rlanza1054

Hi, I've been looking around for instructions on setting up the ISY so I can send commands to the Global Cache iTach WF2IR unit I just purchased. I want to send a Power On/Off (Piwer Toggle command) to my Air Conditioner. I believe I have the codes leaned via iLearn that comes with the iYTach. Plus I think I also have the CCF codes that I downloaded. I have another device that works talking to the iTach. I just am looking for instructions on how to get the ISY to talk to the iTach. Can you point me to the place wherer you got your instructions. I am assuming I need the Network Module installed to make this work? Or is having the ISY Helper good enough to use as well? Thank you! Rob

Maybe I made a mistake in purchasing the Global Cache Itach WF2IR. Because it was my understanding from reading some stuff that to learn my Frigidaire Air Conditioner the Insteon IR transmitter had trouble learning those particular codes. I did get the iTach and am playing around with it. The iLearn software is easy to use to record codes. But after talking with support, I learned that these learned codes are stored in a plain text file; which is editable, I've even looked at the file it creates and the codes it store. However, the unit does not store the codes internally as I thought. Support said the software I end up using will read this file of codes and then transmit the codes to the iTach via internet (wifi). I had also purchased a Anymote Home and setup using the AnyMote software for Android. The AnyMote can transmit to a Global Cache unit. And I tested that although I didn't need my learned codes since AnyMote's database already had the Frigidaire AC in its list. I test sending but never tested with an IR Blaster plugged into the 3 ports on the iTech. Incidentally, this iTech is so small, you might say its cute looking. Like a Smurf. I don't know why that even entered my head. LOL! So it might be easier to setup and use the Insteon IR Transmitter since the ISY994 can link to it just like all the other Insteon modules. Now I will have to do more work to get the ISY994 to talk to the ITech. I might just try and purchase the Insteon IR Transmitter in the end. I do the my Harmony and Amazon working with the ISY994, I just wish at this point the ISY994 could send a command to the Harmony. Right now the talking is in one direction. The Harmony can talk to the ISY via IR but the ISY can't talk to the Harmony. Unless the Harmony can listen to commands via Z-Wave? Or maybe the ISY can send a command via IFTTT to the Amazon and then the Amazon send the command to the Harmony. These devices need to be two-way but I guess we are not there yet. I have put that much time into this because of taking care of other things in my life, but I will gert there at some point. And I thank everyone for their help. Rob

Hi all, I would like the ISY994 to be able to control some IR devices. I have talked about wanting to control a few devices via IR Transmit (my ISY994IPro with iR only receives IR commands), specifically my Frigidaire Air Conditioners. I was told that these air conditioners use a not so standard IR scheme which some IR Transmit devices can record the IR code correctly. I think I read that the Global Cache can do this. So I figured that I might try to invest in one to try it out. But after looking (nothing is eer easy) Global Cache makes more than a few models. The one that interests me the most is the wireless version (which would make it easier for placement in the room. that model is the 'Global Cache WF2IR iTach Wi-Fi to IR'. However I noticed this as well: 'Global Cache iTach Flex Wi-Fi (Flex-WF)' Which of these two models would be the best to use and the easiest to setup? I do realize that I have to some how manage to either import the Air Conditioner remote codes or put the Global Cache devices into learn mode and teach it the codes. Thank you for your help. Rob PS As some of you know I already own Harmony Hubs and Remotes and also two Amazon Echo's, one regular Echo and one Echo DOT. My issue with the Harmony integration is that right now you can only control 'Activities' (those that own Harmony's know what I am talking about), it does not allow for control of one single command from one particular 'device'. Hopefully this will change at some point. I know there are workarounds using multiple Activities but it make it so complicated because the Harmony likes to shut off devices when switching Activities. And I know about overriding those Power issues. But its like fitting a round circle into a square box, ou can make it work but its not realy the best. I also invested in a Anymote Home IR but that requires having your Smartphone be near enough to control it. That they say can send individual device commands to the Echo but I haven't played with it. It also says it can intergrate with Insteon and Z-Wave, but I think they are talking about the Insteon Hub. I do not see Universal Devices ISY994 as listing as one of the devices it supports. But the developers says if they contact him, he would add the ISY994. Maybe UDI can contact him his email address is: colortigerapps2gmail.com Their webpage is: www.anymote.io I also have one my list of things to try is the Raspberry Pi device and setup. I purchased everything needed but haven't had the time to set it ip and learn it. And now I'm thinking the Global Cache products might be the easiest thing to get going. I just need to verify which model to get!

I noticed the POP and I believe its created when the DOT is connecting to or disconnecting from external Bluetooth Speakers or when its switching from external Line Input to Bluetooth. Otherwise,I don't hear the POP. I think its just those relays when switching audio connections. I just got one of the two I ordered today! I thought it did not come with any internal speaker, its nice that it did even though it too low for any real usage. I guess they put a tiny one in just to aid you in setting up unit. I'm just hoping that giving a command to the regular Echo does not trigger the DOT in another room. When I had the two units next to each other during setup, after the DOT was setup it responded to my commands as well as the regular Echo almost in unison! It was funny! I haven't moved the DOT to the bedroom yet. So I guess my command to 'Turn on TV' needs to be adjusted otherwise it will end up turning on both TV's, maybe! I'll fix it by changing command to Livingroom TV and Bedroom TV. Oh sorry, its also linked to Harmony Remotes. Rob

I found a way to order the echo from a cnet website article. It never occurred to me to at least order two, for the two rooms I am always in. http://www.cnet.com/how-to/how-to-order-an-amazon-echo-dot-without-an-amazon-echo/ But I'm concerned that if I actually get one ; it was ordered a 'pre-order'! There is talk here and elsewhere that if I actually receive the ordered one, it won't setup because its looking for the original Echo or some other Amazon device? Is that a possibility? Thanks! Rob

Hi, I read a little about ISY Portal and the new IFTTT that can be used if you want access and are not using the Amazon Echo. I did most of the setup ok. Created the IFTTT account, registered the ISY Portal and activated it in the admin console. Everything seems to be set correctly. In my.isy under tools, i select tool 'connectivity' I choose IFTTT and then I get a dialog box that is saying something to the effect of: ISY skill not link to your echo profile. And when I close that error message I am getting a window titled 'IFTTT inbound events' So to me I think I've gotten pretty far in getting it to work. I clicked on the ? for help and its saying that I need to use the 'Maker Channel'. So where do I learn about doing that function. I'm actually posting this message to request that some simple video instructions be made for us that are not as trained in doing this. Can some of you that already got this working make some instructional or tutorial videos on how to make this work and get it posted to YouTube? Or maybe a webinar can be setup for lessons? Thank you. Rob PS I haven't been in the forum for a few months which is a good thing, it means I've gotten all my ISY stuff to work. I actually have boxes of some modules that I haven't gotten to install yet. I was going to play around with the photo electric module. But I broke ,my ankle and wrist on the right side, slipping on black ice while walking Dylan my dog in the park a few days after it snowed at the end of January. They just took off the casts and put me in a soft boot but its so painful to walk, that I spend my days on the couch. Luckily I still have a Home Aid come in a few days a week. And to top everything off, the day I fell on the ice my car was parked in Costco parking lot next to the park. When my friends went to move it back to my house for me (I was in the hospital and then in rehab for about 3 weeks), the car would not move, the transmission had gone. It was the second transmission in my 16year old car that only hand 87000 miles on it. I ended up having it towed out of Costco 2 months after the accident. Costco was nice enough to let me leave it there and not tow it away. Thankfully, my Mom is giving me her car, but its in West Palm Beac FL. So I have to figure out how to best get it to NY. Or wait until I can drive again. But I hate making that trip. Sorry guys for talking about personal stuff.

Hi all, I have a particular problem I'm trying to fix with regards to receiving a text message from the ISY994 to Android (a Samsung Note 4) on the Sprint network. I should state that at one point everything worked as it should but at some point (can't remember when, but think it was when I made some changes on phone) the issue started to happen. First, let me describe how I normal setup my notifications on my phone. Since our smartphones are forever notifying us of particular events happening, the built-in notification sounds do not provide enough information for me to actual know what the reason for being notified. So what I do is make 'custom' notification/ringtone souns. I use a program called 'Talkadroid' which is available at Google's Play Store. I'm sure there is something similar on iOS fo iPhone users. Talkadroid allows me to type in any phrase or sentence and convert that typed text into a notification or ringtone sound. Talkadroid uses Android's built-in Text to Speech voices. I have loaded the English from he United Kindom, because a British voice is so much cooler than the American voice which sounds like your from Brooklyn. Because Android (not sure if iPhone has this feature) allows you to set a custom 'ringtone' and more important to me, a custom 'text message' tone. So for example if I get a text message fom my friend 'Michael', the custom message tone for Micheal plays and it says via voice 'Robert, you just received a text message from Michael' in that British voice. Better yet, when I get a text message from Amazon, the text meesage tone for Amazon is: 'Robert, youjust got a text message from Amazon'. I accomplish this because I created a contact in my address book named Amazon, I added the from number as a phone number, all messages coming from Amazon come from the number '262966'. At least that is the number I see from Amazon. That way when it looks at the 'from' address and its in my contact list and I have setup a custom text message tone, it will play that tone instead of the default message tone, which is also a custom tone. Every application on my phone that does notification and allows for me to change the notification sound, I havemade a custom notification tone. That way when I get notifacation sounds coming frommy phone I know exactly what they are for, no guessing. No remembering all these bult-in tones. Ok, now on to the problem. My tones work correctly for all my incoming text messages and recently the only one that is not working correctly is from the ISY994. And I believe I know the reason, the text message from the ISY994 are no longer coming from a 'number' but an email address? Somehow I made a change on the ISY994 or maybe with one of the ISY994 firmware upgrades, it stopped sending using the number and instead is using the Google eMail address I made for the ISY994 when I have it send alerts to thar particular email address? Does anyone know how to fix? Thank You Rob

I'm ok now!

