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stusviews

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Everything posted by stusviews

  1. Moshe, Have you added any Insteon device to the Alexa app or is the SwitchLinc the first and only Insteon device, so far? And are you still on ISY skill v.2?
  2. That's somewhat different from what you posted on the other forum. You're a bit clearer now. So, the same question, did you install the Sonos skill? And which of the two devices you mentioned is the one device that you are unable to discover? Is it the Sonos or is it the switch
  3. I'm confused. You indicated that you, "added one device in the ISY portal and linked "ISY Optimized for Smart Home V2" with Alexa. I have also tried V3 but I am still unable to discover the one device in the portal." emphasis added But you list two devices. Also, you mention both online and registered. Devices don't show that, the portal does which is what I asked about. Do you have two portal accounts? Also, did you add the Sonos skill? In any case, I suggest that you update to ISY v3. You'll need to forget all devices first, disable v2, enable v3 and then discover devices-in that specific order.
  4. Troubleshooting begins with specifics. Which device did you add to the portal? What spoken did you assign? Which skill are you using? But first, select Configuration, Portals. Does it show Online and Registered?
  5. stusviews

    Keypad buttons

    The only way to control the LED in a secondary button is to place it in a scene and then control the scene. The scene can, optionally, have other members. Back light level controls the On and Off brightness for all buttons concurrently.
  6. That depends on what the scene does. Although you can turn a scene on or off, the scene does not have a status. For example, a scene can be created that turns one device on and the others off. You'd have to check the status of the one device. Or the scene can turn all members of that scene off when On is selected (Off will also turn the devices off). What is the status of that scene when it's turned On?
  7. I've, on occasion, had to re-create an aberrant program to get it to work correctly. Create a copy. Uncheck the original program's Enabled box before doing anything else. Re-name the original and the copy (optional). Delete all Then statements except the first from the new program (the copy). If that works, then add another (or two) scene each day. Troubleshooting is often tedious. Modifying the original as a shortcut usually won't work.
  8. Neither Control nor Status works with scenes in v4+. I don't know at all about v5+
  9. Were you using a browser (not the best way) or the ISY finder (best procedure)? If the former, do you use Windows? If the latter, what's the result you are getting?
  10. You can accomplish what you want using one program. That's a cleaner approach. Add the statement in blue below to get Else to run when button E is pressed off: If Control '.Fam Rm Rem - E (Movie Time)' is switched On And Control '.Fam Rm Rem - E (Movie Time)' is not switched Off
  11. Sometimes a wait is necessary, sometimes it's more a convenience. In any case, the goal is to not let the wait cause an unexpected result.
  12. Two programs, with the wait in the second program instead of the first, is the usual solution. That's because if something occurs during the wait that causes the first program to evaluate as false, then the second program won't be affected--it will continue to run.
  13. Have you tried pinlawr's suggestion? If not, then give it a shot
  14. There's always room above and below devices to run the wires carefully. Also each side is available. If you trim the wires somewhat and remove enough insulation to tightly twist the wires together to enable a smaller wirenut after trimming the twisted wires and folding them neatly into place, then you should be able to fit Insteon switches. If you absolutely can't fit all four devices, then you can replace one or more switches with KPLs and add a Micro Module at the load box, as needed Just don't cut the now unused load wires too short so they can't be used in the future. You can save additional room by taping over the unused ends instead of capping them and also not connecting them at the other end. Tape there too, for safety.
  15. Wires have two ends. That two wires connect between a switch an the I/O Linc describes both end of one pair. That two control the fireplace valve doesn't.
  16. The 3-way configuration I proposed will function as 3-way switches do because it is a 3-way configuration. If the wall switch is momentary, then an even easier solution is possible requiring only two wires between the I/O Linc and the wall switch. ISY control is easy, swap/flip the current state of the I/O Linc the reverse the current state of the fireplace exactly how a 3-way configuration functions. That will allow the OP to control (turn on, turn off) the fireplace from the wall switch or the ISY. OTOH, I agree, voice control is a bit more complex, a smartphone and programs are needed.
  17. Why 4 wires?
  18. You will need a way to run three wires between the switch box and the I/O Linc. Neatest, but most difficult, is to replace the existing wiring (2-wire cable) between the switch box and the fireplace and plugging the I/O Linc in under the fireplace. But, it's feasible to follow kingwr's suggestion to use low voltage cable (e.g., thermostat wire) between the switch box and the I/O Linc and plug in the I/O Linc at a convenient outlet. In either case you'll need to replace the existing switch with a standard 3-way switch. Connect the black wire (TH) to the 3-way switch black screw. Connect the white wire (TPTH) to the COM terminal on the I/O Linc. Connect a wire from one brass terminal on the 3-way switch to N/O on the I/O Linc. Connect a separate wire from the other brass terminal on the three way switch to N/C on the I/O Linc. The wall switch and I/O Linc will now function as a conventional 3-way switch configuration. Note that a standard 3-way switch does not have ON/OFF markings. Just flip the switch to turn the load on of it's off or off if it's on. Do the same with the ISY and the I/O Linc, that is, just "flip" the relay to its opposite state. One more item, set the I/O Linc to latching
  19. Are the black and white wires like standard in wall wiring (i.e., 14AWG (or 12AWG) or are they the same as those shown in post #19 (most likely). Can you read the letters on those terminals? And yes, you can have both (one or the other) the wall switch and the ISY (plus voice, if you have the portal) control your fireplace.
  20. If you're using Windows, click on Cortana and search for ISY. Right click for a Menu. Select "Open file location" if you want th drag an icon to your desktop and/or Pin to Start to place an icon at the bottom, left of you're screen. I do both.
  21. Are the two Google Home devices within earshot of each other at a "normal" voice level?
  22. Nice find, but it appears to be WiFi or smartphone controlled, not ISY compatible (unless it's WiFi and codes are supplied plus the need for a network module or other gear such as RasberryPi).
  23. Describe your specific application in some detail.
  24. The tiny writing is nice, but difficult to read, so some, like me won't spend the effort to read lengthy, tiny text. Others, like you, are OK with tiny text, but I'll bet you want to reach out to all.
  25. that's not good. Try a few more times. If the count remains low, then that's a sign of a failing PLM. Each device has at least one link. If there's more than one mode, then each mode has a link (e.g., KPL). If a device is both a controller and responder, as most are, then that's at least two links. Responds to more than one device, more links; controls more than one device, more links. And you have 300 or more devices.
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