stusviews

If there is more than one way to interpret a feature, and for dimming a scene there is, then which one should be implemented? My limited experience with creating a programming language/protocol, is that there should must be no ambiguity. If there is, then that's called a bug.

I prefer distinguishing types by naming scenes scenes and program programs. I also would rather call a device a device. Too bad routines don't allow that while permitting both On and Off

Something is amiss. You indicated that the dimmers show a 9 minute ramps rate, but take about 10 seconds to ramp up. As I posted, (#2), 9 minutes was to accommodate very early dimmers, but in any but those older devices, should ramp uo at 0.1 seconds. Too, the method you wrote for setting the On-Level is incorrect. It's press (for green), press (for red), then tap (not press) for brightness level (green), adjust, then tap (not press) for save. For ramp rate, it's press (for green), press (for red), then tap (not press) for brightness level (green), tap (for red), adjust, then tap (not press) for save. I'm reasonably sure I got is righet. In any case, consult the Owner's Manual. It's also possible that you're in Resume Dim mode. To automate querying, schedule the nightly QueryAll. But, I'm still perplexed that the ramp rate changes. Try a Factory Reset on one device that you are sure is errant.

That'll work to control a device, but not a scene, except a noted in pose #4.

There's an ideal humidity range (you can search for that, ambient temperature as well as health issues are involved). A realistic goal is to adjust the humidity to maintain within a range, not to be at any particular point. Doing otherwise will probably drive your humidifier and dehumidifier bats, with no health or comfort benefits. I doubt that a 1% change in humidity will alter your comfort level, but I really don't know your sensitivity

Which Alexa group, the smartphone app or the computer app? In any case, the Insteon protcol does not allow setting the brightness of a scene, because the meaning is ambiguous. There are differing opinions of what adjusting a scene (not device) brightness means, but opinions do not resolve ambiguity. I have no difficulty adjusting a scene using the Alexa computer app group that includes the scene and devices involved, but that results in only one interpretation. Fortunately, it's the one I prefer If you normally use only two or three levels, then the easiest method is two or three scenes. That's not unlike fan speeds.

You don't need a program for each case in your range. You can set a range: Within the range If Status 'Your Thermostat' >= 45% (Humidity) And Status 'Your Thermostat' <= 55% (Humidity) Then - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Outside the range If Status 'Your Thermostat' <= 45% (Humidity) Or Status 'Your Thermostat' >= 55% (Humidity) Then - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') There are more possibilities driven by your specific needs.

If Status 'your thermostat' [is, is not, <, >, <=, >=] [1º to 122º (Temperature)] [0% t0 100% (Humidity)], many more options available Then

The real reason most hospitals (and many recording studios) have the ground on top: less likely to lose power if someone steps on the powercord.

PLMs, like many other devices, seem to show signs of age. This is consistent with the common repair, replacing capacitors. Capacitors age, especially those involved with power.

Baird Brothers seems to have a pick-your-thick selection

My local HD stocks mostly 9/16" baseboard and some 11/16", all sold in 12' lengths. OTOH, I go for quality baseboard sold in lengths of up to 20', so rarely a seam.

Like this: EX Side Door Sensor [Not Enabled] If Control 'EX / Devices / EX Side Door-Sensor' is switched On Then Set 'EX / Devices / EX Side Door-Sensor' Write Device Updates Wait 4 minutes Disable Program 'EX Side Door Sensor' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Consider it done--because it is. Thanks.

That's usually an indication of a communication difficulty. As a start, use a long extension cord to power the ISY from a distant circuit. While the ISY is unplugged make note of the 4-digit date code on a white sticker (back of PLM). What's the code?

Individual buttons can be set to toggle, non-toggle on or non-toggle off. But, you cannot adjust the brightness of only one button on a KPL. All buttons are equally affected except as described in post #5 for the On/Off button pair on a 6-button KPL.

A bit of history: The earliest duplex receptacles were installed in the baseboard, dictating their horizontal orientation and also their original name, "baseboard outlets." Vertical mounting became popular with the advent of drywall, making them easy to attach to a wall stud.

Here's a typical program: EX Side Door Sensor [Not Enabled] <--saves battery life, enabled as needed If Control 'EX / Devices / EX Side Door-Sensor' is switched On Then Set 'EX / Devices / EX Side Door-Sensor' Write Device Updates Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

From the respective manuals: Z-Wave MimoLite: -10⁰C (14F) to +70⁰C (158F) Insteon I/O Linc: 32 to 104°,

Which thermostat? Also, I'm not sure what you mean by a, "variable is only internal." There are state variables and integer variables. (Do you know the difference?) Virtually anything (i.e., device, program) can be used to set and/or change the value of the variable.

If your walls are white, then Ghost Wire may be easy to conceal.

Baseboards are optional. So are shoes, but a 2 x 4 is not 2 x 4 and hasn't been for decades

Changing the brightness of the LEDs affects all the buttons. If you just want the Off button LED of a 6-button KeypadLinc to remain off, then you can do that manually. Press and hold the Off button until it beeps and starts blinking. Release. Press and hold the Off button a second time until the KPL beeps, about 3-5 seconds. Finally, press and hold the Off button a third time until the KPL beeps and the blinking stops. Press the On button, the load will turn on and the On button LED will be lit. Press the Off button, the load will turn off and the Off button LED will be unlit.

Why not mount the controllers near the garage floor? It was not difficult for me to supply power and low voltage wire to that area. Plus, I gained the bonus of an outlet near the front of the garage

Whether or not a shoe is installed is usually a matter of what's common in that particular area. Sometimes it's dependent on the era, that is, what was common at time the flooring was installed. It definitely costs more. Edit: spelling error corrected.

Except for generating traffic, the ISY will do nothing whenever any setting on the thermostat is changed unless the ISY programmed to respond. Loss of communication between the ISY and the thermostat will do nothing unless the ISY is programmed or scheduled to do something during the loss period. Neither will automatically "catch-up." If the thermostat loses power, it will remain in the last state until and/or unless there's a new schedule or program command that occurs after power is resumed. All programmable thermostats are programmable locally. Some are programmable remotely, too. As a precaution, all my thermostats have always been programmed locally. Remote control overrides those settings and can be done on-the-go, as required.