oberkc

You have done the things I can think of. Pending result of fixture voltage test, I am thinking bad switchlinc. When you measure voltage, I suggest doing so at output of switchlinc (across red and white wire) and doing so, if possible, under load. It is concieveable to me that the switchlinc is putting out 120VAC, but the voltage at the fixture is lower due to some wiring issue. It would be a shame to return a good device, only to later find out it is a wiring problem.

Just beware that there is likely a reason why "scene" status has no meaning with insteon. Possibly, it is because no two people can agree on what it means for a scene to be on. If you have a scene that includes two devices, who's "on" level is 30% and 70% (more complicated still, a scene with different "on" levels for each controller), is the scene ON or OFF if the levels are 31% and 71%? What about 29% and 69%? I bring this up only to point out that scene status can be a more complicated concept than first imagined. One needs to think through their own definition of scene status to make sure any variable used accurately reflects that definition.

I agree. For showers, a temperature of (even as low as) 110F could work. One has to balance that against other needs for hot water, such as dish washing and sanitation. I am not sure what the accepted temperature for these purposes is, but I suspect it is 140+. I choose to use shower temperatures as my driving requirement.

Are we talking about a fanlinc? What device actually powers the light?

It sure sounds as if you have not missed anything. My initial reaction was "on" levels set to something other than 100%, but I guess you checked that. Other thoughts/questions: a) does the light come on at apparent same level regardless of which device sent the control command? what does ISY admin panel show as level? Is it 100% c) have you tried another light bulb? d) voltage at fixture (same question as Brian H)? e) have you tried a fast-on at the new device? Any difference? f) factory reset of new device? g) faulty device?

Possible problems: a) when you control via mobilinc, are you choosing to control the device-in-question directly, or choosing the scene you created with keypad button as controller? For example, when you wish to control the fan via mobilinc, do you select the device (fanlinc) or scene (includes kpl button and fanlinc node)? (hint: correct answer is scene.) when you control a device directly, and wish the KPL to reflect status, make sure the device is defined as CONTROLLER in the scene that includes the KPL and device. It sounds as if you have set that device as RESPONDER only.

One thing that may also help with the water heater cycling during shower is to turn the water temperature DOWN. Doing so might allow a higher ratio (thus quantity) of heated water.

No. "restore device" the ISY takes the records that the ISY believe should be in each device and recreates them. Factory reset will purge a device of all records, making it "factory" fresh. The only way to perform a factory reset is via the method in the manual for each device. Unless you have some compelling reason to want to save records or programs, I would delete each device from the ISY and perform a factory reset of each. Once reset, add them back to the ISY.

There is no such thing as a scene status. If you could identify a representative device from each scene, you may be able to try something like: If Status of representative device from scene A is off And status of representative device from scene B is off And control button B is switched on Then Turn on scene A Else...nothing You will not be able to use any wait statements, nore anything in the else path. I am a little like garyfunk in being unclear what you are trying to do.

I loose track of which versions have what capability, but I recall that some earlier versions (at least) lack the ability to control a primary (load-controlling) button via secondary ON THE SAME KEYPAD. In other words, button B cannot be set as controller to button A as responder. Perhaps you are running into this limitation? For such cases, a program can bridge the gap.

Based on advice given to me when I was going through my communication problems, I installed a dedicated circuit, just for the PLM (I have since included a access point and keypad on that circuit, as well. The acccess point is very near the breaker panel). Given the importance of communication with the PLM, I felt the effort to be worth it. I assume you have tried moving the PLM to other circuits, to see if that solves your problem. Like you, I would very much like having a tool which could somehow quantify the communication environment, compare it over time, and as I add new gadgets and appliances. One of the conclusions that I have reached is that communication problems don't always have a single cause. In your case, your problems MAY be a combination of washing machine AND something else or multiple something elses. I took the approach that ANY time I saw a single instance where unplugging something helped (even if not always), I filtered it. Period. Then, if problems persisted, I continued searching until I found the next device that, when unplugged, insteon improved. I then filtered that device. Eventually, mine worked and has continued to work. I currently have filters on a hot-water tank (on-demand), two (of nine) TVs, audio system, and all UPS/surge suppressors. I think I have a half-dozen in total. A couple hundred dollars worth of filters was worth it for me. It has been several years since I have even worried about communication problems, despite the continue addition of new cell phone chargers, tablets, power supplies, LED and CFL light bulbs, and computers.

I think I would first try a "restore PLM" first.

I expect that this program will set the "cold on third floor" variable, if the month variables are within range and temperature is between 50 and 64, inclusive. At midnight, it will execute the "else" path every time, regardless of other conditions. Of coure, the wait period will hold any real action off until 1201.

My first suspicion is a failure of something in your house that would flood the powerlines with noise. Possibly a PLM failure? I have no special troubleshooting tricks...trial and error. Though, the ISY does, I recall, have a diagnostic check of the PLM.