Hi, I'm running into the same problem. I can't seem to even get into the ISY at all. I haven't done this recent upgrade unless it applied it automatically. I can't gain access from the MobiLinc app as well. The lighting seems to be doing what its supposed to. I am having on light go on when it shouldn't. I have one light that goes on with motion but is no longer getting turned off. I have a motion sensor in the kitchen that keeps telling me to change the battery, but after I chaged the battery the first time it keeps doing it. And I finally tested the batteries and they are all good? Everything was or seemed to be working fine. It just could be that something got changed that I'm not aware of. I managed to bring up the admin console, but it never displays the login window and the admin window is just the blue window, there is no text in the window except for a few labels like system / configuration, etc but everything else is clear with the blue background. I unplugged the isy but only left it unplugged for a few seconds. Could the isy revert to factory defaults? Should I try a reset at the isy. a hard reset? Thank you. Rob I did remove my java.com and reinstalled both the 32 bit version and the 64 bit version. I am running a 64 bit computer but using the 32 bit firefox browser. Any steps you would recommend Thanks Rob

Hi all, Well managed to get the replacement iChime doorbell installed again and its working as it was supposed to and the programs I wrote to flash the lights are working as they should be. For those interested here is what my custom metal housing I made for the transformer and wiring connections to both doorbells looks like! Rob

Hi all, Well, I couldn't sleep all the way through last night. I woke up at 6am, very very early for me. I decided to search about this Crestron company. So here is what I found out: Its considered the cream of the crop, top of the line in Home Automation. And it comes at a very very high cost. I saw that they have a new touch screen remote control, looks a bit like the Harmony Ultimate Touchscreen remote alhtough it looks a lot nicer actually. Take a second and take a seat! Take a guess at the price of this remote control? .....background music is playing the Jeopardy TV Game show final question theme music..... $2400.00 Are they out of there minds! There was someone who got a quote for doing a couple of rooms, here is the price he got quoted: .....background music is playing the Jeopardy TV Game show final question theme music..... $100,000.00 No wonder I've never heard of this company! What I find funny, is that I had told my doctor I've been working on installing my system from this past Spring until the end of the Summer. He was telling me how he like the way he installed his system. I assumed at that time (since at the time I never heard of this company at all) that the doctor installed his system himself. I don't think the doctor understood that I actually installed the system myself, pulling wires myself, programming myself actually you guys here helped me greatly with the programming). I also learned as you guys stated Crestron stated out in the Automation of the Audio/Visual Components, the Entertainment systems. Then they moved into the entire House. What I found interesting is that the reason why people say their systems are so reliable is that there is separate wiring going to the individual modules they sell. It does not use the existing electrical wiring. And only recently added RF, especially for their motion sensor type of modules. And unless I misread the specs on a typical in-wall light dimmer, their modules in standby run using 25watts of power each. Whereas Insteon uses 0.01watts! UPDATE: It requires a mimum of 25watts to operate a light, the light cannot be less than 25 watts. I downloaded the spec sheet and unless I am missing it, they don't list the standby operating power usage. But here is a link to the spec sheet on their dimmer if anyone is interested in looking what it offers: clw-dimex-p.pdf The protocol Crestron uses is proprietary but its called: infiNET EX® 2-way RF, 2.4 GHz ISM Channels 11-26 (2400 to 2483.5 MHz), default channel 15; IEEE 802.15.4 compliant Again,after looking at this, I standby my statement that Apple will never make the back end products like a dimmer switch, it will want to be the front end, which there is already a Crestron app anyway. Wow, I thought I had a cool system with my Insteon and the Crestron stuff does look amazing. But of course, I'm poor, but I have the satisfaction of knowing I did the work myself and don't have to rely on anyone for my system (except for everyone here!). I don't think this doctor understood when I said I programmed my own system, that I programmed it. According to what I read the installer comes in, installs and sets up everything, but then teaches the end user how to make small simple changes. Not the real programming. I also found this product being sold at Smarthome, its a way to intergate Insteon into a Crestron house. Its intended to be used when a property (house) is old and you cannot run new wiring behind the walls. Check out the price to get this intergration! http://www.smarthome.com/artemis-v2-64-device-insteon-controller.html Thanks everyone for explaing it! WOW! Rob

