Whitehambone

@vspete, I forgot to mention that I found much better HTTPS performance offloading SSL to PC running Stunnle. It really shortens the delay to the ISY.

Upgraded without issues and Z-Wave devices are reporting as normal.

It seemed I had some similar troubles when I updated my Fortigate from 6.2.X to 6.4.X with UDP/TCP bombardment. That why I was wonder what FortiOS you were running. I had to do some creative networking to resolve the problem, but I never figured what caused my issues. Most people don't run FortiGate's at home. But I still get similar things as you are experiencing in my logs and I also use MobiLinc. I uninstalled MobiLinc on my AppleWatch and will see what happens.

What FortiOS are you running? Have you upgraded the Fortigate's firmware recently? I have experienced many of these same issues.

@someguy Do you have a Polisy, run Polyglot or MobiLinc? There are some alternative alert methods.

I have experienced this as well with LED Christmas Lights and LampLinc. To make them work, I plugged in a small incandescent bulb, like a 4 watt night light. Either use a T-adapter or plug it into the end of the string of lights. It kind of defeats the energy savings purpose of the LED lights, but it made them work pretty well. Even dimming worked for me with this method.

I have found better performance offloading the SSL encryption to Stunnel on a PC. If you find slow connections to the ISY using HTTPS, consider this option.

Not everyone uses or wants to use the product as intended. So I would like the auto or switch reset to be a user-programmable option. Why not give us both possibilities? For instance, I used one of the older leak sensors for detecting when a sump pump could not keep up with the rain load. I mounted the sensor on a piece of wood and soldered remote sensing wires to the sensor's circuit board (twin-lead wire). I suspended the wire about 1/2 inch above the floor. If the sump pump could not keep up, the leak sensor would start another pump and send an alert. When the water fell under the remote contacts, the leak sensor would reset automatically, and after a programmed time, the pump would turn off. I could remotely watch the situation on a camera and take additional action if necessary. It worked great, but it would not work with the new style sensor. Of course, I used this setup until I could correctly repair the problem, which required a lot of digging. Not fun.

If you find the thread, please post a link here. I have not heard of this issue and would like to know more about it.

Open a support ticket, I am sure they can get it straighten out for you.

@EKauffman Just trying to help, are you going to the right place on the web page? When you sign into your account, instead of going to My Profile, you have to go to My Products and then Modules.

I upgraded from 5.2.0 to 5.3.0 with Z-wave devices and had no problems! Congrats @Michel Kohanim, @Chris Jahn & all at UDI! I bought my ISY at the beginning of 2014, and it has been rock solid and improved by UDI continuously. I still have my first backup of 4.0.5. I don't know how they continue to develop the ISY at its price point, but I am glad they do. This constant improvement is one of the big reasons I bought my Polisy; I knew I had to support this group.

Has anyone compared Phillips Warm Glow to Cree's Soft White? Years ago I tried about a dozen different brands and had the best luck with Cree. This was back when Cree's LED bulb was rubber coated glass with a metal heat sink base. Since then it appears they went to the solid plastic body style. Back then, I found Cree's dimmed the best and had a natural incandescent color tone when dimming. They did not dim well when a fixture had multiple bulbs or if you had several fixtures, like Top Hats. So do the Phillips Warm Glows have that same problem? I even used a Aeotec Bypass on the one fixture and it still flickers or goes out (starts to flash) at certain dim levels with a 2-wire Insteon Dimmer Switch. Maybe it is time I upgraded my LED's, I switched the house over pretty early. Perhaps the technology is better now. https://aeotec.com/z-wave-low-voltage-dimmer/

When I saw the note in the 5.1.0 release about needing the 500 Series Z-Wave board, I quickly purchased one. Of course, that means I miss the discount, but that is ok. The upgrade was as smooth as silk. I first followed the instruction and upgraded the Z-Wave board, and once I confirmed that everything was working, I upgraded to 5.2.0. I find that doing a right-click on the My Programs folder and Copy Folder to Clipboard can be very useful if you run into programs with issues (in Yellow). I just paste into Notepad and save it with the normal backup. A big Thanks to all at Universal Devices for the continued improvements! I am excited to see what my Polisy Pro will do in the future.

@DaveYHZ See if this post by @hart2hart helps.

I am running Mac OS 10.15.6 and Java 8 261 without any problems. However I have seen this reported before in another topic. If you read back through the post, he or she had one Mac that worked after the update and one that did not. Also they found this:

Ain't that the truth! I can't tell you how many hours I have spent looking at PLC programs I wrote years ago trying to figure out what I did or why. Even with device names, comments and notes it can be a challenge.

Nice set up! I see a few leaves on the ground, I assume you live in a climate with all 4 seasons. Does that system require winterizing? I never tried to configure a Scene they way your describing. I noticed there is an Adjust Scene to Ignore in the Program Action, but I never used it. Perhaps that is a way of disabling the Scene after it triggers quickly. Then maybe use two Scenes, one enabled and the other set to ignore? Just thinking out loud (or in writing).

@KPuza Did you try admin / admin? See section below in the first post in this topic. Does that describe your situation? If not, I seen some other post about a bad SD card.

I did the Java update, have Catalina 10.15, and no problems. Did you try deleting installed applications and applets and then re-download the launcher?

If you switch the driver (or power supply) will you lose your 12 volts at the switch? Curious why you want to switch the driver?

I was poking around the ISY backup file one day and noticed the user names in the 0.UCF file. You need to extract the backup zip file. Then again extract the uuid.xx.xx.xx.xx.xx.xx.zip file with 7-zip. You will find the 0.UCF file in the CONF folder. Most of it is not legible content. But I did see the user names in plain text within this file. Yes, I was very board one day. I assume the file extension of 0.UCF stand for User Config File. But I have not found a was to get a list of users.

I just picked a device not doing anything, tried it, and it worked. I unplugged the 'Christmas Tree" (On/Off Outdoor Module) then Queried the device. You just need a program to query the device at some given interval. I sent a message with the Push Node Server. Push Test - [ID 0024][Parent 0001] If 'Christmas Tree' Responding is False Then Set 'Nodes / Push / Garage' Message Don't forget! Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Has anything changed? Have you checked the Error Log or regular Log? When you say "even manually", does that mean you are right clicking the program and selecting Run Then?

I don't think there is a v5 specific manual. Take a look at the Cook Book for a bunch of good information. "ON" is the current device status. I believe the view of "Click to Specify" is the default status. Once you click the arrow, you can specify the level in the drop down and the device will go to that level. You will see that just above in the Status section. The "ON LEVEL" is the level that you want the device when you turn in on by pushing the physical switch or the ON button below. The Ramp Rate is how quickly it will get to the On-Level. Double tap on switch goes to full brightness fast. Insteon device can beep, although my mature ears usually can hear it. You can have several switches beep when some event happens. I believe the numbers are like the volume. Just ignore the Backlight for devices like LampLinc. It is nice to be able to turn down the brightness on dimmer switches at night. Especially in the event it is positioned so it shines in your face at night.