Nestor

The OEM wall mount controllers for my opener have additional functions to control the actuator mounted light and to lockout remote control signals, but it was only doing it on two wires. So I hooked up an oscilloscope in between and discovered there is a constant pulse train that changes according which button is depressed. One can still operate the garage doors locally with the wall mount paddlles, regardless of the state of remote-lockout, and hacking the paddles would bypass this function, so I opted to hack one of the visor-mounted remotes with a pair of IOLincs (one for each door). This ensures against the (unlikely, I hope) dreaded "All On" event, and the (more likely) "fat fingered moment" on my iPhone while away from home. YMMV

Setting aside their internals for a moment, the switches would have to be wired in parallel to even have a chance of working. The real problem lies with the internals. When one dimmer is switched on, the load wire on the other dimmer would see 120vac. You'd probably pop the breaker and very likely toast one or both dimmers. I don't think it's workable. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I find the stability of this controller more than makes up for whatever reservations one might have about using a Java based admin console. Once set up, I've found I've had to access the console MUCH less than the previous non Java based controller I used. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is the disadvantage of variables?

Enjoying setup of my ISY and getting my brain into a programming frame of mind once again. Though there are no real right ways or wrong ways to get the same results, some are more efficient, maybe even faster. Do you use a certain problem-solving approach in your programming, or do you cobble something together until it works? What do you do to keep the programs as small, flexible, and efficient as possible?

I suggested to another member wanting to monitor a hot tub that a Mimolite connected to an industrial temperature transmitter might work. Mimolite is Zwave, though.

Admittedly, I haven't dug really hard into this, but from what I can see, the Mimolite can read a voltage and return a value via Zwave. I mentioned thermocouples as they are generally cheaper than a Resistance Thermal Device. Something like the following http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1734312.pdf will return a standard 4- 20 mA signal, which can be easily converted to a voltage with a precision resistor and read by the Mimiolite. Hope this makes sense so far.

Since you are considering the AEOTEC, which is Zwave, I suggest mating an industrial thermocouple temperature sensor to a Mimolite. Hot tub temps may be out of range of the devices you mentioned.