Hi all, I don't think this thread belongs here but could not find a place for it, so moderator please move it if it needs to be moved! I went to the doctor today an we started to both geek out on each other! We talked about our Home Automation systems. He mentioned that he is using a Crestron Home Automation System. I all my searching over the years, I have never heard of Crestron products? Has anyone heard of this type of system/products. What protocol does it use? My doctor is an new Apple fanboy. That's fine with me. He believes that Apple's entry into the Home Automation, that Apple will eventually take over the market and actually make the wall switches (like Insteon, Luttron, Nest). I told him Apple will never make that kind of product, Apple does take on things that might give therm a black eye. Their users will never install switches in large. Apple does really have users that like screw drivers. Sorry to all the Apple fans here, this is not geared to you, if your here you are different from the general mass Apple customer base. Even the Nest is too much for some users. When i told him the limits of Apple's Homekit, he believes it will get better as time goes on and even get into UDI ISY abilities. I told him that Apple will only be the front end, Apple does care about the back end, as long as it rules the front end, it might appear that it owns the Home Automation market but it won't be true if it does own the back end. It will be the magical thinking thing. Remember, people love Apple but don't fully understand that the Macintosh runs on an Intel hardware and an Apple iPhones runs on a Samsung built processor, the same company that competes with Apple with Android phones. The same company builds the inside parts of both the Apple phones and the Android phones. But put all that stuff aside it seems this Crestron stuff works on iOS (iPhones). I'm not sure if it also works on Android but it might. So does anyone know about this Crestron stuff. Here is a link to their website: http://www.crestron.com/ I couldn't figure it out. The products look more upscale than the Insteon stuff but no so much. It looks like it does more of a media automation, much less Home Automation. I couldn't figure out what protocol its using, is it proprietary? Thanks Rob

Sorry, I had gotten sick last week really bad. I got sick the morning I woke up to fly down to Florida to visit my 92 year old Mother. I cancelled the flight, took the loss on the ticket (did get some of it credit back to account). I don't know if I told you all, but I blew up the record-able doorbell. I was cleaning up my temporary wiring to make it more permanent and I must have hooked it up incorrectly and it shorted out the amplifier on the record-able doorbell. Their tech support was nice enough send me a replacement. But it came when I was sick so its still in the box. I decided to make a fancy enclosure for the doorbell transformer and all the wiring connections. I wanted a metal box like an electrical circuit breaker box, but that was too expensive. So one day while shopping at Costco, I purchased a tin of xmas cookies. Yes, those metal tin boxes. I spray paint the red box with White rubberized paint. The stuff you use to paint you car rims with. So the cover and the outside are now white. I drill a large hole in the bottom or you could say the back of the box. I mounted it on the wall in closet; using Velcro, by the front door which is were the doorbell transform had been for years. I purchased a cheap hobbyist breadboard wiring kit. I pulled the wires in from the back,of the tin. I haven't hooked it up yet but labeled all wires using the Brother label printer using the special laminated label paper for wiring. And in the end the cookie tin cover will just seal it up so nobody can disturb the wiring. If you still more info on what doorbell I purchased I will list the link again. But I did post the information here in another thread. The Insteon stuff I used Brian posted above. I am using the ELK-930 which comes with the Insteon I/O Linc Low voltage modules 2450, the two item come with the Smarthome Doorbell (and Telephone) kit. The doorbell was purchased from 1800doorbell.com and its called the iChime. See other thread, which I actual have available the built-in sounds besides you being able to record 6 10 second sounds that can be used. It has an option for an external speaker which you can place further away from the built-in speaker (its a wired external speaker, not wireless). And I has a volume control, which is actually very very loud at full volume, which is a complaint about other cheaper record-able doorbells. It has the option for a back door hookup. Its not cheap, the only down side. As I originally asked, I am using the I/O Low voltage to see if the doorbell rang, which then flashes some lights via ISY program and also I use the I/O Low voltage to trigger the back door doorbell switch when a Open/Close Sensor is triggered. So if someone rings the doorbell the lights flash as the doorbell plays its tunes. And in my case, if that door is actually opened, it trigger the back doorbell tunes and flashes some lights. I hope to have it back up and running before I go to Florida in about 10 days. I hope this is clear on what I'm doing, what are you planning on doing. Rob

The Open/Close Sensor is like the Motion Sensor in that it cannot be Queried. I don't understand this 24 hour thing. I think I need to look at the documentation of Open/Close Sensor and see what it says about what the Hearbeat does and how it works. Rob I've had the Motion Sensors do a battery low, its supposed to send that signal way before the battery dies. You just can't watch for it to change, you need the ISY to do something when it does change. Like send an email. This way you don't miss it. I am curious why some of my Motion Sensors report the Dusk/Dawn status. It seems that about 6pm the Dusk/Dawn Status changes from OFF to ON. I'm not using the NIGHT mode setting in Options. I don't care about this. But I noticed that most of the Motion Sensors show this, but one or two don't. I don't know why the one or two don't show and have to assume they have a different firmware. Funny, I just checked the manual, there is not one single word referencing the HEARTBEAT? Why would they leave that out completely? I downloaded several versions of the manual, 2843.pdf. Can someone verify that there isn't anything that talks about the HEARTBEAT? Thanks Rob Update: It seems the Hidden Door Sensor Model 2845 talks about the Heartbeat in the manual. But not one of the different versions of the Open/Close Sensor's manual talk about the Heartbeat. I wonder if the Open/Close Sensor actually contain the Heartbeat at all, if its never mentioned? Maybe that's why people have trouble using it, its not really there? Rob

