epete

That's why so many products are powered by external UL approved AC Adapters. Cuts the cost of getting the whole product UL Listed.

I did some searching on dimmable LED T8 Tubes. I see they require dimmable ballasts. So if I go this route, I will need to purchase two 2-bulb dimmable ballasts. These are not cheap and the bulbs are more expensive. I am not convinced that going the LED Driver + LED Strips will be any less epensive and may not work as well. So do the MiLight controllers interface with ISY?

OK, yes. I have soldered LED Strips with and without the silicone protective seal. If I purchased strip lights I would look for strips that dont use the silicone. My Florescent fixture has a frosted cover so the strips should be fully hidden anyway. I also have solderless connectors that dont perform very well. I much prefer solder. So how would I power these strips. I asume I need to put power on the proper combination of pins that gibe the combined color of the 4100K White.

All of the Ballast bypass tubes are non dimmable. I didn't think tubes designed to be used with a ballast would be compatible with the Insteon switch. https://a89b8e4143ca50438f09-7c1706ba3fabeeda794725d88e4f5e57.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/spec_sheets/files/000/038/192/original/green-creative-97833-dimmer-comp.pdf?1456241917 Above is a link to a dimmable tube that lists the compatible dimmers. I would definitely consider these bulbs if I knew they would work. If buying my own driver and LED Strips would perform better as I would have control of the driver, then hat would be my preference.

At this point I was planning to cut them into four 4 foot lengths and use the double stick tape to tape directly onto the 2X4 foot lamp fixture. So there would be no tubes, I see the LED Drivers like to be used at >50% of the rated power so depending on the power rating of the driver, I will design for the strips to use ~90% of the rated power and either use two 26W or one 48W Driver. Not sure what you mean by folded back, maybe you meant so there are lights on either side of the strip. I think for the 2X4 enclosure, it may be better to simply tape the strip to the housing where each of the 4 tubes would have been. This will make sure the light is directed downward and evenly distribute the light over the entire fixture. For SMD5050 RGBWW, I see this https://www.amazon.com/BZONE%C2%AE-Flexible-SMD5050-Non-waterproof-Multicolor/dp/B01ABC7PMM/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1472569182&sr=1-1&keywords=SMD5050+RGBWW+strips I see 4 pins on these. I assume one is ground and the other three are power for the Red, Green and Blue. Not sure how I would connect this to get the 3000-3500K white. It also doesnt tell me the power consumption per foot.

After thinking about this some more, I realized I cannot use tubes as they already have their own drivers built in. So I will look for double density SMD3528 Strips

Thanks. I assume this is the driver you are talking about https://www.amazon.com/Pack-ONE-Dimmable-Driver-approved/dp/B00AH2OX5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472510505&sr=8-1&keywords=EV-12V-1000-12D It says it is only 12W, so I am thinking it may not be good to connect to four of these https://www.amazon.com/Hyperikon-equivalent-Single-Ended-DLC-Qualified-Tombstones/dp/B00NXBMDEY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472511270&sr=8-3&keywords=4%27+led+t8 In fact it says these tubes are 18W each so probably wont even drive one Then going back to my LED Strip idea, I could simply use these by cutting it into four, 4 foot strips https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Flexible-300xSMD3528-Adhesive-2026WH/dp/B007JF2A6G/ref=sr_1_39?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1472511785&sr=1-39&keywords=led%2Blight%2Bstrip&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_four_browse-bin%3A7802632011 These are 24W total so I could use two drivers to drive two 4 foot strips each and then connect both drives to the same Insteon Dimmer. Any ideas on what I should look for on strip lights? I want 4000K White, but other than that, do some strips have better LEDs than others? Do they have different spacing? Am I better off looking for a higher wattage Driver? Maybe even something that can handle 50W and just get the tubes? Just looking for opinions before I purchase anything.

I can live with with the dimming limitations and can probably swap out my LED Driver in the future if this is a problem. Thanks for your help

I have an old 2X4' T12 Florescent Ceiling lamp that takes 4 T12 Bulbs. I would love to gut the lamp (remove ballasts and bulbs) and replace with four 4 foot strips of LED Tape. I wanted t know if anyone was familiar with the LED Drivers that go from the 120VAC and provide the 12V DC output. Some are dimmable with "MLV TRIAC" Dimming switches. I am wondering what I need to look for to be compatible with Insteon so I can connect the driver to an Insteon Dimmer.

I had the 6 buttons on. All working now

Thanks Techman! I just got off the phone with Insteon. My problem was that I wasn't firmly holding teh On/Off Buttons and in order for this to reset to a 6 button device, both the left and right sides of the on and off buttons need to be pressed.

