stusviews

I have five accounts, actually a main account and four sub-accounts. Echo devices assigned to a specific account control only devices. scenes and/or programs added to that specific account. I can and do have a few devices, scenes and/or programs added to more than one account. In those cases, a command to either Echo device will control that particular device, scene or program.

Is "All Lights" a scene or a program? Which ISY Firmware and UI are you using? Which ISY skill (there are three)?

If you haven't already done so, download and install the Alexa app for a computer, Mac or PC. The smartphone app does not have the ability to "Forget All." Select Smart Home (left panel), select Devices or Scene, it doesn't matter. Scroll to the bottom of the list. That's where you'll find both Discover and Forget All.

Once a spoken is added to Alexa, it remains even if it's deleted from both the portal and the ISY (or either). Unused/deleted/removed/changed spokens need to be manually removed either one-by-one or all-at-once. My preferred method is to forget all and then re-discover. Only the computer app has the ability to forget all.

Yes it does. The address book is used only for placing calls, not receiving them.

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Ha ha. You are absolutely correct. The reason I'm not concerned is because there's an error in the program. It should be: If Status 'GG / Garage2 Control / GG2 ZW028 Binary Sensor' is Off Then Set 'GG / Garage1 Control / GG1 ZW028 Binary Switch' On Wait 2 seconds Set 'GG / Garage1 Control / GG1 ZW028 Binary Switch' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Now corrected. Thanks bunches for catching that.

When creating programs, I consider triggers as either events or devices. What happens usually occurs to devices and/or scenes. There are variations, but I don't consider any of them as things. But how you think is really personal. I don't see how it matters.

I use both concurrently. The main advantage is setting up and/or using Insteon devices that are not fully supported by the ISY, such as the latest motion sensor and the Alert module. But, be careful. Unless you're quite familiar with the Insteon protocol, you may run into the unexpected if the same device is added to both. for example, I use the Hub to set parameters for the motion sensor and, after adding it to the ISY, I delete it from the Hub. I don't see any other advantage. I certainly don't have a need to control the motion sensor from a phone.

The purpose of a Wait is to execute the statements that follow the Wait after the designated interval. You have absolutely no statements following the Wait command, so nothing will execute after interval, not the Else, not anything. In this program, Off is executed after waiting 2 seconds: If Status 'GG / Garage1 Control / GG1 ZW028 Binary Switch' is Off Then Set 'GG / Garage1 Control / GG1 ZW028 Binary Switch' On Wait 2 seconds Set 'GG / Garage1 Control / GG1 ZW028 Binary Switch' Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

The only effect of your wait statement is to wait 20 seconds after the device turns on and then end the program. It will not do anything else. It will not run the Else statements at all. What is your reason for having a Wait?

A very basic test it to right click on the program and select Run Then. Does the device turn on? Does Run Else turn off the device?

Good to learn that you found a solution. It's certainly clear why you didn't show the bottom half of the screen.

Some known statements can't be used. For example, I'm unable to use, "let the sun shine in," or, "here comes the sun," to open the bedroom window coverings.

I don't see anything in the posted article that indicates any smart door lock that's not compatible with Alexa, although I'm sure there a some.

That seems to be the top half of the screen only. Of concern if the bottom. Here's the top and bottom.

If you have any device that displays incoming calls, then you have all the phone service you need. One solution is a voice modem that supports caller ID and the appropriate software. With the advent of cell phones, both are difficult to find at a reasonable price. I'm currently using SuperVoice with a Motorola SM56 Speakerphone modem on a dedicated Windows 7 Professional computer. I also have a bunch of Telnote caller ID displays, available used on eBay. They're somewhat costly. I won't pay more than $100 for one, I try for $80. I currently have 2 extra large red ones (TL 1215), 3 large red ones (TL 1225) and 1 small blue display. These prices are what they cost when new!!! But, I can see who's calling from nearly every room. Also difficult to find are devices that clearly announce the caller. I have 5 CenturyTel Caller ID units and 3 Philips VoiceAnnounce CallerID's. I found the plentiful Emerson Talking Caller ID box inadequate. Finally, I'm also using a couple of Amazon Echo Connect devices-easy to find and it has a reasonable price, $35. Although the Connect indicates that it needs to be connected to a landline (with Caller ID), I find that it also works with my Consumer Cellular Home Phone Base (cell phone service connected to my landline phone).

If your phone service does not support Caller ID, then nothing can make it appear, not even a modem that supports it. I happen to have a two landlines, one with caller ID (provided by the telco, and one that does not, same telco). I also have two identical voice modems. The modem connected to the line with caller ID shows the caller's number. The modem connected to the landline that does not have caller ID does not show the caller's phone number even though the option is set the same on both modems. A search indicates that you can have the caller's ID appear on your TV if you have Spectrum TV and their phone service. OTOH, if Spectrum actually supports caller ID with your VOIP phone line, then there are several options. You may want to check with Spectrum and post back what you find.

When I select the very first line of the scene, the one to the right of the scene icon (three circles in a circle), the particular fan speed is selected, in this case Low. Does yours show that? BTW, I have a KPL and Mini Remote as controllers, also. And I'm using the scene category.

I did verify that I can control the FanLinc (v41). I'm also using firmware and UI version 4.6.2 and the ISY Optimized for Smart Home v3 from UDI , so all that checks out. Too, the scene is exposed as a scene, not a light. The only item I haven't verified is what you are using as a spoken. I'm using fan high, fan medium and fan low, so I state, "Alexa, the the fan high on," or "Alexa, turn on the fan high on" (or medium or low). Are you using something similar? BTW, this is a reminder to me to use a routine-later. The immediate goal is a solution

If you have more than 5 or 6 devices and a couple of KPLs, then 86 PLM links is actually a very low count

There is no documentation about that. Nor is any needed. Links are usually created before voltage is applied or, at least, when there's no voltage applied. Bottom line: not every possible situation is documented for every device.

That depends on the thermostat. Some are more sensitive than others. The minimum gap allowed between heating and cooling determines the change that can be reported, usually a degree or two wider. The Insteon thermostat has a 2º gap, so a bit more is usually need to detect a change. Some thermostats have a 1º gap. I have one non-HA programmable thermostat that is sensitive to an amazing 0.9º. And you are correct about the incessant humidity change reports. That's why I discontinued using Insteon thermostat even though they allowed full control.

That's true. Using the set button requires that there be no input on either sense wire. That's not a flaw nor should it be a problem. Do you have a specific need to use the set button while power is live on a sense wire?

Yes it should, but it usually takes a 2º change or greater, so you programs should have a wider spread. You can't make the thermostat detect a 1º change.