why the wait for 25 hours? This is what I wrote to alert me on a battery low condition of the Open/Close Senor: Front Door O-C Sensor Low Battery - [iD 0031][Parent 0017] If Status 'Door O-C Sensor-Opened / Door O-C Sensor-Heartbeat' is Off Then Repeat Every 24 hours Send Notification to 'Email Program Alerts' content 'Email Program Runs' Send Notification to 'Text Program Alerts' content 'Text Program Runs' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') This is what I programmed for the motion sensors battery low alert: Foyer Closet Motion Low Battery - [iD 0028][Parent 0017] If Status 'Foyer Closet Motion-Sensor / Foyer Closet Motion-Low Bat' is On Then Repeat Every 24 hours Send Notification to 'Email Program Alerts' content 'Email Program Runs' Send Notification to 'Text Program Alerts' content 'Text Program Runs' Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') ​You say I probably should add the test for both On and Off. I'm using a check STATUS. I did this because there is no change that's going to happen because with the model/firmware I have its always showing ON. I guess when the battery goes low it should turn OFF at that point. Which is better to use the STATUS or the CONTROL? Rob ​

Hi all, Sothat is why the Open/Close Sensor's Hearbest is always on, its the same as the Motion Sensor Battery Low which is normally OFF and only goes ON when the battery is low? I have a program set up to notify me if any off my motion sensor's batteries are reporting a low (an ON status). So if I want the same with the Open/Close Sensor, I would just set up the same program but test for an OFF instead of an ON status, since the Heartbeat of the Open/Close Sensor's Heartbeat is in an ON status all the time? Thanks! Rob

Program 1, its labeled 'Modem/Router Reboot Key1' has the Keypadlinc button, if I add it to this program all that would happening is the flashing or blinking of the LED. Program 1 called this program to run with a 'RUN THEN' command. And also what is in program 1 is a 'STOP Program' command which will halt this program (program 2) from causing the LED to continue blinking. Still haven't found the time to run the test, but I got the REM stuff added because of you. That way I'm not turning off my cable modem and router needlessly. Rob UPDATE: After mulling over your suggestion a day later, your right I could add the IF for the Keypadlinc key control in the second program. I could add the complete reboot sequence in one program, that was the way I had it originally. So I could test with the IF in program 2 and then just call in Program 1. Either way should work fine. I never had a chance to test it out, instead I kept hitting the key by accident; wondering why it was flashing because I thought I DISABLED both programs. I had modified program 1 with the REM function you told me how to do, and ENABLED program 1. So my modem and router never turned off which is good, because it meant the REM function was working. It is working since it kept blinking because of accidentally hitting key as I was removing the key and replacing it with a different colored diffuser and new custom label. I'm still trying to figure out how to light up a key led when the isy encounters an error? Not sure it can be done. Rob

Stusviews, I discovered after making all these crazy changes that one of my Keypadlinc's was out of whack. It wasn't responding to anything I did, so I kept changing the program thinking I did something wrong. I started to look at the other Keypadlincs and they were working. So when I realized that it was the device and not what I was writing, I re-wrote the whole thing all over again, much simpler. To fix that Keypadlinc, instead of doing a factory reset in the device which would be more work, I just did a 'restore device'. That seems to have fixed the problem. Its funny because with all the problems I've had over the past 4 months getting everything installed and setup, it seems that this particular Keypadlinc is always at the center of my issues. Its quite possible that its a defective unit. I wonder how long the warranty is on the Keypadlinc, maybe I should ask for a replacement now. I was about to show you this long crazy program I did. Which did work! But after fixing the Keypadlinc, I got the program very tight and ended up breaking it into two programs. I still need to test it out to see if it works the way I want. But now that you told me how to REM something out, it will be easier to test it. Modem/Router Reboot Key1 - [iD 0030][Parent 0001][Not Enabled] If ( Control 'Live Couch Keypad - A / Live Router Keypad - F' is switched On ) Or ( Control 'Junk Keypad - A / Junk Router Keypad - F' is switched On ) Or ( Control 'Bedl-L Night Table Keypad A / Bed-L Router Keypad - F' is switched On ) Or ( Control 'Bed-R Night Table Keypad A / Bed-R Router Keypad F' is switched On ) Then Set 'Junk Router Switch On-Off' Off Wait 1 second Set 'Foyer Outlet Bot On-Off' Off Wait 1 second Run Program 'Modem/Router Reboot Key2' (Then Path) Wait 3 minutes Set 'Foyer Outlet Bot On-Off' On Wait 3 minutes Set 'Junk Router Switch On-Off' On Stop program 'Modem/Router Reboot Key2' Set Scene 'Reset Modem-Router' Fast Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Modem/Router Reboot Key2 - [iD 002F][Parent 0001][Not Enabled] If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then Repeat 6 times Set Scene 'Reset Modem-Router' Fast On Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Reset Modem-Router' Fast Off Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Reset Modem-Router' Fast On Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Reset Modem-Router' Fast Off Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Reset Modem-Router' Fast On Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Reset Modem-Router' Fast Off Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Reset Modem-Router' Fast On Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Reset Modem-Router' Fast Off Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Reset Modem-Router' Fast On Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Reset Modem-Router' Fast Off Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Reset Modem-Router' Fast On Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Reset Modem-Router' Fast Off Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Reset Modem-Router' Fast On Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Reset Modem-Router' Fast Off Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') This program is supposed to reboot both my cable modem and my router, both are physically located in different rooms. It is a way to activate manually via a particular key on a Keypadlinc. (Note: I have an automated program that does this function every night at 6am). I do realized that if I increase the amount repeats, I could remove most of the turn ons and turn offs, I just was trying to get it to repeat for as long as it took to finish up doing the rebooting in the first program. Its about 6 minutes or so. When I test it out, I can see what happens and adjust the second program (which is what is flashing the LED's on the 4 Keypadlincs! I'm not worried about traffic, because these two programs will never be used that much. I just wanted to give myself an easier way of doing the reboots manually. Rob

