stusviews

How slow? Based on a timer, not a guess, BTW. Which of the three devices is wired to the load. What's the load? Is the device wired to the load a relay or a dimmer? If it's a dimmer, then what is the ramp rate set at?

Switch to the new PLM. If it outlasts the warranty and fails down the line, you still have one that has life left until you replace the one that failed

Click on the MS, select Options. Adjust the timeout, be sure "On commands only" is not checked. Hold the MS set button to put it in linking mode. Click on Done.

In no particular order and certainly not inclusive, here's a half dozen plus a couple more differences : 1. Scenes are created on the devices involved and are independent of how they are created (i.e., ISY, software, manually). Programs require that the ISY be functional. 2. Scenes control devices concurrently. Programs control devices sequentially. 3. Scenes act on devices nearly instantly. Programs require processing time. 4. There's a limit on the number of scenes a device is capable of. A device can be a member of unlimited programs. 5. A device can be a controller of only one scene. A device can control multiple scenes programs. 6. Scenes cannot invoke programs. Programs can run and/or modify a scene. 7. Scenes are unconditional. Programs execute based on a condition. 8. Scenes cannot respond to input from the various modules nor control such devices. Programs can respond to input from the various modules and control such devices. IMO, 5, 6, 7 and 8 are the only reasons to use a program rather than a scene. Darn, order mattered after all Edited 4.

No, you should be able to control the On/Off Outlet using a scene. Click on the scene. Ensure that both the Outlet and the SwitchLinc are set to 100%. Select Tools > Diagnostics > Event Viewer. Set the level to 3 Device communications events. Right click on the scene and select Diagnostics > Scene test. Did the test succeed?

There are three OutletLincs with different requirements. Which one do you have? What kind of bulb is in the lamp? Did you turn the lamp and verify that it is on before plugging it into the OutletLinc?

Which outlet? What's plugged into the outlet?

You cannot separate a device from the scene it controls. If a device is a controller of a scene, then a single off tap will turn off all devices in the scene as will a double tap. If you want to distinguish between a single and double tap, then the double tap responders will need to be in a different scene than the single tap responders. Once that's done you can use a program to turn off the double tap responders. But the devices that are members of the scene with the controller will turn off whether you single or double tap the controller.

Teken, I just did and it does. And, like mine, it's a relay in 8-button mode. So, I tried the 4-tap test and the button LED's did blink when the devices were on opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply. But the 4-tap test was not initiated at the other times I observed the blinking--especially not at 3 or 5 in the morning.

If the MBR Overhead Sw is a controller of the scene, then either an Off or a Fast Off should turn off all devices in the scene--even if there's no program to do so. If the MBR Overhead Sw is just a responder, then a program is needed.

In the event you missed it in my previous posts, here's a brief summary: The errant KPL is a 2487S, v.41 in 8-button mode. Some devices sometimes blink in unison, some don't. Which ones do or don't is not consistent. Some devices that react are on the same circuit, some are not. That doesn't seem to matter. I did perform a factory reset--twice--to no avail. The pulsating LED's are not the same as the response to the 4-tap test. I've never seen LED buttons respond to the beacon test, only the set LED. BTW, I no longer have any Access Points/Range Extenders. If the 4-tap test is any indication, then the nearly 100 installed dual-band devices seem to be doing their job even though most, but not all, are installed in metal boxes.

The LED brightness is set to low values every night and restored in the morning. There are 10 devices involved in changing the LED brightness, the On/Off KPL that pulsates, one SwitchLinc relay, two KPL dimmers and six SwitchLinc dimmers. I'm on v.4.3.10 Firmware and UI. The ISY is a 994i Pro with an added network and Z-Wave modules. I'll probably update to 4.3.20 later today.

I'm not especially concerned about the SLD's. In any case, LED Blink on Traffic is unchecked on both SLD's shown in the video. Last night, at about 3:20 am, the light show began and lasted on and off for about 20 min. During that time I observed the LampLinc (2457D2) LED blinked in unison--but then didn't. About the time the LampLinc stopped blinking, two SwitchLinc dimmers began to blink their LEDs. These are not the SLD's shown in the video. Both of these SLD's and the LampLinc are on a different circuit than the errant KPL. These dimmers also have LED Blink on Traffic unchecked (the option is available on the ISY). The pulsating count on the KPL seems consistent, ten blinks. Sometimes the tenth blink has the same duration as the others, sometimes it's quicker. I'm at a total loss as to the cause. One more possible clue. The SwitchLinc labelled Fireplace does not blink, neither do the top two and bottom two LEDs on the errant KPL (remember, it's a 6-button KPL in 8-button mode). Both these devices, the SwitchLinc and the KPL are relays, not dimmers. There are also two more KPL dimmers and a SwitchLinc dimmer that are unaffected.

