CoolToys

@paulbates, Thank you, I am glad to hear it isn't just me. I will do a reset today. I realized that button 4 on the i3 4 button also is a controller/responder to another scene on the same 8 button controller. So my original post was asking the wrong question. The "dining" scene works fine, it is the "patio" scene only that is the issue. Full reset and reload of both of them today, I will test and post results.

Oh yeah, one more note, the load on the insteon switch next to the 8 button keypad flickers when they are both set to controller. The eisy indicates that all loads are on properly after pressing either button. So I added a program to query, all that did was correct to what actually turned on. I am starting to see several keypad buttons lit up and the associated device or scene not on in the house. Once upon a time I understood that if I created a scene in the eisy, the scene was loaded into the devices. Some scenes work with the eisy off line, and others don't. For today's experiment I think I will delete the scene and devices from eisy, manually create the scene with the set buttons. Find the devices and keep the links to see what it does. In another thread there is a discussion that eisy only sends the scene command. I thought Insteon devices self checked and corrected however now I see "retry" options in IoX. I also recall that when an insteon device receives a command from eisy that it treats it differently then a button press. For this situation I am talking about a button press. Maybe a program for the 8 button to launch the "patio" scene and leave the i3 as the controller?

@lilyoyo1 That's what I thought, but they are not. I've tried deleting the devices and the scene. I noticed that there are more setting levels available with i3 so I thought that may have been it. For now I am leaving the 3rd button on the i3 as a responder so the scene works.

Greywinds and Smartwings blinds can use usb-c connectors. I would think that wire is easier to hide that 120v or Cat5 like wire. I have one of the solar panels just to see how they look/work. It works, but a bit too big to hide.

I have battery powered greywinds blinds. These were "easy" to install, but not eisy controllable. They work great with Alexa, Apple Home and uh the HA green, but for whatever reason the eisy sees them and I get "main" or "unavailable" for all of the devices. I can control them via alexa with the eisy, but the entire idea of the eisy is autonomous operation of my home. Thanks for the information on smart wings, I think I will buy one and see if it is worth the swap out. Greywinds are battery operated and the battery level is monitored by the HA so it alerts me to plug them in at 25% which is about every 90 days. Any idea on the smart wings battery life for the wireless versions? I have the HA as a test tool, I like the eisy better overall and have years invested learning it. Nevermind that I am too lazy to program the HA from scratch.

while going through other issues I swapped an old Powerline switch for a new custom engraved i3 four button. As a standalone the four button works fine. I have an 8 button keypad in the dining room with a "patio" key button. It is and has been the controller for the "patio" scene which turns on the main load on the new i3 and four other switches and an outdoor switched outlet. I also wanted the 3rd button to do the same thing. In the past I set them both to "controller". My understanding is this makes them both "controller/responders". so turning one on turn on the scene and the other switch. When only the Patio button the 8 button keypad is the controller, the scene works. When Only the Patio (3rd) button on the i3 4 button is the controller the scene works. When they are both set, neither work. One turns on two lights of the scene, the other turns on three. Neither turns on the outlet. Any thoughts? Is this not possible and I am approaching dual controller idea wrong? Do I need two identical scenes where the i3 is the controller for one and a responder in the other and reverse for the the second scene?

Now over 14 days no errors. The light on the keypads not going off with the scene are an i3 outlet that comes back on. The keypad is properly indicating something is on. Both outlets set to "load sensing off" and no changes. A strange new feature of my system is that my wife's watch winder is now getting little trickles of energy from the 2456S3 Appliance Linc v.42. Instead of a constant hum it is a "click" as it tries to move about once every 6 seconds.

@Geddy, @paulbates The four button was at least 3mm deeper than the 2476D it replaced. Shoving it into one of the last 1970 original boxes left in my house was a challenge. @mfryd I don't see anyway to do it in in IOX, only the 1 address appears with all of the options as a load controller, but that isn't to say if you didn't use the hub to move the load it would not move on IoX.

@larryllix, wow, this is a new one on me, so kudos from digging up the blog. Sorry for the long delay, I work overseas for a week at a time each month. I did some more research on the Bell HH4000 and yes it appears you need to downgrade to the H3000 to turn off DHCP and create a bridge mode. Sadly I eliminated the middle man and my fiber converter simply gives me a hot RJ45 jack with a single IP address, the rest is up to me and I get zero support from Frontier. I noticed the blogger mentioned that he was going to try a double NAT and hasn't posted results. When you say Double NAT didn't work, how did you set it up? Did you force an address on the NAT table from the bell router. I used .100 after reading some other information about how Bell routers reset after power failure. .1 - .5 apparently do random things so stay away from that range. Bell Router IP Address - Bell Assigned Local IP address 192.168.1.1 DCHP 192.169.1.2-255 DNS 1 Bell Assigned DNS 2 8.8.8.8 (Google if possible) WiFi7 Router IP Address 192.168.1.100 DHCP 192.168.2.101-255 DNS 1 192.168.1.1 DNS2 8.8.8.8 Devices (DHCP ok) Fixed IP Address in range of 192.168.2.5 - 2.95 Gateway address of 192.168.2.100

Well Skip that, I restarted iOX and did a factory reset on the switch and all is well.

