Nestor

Done!

5.83

As previously mentioned, clicking on any of the three submenu items brings up nothing. No pop-ups. The menu disappears and I’m back to the page.

Tried logging in and out too. Same thing. Everything I did from my previous reply was from a PC. As previously mentioned, the same issue occurs in Firefox. I’m now on my iPad Pro and the same weird behaviour is occurring in Safari. Clicking on your link takes me to page 7 of another thread. If I click on a page # or Next, the page scrolls down until the row of page numbers is at the top of the browser, which was occurring before in both. ETA: Prev, Next and page jumps appear to work in my Iphone13 with Safari.

Following the geofencing instructions in the wiki. When I click on Select tool...>Occupancy Node Server> followed by any of the selections, I get...nothing. Clicking on other menu items such as Information or Logs responds with a pop-up with relevant information, however none of the Node Server submenus work. Is this by design? Thanks Edit: Would this have something to do with being a long-time Mobilinc user who just recently set up UD Mobile? When I go to the Portals tab in the UD Admin Console and click on "more info", the account type is "Corporate".

Still not working for me. 😕 FWIW, I cleared my cache, shut down all running instances of Edge, and rebooting my PC. Edge version is 126.0.2592.68 (Official build) (64-bit)

Thank you. Does that mean I can delete the old ISY from the portal before I buy the license?

It's active, but it's the free trial. Can I just let it run its course and purchase after it's expired?

I think so..

Can't seem to left-click on forum thread page numbers in MS Edge browser. Have to right click and open a new page or tab. Same behavior in Firefox. Any ideas?

Hi, when I tried migrating from the old ISY to the EISY, the portal said I had no license to migrate. When I try to buy a license on either the old ISY or the EISY, it keeps saying I can't buy a license because the device is no longer supported. How do I sort this out? Thanks

Migration has begun but not without hiccups. 1. Removed all Zwave devices and performed backup. 2. Removed ISY and serial PLM; installed EISY and USB PLM. 3. Booted and restored from backup. Some Insteon devices restored. Most didn't. Tried restoring devices but ended up deleting and re-linking devices. ` I haven't started with Z-wave just yet as I wanted to verify my network resource commands and here's where I'm running into issues. My Network Resources commands no longer work. I've tried testing each one and my devices no longer talk back. I tried testing the programs from the ISY and they still work, so the issue lies with the EISY. Any ideas? Nestor Edit: Scratch that. Just realized I needed to open and save each NR. Other than having trouble resetting some pesky 10 yr old GE/Jasco switches, progress continues.

Noted. Thanks. About a dozen Zwave, including a thermostat and door lock. I’ll clean out the zwave devices and do another backup. Thx!

Hi, earlier this year, I purchased an EISY and Zmatter dongle and finally getting around to migrate from my ISY994 ZWIR PRO. Reviewing the instructions, I seem to have a few roadblocks to get around. As thread title might indicate, my ISY has the older Model 300 Zwave board and a pre-req for migration is the Model 500. Currently using the Insteon serial PLM. Purchased the USB PLM but inadvertently did not purchase the serial to USB PLM cable. Along with Zwave and Insteon devices, I've created a number network resources to control some older Yamaha receivers. I performed both the full Zwave backup, the ISY backup, and copied the root program folder into a text file, but I'm unclear on what the results will be given the above. What kind of issues should I expect with my Zwave network after restoring to the EISY? Can I simply follow the wiki for replacing the PLM once I reach that step? If it's best to start from scratch, I don't want to lose my network resources. Do I just buckle up and copy each one individually to text files or can I export them in their entirety and manually add them later? Your assistance is appreciated! Nestor

My geofencing is still inconsistent on my iPhone 13 Pro Max. Running iOS 15.2 and MobiLinc HD. Everything used to run well on my 6 S plus before I upgraded to the new phone this Oct. Has this issue been resolved for others?

