't light at all from cold or even dimmed down from full on. I just couldn't believe the response I was getting from these bulbs. Very disappointing. More experimenting once our current heavy lockdown is over. HD will only hand things out the door, so no browsing products right now.

I finally bought some of those in the candelabra/postlight style. As soon as our lockdown is over they will be going back to HD. First, the colour of them was way too orange! I was hoping (and I read reports) they would brighten to about 3000K at least but in reality they only brighten to about 2200-2500K. They are labeled "bright white" on the package. Second the bulbs faded out and extinguished about 30% on an Insteon SwitchLinc dimmer. I had a hard time trying to dim them on the SwitchLinc Dimmer from the paddle. They kept going completely off before my hand could react. I could have maybe devised an ISY program to circumvent that, if I wanted to. I am not impressed at all for this purchase and they are going back to the store. I thought there previously was some Warm Glow bulbs that were daylight colur, and dimmed into the 2200K range, but IIRC they were over $30 per bulb, for the candelabra shape, and I was waiting for the price to drop (years now). I need at least 6 for my bathroom. The WarmGlow would be for long baths to avoid the higher K colours. These bulbs may be good for a bedroom if you never wanted to read from them.

Don't destroy your original code to enter the new code. You can enter it into a new version and disable the original and enable the new one when ready. Or you can copy the original program (right click on the name) to a new one (or two) and then edit both new ones to look like what you want, then disable the old program, keeping it until you are sure you can dump it. You make save some entering if done that way. The two programs could be combined into one program but it can get very complex for logic and will cause a lot of stress to understand the logic, if it should break.

That would give me about 10 minutes more of unwanted darkness in the room. Ideally, I wanted instant updating for the analogue lighting levels in order to compensate. My thoughts are I would be able to compensate for a 5 minute cloud darkness in the room, or a rest of the day cloud/overcast. In real life, I don't want my CAO wireless Tags to update more than 15-30 minutes to conserve battery life. A delay for my system would just add a delay to the 15-30 minutes already incurred. The difference is I am using a formula to calculate how much additional lighting is required to the outside levels coming into the windows, not just On or Off.

Installed your ISY-Inventory NS. Very nice! Had some trouble not reloading the A/C and tries re/re. Caused myself some ecobee NS problems where the PIN became unsynced and had to fix that one. All is good now! Thanx lots!

ISY needs to go back to the old scene modification. MSes never need to be modified for lighting changes, anyway. When the battery writes are blocked, the cache fills up with a dangerous waiting Insteon traffic jam, ready to pounce at the first opening, that will bog your Insteon down to a 2-3 minute response to events.

I use the average of the square root of two CAO Wireless Tags lux output to control my gathering room lights on automatic. They each update only every 30 minutes so the lighting level corrections only average about every 15 minutes (time clock drifts). This lighting uses 4 Insteon controlled ceiling bulbs and 9 WiFi bulbs around the perimeter.

You must turn off the battery writes option. ISY turns it back on upon rebooting. UDI has just reported it has fixed this in the next release.