The devices are all i2CS. It's unlikely that noise can affect devices on a different circuit, but that's what's happening. The only device that's on opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply is the HVAC. The phenomenon happens if the HVAC system is on or off. BTW, my wife's dad was a merchant seaman--from Kansas. The seas are somewhat distant

I can guarantee that, no matter how fast you are, you cannot get four button LEDs to synchronize that rapidly, in unison, for the duration shown in the video. The video is a true representation of what is happening, not an artifact. Note also that the Fireplace LED is not blinking

Unlikely, as there's a LampLinc on another circuit that sometimes pulsates in unison. Also, no ground wires in the room with the errant KPL. I installed all the wiring using metal conduit and metal boxes (my wife assisted in pulling the wires). Grounding is secured by screwing the device to the box. All splices and devices were double checked using appropriate gauges, most especially receptacles. I take wiring very seriously. All wiring is color coded using black, red, blue, yellow, purple, orange and brown. Neutrals are white or gray which allows installing a box with four separate circuits. I was a Class A Journeyman electrician in NYC during the '60s. My dad was an electrician--I was probably his first shock BTW, switches are fully functional without a ground. If there was a neutral problem, all the buttons on the KPL would be affected, not just the middle four. And certainly not the LampLinc across the room on a different circuit.

The 4-tap test requires pressing the initiating set four times very rapidly, something like that cannon occur unintentionally. As I indicated, we've been woken up by the pulsating in the wee hours of the morning. No one else is in the house. Additionally, the 4-tap test blinks the set button LEDs, not the button LEDs. The KPL button blinking after pushing it is different. In that case, the KPL will blink two or three times (depending if it's set to be Always On/Off of if the responder doesn't ACK, respectively) and then it stops. It does not pulsate continuously as shown above. Too, it's virtually impossible to press all four button simultaneously. I use to term pulsating to distinguish the phenomenon for the "normal" blinking. The color buttons are the result of using KPL Color Diffusers. There are also Color kits for SwitchLincs.

Nope, the pulsating occurs randomly. It may last for a few seconds up to a minute. Most of the time, it will pulsate, then stop only to recur a few seconds later. This pulsate, stop, pulsate may go on for 8-10 cycles, then stop until the next occurrence. The KPL is in the bedroom. The pulsating has woken us up, for example at 5 AM. The movie shown in the first post was about 3 in the afternoon. Also, these are the button LEDs that pulsate, not the set LED. Of the three other devices I've observed pulsating in unison, none do it every time the KPL button LEDs blink which makes it more confusing. The KPL is a 6-button relay in 8-button mode with both the top (A & and bottom (G & H) buttons cross-linked so I can control 5 devices. Note that the top and bottom cross-linked pairs are no affected by the pulsating.

If someone is going to do minor wiring, then it's easy to add a relay to trigger an I/O Linc. If a neutral is available, then a Syncrolinc is even easier.

Update: didn't help. KPL is pulsating again.

Thanks for the tip. The device is a KPL Relay, v.41. Reset and restored. I'll update this post in a few days.

One of my KPLs randomly pulsates its LEDs. The KPL is in 8-button mode with a 6-button faceplate. Only the middle four LEDs pulsate even though the bottom two LEDs (covered with a large button) are also secondary buttons as is one of the top buttons. The Close buttons are set to Always Off, the Open buttons are set to Always On. Two (of the three) other devices shown to the right do not always pulsate. The SwitchLinc labelled "Ceiling" is on the same circuit, the SwitchLinc labelled "Patio" is not. The SwitchLinc labelled "Fireplace" is on the same circuit and doesn't pulsate. Another device, a LampLinc also on a different (third) circuit sometimes pulsates, too. The device on the same circuit pulsates in green only, the devices on different circuits alternately pulsate green and red. Nothing shows in the log and none of the loads are affected at all. Any ideas? https://www.dropbox.com/s/mjor5eryim1yrzb/DSCN0800.MOV?dl=0

Not to worry. The TriggeLinc is the old name for the Open/Close Sensor and naught has changed, so there's no reason to change anything in the ISY just to accommodate a different designation (other than relieving some confusion). Each additional item uses a bit more memory.

I'm not sure what your specific problem is, but Stop a program means to discontinue a running program from running. You may want to use Enable and/or disable the program(s).

The PLM must be powered on before the ISY is connected. Connect the PLM and ISY in the correct order and try Restore modem again.