SCKoman, The paste came in with all the html code, here is how I get the program pasted into these forum messages without all that stuff; In the ISY admin console, go to your program and select it, then right click (not sure if your using a mac) and select at the bottom of the drop down menu: 'COPY TO CLIPBOARD', then just paste it into the message your composing. It comes in without all the html code wrapped into it. Rob

Wow! Your the man! Thanks! I discovered some other problem, but I want to finish reading the rest of the posts first! Had to run to the dentist yesterday, where they pulled my tooth, my whole side of my face blew up. It got infected! Rob

Hi, One more question: I want to REM out a line of code to test other parts of the code, is that function available, besides disabling the entire program? If not, I think I would like to ask that it be considered for version 5.0. Ok, here is what I did, I did not test it yet. I added a 'comment' to the program to describe what I am attempting to do. I did read in the wiki that it does need to be placed into the scene as a responder and not a controller in most cases. I wanted to have this function placed on a spare key of all 4 Keypadlincs, all got entered into the scene as a responder. Here it is: Modem/Router Reboot Key - [iD 0030][Parent 0001] If Control 'Live Couch Keypad - A / Live Reset Keypad - F' is switched On Or-( | Control 'Junk Keypad - A / Junk Reset Keypad - D' is switched On -) Or-( | Control 'Bedl-L Night Table Keypad A / Bed-L Reset Keypad - F' is switched On -) Or-( | Control 'Bed-R Night Table Keypad A / Bed-R Reset Keypad F' is switched On -) Then Set Scene 'Cable-Router Reset Scene' On <========= This is the scene created that contains all the Keypadlincs that were entered as responders. Wait 1 second Set Scene 'Junk Router Key F Scene' Off <========= This is the scene that is tied to Router On/Off Module - It turns the router off. Wait 1 second Set Scene 'Cable-Router Reset Scene' Off Wait 1 second Set Scene 'Cable-Router Reset Scene' On Wait 1 second Set 'Foyer Outlet Bot On-Off' Off <========= This is the Cable Modem, it is not tied to any scene, its direct control of bottom outlet - It turns the cable modem off. And then we wait 3 minutes approximate before turning anything back on, Wait 1 second Set Scene 'Cable-Router Reset Scene' On Repeat 6 times Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Cable-Router Reset Scene' Off Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Cable-Router Reset Scene' On Repeat 1 times Wait 5 seconds Set 'Foyer Outlet Bot On-Off' On Repeat 6 times Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Cable-Router Reset Scene' Off Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Cable-Router Reset Scene' On <========= This turns the Cable Modem back on. And we wait 3 minutes approximate before turning back on router Repeat 1 times Wait 5 seconds Set Scene 'Junk Router Key F Scene' On <========= This turns the Router back on. Set Scene 'Cable-Router Reset Scene' Off <========= Finally finished program and making sure LED is turned off. Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') This program is supposed to reboot both my cable modem and my router, both are physically located in different rooms. It is a way to activate manually via a particular key on a Keypadlinc. (Note: I have an automated program that does this function every night at 6am). This program doesn't just get activated from a key on Keypadlinc, it other purposewhile it is running is to flash (turn on and then off) the LED of that particular key. It does this by using multiple REPEAT and WAIT statements. I wanted to wait 3 minutes after turning off the cable modemand router before turning everything back on. I then wanted to wait another 3 minutes between the cable modemturning back on and the router being turned back on. While waiting for those minutes to be over I wanted the LED ofthe Keypadlinc to flash (turn on and off) every 5 seconds. I used the REPEAT command to do a on and an off waiting 5 seconds between each, so it is repeated a total 10 times. This repeat is done twice at to different times bringing the total wait timebefore everything is back online to 6 minutes in total for the program to run. END OF program! If there is way to make the code tighter and more efficient please let me know. Thanks Rob ​ UPDATE: Turns out that for some reason, having all the 4 keypadlinc keys in the one scene do not turn on the led of each keypadlinc. I even tried to add them all as controllers and it still would not turn on all the leds. Its strange to me, since I can turn on a on/off switch having two keypadlinc as controllers and both led's on each keypadlinc get turned on. Maybe the reason is because the links are written to a device not the keypadlinc?

Thanks Stusviews, So the individual LED of Keypadlinc is able to be turned on and off only through a scene, not by doing some SET command to the Keypadlinc. I'll try it out, it does seems a little strange that it has to be done like that, but I its because other than Key A (which is what the load is controlled by) the other keys are just sudo (couldn't think of another word to describe it) scene buttons. Rob Update: Should I add the key as a responder or a controller?

