atmarosi

Did some searching but couldn't find anything of the sort - so here we are... Got a Digital Logger's DIN Relay 4, trying to leverage Network Resources to trigger REST API call on said DIN Relay 4. Using Curl on test box on the same network I'm able to have a relay fire, but can't figure out how to chop up the curl command into something for Network Resources to consume...Any ideas? Working curl: curl --digest -u admin:admin -X PUT -H "X-CSRF: x" --data "value=true" "http://10.10.10.10/restapi/relay/outlets/2/state/" Thanks in advanced!

Seems like the light control is ON/OFF; don't see a way to set it to a level. You can set levels to fan (and direction for that matter). I use my Bond with two fans with down lights and have two separate 8 button KPLs for each room fan. I have buttons setup for each fan speed and to switch directions; and to turn the light on/off via scenes. Can't say I've seen a way to control light level from ISY -> BOND. Can obviously do it on the BOND app so sounds like there is a way just not exposed in the API maybe or at least not available in the Node Server

Discovery traffic likely won’t pass the firewall between the two zones without an ALLOW - zones are there to segregate traffic easily. ICMP (ping) isn’t necessarily treated the same as TCP traffic (discovery maybe if it’s doing any two way traffic to inquire)

It’s not clear if you left the EISY in the same Zone or Subnet as the actual devices. If the traffic has to cross zones you will need explicit ALLOWs for said port and protocol.

2. Assuming your IP will never change (i.e. static IP; typically consumer/home ISP connections are DHCP meaning they will change) yes. In the event it changes you would need to update that IP address; this is where dynamic dns services come into play (some are free some aren’t - YMMV). This would allow you to input a FQDN (fully qualified domain name - i.e. mycustomnamehere.dyndns.com) and then you would have something running to keep that up to date with the latest and greatest IP address as it changes. Some firewalls have the ability to keep them up to date as well so you can off load that task to your firewall if you don’t want to keep some piece of software running for that task. And YES - point it at the internal IP address for the RACHIO device on your network. 3. I have mine setup for both; if i had to guess it really only needs TCP but never really dug into it. If I recall correctly I would get all my zones showing up as well and only see other data if I queried it; but it’s a while since I played with it….

Use the externally accessible FQDN or IP. As you will be using the externally accessible info, you will in fact need to port forward; which ever port selected should point at the internal IP:Port of the Rachio device on your network.

same issue here, just ended up waiting a long while (read ate dinner, cleaned up, and sat on couch) and then re-installed All of the sudden it connected and shows the nodes as well.

I run most if not all without a load. Just cap it off.

We do this with all of our ceiling fans in bedrooms. Have a 8 KPLs on the wall where a switch was, give it power and leave load disconnected to the keypad. Renders the ON/OFF unavailable as it has nothing to control - however allows you still to use the buttons just the same. In regards to ‘delay’ - there is a delay, but it’s within a second or two max and I have a wired Bond Bridge Pro. There are times where the light and/or fan will get out of sync with the Bond but haven’t seen that being an issue with the latest firmware released last week/earlier this week. Still watching it. Worse case you can always correct it in the Bond App.

The bond will only dump to the discovery from the PG NS after a fresh boot. Did you try rebooting the bond and then running a discover from the NS?

Make sure the two switches are controllers?

Yea LED + dimming is quite the science experiment. They all are setup differently so they all work differently. i haven’t found an exact perfectly working LED that’s dimmable with Insteon…still have some spare illegal bulbs!

You can really use any compatible RF based remote device for the fan. Minka fans are what I have it connected to. they have a search feature to look up FCC codes of devices to see if it’s compatible: https://bondhome.io/supported-devices/

Bond is the way to go unfortunately - it's solid and just works. Sometimes it'll lose track of the light state (but I thin it's because my kids are impatient) but you can always fix via the app. Get the Pro - it's ridiculously priced; but PoE, and stability is alllll there. It's got a local API that the Bond PolyGlot NS works with locally so you can keep it off the internets and on the local network easily.

I had luck with my LiftMaster 8500 running the IO Linc COM + NO wires to the motor side of the wiring harness, not the button side of the red/white lines. To rule out the IO Linc, jump the RED + WHITE momentarily (1-2 secs) and see if it does anything - make sure to insulate yourself as there is voltage on there. If it does NOTHING; then the IO Linc will not be able to control it via this method (directly wired). If that's the case I would look into using IFTTT with MyQ? Seen others metion this device on Reddit in regards to not so smart garage door openers - and they have a great FAQ to show if their thing will work with your opener: Meross Smart Garage Door Opener Remote Control - MSG100 FAQ:

If it’s actually doing the high voltage then you can get a relay and control said high voltage with it through the low voltage side on the relay.

Get a IO Linc - this will act as a controllable relay as an insteon node. You can then set it to be latching in the settings, connect the NO and COMM wires to the control behind the rocker switch on the awning and it should connect the two points activating the switch on your behalf.

I usually throw breaker. Then un do all the wire nuts and separate the romex lines. Then turn power back on and see where the real hot is. Either a non-contact stick or multi meter is your friend to find the input of the hot. then you can wire it back up more that you know which is bring in the power. Continuity tester on the multi meter can help identify where the lines are going.

Three ways via Insteon are really simpler than a traditional three way - have one Insteon switch actually control the load. Then just power up the other Insteon switch and link it to the other switch. If you want to you can also create a scene and use that instead of the linking process on the switch itself. If you want to use the KPL just power it up - I'm guessing the red wire was the traveler so you won't use that - and assuming you have a real hot and neutral where you have the KPL shown you can create the scene, put both switches in it and control the load on the paddle switch.

Try telnetting to that DDNS and port to see if you are in fact getting to the rachio - but from the outside...

Assuming it has a REST API you can make Network Resources on the ISY itself for each on/off. Call the ON URL for it to close the contact and apply power across that relay. Then after your desired time - call the OFF URL for it to open the contact - removing power. Another option I've seen that is fully featured and in the same vein: Ethernet Relay Boards: Ethernet Relay Board and modules from Denkovi A E LTD

Just look at the label on the switch?

Hard to say without looking at it. Sometimes they just make it a switch leg with just the hot coming to the switch…sometimes they bring it all to the switch.

Micro module and FanLinc requires Neutral. you will need more wires to complete - but the rest would work….

I would reset it and re-link/join to the PLM