hart2hart

Same goes for us that adopted ISY for Insteon before zwave was even real. Please help us plan what our future will be be. God forbid but do we need to be looking for another HA platform? I’m suddenly very sick to my stomach.

Which do you consider high endurance microSD cards? Just SanDisk?

Thanks for the feedback. I’ve got a spare laying in wait for wiki defined process and hoping it’s not needed. Not that it’s relevant anymore but my thought had been to get one the same size as in the ISY to prevent size related cloning. I’ve had that be an issue on RPis.

Some people got carried away with external antennas and thought the higher the gain the better. They didn’t realize high gain created signal strength that was directional. They about drove UD staff out of their minds complaining. Not speaking for UD but it may have be part of reason it was removed in new board and maybe something to do with zwave standards. I worked with new board for two weeks and could not get it reliable. I dropped back to older firmware and board and am 100% reliable again. Looked to see if their was a way to solder a connector to new board but decided I’d just stay put until Polisy with its Zwave interface arrives. Also looked at Schlage Encode but it doesn’t have a reachable local or cloud api. If that happens, I’d drop Zwave in a heartbeat.

The only way I got them to wok was with an external antenna with a slight gain on the 300 series board. I had it “pointed” at my 2 schlage deadbolts.

Where did you get PCB? Is it a prototype board? Can’t see any detail from photo. Thanks

Schlage BE469ZP? Reports changes near 100% of the time with repeaters or or zwave devices to form a mesh.

Sorry to repeat a bunch of stuff you were already aware of. I think they’re like mine and the batteries are inside - right so don’t think temp would be a factor. Do you still have the 4 batteries so you could test sit a multimeter ? I’ve had one of four go bad suddenly and since they are in series they fail instantly. It wasn’t a lock but same principle. Of course it could be a bad lock. There were a few settings that impacted battery life but nothing like you describe.

The locks do not display 100% of usable life. It’s 100% of total voltage. For example 4 AA Batteries in series will register 100% until voltage is less than 6 volts. At 90% the voltage is 5.4 V. The usable voltage is somewhere around 60% for me and then it’s too low to move the bolt. But you’ll notice it slowing near the end. I have program the tells me below 65% and I replace rather than get a failure. Good Alkaline batteries have a linear drop off. Lithium batteries go from hero to zero very rapidly but have a longer overall life. In other words they fail before you can be warned sometimes.

Thanks gentlemen. I know about the way to do a recovery if a card were to fail using backups which I have. It felt like if a simple image of card could be created on a new card there might be less moving parts and potentially less room for issues. With all respect for the advice given, does anyone know if a cloned image will work? I’ve long considered this as another backup before a major upgrade.

Will something like win32 imager clone an ISY SD card? My ISY card has not failed and it’s from time if release of 994. Thinking of doing as preventative maintenance.

I’ll pay shipping if you want to get rid of syncrolinc. I’d like to replace capacitors and see if it will work. I’ve been using 2 for many years dreading when one or both fail.

Since I have three Venstar thermostats, I would execute rest command three times for ven1, ven2 and ven3. Correct?

Look this up On amazon Aeotec by Aeon Labs ZW096 ZW096-A Smart Switch 6 I’ve used it to replace a syncrolinc to monitor dishwasher. I just hate all the zwave distance issues so I’ve got more repeaters than actual devices to make it reliable.

What are you trying to do? Turn a lamp on wit a switch? Are they Insteon or zwave or a mix? If Insteon you should create a scene. One of best features of Insteon.

A bit off topic but SmartHome has been out of stock for serial link PLMs for some time. Has anyone considered using the USB version with a usb to rs-232 converter? I’ve used one by Aten for many years in other applications.

Use replace device in ISY. That feature for Insteon is worth the price if ISY. Ive got very large scenes and it has worked every time for 12 years. Loved it as I moved to dual band devices after big smart home sales. Only limitation is you can not replace unlike devices. Say a relay with a dimmer. Also, if it impacts battery operated device, you’ll need to wake them up and apply the changes. Kinda surprised that all with Insteon don’t feel like this is gold. But to each his/her own.

Thanks for everything over the years. NodeLink and it’s xxxlinks before it are a huge part of my home automation.

Will that mean reworking programs?

My current use case is it to program a reboot of ISY on time change nights to get it back in sync. If it’s easy to do, would be great. Now I have a email sent to make me manually reboot. May all be moot if US legislature puts us on DST permanently. I can’t help but think that other use cases exist. Also, think I recalled it was a command from ISY to reboot computer that xxxLink was running on that I remember. Is move to net 5 next big change?

Is there a way to use NodeLink to send a reboot to the ISY. I recall there was with xxxLink programs but cant locate it here. Thanks

For this type connection, get very fine gauge stranded wire. Put solder on the end of the wire with a tiny bit extra near the end. Place wire tip at the point on PCB and then heat wire and solder point at same time to fuse them together. You don’t have to put solder direct to board.

Glad it’s working for the most part. I’m still not completely clear on the other motor. If there is something independent that you want to control, maybe a micro module could be wired in to control it as part of a scene. Depending on space you might be able to hide a relay with button or inline relay (think someone posted they were out of stock) if amps exceeds a micro module. Also, as lilyoyo1 stated, the 2487S will dim as part of a scene but not when directly wired. Was odd to me too.

Thanks. To OP, you need to closely read how to setup fan speed scenes with keypadlinc buttons A-D. It was far from intuitively obvious to me.

I’m making a lot of assumptions to help you think through based on what you’ve written but would need a wiring diagram to understand layout and maybe suggest a solution. If you don’t fully understand the process then get an electrician. That said... Think through putting a wire nut on the red load wire of the 2487S which effectively unlinks it from direct control of anything. Run wires to the FanLinc so it’s always got power (wired hot). In 2487S switch box,the hot black wire coming in with power wired to black (line) on switch and to black wire going out of box to the fanlinc electrical box. Same logic for white wire but on 2487S white wire is marked as neutral. These wires would be wired to fanlinc neural and line wires giving it power all the time. You might use scenes linked to buttons on the 2487S to control the fan and it’s light. Lastly sounds like you could create a scene including switch from overhead lights, 2487s, and fanlinc lights node to have them be in sync on lighting. Again, NOT offered as a solution. Just something to aid you in thinking it through.