stusviews

There are multiple ways of running cables/wires. The diagram show only one way, with the source at one end and the load at the other. It's also possible that both the source and the load are at the fixture, or, in some cases, at the switch box.

I enough aware of wiring to provide an international internet interpretation of virtually any line voltage wired device as long as it exceeds 100VAC, has 277VAC as a maximum, both with respect to ground and is restricted to either 50Hz or 60Hz, formerly cps. But, if you want to create travel arrangements, I can find a place to stay Edit: Describe colors, etc. at each switch box.

That could have been me. That's what I do

I'd suggest describing the wiring in each switch box.

Those not placed in programming mode won't be restored, although the ISY will take a bit time trying to write to them. They'll have 1101 to the left mean that writes are pending. If you have a Pro ISY, you can turn off writing to those devices during the restore to save time.

That cannot be the wiring in your case if you installed the Micro Module in the switch box. That is the correct wiring when the Micro Module is installed in the fixture box. But, although there is only one schematic, how the wires are run varies.

enaiman, It doesn't matter where you live, there is only one schematic for connecting multi-way switches. Also, there is no code color colour requirement for multi-way switches. So, describing wiring IS meaningful. Australia uses brown and red for the phases, blue or black for neutral and green/yellow for earth BTW, I don't have any hashtags.

First, retry the procedure, powering up in the correct order.

Describe the wires in each switch box, for example, colors, how they are bundled (e.g., 1 black and white cable, 2 black, red and white cables, etc.). Also, how they're connected (e.g, one black screw with a white wire and brass screws with black and red wires).

It seems that you missed a few steps in practice or in reporting. power down the ISY <--done replace the modem <--done power up the modem first <--?? power up the ISY second <--?? restore the modem <--done Order matters.

Provide the make and model of the timer.

If you perception is that keen (meant as a compliment), then you'll have to put in some─or a lot of─extra effort which, fortunately, the ISY allows. Use programs to change the LED brightness based on time-of-day or a button press.

The 15 amp ACT filter will handle any load unless you have a dedicated 20 amp receptacle, one that has a T-shaped on the neutral side (wide blade). You can plug a power strip into the filtered side for all you gear. As a test, unplug everything but the computer and router. Does communication improve?

If there is no lighting at all, the the PLM needs replacement. DO NOT EVER SELECT Delete PLM!!! Unplug the PLM. After 10 or more seconds, plug it back in. Try while holding the set button and not holding. Still unlit? Try Amazon.

The ISY functions best when it's the only Insteon manager. Did you select remove all links when tyou added the remote to the ISY? If you did, then you're good to go. If you selected keep links, then post back. There's an easy fix.

Communication difficulties can be the result of signal suckers that clean the powerline such as surge suppressors, line conditioners and UPSs and signal stompers that overcome the signal such as some computer power supplies, TVs and wall warts. In either case, the cure is a filter. The problem is finding the offending device. There are two circuits of concern, the one that powers the PLM and Outdoor Module circuit. Start by unplugging everything on the same circuit as the Outdoor Module. Just turning things off is inadequate, they must be unplugged. Also, unplug the module's load. Any success? If not, then use an extension cord or two to power the PLM from the same circuit as the Outdoor Module. If that works, then the culprit is something on the same circuit as where the PLM was originally plugged in.

The Off and On illumination levels are not independent. Nor do they have a linear relationship. Try this: Set both Off and On levels to 0 (zero). Set the Off level to 1. Is that OK? If so, start to increase the On level incrementally as desired. If Off is too dim, increase the Off level by one increment until you reach the level you want. Only then, adjust the On level. Decreasing any level can require that you start over. Caveat: Your revision may behave differently.

It's not possible to use one device to bridge the opposite legs of the center-tapped, single-phase electric supply. At least two devices are required. What steps did you take to ensure that coupling has occurred? in both directions?

That's the way all Insteon devices function. Otherwise, it would be too easy to create an infinite loop. If you want the Mini Remote button to activate a scene, then add it as a controller for the scene, not just one device.

That's the Amazon description, not the manufacturer's. There is no such statement on the http://aeotec.com/z-wave-repeater'>AeonLabs web site.

No matter what I did including trying a high-gain antenna, communication to a Schlage lock was undependable. Installing a Gen 5 siren in place of the repeater made communication fully reliable. Edit: I used the L-com HG905RD 900 MHz antenna.

If the wireless devices are in the garage, then you can be assured that a range extender or other dual-band device will work. In any case, a dual-band device in the garage should work. That the AFI breaker is on a different circuit rules it out as a problem.

Happy to hear

In the scene with: stairs as controller KPL home as responder select the "stairs as controller" device. What is the On Level for the "KPL home as responder?" Edit: don't select the scene, select the device within the scene.

Select the scene. Within the scene select the controller (red). Set the On Level of the button to 0 (zero).