stusviews

fryfrog, you are correct. The Mini Remote always flashes green for On and red for Off. Each the 4- and 8-button Mini Remotes can be put in any one of three modes; 4-button where the left side is Off and the right is On, 8-button where each button toggles Off and On and 8-buttonwhere each button is On-only. A difference is how the buttons are marked. The 4-buuton has a down carat on the left of each button and an up carat plus a through d on the right. The 8-button buttons are labelled a through h. Edit: The ISY handles the button in the same manner as keypad buttons.

Yes, that's the device. But, you're unlikely to notice much difference. The coupler simply increases reliability when transmitting an Insteon across opposite legs of center-tapped, single-phase electric supply. RF reliability fluctuates. You'd have to transmit a signal during a specific unknown instant.

You can use a program with any version of the ISY to control Z-Wave devices with Insteon commands or have Z-Wave commands control Insteon devices.

They're also available as 4- and 8-button devices. The Mini Remotes do need charging every few months or so.

The hard-wired phase coupler, which bridges the opposite legs of the center-tapped, single-phase electric supply ensures that most of the Insteon signal remains within the building. That's because Insteon signals, like virtually everything else on the powerline, travels in all direction including toward the source (i.e., distribution transformer─the large gray cylinder-like object on the telephone pole). The hard-wired phase coupler transfers Insteon signals to the opposite leg at the panel. RF coupling is easier to achieve, but RF coupling between opposite legs is more easily interrupted than is hard-wired coupling. The hard-wired coupler has no RF ability nor does it repeat Insteon signals. The purpose of the hard-wired coupler is bridging, nothing else. Powerline signal suckers and signal stompers would have to overrun your whole house before they interrupted the coupling that a hard-wired device provides.

I do have that taken care of with a RAD post mounted sensor connected to a Micro Module. Your scene needs to fit your needs

Knowledge keeps fingers fit

Non-Insteon, non-ISY solutions are sometimes the best automation solution. Those devices make me want to buy a shop-vac and compressor

This 60 amp relay can be used for 110/120VAC devices: http://www.smarthome.com/elk-heavy-duty-relay-contactor-in-a-lockable-metal-structured-wiring-panel-enclosure.html

Port 80 is the default port for HTTP and should never be forwarded (opened to the 'net) or anyone would have access to your computer. Port 80 is safe to use on your LAN and, as 80 is the default port, does not need to be specified.

Load sensing: If the Insteon device is off and the load is switched from off to on, then the Insteon device turns on. That's all load sensing does. Here's what else can occur: If the Insteon device is on and the load is switched from off to on, then there is no response from the Insteon device because it's already on. If the Insteon device is off and the load is switched from on to off, then there is no response from the Insteon device because it's already off. If the Insteon device is on and the load is switched from off to on, then there is no response from the Insteon device because it's already on. So, load sensing is not a solution!

You could have the SynchroLinc send you an email when the pump turned on and when it turned off.

That's not possible to predict for any Insteon device. But, the SynchroLinc does not control power to the device. It merely responds to there being a particular load or not. I'd like a better understanding of the pump. You indicated that the, "pump runs and cuts off." What cuts off the pump? Both the reason and the mechanism.

AFAIK, version 5 has the ability to restore previous on-levels. But, if you have preset levels rather that using the dim/brighten feature, then you can use programs to restore the brightness setting. Here's an example: I keep the walkway lights at 30% between dusk and dawn. But, if someone rings the doorbell, then the lighting goes to 100%, the front door light turns on and, 5 minutes later, the walkway lighting returns to 30% and the front door light turns off. If Control 'GG / Devices / GG Doorbell-Sensor' is switched On And Status 'EX / Devices / EX Dusk Sensor' is not Off Then Set 'EX / Devices / EX Dusk Sensor' Fast On Set 'EX / Devices / EX Front Door Light' On Wait 5 minutes Set 'EX / Devices / EX Dusk Sensor' 30% Set 'EX / Devices / EX Front Door Light' Off Else Set 'EX / Devices / EX Dusk Sensor' 30% Set 'EX / Devices / EX Front Door Light' Off

The SynchroLinc can handle 15 amps, so you're OK. The synchroLinc has an option to send an Insteon signal when the device turns on (high energy state) and also when the device turns off (low energy state). BTW, your pump is 3/4 hp.

Configuration, Network Settings. There's an HTTP port and an HTTPS port. All ports are internal until you open it. List of Ports to avoid

There are two ports, http and https. Which port(s) did you open?

Usually, if a port utility indicates that the port is not open, then it's not open. Which port utility? Which notes did you follow? How are you attempting off-site access, your WAN address, a DNS service, something else?

A device can be a controller of only one scene, but it can be a responder to hundreds of scenes, responding differently to each. Here's an example. Device A is a controller/responder for scene A. Scene A controls general lighting and turns on device A to an On-level of 50% and a ramp rate of 2 seconds. Device A is a responder to scene A. Scene B controls mood lighting. Scene B turns on device A to an On-level of 50% with a 5 second ramp rate. Device A is a responder to scene B. Scene C controls cleaning lighting. Scene C turns on device A to 100% with the fastest ramp rate. Device A is a responder to scene C. Scene D is a night time controller. Scene D turns off device A. Device A is a responder to scene D. Each scene requires its own controller. BTW, a scene can have hundreds of controllers.

If the shop vac and air compressor are on a 20 amp circuit breaker, then you should use a 20 amp controller. But, if they're on a 15 amp breaker, then a 20 amp controller is unnecessary.

Did you try a different power supply? The ISY requires 5V, 300 mA minimum, so nearly any USB power supply will work.

Solid green indicates that the condition(s) evaluated as true and the Then statements are being executed. Solid red indicates that the condition(s) evaluated as false and the Else statements are being executed.

Also try a different power supply.

You can also click the [a z] symbol (top, left) to sort w/o closing and restarting.

A device can be a controller of only one scene. You already have have a switch that controls another switch. If you also want it to turn off all the lights downstairs then it would turn them on, too. Most likely, you want it turn off the downstairs lights only, but not on. If so, then use a program., not a scene.