When Changing from 8 to 6, you must press firmly on the On and Off Buttons so that both left and right sides of the Off and On Buttons are pressed for 3 Seconds. Alternately, if you still have the 8 buttons on, you would press and hold the On/Off+B+G+H buttons (for 3 seconds) while pressing the set button flush with the frame.

...So, Insteon must have mised up my plates on my first two refurbished KPLs. I purchased one 8 key and one 6 key. Above you see I had trouble with my my 8 button kpl coming up as a 6 button device. Thanks to all I got the first changed from 6 to 8. Now I need this second 8 button converted to 6. I see the instructions are the same, with the exception they say to put the 6 plastic buttons on first. then they say to pul out the setting button for 10S and then press+hold the On+off buttons while pressing teh settings button fush to the frame and hold the on+0ff for 3 sec. So my first question is What is the on and off buttons. Since it is in 8 button mode with the on button covering two A+B and the off covering G+H, are they saying it doesn't matter? I have tried multiple combos of this and the ISY keeps linking with 8 keys Given the instructions going from 8 to 6 is the same as 6 to 8 I am assuming If I did this twice it should end up back to the 8 key device.

Ahhh, I finally get it. In the action setting I thought I was supposed to select Set Scene. But this option is under Insteon, and then you find the scene like it is a device. Thank You

I am still trying to grasp the basics here. So I understand the best way to use a key from a keypad link is to create a scene and then set the key as both a controller and responder to that scene. This way the LED Light on the key will stay synchronized with the devices in the scene. So I have a lamp that was set with a program to turn on 30 minutes before sunset and turn off at 1:00 AM. That worked fine. Then my Keypadlinc arrived and I made a scene where a key would control the lamp. The timer still worked byt the LED did not turn on/off with the timer. So I changed the program to work on the scene. The option that was available was If Time is Sunset - 30 Minutes Then In Scene 'LR Lamp' Set 'Living Room Lamp' 100% (On Level) I have a similar program to adjust the scene to 0% (On Level) at 1:00 AM. But these two programs don't seem to do anything. They were working fine without the LED when linked directly to the device.

Wow, thanks for the answers. This is so helpful.

Ok, works. I guess it takes methodically going through each step. Anyway, there are some questions above that I would still love answers to to help my understanding. Now to try programming the bottom keys.

OK, I think I can proceed a bit more without messing things up 8. I renamed KeypadLink Keys 1, B, C and D to 1=FR Fan High, B=FR Fan Off, C=FR Fan Med, D=FR Fan Low 9. I highlighted Fan Motor, FR Fan High, FR Fan Off, FR Fan Med and FR Fan Low in the tree, right clicked and selected Add to Scene. I choose the FR Fan High and Changed FR Fan High Button to Controller, left the rest as responders. 10. I repeated step 9 for Off, Med and Low making the Off, Med or Low keys as Controllers respectivly and leaving the others as responders. 11. I then went to the Scene Level for each of the 4 scenes to set the scene. a. For High Fan Scene Motor set to high, FR Fan High Key On Level to 100, Ramp Rate 0.1S All other keys On Level set to 0 b. For Off Fan Scene Motor set to off, FR Fan Off Key On Level to 100, Ramp Rate 0.1S All other keys On Level set to 0 c. For Med Fan Scene Motor set to off, FR Fan Med Key On Level to 100, Ramp Rate 0.1S All other keys On Level set to 0 d. For Low Fan Scene Motor set to off, FR Fan Low Key On Level to 100, Ramp Rate 0.1S All other keys On Level set to 0 12. Then I went to the Controller Key in each scene and set the Fan Speed to the same setting as defined by the key name and scene. a. For High Fan Key Motor set to high, FR Fan High Key On Level to 100, Ramp Rate 0.1S All other keys On Level set to 0 b. For Off Fan Scene Motor set to off, FR Fan Off Key Does not display so there is no action to set On Level to 100, All other keys On Level set to 0 c. For Med Fan Scene Motor set to off, FR Fan Med Key Does not display so there is no action to set On Level to 100, All other keys On Level set to 0 d. For Low Fan Scene Motor set to off, FR Fan Low Key Does not display so there is no action to set On Level to 100, All other keys On Level set to 0 At this point, I think I am done and will now test to see if it works. I suspect it wont but crossing my fingers.

