MrBill

I agree with @larryllix use search to see if you have another program controlling the device. Also sometime watching the "Programs" > "Summary" tab in the Admin Console can help find never ending loops. You can sort that page in various ways by clicking the column heading, clicking it twice reverses the sort order. "Activity" twice will put "Running" programs at the top (under any folders). "Last Run Time" twice may be beneficial also.

Each Controller in scene has it's own scene attributes. In your case there are 2 scene controllers: "IRLinc E" and the ISY itself (whose scene attributes are set at the root level of the scene or as shown in your screenshot "Theater TV end"). In other words the root level scene is what happens when the ISY itself controls the scene, each RED Controller entry in the tree also has its own attributes that must be configured.

I'm not certain that you gave UDI a fair chance. Sure they may give standard answers the first time around, I know it's frustrating. I went through this with them a few months ago, I couldn't get the admin console to open. Just like with your problem, they told me to do all the things I had already told them I had already done. I was a bit frustrated because there was a simple thing I set out to accomplish that day and it was suddenly taking hours. You know what happened next? Michel opened up a remote session and spent an hour with me sorting out an ugly java issue. I also know that you don't need to initiate a chargeback through Paypal. UDI always happily refunds anyone for anything when they ask.

If you mean that in the admin console on the portal tab of the configuration section it says "registered" but that's still showing pending in the portal, then perhaps refresh the portal page, or even shift-refresh the portal page. If that doesn't help log out of the portal and log back in, if that still didn't help open a support ticket support@universal-devices.com

Are these strips 5050, 2835, 3528, etc? or are they individually addressable--which is different technology. ? Assuming 5050, 2835, 3528 style, that's an unusual problem. Green Lights is a single LED of the RGB color scheme, purple is not--it's a combination of Red and Blue. When we diagnose problems with this style strip the best test is to set GREEN and observe, then set BLUE and observe, then set RED and observe. All other colors are just a combination of those three. What we normally see completing that test is that sections of the strip just don't light under one or two of those 3 color combinations, they don't suddenly make a mixed color--like purple. Anyway if it's a 5050-like strip as discussed in this paragraph and your getting weird results in a single section of the strip, not where it's been cut, then it likely means the strip has been physically damaged at that point, and is likely beyond normal repair.

I'd recommend updating to 5.0.16C at least, as it's the most stable of the 5.0.X releases. There really isn't much "new" for Insteon because Insteon hasn't changed much. That said, there should be some much needed Insteon bug fixes coming soon sometime in the future.

Posting some screen shots might help. This forum makes that easy, if you're on windows press [Windows Key][Shift][S] to open the snipping tool, make a screen grab, which goes to your clipboard automatically. Then when replying to this thread just press Ctrl-V and your screen grab will be pasted into the message. Also, The most commonly misunderstood part of scene programming is that each controller in a scene has it's own attributes. If switch A, B, and C are all controllers each has it's own scene settings or attributes. Then the Scene itself also has a set of scene settings or attributes, those are used when the ISY is the controller.

The Insteon on/off Outdoor Module has an LED next to the outlet. The LED is Red when the module is off, and Green when it's on. and of course LED off (or unlit) would indicate the module itself isn't getting power. Next time it's "off" when it's supposed to be on check that LED. If the module is actually turning off (red LED) that's not reflected by the KPL (still ON) as you indicate, then I would use the FIND feature in the admin console to look for other programs that are addressing the Device (Outdoor Module) itself and not the scene. Edit to add: Also in the admin console: Tools > Diagnostics > Show Device Links Table. After that runs use the "Compare" button to find out if the links in the device are what the ISY expects to be there. If not, right click the device and "Restore Device". If all else fails try a factory reset of the Device, followed by Restore Device as above.

