stusviews

416to305, your experience indicates the you (your devices) have not adequately bridged the opposite legs of the split, single-phase electric supply. A Range Extender or two should solve the problem and allow you to install the PLM in its original or any other convenient location.

Correct, 100% and On/Off have no level suffix. 8-button KPL BR Lamp KPLA BR LampB Fan BR LampC Art Wall BR LampD Wet Bar BR LampE Torchiere BR LampF Pato BR LampG Bedtime BR LampH Nighttime Bedtime-bedroom only, Nighttime-whole house except bedroom 6-button KPL EX Garden KPL All EX GrdnA Shed EX GrdnB Stairs EX GrdnC Patio EX GrdnD Grill Motion Sensor IN Rear Hall-Motion IN Rear Hall-Dusk IN Rear Hall-Battery Leak Sensor KT Sink-Dry KT Sink-Heart KT Sink-Wet I/O Linc GG Drive Gate-Sensor GG Drive Gate-Relay Thermostat LR Themostat-Main LR Thermostat-Cool LR Thermostat-Heat The prefixes are especially handy when wiring programs. For example, there are many ceiling lights, but only one IN Front Bath Ceiling.

I precede each device with a two letter description indicating the room that the device is located in. Each rooms devices' are in a folder with the same prefix. Same for the scenes. A number following the device name indicates the On-level for that device. BR Devices BR Art Wall 60 BR Ceiling Primary 50 BR Ceiling Secondary 50 BR Ceiling Fan BR Fireplace . . . Scenes BR Art Wall BR Bedtime . . . CR (Computer Room) DR (Dining Room) EX (Exterior) GG (Garages & Gates) Also IN, KT, LR etc.

I use four programs that depend on the season. This is the first year I'm doing this and need to experiment with the offsets. I chose to start with the dates midway between each equinox and solstice. Here's the current (winter) sunset program: If From 12:01:00AM on 2014/11/06 To 11:59:00PM on 2015/02/02 And Time is Sunset - 15 minutes Then Run Program 'Sunset Lighting' (If) Run Program 'Sunset Shading' (Then Path) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Note: the dates are year/month/day

What is the "two pole" switch" you referred to? A 2-pole switch normally controls a 220/240VAC device or two 110/120VAC circuits. The only Insteon 2-wire switchI'm aware of is the RF only SwitchLinc.

To add the wireless thermostat, click on Start Linking and hold the thermostat's set button for a few seconds. The ISY will acknowledge that it found the thermostat and provide further instructions

Unless a device is battery powered, you don't need to put it in linking mode to add it to a scene. The ISY will take care of that for you.

1. If a single switch controls two lights and there is only a two wire cable at the switch, then only one Micro Module is required to control both lights. 2. As you indicated, you'll have to open the switch box. BTW, devices wired to wall boxes and ceiling boxes must be removable according to the CSA. 3. The 2-wire switch is safe to install. If the load is incorrect, then either the load, the switch or both will cease to function.

If one device is to be capable of controlling one or more other devices 24/7, then a scene is desired. A program is most advantageous when one or more conditions are required; if this, then do that, otherwise do something else (or do nothing).

If you get lazy or the automation bug bites, then remove the fixture, change some connections, install a SwitchLinc or KeypadLinc in the switch box, a Micro Module in the ceiling box, cross-link the devices and reinstall the fixture. No new wires needed.

It is not in compliance with the Canadian Electrical Code (CSA) to run only a neutral. It is also unsafe, especially if the lone neutral is not on the opposite leg of the split, single-phase electric supply . The correct wiring is to run a 3-wire white sheathed cable (black, red, white) between the fixture and the switch.

This is what I was responding to.

If Status 'light' is On And Status 'light' is not Off Then Wait x minutes Set 'light' Off Else If the 'light' is part of a scene, Then set 'scene' Off.

When specifying wiring cable, the ground wire is not counted. That said, Romex is available as 2-wire (black, white), 3-wire (black, red, white) and 4-wire (black, red, blue, white).

The status shows when the temperature changes.

Battery powered devices, even with a power adapter, do not show their state unless activated. If you want temperature to control other devices, then create a scene including those devices and the Cool or Heat Ctl as appropriate. The devices will respond to the set point.

If Status 'button x' is On Then Set Scene 'button scene' On Else Set Scene 'button scene' Off

You can use the wireless thermostat as a stand alone. As with all wireless devices, put it into linking mode to add it.

As LeeG indicated, any N.O. magnetic contact switch will do what you want. http://home-automation.smarthome.com/search?w=magnetic%20contact%20sensors

The LampLinc has a minimum load requirement. If you're using LEDs, that load may be less than the minimum required. Use a triple-tap and plug in a night light to increase the load.

Jumper 5 should be on for ISY control. If jumper 5 is on, then jumpers 1-4 have no effect, on or off. All control is via the ISY. Also, all my sensors allow timing in .5 min. increments down to .5 min.

That's good to know. One program for both dusk and dawn. Thanks.

That's normal behavior for a secondary switch. That's because the second tap on Insteon switches affects only the local load, but that switch does not have a local load. The solutions are to hold the top paddle or to double-tap the top. Although that behavior is not ideal, consider that in any multi-way configuration using standard 3-way for two locations and 4-way switches for more that two locations, only one switch can even be a dimmer.

All seven of my dual-band LampLincs show up as B2457D2.

Good point. Which specific dryer?