epete

I even tried using the ISY's IP address 192.168.1.11/admin.jnlp and see the same, so I am wondering if java is launching something else that is in memory

That is where I got the launcher in the link above 7. Launch the 5.3.0 Admin Console and/or Dashboard by going to the following link: - https://isy.universal-devices.com/start.jnlp

I have been having trouble getting Local Admin Console to launch on my Surface Pro7. I have loaded the latest version of JRE 8.0.7.0. I have cleared the Java Cache (several times). Since I have Admin Console FW 5.3.0 loaded on my ISY, I am using the https://isy.universal-devices.com/start.jnlp Console. The problem I am seeing is a version mismatch stating I have Admin Console v.5.0.16C and ISY Firmware v.5.3.0. What step have I missed? By the way, I have no problem accessing using the same link from my HP Desktop PC.

I cannot figure out the install instructions from 4.7.3. I have updated my Java, Cleared my Java Cache, Backed up my system. Downloaded As I use PLM. I also just purchased the Z Wave HW Module and will install later. Launched selected upgrade option then browsed to the "insteon_5.0.16B" zip file from the download firmware step. After letting the files upload, I get "Upgrade Failed: Failed uploading file (reported written size is invalid)" and "The ISY was not upgraded" ***UPDATE*** 4-Jan 2020 I successfully upgraded. I believe my problem was that I did not use the java parameter -Xmx512m

Thanks. With X10, there just weren't that many variables. Now there are several that all interact with each other. I guess I am still stuck in those x10 days.

ok, by you forcing me to type that out, I figured it out. It was my local level causing the problem. Thank You The on level [applied locally] was set at 0 and needed to be set at 100

OK, I think I understand what you are trying to tell me. However there are three levels 1. On Level 2. Current State 3. On Level [Applied Locally] I believe the level I set locally is the level it should always default to using the On button, correct? Unless as you mentioned there is some interaction with a scene.

OK, right now the state says Off but the level is 100%. I was downstairs at the switch and manually turned it on.

OK, so it thinks on is on at 0%. Is that what you are telling me? This was a refurb, not sure if that may have something to do with it.

ok, Clicking on the device and looking at the membership it does not show any connections.

I dont recall putting this device in a scene, but maybe i did. let me check.

ok, so I see I can change the program to use the fast on command. I will see if this work around fixes the problem

I compared the settings on both micro dimmers. They are the same. And the back one operates properly. Really strange.

That was one of my first thoughts as well. The state stays "off" and the on stays at zero. While I am checking this I am also noticing when it is on and at 100% from the fast on button, clicking the on shuts it off. Maybe I have the device in a different mode.

I have two Micro Dimmers. One connected to my Front Porch Light and the other to my backyard patio light. I have then both setup in the same program to turn on at sunset and both to turn off at 1:30 AM The back light works fine The front has never turned itself on I was playing around today and noticed Pushing the On button from the Administrative Console does not turn the light on I assume that is the same as the on command in the program. When i use Fast On, the light comes on. It does not look like a communication / interference problem as that would be intermittent and I should see the same effect for fast on. I also note that the off command always works. So for about a month, I have been manually turning the light on and the program has been properly shutting it off.

I didn't even see that option. Thanks. I see it now. Thank you **UPDATE** This worked perfectly. Thanks.

I have a refrigerator / freezer in the basement. I installed Insteon door sensors on both refrigerator and freezer doors. If the door is open, I would like to set several insteon keypads throughout the house to chirp once per minute until the doors are closed. This will ensure no one has left the door open. I can figure out how to write a program to chirp once, but I would like a chirp per minute until both doors are closed. Does anyone know the most efficient code to implement this?