I read a while back that new insteon didn't provide codes and wasn't supported but I thought that was fixed? Today my new @domotinc-customs 4 button with custom engraving arrived. Linking worked just fine, I tried to rename and got a communications error, unable to find linking name table. So I deleted and started over. Same thing, it links fine and then I get can't communicate. I put it in place of a 2476 dimmer. The dimmer was deleted before I cut power to the circuit and swapped the switches. Fair warning to anyone looking at i3, the switch is much deeper than the 2476 is, a lot harder to cram in the old work box.

@larryllix, I think you are on the right track, standing by for the results

@larryllix, yes part of a true mesh is to reduce overall wifi radiation and reduce channel congestion. The other part of a true mesh is the ability to lose a node and have the other nodes pick up and redirect traffic. It's good to know that you have them on a hardwired backbone. ASUS swaps to a bridge mode when hard wired which is a good thing as it should improve overall speeds. The nodes "talk" to each other to clear up channels which makes your troubles all the more curious to me. If you have that much land you are trying to cover you likely need a directional mesh with MIMO like the TP Link Deco that has outdoor rated hubs or the Wavlink AC1200 extender. These should give you a massive spray outside without needing to microwave yourself inside. For single router solutions, any major gaming hub will give the best range. But the 45 second delay thing should be solved first. That's worse than a stone age 56kps modem.

Seven days, no long running randomness. Just two LED on keypad lights not going off with scene since noise filters added. 99.95% there. This one may be a code error.

@larryllix, not an Asus Mesh fan, it isn't true mesh. They make great gaming WiFi Routers, and those work great as a standalone. Most "mesh" networks are not really mesh until you get up to at least 5 nodes. Two or three wifi mesh nodes can't really "mesh" they can only bridge which greatly slows things down. I have had very good experience with Orbi, Google, eero 6 and Linksys but in all cases I set them up so the nodes were wired to a switch that wired to the main node so there was no "mesh" usage on the triband, all hub to hub comm was over Cat 6. All had a minimum of 3 nodes with as many as 6 in some larger homes. Going back to your original post about DHCP taking 45 seconds to connect? That sounds like you have two master devices trying to manage DHCP and that can cause some odd things. In your polisy, what are you sending via ip commands? Regardless if you don't have a windows simple name server for the device and a windows name server set up, every little power surge or network collision can reassign an address and your polisy sends commands to the ether. I suggest you do this. -Set the Bell Router up as a gateway at 192.168.1.1 and turn off wifi and DHCP if possible. -Plug your WiFi Router of choice in and set it up with a static IP of 192.168.1.2 in "WAN Settings" with a subnet mask of 255.255.255.0. -Use a DNS server and gateway setting of 192.168.1.1. -If you can add a second dns server add google's 8.8.8.8 or your ISP's DNS server if you can see that in your ISP router -Then set up your wifi router outbound IP (sometimes called "host" or listed under "local network") as 192.168.3.1, and start DHCP at 192.168.3.150 This creates a separate network for your stuff and does 90% the same thing "bridge mode" does on the bell router and make finding devices and troubleshooting much easier.

