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Most construction with metal boxes uses metal sheathed wiring (e.g., BX, Greenfield/flex, EMT, conduit). The boxes are grounded. In that case, grounding to the box is not only OK, it's an approved method.

You are correct. If there is no ground connection, then connecting the ground to the fan bracket is as effective as cutting the ground wire off. OTOH, connecting the wire feels better BTW, early non-metallic wiring (e..g, Romex) was usually installed using Bakelite boxes for both the ceiling and wall which were less costly than metal boxes.

The switch box is metal. That suggests that there may be no ground wires. Guessing about wiring can be successful or it can be disasterous.

When triggered, a flow based program will run from beginning to end even if the state of the trigger becomes false during the execution of the program. An event based program will be interrupted if and when the condition become false. This can be tricky. For example, if the trigger is that a device is manually turned on, then the program will not end if the device is turned off. That's because the condition only says what to do when the device is switched on, but not what to do if it's switched off. To accomplish that, the condition should include that the device is switched on and the device is not switched off.

Rob, When you control a scene, all scene members respond. When you control a device, only that device responds, not any of the devices linked as responders. To do otherwise could create an infinite loop. Here's how: The most common cross-linking/scene is between two switches, A & B, in a virtual 3-way configuration. If I turn on A, B turns on as expected and the signal stops. But suppose any time a device received a signal that device would turn on its responder links. Then A would turn on B, but when B received an on, then it would turn on A which would turn on B which ...

http://www.autelis.com/homeautomation/convenience-security.html

The images show the wires entering the fan/light. They do NOT show the ceiling box. You'll have to remove the bracket and plastic ceiling medallion to expose the wiring in the ceiling box. An electrician will have to remove the fan/light. For the same or nearly the same cost, the electrician can do the wiring, too. The instructions are: The Fanlinc requires unswitched line and neutral, black and white, respectively. Red powers the fan, blue powers the lights. The Keypad requires unswitched line and neutral, black and white, respectively. The red (load) wire is capped. That's it for the wiring. Everything else is done using scenes.

What you should see is at least two black and two white wires (ignoring any ground wires).

In all likelihood, the alarm is 120VAC. In all likelihood, the alarm does not draw enough current to trigger a SynchroLinc, but it may. The only way to tell is to use and ammeter or test a SynchroLinc. If the alarm is, in fact, line voltage, than a Micro Module is the appropriate device. There a good chance that a Micro Module will fit inside the enclosure. You may lose the RF capability if the enclosure is metal.

That can occur if you didn't allow the ISY enough time to complete writing links.

The switch is easy, but the image does not clearly show each individual wire coming from the ceiling box. In fact, the ceiling box is not shown at all. Describe the wires including the colors.

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Photos of wiring are good. An accompanying description including wire colors is even better. Do not disconnect anything except the existing fixture (or fan/light) if needed. BTW, your wiring is standard. It will not be difficult to provide explicit instructions.

Did you follow the procedure to replace the PLM? http://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=ISY-99i/ISY-26_INSTEON:File_Menu#Restore_Modem_.28PLM.29

A voltmeter is inadequate for testing a battery as it doesn't subject the battery to a load. Use a battery tester such as this one.

Describe the wires at the ceiling box. You can disregard any ground wires. Edit: If you have a FanLinc, then you do not need a Micro Module.

Does the red LED blink when you walk by? (LED option selected)

The MS requires about 4 1/2 minutes of solitude before it's able to respond to motion. So, if you move it around to, for example, press the set button, then leave the MS alone in place prior to prancing.

Did you link the MorningLinc to the lockset? If so, can you control the lock from the MorningLinc?

Once you provide line and neutral to the KPL and cap the load (red) wire, you can use the buttons for whatever you want.

Modified for KPL and FanLinc: Remove the fixture. You'll probably find one or more black wires (line) connected to the white wire going to the switch. Reconnect the wires going to the switch so that white is neutral and black is line. Connect the KPL to line and neutral and cap the load wire. Install the FanLinc in the canopy and create five scenes, one for the light, three for the fan speeds and one for fan off.

Two programs.

That's standard wiring. What you have is called a switch-loop. The line is white and the load wire is black. That's done in order to prevent wiring the fixture to two white wires. Back to your question. The answer is yes, but you'll need two devices, one to take the place of the switch (e.g., SwitchLinc, Keypad) and one to install in the fixture, such as a Micro Module or In-LineLinc. What you install in the fixture depends on the load. Remove the fixture. You'll probably find one or more black wires (line) connected to the white wire going to the switch. Reconnect the wires going to the switch so that white is neutral and black is line. Cap the load wire of whatever you decide to install in the wall box. Install the fixture module and create a scene with the wall device as a controller of the fixture device.