Hi all, Tonight I was trying to control only one of the 8 led lights on my 8 button Keypadlinc. When I attempted through a program to SET the Keypadlinc Button Key F on, all 8 buttons LED's turned on or off. I could not get that individual F key button to be control by itself. Then I tried to look up the answer in the Wiki and if I am reading it correctly, I just need to create a scene with just the F Key from the Keypadlinc in the Scene, I guess as a controller, nothing else? And just have the program control the scene not the keypadlinc itself. Or do I need to change the default setting for the Button Group? The button group settings info seems to just control how a key is handled when tapped for example as a toggle, on only, off only, that sort of thing, nothing really to do with the individual led? I want to turn on the LED when I run a program, right now with no program or scene assigned to the individual key. When I tap the key ON, the LED for that key turns on and turns off with the second tap of the that key. I want my program to turn on wait a second then turn it off, repeatedly until a RUN THEN program (another program) finished. I could merge what that other program does into this program. The other program reboots both my cable modem and my router (the both are located in two different rooms), The reboot program turns off the cable modem and then turns off the router, then the program waits 1 minutes, after that minute, it turns back on the cable modem, then waits 2 minutes, after that 2 minutes, it turns back on the router. That program is run every day at 6am. Its been running just the way I wanted it to. But there are cases where I want to run the program manual (not from the ISY console which I am forced to do now) from just one tap of a particular keypadlinc key (in this case key F), so while I am waiting for those total 3 minutes, I want the LED on KEY F to slowly flash or turn on and off repeatedly (the interval between the on and off I'm not too picky with, I'm not looking for a strobe light effect) until the 3 minutes is over, then just turn off the LED of key F when its all done. Thanks Rob

Hi all, I just found another head scratcher! I sat down tonight to just write down all my Insteon address and devices associated with them to a Word document. I realize I could use the built-in report but I want to do this for me. I was using the ISY admin program to get the address so I did not have to physically run to each device to get the address. When I got to the Open/Close Sensor after writing down the address, I noticed that that model number that shows up just below the name is for the TriggerLinc showing model number: 2421. The model number of the Open/Close Sensor is 2843-222 (I'm looking at the box it came in). I removed the Open/Close Sensor from the ISY and then added it back in but istead of using Auto-Discovery mode, I used the drop down menu to pick the 2843-222. But when it added it back in, it changed it back to the TriggerLinc 2421? Why is it doing that? Why is ISY still doing Auto-Discovery even when I specifically picked the 2843-222? I should say that the TriggerLinc options are correct, because I am using the new model that does not contain any jumper settings inside the unit. It got added with Open, Closed and Heartbeat Just asking if there is a reason its not using the correct model? Thanks! Rob

