oberkc

That would be simple and effective. If you WANT to be able to separately control them, you have a couple of options. You could leave the inlinelinc separate and turn them both off and on at the same time using programs. Downside: you have no manual control over the inlinelinc. You could also create a new scene with the inlinelinc and switchlinc as responders and use a program to turn this scene on. Still no manual control. If you want manual control over both SWL and ILL while still maintaining individual control over the first trasformer, I believe you will need another switch somewhere. Perhaps you should replace the SWL with a keypad and control each separately?

The 75watt flood light IS your load. To double-check, these are incadescent (as opposed to CFL or other) correct? One other shot-in -the dark....where is your PLM plugged? Is it near the plug-in for your computer equipment? Do you have UPS, conditioned power, power supplies, etc... all/any plugged in outlets near the PLM? Do you use any filters in your house? If not a defective device, this sure sounds like communication issues, especially in light of the failed scene test.

That is good news. Still, you will serve yourself well to understand scenes, controllers, and responders. In the manuals of the various insteon devices, they speak of things such as linking and cross linking. When one links devices, one is creating scenes. To link a device to another, first puts a device into linking mode. This first device will be the controller. Then, when putting a second device into linking mode, it creates a link to the first. The second device is the responder. This means that the first device will control the second, and the second will respond to the first. At this point, the second device will not control the first, nor will the first device respond to the second. This is a scene containing two devices, with device one being a controller of that scene If one wants both devices to act as controllers for the other, one must cross link. This would be done by repeating the steps, above, except in opposite order of devices....start with device two, then add device one. You now have a scene with both devices being a controller. The ISY can make this job a little less tedious and time consuming. Remember one difference, however. with the ISY, controllers are, by definition, responders to a scene. While not terribly important, note also that the ISY (technically, the PLM) is also a controller and responder to this and all other scenes created by the ISY. If you have an ISY in your system, I recommend creating all scenes/links using the ISY. If you manually created links before, you may be better off long term is you re-create these on the ISY. In your case, your scene should show two devices, both being controllers.

I don't know which garage door "sensor" that you are using, or the device you are using to actually control the door, itself. It sounds, however, as if you have at least added all these devices to your ISY, correct? Scenes are in inherent part of insteon, made easier to create with the ISY. In the admin mode, with your device list on the left, there is a little icon along the top to add a new scene. Choose that icon, give your scene a name ("garage", for example). Click and drag your devices (keypad, sensor) into the scene. When prompted, make both a controller. One thing that is unclear to me...how did you get the door to respond to the keypad? Did you create an ISY program? Did you manually link the sensor and keypad (in which case, you have already created a scene)? You will definitely want to read up on scenes, both here, and at smarthome. "Scenes" are nothing more than a term used to describe two or more insteon devices linked to each other.

In general, this is my understanding. Programs are executed only at the time a condition is evaluated, which is when one or more of the statements transitions. I don't believe that a the if condition has to change state, but only be evaluated, even if the state remains unchanged. Based on the number of posts about this in the past, this is apparently confusing to many. You may benefit from tracking down some of the earlier topics.

I have purchased many lamps from superbrightLED. All of my purchases, however, were for 12V bulbs for use in my landscape fixtures and for my car. As said by apostolakisl, one must be selective. The output claims about some LEDs are overstated. Another factor about LEDs that I have seen it in the beam patterns. Incadescents, by nature, tend to send light in all directions. LEDs are typically designed in such a way as to as to concentrate their output in a more limited direction. Like apostolakisl, I have purchased (from other sources such as sam's club, Lowes, Home Depot) replacement bulbs with medium edison base and candelabra base. I have fount that most of these are not good replacements in all uses. Most of their light is concentrated straight "up" (away from base). This tends to limit the useful applications. In general, I like from superbrightLED those that have the "SMD" high power LEDs, such as: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/ ... tm%23OTHER http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/ ... m%23MALIBU http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/ ... m%23MALIBU http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/ ... x48SMD.htm I like them all in warm white. This is somewhere between incadescent and hologen, by my eye. Besides those for landscape and car, I have not purchased any others. However, the MR-16s I use for landscaping would work anywhere else that requires MR-16 (12 volts). In my estimation, the warm white might be too yellow for your application, and the cool white too blue. The color of halogen (4000K?) would be ideal. For some reason, I could not identify the E27-xW4 from their web page. My only suggestion is to pay attention to color (look for about 4000K +/-500) and beam pattern/spread. If this is an edison medium base, check out sam's club. They had a screw-in spot bulb that I have tried and currently use. It is close to halogen in color and a pretty narrow beam that might work well in highlighting your cabinet.

