CoolToys

First Question, Do the led dim at all? You said you have to go to full brightness to get them to stop. Second, Brand of LED and how old? Older LED's don't like digital dimming, they were made for rotary resistance dimmers. The way you describe the problem, that isn't flickering that the eliminators can fix Third question: Are all of the bulbs on the switch the same brand, series and dimmable? Just one different bulb can kill the circuit sometimes due to differences in control circuits. I started testing LED bulbs with insteon and leviton switches in 2006 and many of the brands that don't work are somewhere in this forum. In the past four years I have only found one brand at Home Depot to be an issue, ecosmart, and some work, some don't so it isn't consistent for the brand. The newest eco smarts appear to be ok. The biggest cause of flickering as you describe it was caused by non-dimmable LED on an Insteon (or Leviton or Lutron) dimmer. Older dimmers were good down to 5 or 6 watts. In my office for example, I only use a 6 Watt LED on one of the lamps. With a non dimming bulb it flickers. Yes, I had the same problem when I upgraded to the i3 switches so I could get the engraved. And yes the Eliminator in the above post by @Brian H worked. I got lucky and the blue one worked first try. I have a patio light that is an 8 Watt LED on a single i3 switch and it had a slight glow all the time when the switch was off. That was fixed with the Flicker-Glow Eliminator. I installed the flicker-glow eliminator behind the patio lamp since there was no way it was fitting behind the switch in the box. Suggestions are first to try a different brand of dimmable LED bulb and make sure the load is at least 20 watts total, i.e. 4 x 5 watt bulbs. or 2 x 10 watt bulbs or more. Second is to try the flicker glow eliminators.

I just got around to updating to 5.9.1 as I try and find a way for the eisy to control my new "permanent" LED holiday lights by HYSRT. Yesterday the house didn't shift modes, I use three state variables, sNight, sEarly_Morning and sSunrise_Daytime. Most of the motion based automatic light scenes should not come on is sNight = 0 or sSunrise_Daytime = 1. The code is unchanged for several years, here is the sunrise one. Sunrise Set Day - [ID 002D][Parent 0048] If Time is Sunrise Then $sSunrise_Daytime = 1 $sEarly_Morning = 0 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') The state variables are changing but the programs are ignoring the lines in the program so this works even is sSunrise_Daytime = 1 Auto Kitchen - [ID 0014][Parent 0001] If 'Din SliderActivity' Status is On And $sSunrise_Daytime is not 1 And 'Kitchen Main Master' Status is Off Then $sKitchen_Motion = 1 Set 'Night Kitchen Snack' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') And last night the house didn't light itself up at sunset. I verified that this worked (The last two lines are leftover from troubleshooting "long running randomness" a year or so ago. It has been working so I haven't cleaned up all of the test code. Sunset to Night - [ID 000C][Parent 0048] If Time is Sunset Then $sNight = 1 $sBedtime = 0 $sSunrise_Daytime = 0 $iAtomic_Test_Tracker = 0 Set 'Courtyard Niche Top' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') The fountain came on and the sNight was "1" and sHouse_Active was "1" but this never ran. Night Daily Home - [ID 0003][Parent 0001] If $sHouse_Active is 1 And $sNight is 1 And $sBedtime is 0 Then Set 'Entry Art Niche' On Wait 1 minute Set 'Dine - DR Button' On Wait 4 seconds Set 'MB Cabinet Status' On Wait 1 minute ... (shortened for space) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Any thoughts? Thank you

You have a lot going on here, and I will be the first to admit that I had 90% of the same problems as I migrated from the 994 to the eisy and in fact once returned the eisy until UDI cancelled support and forced the upgrade. The Elk poly does a lot of things much better than the old UDI module but it is much more difficult to configure. As the guys stated before there are a lot of help files with the poly but I found most of them written for programmers not users. Here in the forum there are answers for everything you are looking for. As far as connections, there is a lot in this thread, but did you ever get your router to set a DHCP reservation? Without it, every power failure you might lose the connection. There is a ton of help here in the migration thread And here is where the answers for my own elk issues were solved by some others here I agree with @DennisC until you get it correct you will have difficulty. I didn't have time to do it right but I made the time to do it thrice.

Maybe as a last resort follow the replace PLM instructions?

@paulbates, Thank you, I am glad to hear it isn't just me. I will do a reset today. I realized that button 4 on the i3 4 button also is a controller/responder to another scene on the same 8 button controller. So my original post was asking the wrong question. The "dining" scene works fine, it is the "patio" scene only that is the issue. Full reset and reload of both of them today, I will test and post results.

