stusviews

Good catch, yes I meant "that goes to switch box #2." The first switch is not bypassed. The change in wiring reverses the roles of the primary (wired to the load) switch and secondary (not wired to the load) switch.

At switch box#1: Connect the SwitchLinc load (red) wire to the red wire that goes to switch box #1. At switch box #2: Disconnect the SwitchLinc load (red) wire and cap it. Connect the red wire from switch box #1 to the black wire that goes to the fixture. What is the result?

That's a page from the manual. It's not your actual wiring. Describe all the wires in each switch box, for example, a cable with black, red and white and two cables with black and white. etc. You can disregard any ground wires. I may ask you to temporarily change some connections as a test.

"As per the manual," is not descriptive enough. Describe the actual wiring at each switch box as well as the wiring for each SwitchLinc. Also, ensure that all connections are tight.

How old are the devices that failed? BTW, if the, "expensive lawn timer controller," is an EZFlora, then that's not an Insteon product. The EZFlora is an Insteon compatible product made by a different manufacturer.

A program is true if any one of its OR conditions are true (or all of its AND conditions are true). A program runs only if its triggered. Your program has several OR conditions. Each Control is a trigger. Are the variables integer or state variables?

That's unusual. OTOH, most Insteon devices have a 2 year warranty, so if they die quickly, then there's a no-cost replacement available. But, if that's what you're experiencing, then I agree with Techman, a whole house surge suppressor is needed.

Do you mean the variety of devices (Insteon beats them all) or the variety of manufacturers (Insteon has only one)?

According to this post v92 dates back to 2010.

Tools, Diagnostics, PLM Info/Status You can restore remotely, but if the PLM is failing, you may not be successful.

Hi Todd, Just to be sure, specify the revision. What is the result if you open the HTML interface only (i.e., using the IP address)?

The tamper-resistant duplex receptacles have a firm grip. Along with cable ties you'll have a dual-band device

Bottom Left, below the message pane.

Select More Reply Options, Attach File

The program is disabled as soon as the disabling statement is executed.

If a program is disabled, then it ceases to run until such time as another program enables if or if it's manually enabled.

Program 1 If Control 'Motion Sensor' is switched On Then Send Notification to 'me' Run Program 'Program 2' (Then Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Program 2 If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then Disable Program 'Program 1' Wait 1 minute Enable Program 'Program 1' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Here's a list of IRIS supported devices and the protocol used.

IRIS is compatible with ZigBee, Z-Wave and WiFi. AFAIK, Sylvania Ultra IQ bulbs are ZigBee compatible.

You can copy the programs you think you'll need one-at-a-time (i.e., Copy to Clipboard).

Holdoff is the duration that must occur before a change is responded to. The recommended minimum value is 1.5 sec, but it can be adjusted from 0.5 to 38.25 sec. I use 1.5 seconds for our subwoofers. Hysteresis is the minimum change that must occur before the SynchroLinc changes state. The range 0.5 to 127.5 watts. The recommended minimum value is 1.5 watts. I chose 10% of the trigger threshold.

Which X10 module? How are you trying to control it? Do you have any other X10 modules? If so, can you control them?

There are at least four different ways to cable two 3-way switches and one 4-way switch. Each has a different Insteon solution. For example, in Diagram 1 (above), neither the middle nor the last switch nor the fixture has a line wire. In Diagram 2, none of the switch boxes have a neutral. In both diagrams, the last box has one 2-wire cable and one 3-wire cable, so viewing only that box is insufficient. If everything works as expected, there's no need to go any further. But, the OP indicated that everything is not working as expected. BTW, the schematic is constant, only the cabling varies (i.e., which of the four boxes has the source-both line and neutral).

Did you delete any older versions. Java has a tool that will do that.

Yes, describing the how many of each color is often all I need. I have nearly two decades of hands on wiring experience. There's a few ways 4-way switches can be properly wired. When something doesn't work as expected, I won't guess. Here's just two ways: