epete

ok, so I see I can change the program to use the fast on command. I will see if this work around fixes the problem

I compared the settings on both micro dimmers. They are the same. And the back one operates properly. Really strange.

That was one of my first thoughts as well. The state stays "off" and the on stays at zero. While I am checking this I am also noticing when it is on and at 100% from the fast on button, clicking the on shuts it off. Maybe I have the device in a different mode.

I have two Micro Dimmers. One connected to my Front Porch Light and the other to my backyard patio light. I have then both setup in the same program to turn on at sunset and both to turn off at 1:30 AM The back light works fine The front has never turned itself on I was playing around today and noticed Pushing the On button from the Administrative Console does not turn the light on I assume that is the same as the on command in the program. When i use Fast On, the light comes on. It does not look like a communication / interference problem as that would be intermittent and I should see the same effect for fast on. I also note that the off command always works. So for about a month, I have been manually turning the light on and the program has been properly shutting it off.

I didn't even see that option. Thanks. I see it now. Thank you **UPDATE** This worked perfectly. Thanks.

I have a refrigerator / freezer in the basement. I installed Insteon door sensors on both refrigerator and freezer doors. If the door is open, I would like to set several insteon keypads throughout the house to chirp once per minute until the doors are closed. This will ensure no one has left the door open. I can figure out how to write a program to chirp once, but I would like a chirp per minute until both doors are closed. Does anyone know the most efficient code to implement this?

So after looking at it some more I have updated my drawing. So it looks like Cable 1 and 3 are the power passing through to feed some other area of the house. Cable 2 then goes to the switches. So in this case, maybe the micro module would have worked right at the light, but now I want to just use the keypad link and dimmer switch at the other location. Do I need to put a microlink in at the light a keypad for the first switch and a dimmer at the last location, costing me three devices instead of 2. **UPDATE** I have now rewired with a microlink at the lamp, a keypad link upstairs and dimmer link downstairs. Everything seems to be working electrically. Now it is time for programming. It turns out the second diagram posted in this link was correct.

I am now totally confused. I have totally disassembled the light. There are three 2 conductor cables. Cable 1:Ground all three grounds tied together, White Cable 1, Cable 3 and Lamp tied together, Black Cable 1 Cable 3 + White of cable 2 Tied Together Cable 2:Ground all three grounds tied together, Black Cable 1 Cable 3 + White of cable 2 Tied Together, Black Cable 2 + Red Lamp Tied together Cable 3:Ground all three grounds tied together, White Cable 1, Cable 3 and Lamp tied together Black Cable 1 Cable 3 + White of cable 2 Tied Together Lamp: White Cable 1, Cable 3 and Lamp tied together, Black Cable 2 + Red Lamp Tied together So maybe power is coming in at the light? And then feeding into the first switch that I thought was wired wrong?

OK, can you confirm that Line should be the wire that reads 120VAC between its conductor and ground? And that should be the white wire? Neutral should read nothing between its conductor and ground and should be the black wire? And finally the voltage between the black and white should also be 120VAC? I find it strange that the builder of my house would have wired it backwards (Neutral on white and Line on black) but that is what I think they did. I think the easiest way to check where the light is connected is if I remove the bulb and see what wire becomes open circuit. I can try that today. Finally, I will refer to the cables as 2 wire and 3 wire from this point forward given ground wire is not counted. Thanks

I am now planning my first 3 way install. I removed both switches to determine where the power was coming in and to try and determine where the light is wired in. I believe I have properly captured the way it is currently configured in the attached file One strange thing I noticed was the power coming in on the left doesn't seem to be wired correctly. When measuring the voltage between the white and ground, I see 120VAC. When checking between Black and Ground I don't see anything. So the White should probably be labeled Hot and the Black should be labeled Neutral. (Correct?) That would also explain why they connected the White wire (Power Side) to the Black Wire of the 4 wire cable. The light has two 4 wire cables coming in and I am 99% sure it is connected the way I drew it in the diagram. I would like to put a keypad link in the leftmost switch and a REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER SWITCH in the right most swith. I guess the keypad link will get the Neutral, Hot and Ground from the power side, then I can send the same Neutral, Hot and Ground from the power side down to the next outlet on the 4 conductor wire. I am just not sure how to connect the load onto the Remote Control Dimmer. The light is connected such that ine end is available at one switch and the other end at the other switch.

Thanks everyone. I have a large quantity of unopened SwitchLinks. I only installed a couple around the house and found my wife does not like the feel of them. I was trying to figure out a way to just reuse the switches that are already in the house. My home is now 98% LED so power isn't really a concern. As for burning the house down. My thought was one would be wired as a transmitter and receiver and connected to neutral, line and load. The other locations would just be transmitter that would link to the first. Maybe that isn't possible and I really haven't put enough thought into it. Anyway, I will wait until the weekend when I can make more time.

Agreed, however, there is no reason that all of these conductors will be in a switch box. But I will figure out my specific wiring this weekend. I suspect I wont be able to have a single Insteon Micro Dimmer on a 3 or 4 way switch and will most likely have to go with one per switch. I guess I was looking for confirmation that I was thinking correctly. The diagram posted by MFBra is misleading as it would not be very common.