Oh yeah, one more note, the load on the insteon switch next to the 8 button keypad flickers when they are both set to controller. The eisy indicates that all loads are on properly after pressing either button. So I added a program to query, all that did was correct to what actually turned on. I am starting to see several keypad buttons lit up and the associated device or scene not on in the house. Once upon a time I understood that if I created a scene in the eisy, the scene was loaded into the devices. Some scenes work with the eisy off line, and others don't. For today's experiment I think I will delete the scene and devices from eisy, manually create the scene with the set buttons. Find the devices and keep the links to see what it does. In another thread there is a discussion that eisy only sends the scene command. I thought Insteon devices self checked and corrected however now I see "retry" options in IoX. I also recall that when an insteon device receives a command from eisy that it treats it differently then a button press. For this situation I am talking about a button press. Maybe a program for the 8 button to launch the "patio" scene and leave the i3 as the controller?

@lilyoyo1 That's what I thought, but they are not. I've tried deleting the devices and the scene. I noticed that there are more setting levels available with i3 so I thought that may have been it. For now I am leaving the 3rd button on the i3 as a responder so the scene works.

Greywinds and Smartwings blinds can use usb-c connectors. I would think that wire is easier to hide that 120v or Cat5 like wire. I have one of the solar panels just to see how they look/work. It works, but a bit too big to hide.

I have battery powered greywinds blinds. These were "easy" to install, but not eisy controllable. They work great with Alexa, Apple Home and uh the HA green, but for whatever reason the eisy sees them and I get "main" or "unavailable" for all of the devices. I can control them via alexa with the eisy, but the entire idea of the eisy is autonomous operation of my home. Thanks for the information on smart wings, I think I will buy one and see if it is worth the swap out. Greywinds are battery operated and the battery level is monitored by the HA so it alerts me to plug them in at 25% which is about every 90 days. Any idea on the smart wings battery life for the wireless versions? I have the HA as a test tool, I like the eisy better overall and have years invested learning it. Nevermind that I am too lazy to program the HA from scratch.

while going through other issues I swapped an old Powerline switch for a new custom engraved i3 four button. As a standalone the four button works fine. I have an 8 button keypad in the dining room with a "patio" key button. It is and has been the controller for the "patio" scene which turns on the main load on the new i3 and four other switches and an outdoor switched outlet. I also wanted the 3rd button to do the same thing. In the past I set them both to "controller". My understanding is this makes them both "controller/responders". so turning one on turn on the scene and the other switch. When only the Patio button the 8 button keypad is the controller, the scene works. When Only the Patio (3rd) button on the i3 4 button is the controller the scene works. When they are both set, neither work. One turns on two lights of the scene, the other turns on three. Neither turns on the outlet. Any thoughts? Is this not possible and I am approaching dual controller idea wrong? Do I need two identical scenes where the i3 is the controller for one and a responder in the other and reverse for the the second scene?

Now over 14 days no errors. The light on the keypads not going off with the scene are an i3 outlet that comes back on. The keypad is properly indicating something is on. Both outlets set to "load sensing off" and no changes. A strange new feature of my system is that my wife's watch winder is now getting little trickles of energy from the 2456S3 Appliance Linc v.42. Instead of a constant hum it is a "click" as it tries to move about once every 6 seconds.

@Geddy, @paulbates The four button was at least 3mm deeper than the 2476D it replaced. Shoving it into one of the last 1970 original boxes left in my house was a challenge. @mfryd I don't see anyway to do it in in IOX, only the 1 address appears with all of the options as a load controller, but that isn't to say if you didn't use the hub to move the load it would not move on IoX.

@larryllix, wow, this is a new one on me, so kudos from digging up the blog. Sorry for the long delay, I work overseas for a week at a time each month. I did some more research on the Bell HH4000 and yes it appears you need to downgrade to the H3000 to turn off DHCP and create a bridge mode. Sadly I eliminated the middle man and my fiber converter simply gives me a hot RJ45 jack with a single IP address, the rest is up to me and I get zero support from Frontier. I noticed the blogger mentioned that he was going to try a double NAT and hasn't posted results. When you say Double NAT didn't work, how did you set it up? Did you force an address on the NAT table from the bell router. I used .100 after reading some other information about how Bell routers reset after power failure. .1 - .5 apparently do random things so stay away from that range. Bell Router IP Address - Bell Assigned Local IP address 192.168.1.1 DCHP 192.169.1.2-255 DNS 1 Bell Assigned DNS 2 8.8.8.8 (Google if possible) WiFi7 Router IP Address 192.168.1.100 DHCP 192.168.2.101-255 DNS 1 192.168.1.1 DNS2 8.8.8.8 Devices (DHCP ok) Fixed IP Address in range of 192.168.2.5 - 2.95 Gateway address of 192.168.2.100

Well Skip that, I restarted iOX and did a factory reset on the switch and all is well.