I am starting over. I just cannot get it to work. 1. I re-watched the ISY/Device Scene Config video 2. I removed all links from my scenes 3. I removed the keypadlink from ISY 4. Performed a factory reset on the keypadlink. It went back to 6 button mode so I performed a 6 to 8 button mode reset Question - I see most people using the 6 button keypad and using the A, B, C and D buttons. I am using the 8 Button mode with A (on/off) B, C and D and not programming E, F, G or H yet. I have the load wire on the keypad kink capped off and the fan has continuous power. So I am just looking to use the A Key for an Insteon signal to the PLM Scene with no On/off Dimming on the load wire. Is this a valid way to use the product or is this what is messing me up? 5. I clicked on Link Management, Start Linking from the ISY Admin Console and pressed the keypadlink set button until it beeped. The Admin Console found and added "2334-2 Dimmer 5 buttons V43" with 8 entries 29.21.0F.1, 29.21.0F.B, 29.21.0F.C, ..., 29.21.0F.H. I want to use 1=High, B=Off, C=Med, D=Off Question - What is the "2334-2 Dimmer 5 Buttons" KeypadLink? Why do others get a 2586D KeypadLink dimmer? Did I get the wrong device? 6. I created a folder called Family Room and then created 4 scenes in that folder FR Fan High, FR Fan Low, FR Fan Medium, FR Fan off 7. Highlighting the Keypad Links 29.21.0F.1 button and under Buttons Toggle Mode set all buttons "All Non Toggle" off Questions - There seems to be three options Non-Toggle On, Non Toggle Off, Toggle. What is the difference between the three? I assume toggle means pressing a button changes the state of the button from on to off or off to on. Does Non Toggle On mean it sends an on command every time you press the button and the non toggle off sends the off command every time you press the button? When this button is set as a controller in a scene does any action trigger the scene? So if I am in Toggle mode and I go from on to off or off to on, does that trigger the scene? If I am in Non Toggle Off mode and I press the button and it sends an off signal, does that also trigger the scene? How are the LED Backlights controlled? It seems that in toggle mode, when going from off to on, the backlight turns on. When going from on to off, the backlight goes off. Correct? I assumed adding a button as a responder in a scene is what allows me to control the key backlight. Maybe this is only in Non Toggle Mode. Mutually Exclusive - When selecting Button Grouping I assume I want Button 1, B, C and D to be Mutually exclusive. If I were to configure this in the Button Grouping section there are 8 sections at the top. One section for each button. The button for each section seems to be the bold text button address at the top of the list in each section with a check box checked in DIM or Gray font. The other button addresses are listed below with check boxes and are unchecked. Is this where one would make teh buttons mutually exclusive? Do I check the B, C and D under the 1 section; the 1, C and D under the B Section, ... and the 1, B and C under the D Section then ignore the E through H sections? When doing so, it warns me that I can mess up a scene so I have always canceled out but wondered what this was for. I also see the Mutually Exclusive Button tree at the bottom listing all 8 buttons and what looks to be 4 Mutually exclusive button scenes. I would really love to understand this screen? I am stopping here and canceling out of the Grouping option. I have not added any buttons as controllers or responders or any fan motor settings as responders yet as I want to make sure I am doing this correctly this time. So what are my next steps?

Alright, I must be missing some important concepts about the keypad link, scenes, responders and controllers. Under ISY, the Keypad Link shows as a device. It seems I can change the toggle mode, grouping options and LED Brightness. This is where I was setting the Toggle mode to All Non-Toggle off or all Toggle. I would think I would want non toggle so a press of the button does not change a state but simply sends a signal to the proper scene to enable it. I also see at the scene name level, I have slide controls for the controller button (On Level=100?), the responder buttons that I want to set the LED to off (On Level = 0?) and the Fan Motor and the desired level defined by the controller button and what I want the controller button to do to the fan. So if the controller button is Fan High, I want Fan Motor On Level to be set to high. Correct? But then if I go to the controller button in the Scene, I get the same options. I see they did not follow what I set in the scene name level. So I set these to the same, but I really don't know what the difference is. I am definitely not understanding some concept here.

well, it was wishful thinking. Thanks again. I have them all set to non toggle. I will change that, but isn't non toggle what I want?

I am trying to replicate the Keypadlink with my fan using the instructions here http://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/8205-programming-fanlinc/ In my case I want to use the top 4 buttons for Fan High, Medium, Low, Off. I wanted to use the bottom 4 buttons for other items such as garage door, fireplace, status of basement refrigerator door being closed (sometimes left open by kids)... So I set the mode so that all buttons have toggle set to off. The keypad now has the first two key lights on. When I click on B, the light blinks for a few seconds and returns to fully lit. I assume if I program the top 4 buttons using scenes as described in the above topic it the LEDs will fix themselves. I wasnt sure what to do about the mutually exclusive option as I think the scene takes care of this. I also assume button grouping should not be touched.

ok, in step 4 I was pressing the set button al the way, it should be just flush. I have successfully reset it to an 8 scene device. Thank You for pushing me in the right direction.

OK, I did the reset. In step 5, the keypad link beeped after 3 seconds before I released the [On/Off] + [H]. I assume I was doing it correct. Adding it back and it still says 2334-2 Dimmer 5 buttons V43

ah, it was a refurbished keypad from Sharthome.com. Maybe I got the wrong device with the plastic buttons for the 8?