stusviews

Thx for the update

A workaround is to use a second program to disable the first for a few seconds.

I get a similar readout at level 1 of the event viewer. A query of either Coot Ctl or Heat Ctl gives no result in the Current State box. But programs run as they should. Here's a couple of programs, one triggered by status and one by control: Fans-Front If Status 'LR / Devices / LR Thermostat Main / LR Thermostat Cool Ctl' is On Then Set Scene 'LR / Scenes / LR Ceiling Fan' On Set Scene 'CR / Scenes / CR Fan-Low' On Set Scene 'MR / Scenes / MR Fan' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') LR HVAC On If Control 'LR / Devices / LR Thermostat Main / LR Thermostat Cool Ctl' is switched On Or Control 'LR / Devices / LR Thermostat Main / LR Thermostat Heat Ctl' is switched On Then Set 'BR / Devices / LR HVAC Indicator' On Else Set 'BR / Devices / LR HVAC Indicator' Off

Non-line powered devices don't always report their status. I have several programs that depend on the state of our 2441TH thermostats. The programs run successfully every time. I also have some 2441ZTH thermostats that control the wired ones, but no programs that depend on the wireless thermostat's state.

The PLM I received from Amazon (months ago) is V2 with 9E firmware. AFAIK, the PLM does not solve the ALL ON problem. That's been addressed by removing the command from Insteon devices. It's been awhile since I've experienced an ALL ON (with the new PLM), but my newest devices were not affected.

The SynchoLinc does not have an out-of-box configuration. The SynchroLinc must be calibrated for each situation as described in the on-line Owner's Manual. You are also missing the three values for the options I asked about.

The SynchroLinc has three options? What is each set at?

It doesn't make sense to, "turn on a scene to 50%." If a member is set to 100%, then the device will be set to 50%. Not a problem. But, what if the scene member is as 40%. Should it go to 50% or 20%. And what about a device that's set to off? Half-off or half-on

Typographical error (typo): Put the other controller in Learn Mode. Refer to the user guid for your product on how to do this. Put the other controller in Learn Mode. Refer to the user guide for your product on how to do this.

Thus, the reason for I2CS. Thanks, Lee

The cans linked to are dimmable, but the OP indicated, "Not sure if this is the exact model but very similar." Similar, in this case, is meaningless. One digit/letter difference could mean an entirely different product.

Lee, This is a BuzzLinc

It's been more that half a century since ground wires were required. I'm not sure what you mean by, "mixed up the ground and neutrals on each of the buss bars." There should be only one buss bar. There's also a concern about "it lacked a ground." What lacked a ground? Do you have metal boxes?

Try one halogen (or incandescent) bulb along with the other three being LEDs. Did that help?

An ISY 99i is somewhat old. It does not recognize most newer Insteon devices. You might want to consider upgrading.

There's an Insteon device that interfaces with MI locks.

A phase-coupler that bridges the opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply for X10 is effective for Insteon as well. Active couplers, however, mess up Insteon signals. The SignaLinc 4816A2 is a passive coupler and does not interfere with Insteon, so you can leave it in place. However, needing to plug the Mini Controller into a particular outlet indicates, as you've surmised, that bridging has not occurred or that you have powerline interference. As a test. move the PLM to it's original location (you can just use an extension cord). Does X10 communication improve?

I've seen this boast a few times from various posters on various forums, "I will be presenting my research, and releasing tools demonstrating the vulnerabilities throughout the Insteon home automation system," but not yet any evidence of any presentation.

That indicates that the 2635 can communicate with the 2477S. What's the result if you initiate the test from the 2477S?

Bypassing the switch forgoes the ability to test, as indicated by Teken. Some of our fans had short chains with decorative attachment (piece of chain + knob). I removed the decorative part. On other fans, I tucked the chain in or on top so it wasn't easily seen or seen at all. Stored above the glass, as larryflix suggested works, too.

Every hard-wired smoke detector should have a battery backup. Otherwise it would not function if the cause of the fire was wiring.

The 4-tap test requires observing at least two devices. One is the device where you initiate the test, the one that you tap four times. The blinking on that device is only to ensure that the device is in testing mode. Nothing else can be concluded. The next step is to observe a different dual-band device to determine if the second device 1. can "hear" the first device and 2. is on the opposite leg of the split, single-phase electric supply. The Owner's Manual for the second device should indicate what to expect. Colors vary as well as blinking or solid LED.

Until all the wires are correctly identified. any suggestion is speculative. There's not much sense in giving you half a dozen possible causes when only one or none of the guesses is correct. The end game is to get everything wired correctly and only then to find a cause ─ if the flickering continues.

Does that mean that ceiling box 4 has a 3-wire cable going to a switch box (is it switch box 1?) and a 2-wire cable going to ceiling box 3? Did you use a meter at ceiling box 4 to verify 110/120VAC between the line and neutral and between the line and ground with absolutely no other wires connected to the black and white wires from the "panel." Not even the wires from the 3-wire cable (with the unused red wire)? Until the source (line and neutral) is positively identified, any wiring suggestion is speculative.The diagram shows many possibilities. Also, label each switch box, 1 and 2 or A and B or any other specific identifier. As it is, each switch has an identical label.

Just connecting a dual-band device is not sufficient to ensure coupling. What is the result of the beacon/4-tap test? It's also possible that something on the same circuit as the problem device is impeding the Insteon signal.