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oberkc

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Everything posted by oberkc

  1. Correct, this would only respond to a program. Not necessarily. Like garyfunk, I have lots of keypads for this purpose. But for you, simply create a program to react to "control off" from your BAS 3way1 switch. The program would simply turn off the BASEMENT LIGHTS scene. Alternatively, you could create the program to respond to FASTOFF. Doing so would give one the option to only turn off section B (OFF) or all three sections (FAST OFF). The downside is that this might not be sufficiently intuitive for those in your house technologically challenged.
  2. Devices can be part of many scenes, but controller only of one. The only reason that I can think that the ISY would complain is that you are trying to add them as a controller. If you have not yet tried, attempt to add them to the new BASEMENT LIGHTS scene as a responder.
  3. First, I would go to the user manual. Then to the various wiki articles. Both are here: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index ... =Main_Page After that, this forum is very good.
  4. I don't believe it would matter. In most installations, one cannot directly control a fanlinc (it is up in the ceiling, in the fan canopy). To activate a fanlinc from a program, and have the linked button show correct status, choose the scene in mobilinc or in a program.
  5. And if you wanted to test for LeeGs theory, you could temporarily connect directly the load and line wires in the switch box (bypassing the switch). If the lights come on bright, then you have isolated your root cause to the switch (itself, pending voltage test) or LeeG's propose incompatibility.
  6. The universal devices wiki is a good place to start for most things. Try: http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:Variable_Details In addition, there is a complete section on variable in this forum under "common ISY topics". Make sure you have a relatively new version of the ISY software. Variable have only been around a couple of years. If your ISY is older than that, and you have not updated your software, you may not have variable capability.
  7. No rules that I am aware of, other than those you impose upon yourself. I suspect, however, that there is a total character limit, and may be some off-limit characters, but such limits will become self-evident should you ever violate them (I don't know what they are, off-hand). I have developed my own naming convention: "RRR DD Description", where RRR is the three-character designation for room, the DD is a two-character designation for device type.
  8. Another thought... Does the fan/light have a built-in dimmer or remote control?
  9. You have done the things I can think of. Pending result of fixture voltage test, I am thinking bad switchlinc. When you measure voltage, I suggest doing so at output of switchlinc (across red and white wire) and doing so, if possible, under load. It is concieveable to me that the switchlinc is putting out 120VAC, but the voltage at the fixture is lower due to some wiring issue. It would be a shame to return a good device, only to later find out it is a wiring problem.
  10. Just beware that there is likely a reason why "scene" status has no meaning with insteon. Possibly, it is because no two people can agree on what it means for a scene to be on. If you have a scene that includes two devices, who's "on" level is 30% and 70% (more complicated still, a scene with different "on" levels for each controller), is the scene ON or OFF if the levels are 31% and 71%? What about 29% and 69%? I bring this up only to point out that scene status can be a more complicated concept than first imagined. One needs to think through their own definition of scene status to make sure any variable used accurately reflects that definition.
  11. I agree. For showers, a temperature of (even as low as) 110F could work. One has to balance that against other needs for hot water, such as dish washing and sanitation. I am not sure what the accepted temperature for these purposes is, but I suspect it is 140+. I choose to use shower temperatures as my driving requirement.
  12. Are we talking about a fanlinc? What device actually powers the light?
  13. It sure sounds as if you have not missed anything. My initial reaction was "on" levels set to something other than 100%, but I guess you checked that. Other thoughts/questions: a) does the light come on at apparent same level regardless of which device sent the control command? what does ISY admin panel show as level? Is it 100% c) have you tried another light bulb? d) voltage at fixture (same question as Brian H)? e) have you tried a fast-on at the new device? Any difference? f) factory reset of new device? g) faulty device?