Thanks, but I have plenty, and have offered even to swap it out. Like PalChgo, she has a lamp attached and likes the dimming feature. It did not occur to her, however, that plugging in a vacuum or hair dryer or clock radio might be a problem. Now she knows. I always tell her how lucky she is to have a brother like me.

Not a comprehensive one, at least.

You forgot to mention whether you have advised all those living with you and guests about the limitations of that outlet and that you intend to remove the dimmer switch when you sell the house. My sisters house has an outlet controlled by a dimmer. It was this way when she bought it. I assume that it was installed by someone like you (and me)...someone who understood electrical systems and to not plug vacuum cleaners into such an outlet. Unfortunately, they did not remove it when they sold the house and now my sister must live with the additioinal risk, being unaware that this risk was there (until I told her).

I recall having some of mine where the backlight level is completely off. I never liked them this way, so I quickly readjusted them. Also, because of my mixed success with adjusting backlight levels via ISY, I have always adjested this manually via the method in the manual ( page 12 in the latest manual) setting the brightness level completely off. I havent done this in quite a while. Perhaps this ability is differernt in older versions of keypad. Perhaps I remember wrong. Unfortunately, I am not in a position to verify.

Is your motion sensor also part of you scene "motion"? If so, remove it from the scene. (I cannot help but suspect that it is, and that this is the root cause of your problems.) Eliminate your FIRST PROGRAM. It serves no purpose, nor does it have any affect on any device. In your SECOND program, use "control" rather than"stauts".

It seems to me that when one sends an OFF command ( including via a keypad configured to send OFF commands) the normal and expected response would be for lights to turn off. Also, I have had mixed success adjusting the backlight levels of a keypad. Have you tried using the manual method as described in the user manual for the keypad. I can tell you that my understanding is that keypads CAN be set to zero backlight. Having said this , the ISY would allow you to accomplish that which you seek, but would require the use of a few programs to make it happen, rathther than using the keypad button as a controller in a scene. It would look something like: If Control keypad is turned off Then Set scene off Else

I like the iPad, as well. I use one daily. However, I find that it does not offer enough flexibility for my tastes to act as a whole-house controller. For that purpose, I use android tablets. Still, based on the image you posted, this looks like little more than an app for each function, whether lighting, TV, security, music, etc.... an iPad should be able to handle that. For lighting (insteon/ISY-99 based), I use mobilinc, as well. For the rest (TV, music, security, HVAC, camera) there can be, but need not be, any relationship to insteon. For those functions, in my mind, finding the right app would be dependent on the system and hardware you have or are willing to purchase. I control my tv/theater system through a logitech review and app called "Able Remote". I don't do HVAC nor security. For music, I have a simple system based upon a Grace media streamer and use an android app from Grace to control this. For IP camera viewing, I use an app called "IPCamviewer". I also employ an app called "Tasker" to automate the display of various widgets, firing of apps, and modes based upon time of day. To emulate what you show regarding the control4 app, it would be a simple matter to create a home screen with these apps on it. Most of those apps are completely unrelated to my lighting system or insteon. The need to integrate many of those functions with insteon is simply if you have a desire to trigger security, TV, music, etc... from an insteon device or switch. The ISY controller can also help bridge communication between some of those systems. If, however, the only relationship you maintain between the various systems is the fact that all are to be controlled via a single tablet, then I see little need for all to be able to speak insteon.

Keep in mind that insteon motion sensors can be configured, just like those that are x-10. When an insteon motion sensor is configured to send only ON commands, the ISY will show a motion sensor as ON. I am not sure that insteon motion sensors will behave any differently. The question I have is why do you percieve the "status" of a motion sensor to be important? Are you trying to get a sense of how recently motion has been sensed? For me, I have simply accepted the fact that "status" has no meaning for certain devices, including motion sensors, remote controls, and IOLinc relays.

I use some x-10 motion sensors. Mine can be set up to send only ON commands, I recall. If set up in this way, LeeG's explanation is consistent with my understanding. The ISY status reflects latest command recieved.

Good. I was starting to wonder if I was missing something. Also good. I was concerned that the OP appeared to have had a much broader set of conditions, including some where the device was changing state. Fortunately, it appears that jwagner010 has gotten things working again. It is certainly difficult to diagnose problems when there are intermittent device failures thrown into the mix.

My keypad buttons ARE lit when off, albeit at a reduced level. Have you tried manually setting the brightness levels, based on the instructions in the manual? The ISY does have the ability to set backlight levels, both for ON and OFF, I believe. My experience with this is mixed, but I believe that this is due to the varying age of my keypads. Older versions, I have been told, do not support this. Regardless, I do not believe the keypad can be prograamed such that the backlight levels are the same brightness when off as for on. The level, even when on will be at a reduced level.