So after looking at it some more I have updated my drawing. So it looks like Cable 1 and 3 are the power passing through to feed some other area of the house. Cable 2 then goes to the switches. So in this case, maybe the micro module would have worked right at the light, but now I want to just use the keypad link and dimmer switch at the other location. Do I need to put a microlink in at the light a keypad for the first switch and a dimmer at the last location, costing me three devices instead of 2. **UPDATE** I have now rewired with a microlink at the lamp, a keypad link upstairs and dimmer link downstairs. Everything seems to be working electrically. Now it is time for programming. It turns out the second diagram posted in this link was correct.

I am now totally confused. I have totally disassembled the light. There are three 2 conductor cables. Cable 1:Ground all three grounds tied together, White Cable 1, Cable 3 and Lamp tied together, Black Cable 1 Cable 3 + White of cable 2 Tied Together Cable 2:Ground all three grounds tied together, Black Cable 1 Cable 3 + White of cable 2 Tied Together, Black Cable 2 + Red Lamp Tied together Cable 3:Ground all three grounds tied together, White Cable 1, Cable 3 and Lamp tied together Black Cable 1 Cable 3 + White of cable 2 Tied Together Lamp: White Cable 1, Cable 3 and Lamp tied together, Black Cable 2 + Red Lamp Tied together So maybe power is coming in at the light? And then feeding into the first switch that I thought was wired wrong?

OK, can you confirm that Line should be the wire that reads 120VAC between its conductor and ground? And that should be the white wire? Neutral should read nothing between its conductor and ground and should be the black wire? And finally the voltage between the black and white should also be 120VAC? I find it strange that the builder of my house would have wired it backwards (Neutral on white and Line on black) but that is what I think they did. I think the easiest way to check where the light is connected is if I remove the bulb and see what wire becomes open circuit. I can try that today. Finally, I will refer to the cables as 2 wire and 3 wire from this point forward given ground wire is not counted. Thanks

I am now planning my first 3 way install. I removed both switches to determine where the power was coming in and to try and determine where the light is wired in. I believe I have properly captured the way it is currently configured in the attached file One strange thing I noticed was the power coming in on the left doesn't seem to be wired correctly. When measuring the voltage between the white and ground, I see 120VAC. When checking between Black and Ground I don't see anything. So the White should probably be labeled Hot and the Black should be labeled Neutral. (Correct?) That would also explain why they connected the White wire (Power Side) to the Black Wire of the 4 wire cable. The light has two 4 wire cables coming in and I am 99% sure it is connected the way I drew it in the diagram. I would like to put a keypad link in the leftmost switch and a REMOTE CONTROL DIMMER SWITCH in the right most swith. I guess the keypad link will get the Neutral, Hot and Ground from the power side, then I can send the same Neutral, Hot and Ground from the power side down to the next outlet on the 4 conductor wire. I am just not sure how to connect the load onto the Remote Control Dimmer. The light is connected such that ine end is available at one switch and the other end at the other switch.

Thanks everyone. I have a large quantity of unopened SwitchLinks. I only installed a couple around the house and found my wife does not like the feel of them. I was trying to figure out a way to just reuse the switches that are already in the house. My home is now 98% LED so power isn't really a concern. As for burning the house down. My thought was one would be wired as a transmitter and receiver and connected to neutral, line and load. The other locations would just be transmitter that would link to the first. Maybe that isn't possible and I really haven't put enough thought into it. Anyway, I will wait until the weekend when I can make more time.

Agreed, however, there is no reason that all of these conductors will be in a switch box. But I will figure out my specific wiring this weekend. I suspect I wont be able to have a single Insteon Micro Dimmer on a 3 or 4 way switch and will most likely have to go with one per switch. I guess I was looking for confirmation that I was thinking correctly. The diagram posted by MFBra is misleading as it would not be very common.

So this requires I find a junction box that has Neutral, Ground, Line, Traveler and load. It seems to me, I will be missing Load on the first switch and line last switch. So where does this module get installed where all connections are available?

Great. I will follow the thread out of interest. The UL issue is making me lean towards implimenting bulbs, if I can ever get my hands on any.