I have to defend UDI on this one. If they were a larger company maybe not, but for a company the size of UDI the roadmap is going to be ever changing. After a discussion in another thread, I spent considerable time yesterday afternoon reflecting on this. Lets make up a hypothetical. Lets say the Energy Engineers from the state of Yahtzeetah called up UDI and said we'll give you a guarantee for 50,000 ISY's over the next 12 months if you can support our emerging Y-wave protocol for load shedding by the end of this year. It would probably be stupid for UDI to pass up that deal. But guess what? All development priorities just changed! That said, while I understand ever changing priorities and the difficulties of publishing a roadmap for this size of organization, I don't understand why some much needed bug fixes to a Beta, that calls it current releases "RC"s, are allowed to sit and collect dust and cobwebs for multiple years.

Another tool that I find easier when troubleshooting duplicates is to log into https://alexa.amazon.com from a laptop and full web browser. (I find it easier to review long lists than the app.)

Comcast has HORRIBLE DNS, and one of the problems is they may redirect fails to advertising. Haven't used google DNS in years, because I hate google's data collection and profiling, at one time google DNS was also sluggish at times (but since I haven't used it in recent history I can't say). I point everything on my network to my router (ubiquiti) for DNS, the router caches and uses 1.1.1.1 (cloudflare), 208.67.222.222 (open DNS), or 9.9.9.9 (Quad9) in that order for any required lookups.

the setting does go away everytime Java updates.

That instruction is also included in the first post of this thread with the installation instructions for 5.2. Look for the section appropriately titled "Java runtime memory (when Admin Console is very slow to respond)"

If the first statement is correct it sounds more like a JAVA problem with the admin console. Before compounding the issue I would encourage you to open a ticket with UDI support. support@universal-devices.com

@coreywilner I had that problem with mobilinc pro and actually quit using mobilinc for that and another reason. After the thread the @TrojanHorse linked came around I tried to get mobilinc to fail again, it never does, but we also don't use it like we used to, so it's hard to say why it happens, but you're not dreaming. My recommendation is for Agave as a replacement. Agave actually makes it easier to connect directly on your home network when home or through the portal when you are away. there is another half dozen items that are a toss up as to which is better in some cases agave wins in others mobilinc pro. I agree with others tho, auto rebooting the ISY in not the answer.

The ISY does not have an internal battery. The ISY uses an SD card as it's non-volatile memory or "hard disk". If you experienced failure during a power outage it may be indicative that it's time to replace the SD card (although I don't think SD cards normally fail with that symptom, but it's possible.)

Looks like a twist lock plug, I can't tell which NEMA configuration. Is it 240V or 120V? 240v 20 amp grounded is likely NEMA L6-20. if that's the case you could utilize a definite purpose contractor (big relay) with a 120v coil and then use the Insteon on/off device of your choice to power the coil.

It appears you have multiple accounts both on the forum AND on the portal. This likely requires direct help from universal-devices to untangle.

Add the button that is not being turned off to the scene that the button in the bedroom controls. When you add the button to the scene the bedroom is controlling it will be a responder.

Correct, don't unzip the file. I try downloading the file again, and ensure that you are downloading the correct file. (there is a choice of 2, see the first post of this thread.)

Click the Phillips Warm Glow link in my last post. You'll be pleasantly suprised at the variety, and it's what I use with Insteaon Dimmers.

thanks. can lights, recessed can, recessed light, pot lights all familiar terms.... calling them top hats tho is new for us. @uffy bulb wise if you want to use an Insteon Dimmer I'd recommend "Phillips Warm Glow" they dim very incandescent like (getting warmer in color as they dim) and don't seem to flicker at low levels. I don't know of any recessed light with integrated bulbs that aren't cheap chinese junk, other than again Phillips, but this time Hue.

What is a top hat light? I'm not familiar with that term. My wife who owned a high end lighting store for many years doesn't know either.

Pushover does not send SMS. check out pushover, you can change sounds. and as previously mentioned you can override iOS do-not-disturb with a priority 2 message.

I believe the method in post 2 of this thread will detect either the local internet going offline, or the portal going offline. the "trick" is the ISY uses a network resource to post back to itself thru the portal. It's assumed the local internet is what we are looking for to be offline, but naturally if the portal instead failed the same thing would occur, a break in the clever loop created.