larryllix

A bit confused here. You could break your functions into smaller programs. It makes it more modular and easy to understand. Sensing the same element you are controlling (jn the same program or system) is a bad idea in a trigger based language. You don't need the tests but it will set the Stat to Home each time the lock entry is used by these people. To avoid this variables or other flag methods to keep track of would be necessary and the feedback loop may be recreated again. If Keypad person is 1 or Keypad person is 2 Then Disarm system, Turn on light etc.. Else ---- If system Disarmed Then Set Thermostat Home On Else ---

ISY should not be blocked or email, SMS, ISY Portal, PolyGlot, NRs may not work. Your router does not allow any traffic from the Internet to your LAN unless you port forward and make holes in the router's natural firewall. Things inside your Lan, like your browser and ISY initiate requests to go outside and get answers and your router allows those answers to come back naturally. It's all about the direction of who asked the question and firewalls allow the answer back through.

Look what you have done to cause this. If Elk Area 'House' 'Armed State' is Armed Then Set Elk Area 'House' Disarm Why care if the system was armed before? Just disarm it, if a 2 is registered. No circular negative feedback. This may not be a good idea as it will compromise the security level of your system. This will allow any length of combination to be detected from a KPL

Nice! My Alexa Show gives temps every few hours on the screen. It's sound booms even more for voice and the temperatures never get up to 70 here so there must be something wrong with it. F/C

My S-I-L started out with GH units and got some Echoes later for some app reason? Her usage is not much for remote control,, but mostly for music. She also complains that her Echo 3s do not have the power. I think the GH speakers must produce about 5-10 Watts of sound while the Echoes, about 0.25 - 0.5 Watt. They get distorted and tinny at higher volumes while the GH units can really rock, not room shaking, but quite loud, and still stay clear. How are you finding your Echo, compared to your GH speakers?

That was the thread most features and updates were requested and UDI would respond fairly regularly. OTOH we never had the @XXXXXX attention getter back then either.

The PLM is a dual band device receiving RF signals also. If you plug in a device with a magnetic power supply (coils and transformers) and/or blast very strong Insteon signals into it, in the same receptacle, you may saturate the inputs and make it blind to other devices or even the device sharing the receptacle. Try a medium length extension cord maybe.

There is a "Feature Request" thread for that usually.

I use several variables. Vacations and Not Occupied are different needs. After years of experimenting, Vacation is now based on my ecobee thermostat schedule. I just clone the vacation schedule of the stat. Basically Vacation is mostly for mechanical things and how I get contacted, while Occupied is about security against entry. Entry is only allowed from one angle/room and causes a beeping timer warning. Armed Mode Toggle - [ID 00AB][Parent 003E][Not Enabled] If $sHouse.armed is $cFALSE And Program 'Armed Mode Toggle' is False Then Set 'Mudroom / MudRm Beeper' On Wait 30 seconds Set 'Mudroom / MudRm Beeper' Off $sHouse.armed Init To $cTRUE $sHouse.armed = $cTRUE $Armed.off.window = $cFALSE Else Set 'Mudroom / MudRm Beeper' Off $sHouse.armed Init To $cFALSE $sHouse.armed = $cFALSE $Armed.off.window = $cFALSE Do not enable! May oscillate from negatve feedback. Since I have a lot of Insteon interference at that end (KPL) of the house.... (I have two garage door openers close to that circuit, as well as two 3.6kW inverters just underneath the KPL, that cause intermittent response times or occasional retrying needed many times)….. I have just recently added vocal commands for my security system, to turn it on and off. (Here comes the freaking out again! ) Alexa...turn on security/alarm system To turn it off a two step process is needed. Alexa...turn off alarm/security system This opens a time window where you have x seconds to issue another Alexa command. If heard outside the "Circle of trust" .....Meet the Fockers , you may have to change the device name again, same as any other numeric combination.

Insteon protocol relies on the AC signal to make the protocol work. Sent using Tapatalk

For each key I use a program to install a value in a variable that keeps track of keypresses, shifting the value left by one decimal place each time. Key.A - [ID 005B][Parent 00AC] If 'Mudroom / MudRm Potlights / MudRm KeyPad.A' is switched On Then $sKey.sequence *= 10 $sKey.sequence += 1 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Key.B - [ID 00A7][Parent 00AC] If 'Mudroom / MudRm Potlights / MudRm KeyPad.B' is switched On Then $sKey.sequence *= 10 $sKey.sequence += 2 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') ...and so forth, for each key involved. Note a numeric value is assigned to each key (labelled A,B,C,D). The variable $sKey.sequence must be a State variable (denoted by the de facto usage of the 's') Then I use a program like this to detect the concatenation of keypresses in a four digit code. Less digit length could be used if desired. Note this program also provides timeout functions to reset the sequence should a winner be found or a long delay is encountered. Also note that the variable $ARM.COMBO is an Integer variable used as a constant and contains the passcode like '4321' representing keypress sequence 'D,C,B,A' Arm Keypad Combo - [ID 00AA][Parent 00AC] If $sKey.sequence is $cARM.COMBO Then Run Program 'Armed Mode Toggle' (If) Wait 2 seconds $sKey.sequence = 0 Else Wait 3 seconds $sKey.sequence = 0 If a winner sequence is detected the program Armed Mode Toggle is called, and if the system is disarmed, which beeps a 'buzzLinc' for 45 second allowing exit time and warning. I also use this same system to reset leak detection systems etc. with other codes on the same keypad. The sequence is given in the text message for each condition along with warnings to check basement, under dishwasher, etc.