It's one thing to say how many programs one has written, but I think one needs to also mention the number of nodes one has to provide some context. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For my house design, (four level back split), monitorig and control of my garage doors is only a few steps away, so the KPL didn't seem very useful. I can definitely see where that wouldn't be the case for other people though. As someone who has made his iphone a fifth appendage , (Curse you Steve Jobs!) smartphone integration seemed to make the most sense.

For garage door openers, what advantages, if any, are there to using a scene instead of a program? My current setup is as follows for each of two garage doors: --Ecolink Z wave tilt sensor --IOlinc connected to "activate" button on spare battery powered remote. The OEM wall-mount paddle controllers are within easy reach of my interior garage door, making keypad lincs somewhat redundant, so my primary, ISY-wise control is via Mobilinc and two small ("Then") programs on my iPhone. I haven't had much to do with scenes mainly because, having transferred from a Veralite, most of my devices are Zwave. I wouldn't even have a program, but because not all IOlinc modes are accessible via direct device operation, I made a small program to ensure the relay feedback is always seen as "off" after each operation: If - No Conditions Then Set 'Relay Garage Door North' On Wait 1 second Set 'Relay Garage Door North' Off Else - No Actions Everything worked quite well. The doors opened and closed with a single press of a Mobilin icon, and the Garage Door Icons changed state as expected. Until winter time, that is. I discovered to my chagrin that the Ecolink tilt sensors aren't designed for sub-freezing temperatures, which pretty well rules out their functionality for a good 3 or 4 months out of the year. Note that door control was unaffected, only feedback. I should add that I went with the Ecolinks because at the time, I was steering away from Insteon after I discovered Veralite's lousy state feedback performance with Insteon. My motive behind the original question is that, because I will be replacing the Ecolinks with magnetic limit switches and using the sensor inputs on the IOlincs, I'm compelled to revisit my original configuration. I know most people here use scenes for their garage doors, but because I don't use keypad lincs, I couldn't find a way to work the lone IOlincs into a scene that made sense to me. Maybe that will change now that I have a more "uniform" garage door setup. Suggestions?

You got it. The opener still acknowledges receipt of the commands, but all it does is blink the actuator mounted lamp. A handy feature during testing, since I could verify operation without having to open up my insulated garage to this frigid Ontario air.

When the remote-lockout function is enabled, the garage door will not respond to wireless remote commands, only from the hardwired paddles. Since the IOLincs are connected to a wireless remote, this measure of safety is retained. ETA: when I state "remote-lockout", I mean "lockout of remotes" rather than "lockout from a remote location".

The OEM wall mount controllers for my opener have additional functions to control the actuator mounted light and to lockout remote control signals, but it was only doing it on two wires. So I hooked up an oscilloscope in between and discovered there is a constant pulse train that changes according which button is depressed. One can still operate the garage doors locally with the wall mount paddlles, regardless of the state of remote-lockout, and hacking the paddles would bypass this function, so I opted to hack one of the visor-mounted remotes with a pair of IOLincs (one for each door). This ensures against the (unlikely, I hope) dreaded "All On" event, and the (more likely) "fat fingered moment" on my iPhone while away from home. YMMV

Setting aside their internals for a moment, the switches would have to be wired in parallel to even have a chance of working. The real problem lies with the internals. When one dimmer is switched on, the load wire on the other dimmer would see 120vac. You'd probably pop the breaker and very likely toast one or both dimmers. I don't think it's workable. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I find the stability of this controller more than makes up for whatever reservations one might have about using a Java based admin console. Once set up, I've found I've had to access the console MUCH less than the previous non Java based controller I used. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is the disadvantage of variables?

Enjoying setup of my ISY and getting my brain into a programming frame of mind once again. Though there are no real right ways or wrong ways to get the same results, some are more efficient, maybe even faster. Do you use a certain problem-solving approach in your programming, or do you cobble something together until it works? What do you do to keep the programs as small, flexible, and efficient as possible?