Most of my fixtures are those commonly available at the normal places. I tend to look for the aluminum or copper ones. Plastic has simply not held up for me. They use either wedge base or bi-pin lamps. Regarding lamps, I have used exclusively: http://www.superbrightleds.com/led_prods.htm. All lamps that I use came from here. Also, my four power supplies came from this outlet. I am a happy customer of this company. Be sure to pay attention to light color. I prefer mostly the "warm" whites. find the lamp with the correct base to fit your fixtures. Try a couple to see how you like them, find your favorites, then do your entire landscape. Based on guidance from this company, I understand that LED lamps work better on a regulated power supply. Many of the standard landscape lighting transformers may send to high a voltage, due to the low power consumption of LEDs. So far, this has worked for me.

I much prefer the automatic linking approach. Have you tried this? Choose, from the icon ribbon, start linking. When in linking mode, go to the device and put it into linking mode. Hopefullly, your new device will now show up in the ISY.

I did not want to jump in here, but wanted to throw my support for the LED approach. I have re-lamped all my fixtures with LEDs, and am very satisfied. I have four switching power supplies, controlled by four appliance modules. All power supplies are mounted inside, with LV wire exiting the house through conduit. Total power is less than 50 watts for about 40 fixtures. Voltage drop is not much a consideration at these levels. I have runs over 200 feet. I have negligible (none so far) bulb failures. I highly recommend this approach.

Scenes are generally a little quicker responding. In addition, scenes will still work if something were to happen to the ISY. My personal rule is to use scenes, where possible. Agreed, there is potentially much overlap between scenes and programs.

As an experiment, I just created a scene including a controller switch and an appliance module. I was able to create an on level of 0 for the appliance module. I have no explanation for why you are unable to set a relay switch in this way. Perhaps different versions of the switch cannot do this. Another possibility is that you have a relatively early version of the ISY software. Both of these theories are just guesses on my part.

I believe this can all be defined as a scene, but must be done through the ISY rather than direct insteon device programming. Using the ISY-99, you simply add the devices you want to the scene, then set the on levels as you desire, including setting it to 0 (or off). You did not mention how these lights and fans are controlled (switch? keypad? plug-in module? In-line linc?) or which of these, if any, are controllers. If you need further clarification, it may be useful for you to provide such details.

my understanding is that it will start back at the beginning

Let me add a question/suggestion as well... Where is your ISY/PLM plugged in? Is it on the same circuit as your computer system? Do you have power conditioners or UPS? If so, I suggest filtering all computer equipment and keep your PLM off the filter. It amazed me how much computer equipment and peripheral devices can mess with insteon. I also sense that this is a common problem with many. If you suspect this could be an issue with you, it may be pretty easy to confirm. Go grab yourself an extension cord. Plug the cord into a different ciruit in a different room. Unplug your PLM and plug it back into the extension cord. See if this solves your problem.

So you already have programs that do things. I was a little confused. I thought you used scenes. I suggest re-reading the post from Sub-routine. You might find his approach even better than using controls and programs. Using scenes would give you a perceptibly faster response to button presses. There is a little delay with using programs. I assume that this is due to the extra communication associated with programs and in the time it takes to execute the program, itself.

You are correct. This is, I believe, a presumed status on the part of ISY. I don't believe the actual device has a status and understand it has no bearing on the function of the remotelinc. Neither will it have any affect on controlled devices (after intial scene activation), unless you use this condition as part of a program. I continue to maintain that turning your remotelinc off to be an unecessary step.