I read a while back that new insteon didn't provide codes and wasn't supported but I thought that was fixed? Today my new @domotinc-customs 4 button with custom engraving arrived. Linking worked just fine, I tried to rename and got a communications error, unable to find linking name table. So I deleted and started over. Same thing, it links fine and then I get can't communicate. I put it in place of a 2476 dimmer. The dimmer was deleted before I cut power to the circuit and swapped the switches. Fair warning to anyone looking at i3, the switch is much deeper than the 2476 is, a lot harder to cram in the old work box.

@larryllix, I think you are on the right track, standing by for the results

@larryllix, yes part of a true mesh is to reduce overall wifi radiation and reduce channel congestion. The other part of a true mesh is the ability to lose a node and have the other nodes pick up and redirect traffic. It's good to know that you have them on a hardwired backbone. ASUS swaps to a bridge mode when hard wired which is a good thing as it should improve overall speeds. The nodes "talk" to each other to clear up channels which makes your troubles all the more curious to me. If you have that much land you are trying to cover you likely need a directional mesh with MIMO like the TP Link Deco that has outdoor rated hubs or the Wavlink AC1200 extender. These should give you a massive spray outside without needing to microwave yourself inside. For single router solutions, any major gaming hub will give the best range. But the 45 second delay thing should be solved first. That's worse than a stone age 56kps modem.

Seven days, no long running randomness. Just two LED on keypad lights not going off with scene since noise filters added. 99.95% there. This one may be a code error.

@larryllix, not an Asus Mesh fan, it isn't true mesh. They make great gaming WiFi Routers, and those work great as a standalone. Most "mesh" networks are not really mesh until you get up to at least 5 nodes. Two or three wifi mesh nodes can't really "mesh" they can only bridge which greatly slows things down. I have had very good experience with Orbi, Google, eero 6 and Linksys but in all cases I set them up so the nodes were wired to a switch that wired to the main node so there was no "mesh" usage on the triband, all hub to hub comm was over Cat 6. All had a minimum of 3 nodes with as many as 6 in some larger homes. Going back to your original post about DHCP taking 45 seconds to connect? That sounds like you have two master devices trying to manage DHCP and that can cause some odd things. In your polisy, what are you sending via ip commands? Regardless if you don't have a windows simple name server for the device and a windows name server set up, every little power surge or network collision can reassign an address and your polisy sends commands to the ether. I suggest you do this. -Set the Bell Router up as a gateway at 192.168.1.1 and turn off wifi and DHCP if possible. -Plug your WiFi Router of choice in and set it up with a static IP of 192.168.1.2 in "WAN Settings" with a subnet mask of 255.255.255.0. -Use a DNS server and gateway setting of 192.168.1.1. -If you can add a second dns server add google's 8.8.8.8 or your ISP's DNS server if you can see that in your ISP router -Then set up your wifi router outbound IP (sometimes called "host" or listed under "local network") as 192.168.3.1, and start DHCP at 192.168.3.150 This creates a separate network for your stuff and does 90% the same thing "bridge mode" does on the bell router and make finding devices and troubleshooting much easier.

