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You can also try disabling the switch.

The scene should change the button concurrently, but try changing If Status 'KPL Front Door - KPL - B' is Off Or Status 'KPL Back Door - KPL - B' is Off to If Status 'KPL Front Door - KPL - B' is Off And Status 'KPL Back Door - KPL - B' is Off

Do you have the PLM plugged directly into the wall duplex receptacle? Do you have any other Insteon devices? Try bringing the sensor closer to the PLM.

The smarthome website is certainly working now.

Are you adding by discovery, Insteon ID or the Link Management tab? Are you putting the sensor in linking mode first.

shannong, this is a 3-device KPL. The top and bottom buttons control the wire load, the middle two (large) buttons each toggle a linked load. I used a 6-device KPL and "linked" button A&B and C&D. Or you could have two On-only and two Off-only buttons. Currently, the only device that controls more than one load is the On/Off Outlet.

Tools, Diagnostics, Show PLM Links Table

Welcome to the forum. The Leak Sensor is a battery powered device. Battery powered devices go to sleep when not broadcasting, for example, a leak, in order to conserve the battery. Put the Leak Sensor in linking mode before adding it. Better yet, click on Link Management.

It's allowable to use a variable as a condition for the program(s) in a folder to run.

A variable is not needed IF Control 'Keypad Button" is switched ON THEN Wait hours minutes seconds enable away program ELSE disable away program But, if you want one, then IF Control 'Keypad Button" is switched ON THEN Wait hours minutes seconds Set state variable to x ELSE Set state variable to y Away program IF state variable is x

If you are testing for the value of a variable and are using something else as a trigger, then use an integer variable. If you want the program to run any time the variable changes to (or from) a particular value, then use a state variable. IF control device is turned on and integer variable is value THEN do this IF state variable is value THEN do this

Similar experience regarding supplied batteries, but only with those I received during the last 8-10 months.

You do not need to use or pay for the router from AT&T. I use a Netgear router and AT&T is the provider.

As I mentioned, off-site access does not differ between the 99 and the 994. And, as indicated by Teken, newer devices are not supported by the 99. So, you have a reason to stay (with what you have) and a reason to go (for an updated ISY). In any case, you'll need a service for off-site access (or a costly static IP address). I don't have a recommendation for a free service.

The updated firmware has more features. But it won't make off-site access any easier. What is your specific difficulty with off-site access?

According to the Owner's Manual the error blink can be turned off using software, but even HouseLinc doesn't offer that option.

Toggles are even easier, but not as decorous as a paddle which, BTW, are often called Decora, a name trademarked by Leviton. But, if there's a need/desire to control multiple devices from a single-gang box, then only a KeypadLinc will do.

Correct wiring has not yet been verified at both ends.

I never said anything about switching the wires. It does matter which wire is connected to C and which to R. My reference was to using the term "return" for the red wire. Each "system" uses colors and words differently. For example, in line voltage, white is considered neutral and the line is black, but in DC circuits black is the common or ground. And in thermostats, the common wire is usually blue. But it's not the same common as line voltage where the neutral is also referred to as "common." It comes down to common usage

That's part of the flexibility. Install the device that best fit's the situation. If the tyke prefers a paddle, give the tyke a paddle

Thermostat terminology is different. Common is actually considered the source. From there to the devices (i.e,., furnace, compressor, fan), then to thermostat and finally return (red) back to the source.

Put the button on the bottom.

We prefer the control a Keypad provides. Each room's device depends on the switch box (except the BR we added) and what is automated. Every paddle and button is labelled, color diffusers help, also. A example involving two adjacent rooms: The kitchen has two entries, one end has a paddle in the kitchen, the other end has an 8-button KeypadLinc which is in the adjacent room. That room is where the computers are because it's a corner with two views. That particular area opens into the living room with no wall between. From that Keypad, we have control of: A: LR light B: this area light C: LR torchiere 1 D: Kitchen light E: LR torchiere 2 F: Dining room light (on other side of kitchen) G: LR window AC (we don't always need the front zone on) H: this area ceiling fan (blue diffuser) IMO, there is no, "that's better." My preference for Insteon was influenced by its flexibility. Others use, not choose, what I've set up. Well, OK--the WAF matters

2-device KPL Method 1: 6-button mode Top On. Bottom Off--load 1 A & B non-toggle ON, C & D non-toggle OFF--load 2 Method 2: 8-button mode A & B non-toggle ON, C & D non-toggle OFF--load 1 E & F non-toggle ON, G & H non-toggle OFF--load 2 load 2 is a secondary device

A 4-button KPL can control 3 or 4 devices, see #4