I don't believe this is true. Remote linc buttons have no status, in my mind. They simply send on and off commands, depending on which side you press. If you press button 5 on, go to another scene, then press button 5 again, then scene 5 will come back on.

I like this solution for those who value highly the quicker reaction of a scene compared to a program. Keep in mind, however, that the ability to set on levels without a manual reset is not present in some of the older insteon devices. I cannot say which version incorporated this feature, but know that I can do this with some of my devices, and not others. My oldest are around three years old.

I cannot turn off the LED at all , ever eithe manually or via software So, you have created a scene with only the keypad button in it, but turning the scene off (either manually or through a program) has no effect. Maybe you are having communication issues. How many insteon devices do you have. Do you use access points or similar? Do you use any filters? Is you computer system on a UPS or conditioned power? Is your ISY/PLM in the same outlet as your computer system? My next temptation would be to perform a scene test on that scene to see if there are any indications of communication problems. This is available under diagnostics. Try it on this scene and on a few others. Do you see any indication of failure? The only other thing that I can think of is the possibility that certain versions (older) may not have the ability to respond in such a manner. I know that the backlight of older KPLs cannot be remotely dimmed. Perhaps this is available only in newer generation switches. We do know that MikeB can control his backlight in this way, and that I was able to do so as well. My KPL was about 2 years old.

I don't have the insteon motion sensor. Mine are X-10. Much has been written about the insteon version, though. I don't see why this is necessary. I also understand that the sensor does not respond to insteon commands, only sends them. Based on what I have read, the insteon motion sensor sends an on command any time that it senses motion, after it has reset itself. I understand that there are various jumper settings that reset the internal timer and one for sending an off command. If you configure the jumpers (perhaps jumper 4?) in such a way as to send only on commands, then I would expect to recieve on commands each time motion is sensed. Since you would be using the ISY program to turn off your lights, then this should work for you. As I recall, your problems are not unique. My link to the wiki is: http://www.universal-devices.com/mwiki/index.php?title=Main_Pag Hopefully, it still works.

Ooo!. This statement causes me to wonder if you have communication issues. Are you able to manually turn that scene 'Garage to Master Bed LED' off? I have a couple of other thoughts regarding the program, but are suspicions only and hesitate to post until I can confirm on my own ISY. Perhaps those with the real brains can spot something right away.

Programs are probably your best bet here. If you only have the motion sensor and one switchlinc, then there is no need to create the scene. In fact, as you point out, the scene would work without any time-based constraints. Create a program that respondes to the motion sensor as a control. You can either use a program folder to constrain the program operational time, or a second condition in your program. You did not specify what you intend to do as a response to motion, but be aware that there are a couple of pitfalls that one must avoid. These are generally associated with the possibility that your program is running when the time contraint expires. For example, if a program is waiting a few minutes before turning a light off, and your time condition expires, the light will remain on. Also, there is a pretty exhaustive discussion on the wiki about motion sensors. It is probably best that you check it out.

As usual, MikeB was correct. Out of curiousity, I wanted to confirm the ability to control the LED of a keypad button set for non-toggle. I was able to do this on the oldest KPL in my inventory. As far as why you are having no luck, I can only assume that the program may not be set up correctly. Perhaps you could post it so that others can see it. Otherwise, I suspect it will be hard to offer much solid advice.

I know that you can turn off the backlight of the entire KPL. On some newer keypads, you can dim the backlight level. The instructions for the KPL include the steps. I recall that it was dependent on which version (8 button or 6?) and it was to simultaneously hold two buttons. It can also be done through the ISY on some of the newer versions of KPL. In the device properties is a backlight property where one can set the backlight levels. I am unaware of any way to separately control individual KPL backlight levels. The suggestion from BLH may work, but I am unsure if this is effective for KPL buttons set in non-toggle mode.

my uderstanding is that the non-toggle on mode leaves the backlight in the on level. In non toggle off, the backlight is always in the off level. While one may be able to adjust the backlight levels, I believe that to be the extent of the flexibility offered by these devices.