So this requires I find a junction box that has Neutral, Ground, Line, Traveler and load. It seems to me, I will be missing Load on the first switch and line last switch. So where does this module get installed where all connections are available?

Great. I will follow the thread out of interest. The UL issue is making me lean towards implimenting bulbs, if I can ever get my hands on any.

...and wish me luck finding anyone willing to sell four of these. Dimmable Ballast Bypass Bulbs are not common for the consumer market. Thanks for showing me though, Until now, I didn't think any existed.

That's why so many products are powered by external UL approved AC Adapters. Cuts the cost of getting the whole product UL Listed.

I did some searching on dimmable LED T8 Tubes. I see they require dimmable ballasts. So if I go this route, I will need to purchase two 2-bulb dimmable ballasts. These are not cheap and the bulbs are more expensive. I am not convinced that going the LED Driver + LED Strips will be any less epensive and may not work as well. So do the MiLight controllers interface with ISY?

OK, yes. I have soldered LED Strips with and without the silicone protective seal. If I purchased strip lights I would look for strips that dont use the silicone. My Florescent fixture has a frosted cover so the strips should be fully hidden anyway. I also have solderless connectors that dont perform very well. I much prefer solder. So how would I power these strips. I asume I need to put power on the proper combination of pins that gibe the combined color of the 4100K White.

All of the Ballast bypass tubes are non dimmable. I didn't think tubes designed to be used with a ballast would be compatible with the Insteon switch. https://a89b8e4143ca50438f09-7c1706ba3fabeeda794725d88e4f5e57.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/spec_sheets/files/000/038/192/original/green-creative-97833-dimmer-comp.pdf?1456241917 Above is a link to a dimmable tube that lists the compatible dimmers. I would definitely consider these bulbs if I knew they would work. If buying my own driver and LED Strips would perform better as I would have control of the driver, then hat would be my preference.

At this point I was planning to cut them into four 4 foot lengths and use the double stick tape to tape directly onto the 2X4 foot lamp fixture. So there would be no tubes, I see the LED Drivers like to be used at >50% of the rated power so depending on the power rating of the driver, I will design for the strips to use ~90% of the rated power and either use two 26W or one 48W Driver. Not sure what you mean by folded back, maybe you meant so there are lights on either side of the strip. I think for the 2X4 enclosure, it may be better to simply tape the strip to the housing where each of the 4 tubes would have been. This will make sure the light is directed downward and evenly distribute the light over the entire fixture. For SMD5050 RGBWW, I see this https://www.amazon.com/BZONE%C2%AE-Flexible-SMD5050-Non-waterproof-Multicolor/dp/B01ABC7PMM/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1472569182&sr=1-1&keywords=SMD5050+RGBWW+strips I see 4 pins on these. I assume one is ground and the other three are power for the Red, Green and Blue. Not sure how I would connect this to get the 3000-3500K white. It also doesnt tell me the power consumption per foot.

After thinking about this some more, I realized I cannot use tubes as they already have their own drivers built in. So I will look for double density SMD3528 Strips

Thanks. I assume this is the driver you are talking about https://www.amazon.com/Pack-ONE-Dimmable-Driver-approved/dp/B00AH2OX5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472510505&sr=8-1&keywords=EV-12V-1000-12D It says it is only 12W, so I am thinking it may not be good to connect to four of these https://www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-equivalent-Single-Ended-DLC-Qualified-Tombstones/dp/B00NXBMDEY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472511270&sr=8-3&keywords=4%27+led+t8 In fact it says these tubes are 18W each so probably wont even drive one Then going back to my LED Strip idea, I could simply use these by cutting it into four, 4 foot strips https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Flexible-300xSMD3528-Adhesive-2026WH/dp/B007JF2A6G/ref=sr_1_39?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1472511785&sr=1-39&keywords=led%2Blight%2Bstrip&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_four_browse-bin%3A7802632011 These are 24W total so I could use two drivers to drive two 4 foot strips each and then connect both drives to the same Insteon Dimmer. Any ideas on what I should look for on strip lights? I want 4000K White, but other than that, do some strips have better LEDs than others? Do they have different spacing? Am I better off looking for a higher wattage Driver? Maybe even something that can handle 50W and just get the tubes? Just looking for opinions before I purchase anything.

I can live with with the dimming limitations and can probably swap out my LED Driver in the future if this is a problem. Thanks for your help

I have an old 2X4' T12 Florescent Ceiling lamp that takes 4 T12 Bulbs. I would love to gut the lamp (remove ballasts and bulbs) and replace with four 4 foot strips of LED Tape. I wanted t know if anyone was familiar with the LED Drivers that go from the 120VAC and provide the 12V DC output. Some are dimmable with "MLV TRIAC" Dimming switches. I am wondering what I need to look for to be compatible with Insteon so I can connect the driver to an Insteon Dimmer.

I had the 6 buttons on. All working now