  14. Possible problems: a) when you control via mobilinc, are you choosing to control the device-in-question directly, or choosing the scene you created with keypad button as controller? For example, when you wish to control the fan via mobilinc, do you select the device (fanlinc) or scene (includes kpl button and fanlinc node)? (hint: correct answer is scene.) when you control a device directly, and wish the KPL to reflect status, make sure the device is defined as CONTROLLER in the scene that includes the KPL and device. It sounds as if you have set that device as RESPONDER only.
  15. One thing that may also help with the water heater cycling during shower is to turn the water temperature DOWN. Doing so might allow a higher ratio (thus quantity) of heated water.
  16. No. "restore device" the ISY takes the records that the ISY believe should be in each device and recreates them. Factory reset will purge a device of all records, making it "factory" fresh. The only way to perform a factory reset is via the method in the manual for each device. Unless you have some compelling reason to want to save records or programs, I would delete each device from the ISY and perform a factory reset of each. Once reset, add them back to the ISY.
  17. There is no such thing as a scene status. If you could identify a representative device from each scene, you may be able to try something like: If Status of representative device from scene A is off And status of representative device from scene B is off And control button B is switched on Then Turn on scene A Else...nothing You will not be able to use any wait statements, nore anything in the else path. I am a little like garyfunk in being unclear what you are trying to do.
  18. I loose track of which versions have what capability, but I recall that some earlier versions (at least) lack the ability to control a primary (load-controlling) button via secondary ON THE SAME KEYPAD. In other words, button B cannot be set as controller to button A as responder. Perhaps you are running into this limitation? For such cases, a program can bridge the gap.
  19. Based on advice given to me when I was going through my communication problems, I installed a dedicated circuit, just for the PLM (I have since included a access point and keypad on that circuit, as well. The acccess point is very near the breaker panel). Given the importance of communication with the PLM, I felt the effort to be worth it. I assume you have tried moving the PLM to other circuits, to see if that solves your problem. Like you, I would very much like having a tool which could somehow quantify the communication environment, compare it over time, and as I add new gadgets and appliances. One of the conclusions that I have reached is that communication problems don't always have a single cause. In your case, your problems MAY be a combination of washing machine AND something else or multiple something elses. I took the approach that ANY time I saw a single instance where unplugging something helped (even if not always), I filtered it. Period. Then, if problems persisted, I continued searching until I found the next device that, when unplugged, insteon improved. I then filtered that device. Eventually, mine worked and has continued to work. I currently have filters on a hot-water tank (on-demand), two (of nine) TVs, audio system, and all UPS/surge suppressors. I think I have a half-dozen in total. A couple hundred dollars worth of filters was worth it for me. It has been several years since I have even worried about communication problems, despite the continue addition of new cell phone chargers, tablets, power supplies, LED and CFL light bulbs, and computers.
  20. I think I would first try a "restore PLM" first.
  21. I expect that this program will set the "cold on third floor" variable, if the month variables are within range and temperature is between 50 and 64, inclusive. At midnight, it will execute the "else" path every time, regardless of other conditions. Of coure, the wait period will hold any real action off until 1201.
  22. My first suspicion is a failure of something in your house that would flood the powerlines with noise. Possibly a PLM failure? I have no special troubleshooting tricks...trial and error. Though, the ISY does, I recall, have a diagnostic check of the PLM.
  23. Thanks, but I have plenty, and have offered even to swap it out. Like PalChgo, she has a lamp attached and likes the dimming feature. It did not occur to her, however, that plugging in a vacuum or hair dryer or clock radio might be a problem. Now she knows. I always tell her how lucky she is to have a brother like me.
  24. Not a comprehensive one, at least.
  25. You forgot to mention whether you have advised all those living with you and guests about the limitations of that outlet and that you intend to remove the dimmer switch when you sell the house. My sisters house has an outlet controlled by a dimmer. It was this way when she bought it. I assume that it was installed by someone like you (and me)...someone who understood electrical systems and to not plug vacuum cleaners into such an outlet. Unfortunately, they did not remove it when they sold the house and now my sister must live with the additioinal risk, being unaware that this risk was there (until I told her).
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