Good Morning everyone. Yes @Geddy, you and @EWhite are correct, and thank you for the answer. I agree with @larryllix and I am not sure why UDI doesn't eliminate the panel to reduce confusion. I have set the IP address in the router as a DHCP reservation. I have dedicated IP fiber internet with a VPN policy between my home and office so they are transparent when I work from home. 192.168.2.x is the office and .5.x is the home, .4.x is the guest network at both. I got away from .1.x a long time ago as most DNS and back door hacks look for those numbers. For @larryllix, what equipment do you have and use? Can you set up the Bell device in "bridge only" mode? Can you set it up as 192.168.1.1 and use that as the gateway. This way, your main hub/wifi router can be 192.168.3.x with the gateway of .1.x? Some VPN have issues with this set up but most like Nord are fine with it now. This also means you aren't stuck with a crappy wifi provided by your ISP. This does four things. 1. it gives you the ability to mesh and grow your network as needed. 2. Allows a real partition with any guest networks if you turn them on. 3. Any device on the .3.x network traffic that isn't broadcasting bonjour or web service stays local and makes the network a bit faster and more efficient. I also use switches, not hubs for the same reason. 4. It also lets you see who is broadcasting very easily and troubleshoot dead spots or dead wires. When the network goes wonky and you need to find a device or catch the neighbor kid war hogging, IP Scanner Ultra is a great app. Once you name everything in IP Scanner by mac address it keeps everything easy to trace. All of those "unknown devices" can be named and labeled once you figure out what they are. I learned this naming method at Stanford when they named the first three mainframes How, What and Why. This was long before ethernet and at the birth of IP addresses. DecNet and AppleTalk anyone? Yes I heard it, I am old, but I have kept up with networking ever since. All of my devices except the eisy are set to static IP and in the Router as the same IP address. When the router died everything was copy and paste to lock it back down except the eisy which is why I asked the original question. The rest is mostly for anyone thinking of adding wires or remodeling. Wires are better period. All devices have Disney names, all the female names are my wife's office, the male names are mine, and castle names are shared house computers like the eisy and HA green. This makes network troubleshooting a breeze. I voted for beach/surfing names but we couldn't agree or come up with enough names. I might go all cars if I ever need to rebuild the network. I'll call my crappy printer Yugo instead of Dopey. Linksys keeps dummying down the app to manage the router but they leave the advanced settings in the back so you can always get there. I used to need a router from the ISP but with the new fiber box I just get a single co-ax out for TV and RJ-45 for Internet. They do no routing anymore, just single ip address provision as a bridge for one device the rest is up to me. House is wired dual Cat 6 to every TV, Camera, Rack and desk location. Only whitelisted devices can connect to the main wifi, the guest wifi is open and firewall from the main network using .4.x addresses for easy identification and limited exposure outside the network. And yes back this up! if you lose a router it is a lot to re-enter. Not being able to set the IP address of the eisy makes it more fun. The setup is inbound IP connection is the In on the main Linksys Mesh WiFi hub, the four "outs" go to: 1. AV Rack Main, 2. AV Rack Down, 3. IP Camera NVR 4. POE Switch in Main interconnect panel. Each of these locations has a Netgear 8 or 16 port GB switch with POE ports. I wired the TV's and AV racks so that I could use an HDBaseT matrix for video. It's a great party trick and basic matrix are under $500 now good ones under 2K. I was considering the Amazon eero 7 mesh system because it has a zigbee matter hub built in, but then I looked at the eula and it gives them full access to the network. No thank you. We use the Orbi 7 at the Yacht club where I am the IT chairman and it works great. Cisco Pro in the office.

My router failed this week and I couldn't connect to the eisy. My network is hardcoded with fixed IP addresses. But when I installed the new network I couldn't get to the eisy at its normal spot. I found it using the launcher and tried to set the IP address back but the DHCP check box is greyed out. Did I miss something? We can't used fixed IP addresses any more? ion 5.8.4

@IndyMike, no powerwalls, just the solaredge inverters which are set up for powerwalls. My wallet isn't that fat yet. In the Powerwall thread I suggested someone try the Leviton 42120. I have been using the 42120 since X-10 days to clean up the inbound powerline signal and block any spurious noise from the main line, neighbors etc.

Has anyone make a 3d printer model for the Eisy to Rack mount it? I found a guy in Australia that made one for the Home Assistant, but not the Eisy. Happy to pay for one if anyone has the models or knows where to buy one.

@fegelmej, I had a huge list of issue migrating from the 994 to the Eisy. Some was my programming, some was "tokens" not connecting. Here is the shortcut to the list of everything I did and notes where scenes and devices do different things in IoX, which I didn't have issues with before.

@IndyMike Geez, I had forgotten about filterlinc's I used them in my last house, two ordered, one for each AV rack and I also ordered a 2477 to replace the 2476 in our bedroom and see if that helps. Like many of the people with issues on Tesla Power Walls, I filter the inbound power. My solar edge inverter induced its own noise problems so I added a Leviton 42120. I do have dual mesh switched on each phase in "steps" throughout the house. When we did the remodel the sheathing and roof are techshield which is great at blocking/reflecting RF and used RockWool insulation in a lot of the walls and attic which is also a terrific audio and RF absorbent material. The house is divided into four zones with each zone stepping off of the previous. As I am re-mapping that out I see that there is a small potential gap leading to our bedroom. The "hop" in the middle from the next closest dual mesh is another 2476 although directly below the keypad linc in the bedroom is another dual mesh 5 button so that hop shouldn't be the issue. Isn't powerline fun.....