I have it set or Momentary B, per instruction for Doorbell. Maybe you should look at how that is setup and consider your lights the doorbell switch. Here is a link to that manual: http://cache-m2.smarthome.com/manuals/24950a6-qsg.pdf ​ To help you out: Originally, when I first setup the I/O Linc with the doorbell, I worked with the sensor first. I added the I/O Linc to the ISY after I had the ELK-930 wired up to the IOLinc. Then I created a scene called doorbell rung, which active an ON command someone pushed the hardwired doorbell. The (red) IOLinc 'Sensor' (not the (blue) IOLinc RELAY goes into the scene as a CONTROLLER and you can not change that, it has to be a controller. I then put a light, for an example a dimmer switch that controls my Foyer light. That goes in as a responder. Now if the doorbell is rung with the physical button, the doorbell rings and the light goes on for as long as I am holding the doorbell switch pushed in. This is how it works for me when using the IOLinc set to momentary B setting. I am attaching a screenshot of the options I have set for the I/O Linc. But because I wanted the light to stay on longer and flash multiple times I wrote a program instead of using the scene. Here is basically what I wrote: Doorbell IO Linc Rung - [iD 0022][Parent 0001][Not Enabled] If Control 'DoorBell IO Linc-Sensor' is switched On Then Repeat 3 times Set 'DoorBell IO Linc-Relay' Fast On Set 'Foyer Dimmer' On Wait 3 seconds Set 'DoorBell IO Linc-Relay' Fast Off Set 'Foyer Dimmer' Off Repeat 1 times Set 'Foyer Dimmer' Off Set 'DoorBell IO Linc-Relay' Off Else Set 'Foyer Dimmer' Off My program needs work but I wanted to show you what I did. ​ Now lets move to what I did with the I/O Linc RELAY I am planning on using the I/O Linc's RELAY function to ring the doorbell using a motion sensor (something you wanted to do) So I first tried creating a scene called Doorbell 'Ring' (the Sensor scene was named 'rung'). This would be used as I said to get an Insteon device trigger the I/O linc's RELAY switch to turn ON, hence closing the circuit to ring the doorbell instead of the physical switch that was done with the sensor part of the I/O Linc. I added the (blue) I/O Linc RELAY to the Scene again called Doorbell Ring, it can only go in this time as a RESPONDER (the opposite of the Sensor and cannot be changed). I now added the Motion Sensor into the Scene that I just added I/O LINC RELAY as a responder, it goes in as a Controller. I should point out that at first to make things simple for testing since you need to constantly hit the SET button that it inside the Motion Sensor's battery compartment for every change you make, I used a plug in lamp module. That gave me easy access to the set button if I needed it but more importantly access to a ON button and an OFF button. Again just for testing. (Remember with these battery operated sensors, you need to put them manually into a communications mode to be able to take the changes/links, etc. And you press and hold that set button until it flashes its LED, to end the communications mode you need to tap twice. tapping once makes the LED do a fast flash of its LED) So now if I turn the On button on the lamp module or the motion sensor sends its ON command because it got triggered by someone walking in front of the sensor, that ON command sends a signal to the I/O Linc RELAY to closed the circuit (assuming you are wired to the NO and COM) which in my case rings the Doorbell.​ Again, I still have the I/O Linc set for Momentary B. (I'm repeating this statementfor a reason which I explain later in the post). And with the Scene and not using any programs here is what I get: Whoops! Forgot to tell you exactly how I wired the Doorbell to the I/O Linc. I added a wire from the Doorbell's power supply (which is a 16 volt VAC, bear in mind the only thing the RELAY is doing is closed or opening the circuit, in other words turning on the switch or turning it off, in my case a doorbell. Remember you can only run up to 5A @ 30 volts AC or DC through the RELAY. When I send an ON command via the Motion Sensor, it will ring the doorbell. Prior to this evening, I was then sending an OFF command to open the RELAY or turn off the switch. The timing of how long the RELAY will stay active or CLOSED in the case, keeping a device ON is the time you have set in the OPTION settings of the I/O Linc. The I/O Linc's options settings are the same if you accessed them via the Sensor or the RELAY, it is the same, you cannot have two different OPTION settings for each mod. SENSOR and RELAY read the same OPTIONS settings. So with a doorbell, I only want the RELAY CLOSED (ON) for a faction of a second. But it can be set for 0 to 25 seconds. I figured out tonight that having the I/O linc set for Momentary B, there was never any need to send an OFF command to the RELAY. it would automatically OPEN (turn itself off what ever was attached to the RELAY). So my program that I showed you what I wrote, can be altered by removing all the set I/O Linc Relay OFF. There never was any need for it. But because I want something different than the doorbell ringing just once when someone walked in front of the sensor or an ON command was sent from a ON/OFF module. I need to write a program. I wanted the doorbell to ring 3 times and flash the lights 3 times. Doorbell IO Linc Rung - [iD 0022][Parent 0001][Not Enabled] If Control 'Door Motion Sensor' is switched On Then Repeat 3 times Set 'DoorBell IO Linc-Relay' Fast On Set 'Foyer Dimmer' On Wait 3 seconds Set 'DoorBell IO Linc-Relay' Fast Off Set 'Foyer Dimmer' Off Repeat 1 times Set 'Foyer Dimmer' Off Set 'DoorBell IO Linc-Relay' Off Else Set 'Foyer Dimmer' Off This is basically the same program as above but here the Motion Sensor is what is activating the doorbell via the I/O Linc Relay. Of course, I need to clean up this program since made my new discovery tonight that I no longer need to add the "Set 'DoorBell IO Linc-Relay' Fast Off", it will turn off automatically when the duration time is reached. That duration time is set via Option settings. Again, remember I am set for Momentary B. Here is one very interesting thing that I also verified tonight: Even though the manual states that the duration can be set from 2 seconds to 30 seconds, it seems not to be the case. With the ISY, you can set for 0.0 and increments of 0.1 seconds up to 0.9 seconds and from there up to 25 seconds. But here is the kicker, using the Insteon HUB, it can go from 0.20 seconds all the way up to 105 MINUTES. ​ Did you get that, it can be set for 105 minutes!!!! Not the max of 25 seconds? So what gives? Why can you do this with the Insteon HUB and not the ISY? And I am going to post a screenshot from my phone that I took that lists all the available options for the I/O Linc that are provided through the HUB. And the screenshot is not showing the complete list of available I/O Linc options, I just couldn't fit it on one screenshot. if interested I can try and post the other options with additional screen shots at another time. FYI: Everything I showed you want I did originally, I actually did again while composing this post just to make sure I did not leave out any detail. It all got tested again tonight. Tomorrow I will go back and correct my programs and re-test them, maybe in doing so I will solve my issue. but I wrote this out to help Wingsy see exactly what I did so he might be able to track down his problems, if they still exist. So I'm sorry I got long winded, I wanted to include everything. Rob PS just noticed that another post came in while I was composing this message to post. Yes, it does seem that Insteon is not being fair to UDI and not providing them with all the various options for the I/O Linc and other devices that I have talked about. And yes, I actually will post this over on Insteon forums so maybe that can answer why they are not providing complete development specs. Is what I am encountering (missing Option settings) hurting UDI, when UDI has propelled Insteon in so many ways?