Good Morning everyone. Yes @Geddy, you and @EWhite are correct, and thank you for the answer. I agree with @larryllix and I am not sure why UDI doesn't eliminate the panel to reduce confusion. I have set the IP address in the router as a DHCP reservation. I have dedicated IP fiber internet with a VPN policy between my home and office so they are transparent when I work from home. 192.168.2.x is the office and .5.x is the home, .4.x is the guest network at both. I got away from .1.x a long time ago as most DNS and back door hacks look for those numbers. For @larryllix, what equipment do you have and use? Can you set up the Bell device in "bridge only" mode? Can you set it up as 192.168.1.1 and use that as the gateway. This way, your main hub/wifi router can be 192.168.3.x with the gateway of .1.x? Some VPN have issues with this set up but most like Nord are fine with it now. This also means you aren't stuck with a crappy wifi provided by your ISP. This does four things. 1. it gives you the ability to mesh and grow your network as needed. 2. Allows a real partition with any guest networks if you turn them on. 3. Any device on the .3.x network traffic that isn't broadcasting bonjour or web service stays local and makes the network a bit faster and more efficient. I also use switches, not hubs for the same reason. 4. It also lets you see who is broadcasting very easily and troubleshoot dead spots or dead wires. When the network goes wonky and you need to find a device or catch the neighbor kid war hogging, IP Scanner Ultra is a great app. Once you name everything in IP Scanner by mac address it keeps everything easy to trace. All of those "unknown devices" can be named and labeled once you figure out what they are. I learned this naming method at Stanford when they named the first three mainframes How, What and Why. This was long before ethernet and at the birth of IP addresses. DecNet and AppleTalk anyone? Yes I heard it, I am old, but I have kept up with networking ever since. All of my devices except the eisy are set to static IP and in the Router as the same IP address. When the router died everything was copy and paste to lock it back down except the eisy which is why I asked the original question. The rest is mostly for anyone thinking of adding wires or remodeling. Wires are better period. All devices have Disney names, all the female names are my wife's office, the male names are mine, and castle names are shared house computers like the eisy and HA green. This makes network troubleshooting a breeze. I voted for beach/surfing names but we couldn't agree or come up with enough names. I might go all cars if I ever need to rebuild the network. I'll call my crappy printer Yugo instead of Dopey. Linksys keeps dummying down the app to manage the router but they leave the advanced settings in the back so you can always get there. I used to need a router from the ISP but with the new fiber box I just get a single co-ax out for TV and RJ-45 for Internet. They do no routing anymore, just single ip address provision as a bridge for one device the rest is up to me. House is wired dual Cat 6 to every TV, Camera, Rack and desk location. Only whitelisted devices can connect to the main wifi, the guest wifi is open and firewall from the main network using .4.x addresses for easy identification and limited exposure outside the network. And yes back this up! if you lose a router it is a lot to re-enter. Not being able to set the IP address of the eisy makes it more fun. The setup is inbound IP connection is the In on the main Linksys Mesh WiFi hub, the four "outs" go to: 1. AV Rack Main, 2. AV Rack Down, 3. IP Camera NVR 4. POE Switch in Main interconnect panel. Each of these locations has a Netgear 8 or 16 port GB switch with POE ports. I wired the TV's and AV racks so that I could use an HDBaseT matrix for video. It's a great party trick and basic matrix are under $500 now good ones under 2K. I was considering the Amazon eero 7 mesh system because it has a zigbee matter hub built in, but then I looked at the eula and it gives them full access to the network. No thank you. We use the Orbi 7 at the Yacht club where I am the IT chairman and it works great. Cisco Pro in the office.

My router failed this week and I couldn't connect to the eisy. My network is hardcoded with fixed IP addresses. But when I installed the new network I couldn't get to the eisy at its normal spot. I found it using the launcher and tried to set the IP address back but the DHCP check box is greyed out. Did I miss something? We can't used fixed IP addresses any more? ion 5.8.4

@IndyMike, no powerwalls, just the solaredge inverters which are set up for powerwalls. My wallet isn't that fat yet. In the Powerwall thread I suggested someone try the Leviton 42120. I have been using the 42120 since X-10 days to clean up the inbound powerline signal and block any spurious noise from the main line, neighbors etc.

Has anyone make a 3d printer model for the Eisy to Rack mount it? I found a guy in Australia that made one for the Home Assistant, but not the Eisy. Happy to pay for one if anyone has the models or knows where to buy one.

@fegelmej, I had a huge list of issue migrating from the 994 to the Eisy. Some was my programming, some was "tokens" not connecting. Here is the shortcut to the list of everything I did and notes where scenes and devices do different things in IoX, which I didn't have issues with before.

@IndyMike Geez, I had forgotten about filterlinc's I used them in my last house, two ordered, one for each AV rack and I also ordered a 2477 to replace the 2476 in our bedroom and see if that helps. Like many of the people with issues on Tesla Power Walls, I filter the inbound power. My solar edge inverter induced its own noise problems so I added a Leviton 42120. I do have dual mesh switched on each phase in "steps" throughout the house. When we did the remodel the sheathing and roof are techshield which is great at blocking/reflecting RF and used RockWool insulation in a lot of the walls and attic which is also a terrific audio and RF absorbent material. The house is divided into four zones with each zone stepping off of the previous. As I am re-mapping that out I see that there is a small potential gap leading to our bedroom. The "hop" in the middle from the next closest dual mesh is another 2476 although directly below the keypad linc in the bedroom is another dual mesh 5 button so that hop shouldn't be the issue. Isn't powerline fun.....