Extra measures need to be taken to compensate for cheap sensors. Some thinking and ISY logic can do that. I have had false alarms with "proper" security system also. Not as frequently as a single element Insteon sensor though.

Make a program and call it Pause in the ISY Portal. In the program do whatever you want. Alexa...turn on Pause On runs then, Off runs Else

I have done the same thing as the OP wants to do. I use a KPL keypad for a combination system to turn the alarm system on and off, as well as notifying me about motion, water leaks, and a few other unwanted home disasters. If somebody did a smash and grab I have insurance. If I get confronted by a home invasion, the police are not going to help me for at a least 15-20 minutes. I am on my own. If you want protection against theft by the neighbourhood teenager get some authentic looking stickers by doors and window and some phoney cameras with blinking lights. If you want protection against a seasoned thief, don't waste your money on a false sense of security. You aren't going to keep a determined and seasoned thief out. Get better insurance. It's about feeling safe and that is what they sell. There are no guarantees. Some here are very passionate about their beliefs, and insist "everybody must be just like me", and yet when the tables were turned, ignored the screaming from others who exhibited the same behaviour, anyway. Insteon sensors and systems are fine for security, not a very good choice but can still work much better than the nothing you will have without it. Special routines must be designed to circumvent MSes false signalling and causing a ruckus in your neighbourhood or the police. Here they will fine you and eventually not even respond after X false alarms. The best advice I have heard from many "Security specialists" was ….You will not keep them out, but you can attempt to limit the length time they spend in your home. Nice to come home to a spray painted walls full of obscenities, and a water falls coming down your staircase. We came home to a disrupted home and signs of a teenager relaxing on our bed, eating candy from the freezer while he shopped for the best jewelry to take. We couldn't live in that house and sold it after a year of never relaxing away again. Any alarm system would have prevented that but not stopped them from entering. It's about the length of time. ...and here is the scenario to consider. While you are on your cruise for 21 days in the Caribbean, and your cell phone goes off with a text message that motion was detected in your home...what are you going to do? Maybe a cheap Insteon MS saw a car headlights flashing across it and false triggered? Make a long distance call for many roaming dollars to the police? Things to consider.

Save has flashed that message "Deleting 1 programs" since ISY V3. Apparently it is a side effect to do with the way the messages are displayed from java and does no harm. Nothing is being deleted.

I just got two Echo 3s and a 8" Show. The sound is terrible (for voice clarity) compared to the Echo 1&2s, and they are much larger too. I do find the Echo 3s hear better though. The Echo 1&2s are smaller and clearer for voice but not so good for music. My 3-4 GH minis are the best for playing music.

The Echoes have terrible sound compared to the GH speakers. One more point for asbril!! I didn't ignore them at first but II have only so many years left and can't spend most of it fixing google things. Look south but I can still see you over the wall!

I have been getting and complaining about this for a few years since ISY Portal entangled GH. It doesn't seem to affect my operation but I ignore my GH devices now, anyway. Google would never allow other calendars to be integrated.

The google security update trap! I had to start a new google account after about a year of refusing. AFAICT somewhere down the line google warned you "XY^ZQWET#4r" was attempting to link to your account and you replied you didn't recognise that activity. I could never find a way to re-approve the connection and google support always responded I had to contact my provider. They never heard of ISY or UDI.

One variable could be fine if you use multiple values for it, multiple pseudoMSes, converted from different values of the same variable, and multiple Alexa routines with the same vocal announcement. AFAIK it is the Alexa routine trigger that takes up to 30 seconds, not the ISY Portal, nor ISY..

You would have to design a resistive voltage divider, with a possible Zener across the I/OLinc ipout to protect against spiking but probably the best and safest method would be an appropriate rating coil of a real and use the isolated contact into the I/OLinc input with it's 5Vdc aux output supply.

Read the thread! Click on the title "larryllix replied to a topic"

From what I can tell over the years, Google likes to concoct new security techniques and fears/policies. Then they try to make the user feel like it was their fault their password does not work suddenly. When you ask to reinstate a new password they nail the user with all kinds of new personal information each time. Now they need your home phone number, cell phone number, your home address and postal/zip code, as well as your "disposable email address" just for better customer service, of course. LOL One of the techniques is get you to confirm via email that it was actually you that reconnected to their service. When and if you don't within a certain length of time, google now deems you a hacker that needs to be cut-off and you account will never work again with that particular service/device/account. After having google refuse my connection to ISY Portal for almost a year, I finally gave up and started a completely new shared (wife and I) google account, registered it with the ISY Portal and things resumed again. Originally GH was miles ahead of Alexa in personality. Alexa was more accurate with HA but both have passed each other back and forth in every field many times over. Thank Gawd for competition though, or we might be still stumbling with old vocal technology. Market competition!... It's the Canadian democratic way.

If that is the case it opens a whole new world of possibilities. Just get an Insteon I/OLinc and protect the 5Vdc input with a few clamping diodes and a resistor, from the raw DC voltage you want to detect. Be careful of grounding combinations. IIRC the I/OLinc's input is isolated from the power supply line.

Some people have hacked the Insteon thermostats to indicate external temperature and other analogue parameters. The CAO Tags may be a good and hackable source but I have not heard anybody digging through any of those yet. Some have external sensors that may be an easy input for use. The CAI WC8 board has 8? analogue inputs with better resolution and has a Rest interface to support ISY with direct deposits into variables and easy PLC type language. You would need a power supply and a small box to house it, Ethernet cable. I use one for wind speed and interior/exterior temperatures. Humidity sensors are available and the temp sensors are accurate and cheap ($0.99) on eBay etc..