@IndyMike That's the interesting thing isn't it. Oddly it was the reverse happening when I had the keypadlinc as responders only to the scene command. I made all three controller/responders and it reversed. The house has three panels, A main that connects the old section, a sub panel for the outdoor kitchen, greenhouse (was a spa) etc outside, and a sub panel for the addition where the recording studio, guest room and editing room are. Logically the PLM is about as far from the main panel as possible, as are the three devices listed. I did add an i/o link on the wall from the old section, about 30 feet from the PLM to the new section because the new section wasn't working well at all. That solved the issue. It is a two story house so runs are not really that long in the old section. The PLM is located on the second floor in the screening room rack. I have considered moving it to the Living AV rack which is 3 feet from the panel, but there are no free outlets. The location has a lamplinc with the top controlled outlet running a lamp, and the bottom connected to the RackMaxx power filter in the AV rack. I put an 2456.S3 appliance link in the bedroom along with the keypadlinc's hoping that would solve what I agree to be a power line comm problem. X-10 will not work at that outlet at all. The keypadlincs turn the scene on and off perfectly, but the reverse isn't true. It is odd the switch works though and the Eisy see the switch position changes quite accurately. By the same note the keypadlinc status changes are also received by the Eisy correctly. The only issue is when the scene is set by the Eisy the keypadlinc's do not follow. I am going to find a noise filter/surge suppressor outlet and plug that in, maybe forcing the keypadlinc to RF only. and see what that does. I might also try a 2477D in the same spot as the 2476D

@Guy Lavoie I'll try that but I don't understand if the scene doesn't change the switch, how does the virtual switch work? To solve the three way issue I used the "scenes" as outlined in the ISY cookbook, and they work 99% of the time. I also extended that thought process and where I needed dual band keypads I used those keypads to show me lots of things like active motion zones. If I am in the recording studio and someone walks in the front door a keypad lights up. as they come up the stairs the next key lights etc. If they go the wrong way, I know to go get them. How did you set up the Virtual key program to monitor? Endless query loop?

@Guy Lavoie There are several scenes that don't sync, this morning it was the temperature scene but the one in question is a 4 set up with. 2476D Switchlinc Dimmer W Beeper 4.0 - The live load KeypadLinc Dimmer 5 Button V.43 Button 2 KeypadLinc Dimmer 5 Button V.45 Button 2 When the scene for all of these turns off, the 2476D turns off the other two remain "on" If I press any of the three buttons, they work as they should. Scene command from Insteon ok, ISY not so ok. I am guessing due to the lack of verification by ISY?

Jumping in on this, after just thinking I fixed my long running randomness which showed that programs run in a different order and at different relative times. I did some research into core logic and each processor has its own method for stacking accumulators. From what I can tell the Eisy accumulator stacks in FIFO order so whatever states were used most recently are checked last. However the software can read from the top of the stack so understanding the hardware bios doesn't appear helpful. Either way this would lead to some randomness and the humans in this house turn things on changing states at variable times. Today I was wondering why my heat was on with doors open. $sOpenWindow = 1 which sends a scene "Temp Peak Power". This turns the HVAC controllers in both zones off. While trying to figure out what is going on, the "Summary" tab of the programs page in the AC doesn't have a start time for 18 programs. Several of them have run since the last reboot to include Doors_Windows Open which should be running. It has been 30 minutes, and there is no "Last Run Time" in the Summary tab. Using the logic that Wait rechecks the IF this has worked well until today. Should last Run Time be the last "Start" time and the last finish time blank until it finishes? Right now I have all blank, heat on and $sOpenWindow is 0 but the Details page shows Doors_Windows Open to be true (green). Doors_Windows Open - [ID 000A][Parent 0001] If $sOpenWindow is 0 And 'ELK Alarm' Arm Up State is Not Ready To Arm Then Wait 10 minutes Run Program 'd_Doors_Windows Still Open' (If) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') // Used to shut off HVAC if Doors and Windows opened for extended periods of time, but delays shutdown long enough to prevent short cycling of system. d_Doors_Windows Still Open - [ID 0002][Parent 0001][Not Enabled] If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then $sOpenWindow = 1 Else Run Program 'Doors_Windows Closed' (If) // Used to prevent short term Door or Window openings from short cycling HVAC system - Program should be disabled as it is triggered by Doors_Windows Open Temp WinOpen + Peak - [ID 0031][Parent 004B] If $sOpenWindow is 1 Or Program 'Peak Power' is True Then Set 'Temp Scenes / Temp Peak Power' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')