MrBill

there was a bug where the log didn't display in the GUI. Try to check for Polisy updates and then update, then reboot again. my version is 2.2.13 and I have logs again.

Here is a link to UDI's direct store: https://www.universal-devices.com/store/ I suspect that if "it's not always happy" you need to do some troubleshooting. Could be lots of issues from communications, to poorly written programs, to network errors. We can generally help figure things out but we need a bit more information to get started. tell us what the issues are.

Last nights release to 0.0.9 is amazing. I worked with it for a little while the morning and the addition of favorites is my favorite so far!

The box on the first tab is greyed out because it's not just a tickbox anymore. if you click change location there is now a dropdown at the bottom of the page.

I like it, no one will see it tho ???

Don't forget to use the Invisible Bold Red ink !! ??

If the blue light is next to Port A it's part of the 300 series Z-wave board. the 300 series board is only compatible up to and including ISY firmware version 5.0.16C. For all firmware after that version you need a 500 series board. See this link for more info on special pricing if you need to upgrade. You may need to have the device closer to pair, there may also be a need for establishing repeaters.... if you're new to z-wave we should get @lilyoyo1 to link his post on creating z-wave networks.

It's chris's fault... he used that invisible bold red ink.

You have a series 300 z-wave board. The first lines of the first post of this thread state: its fairly simple to upgrade the z-wave board. see here for special pricing: https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=Z-Wave:_Ordering/Assembly_Instructions If you do not upgrade the hardware you will need to stay on version 5.0.16C and not upgrade further.

Does your ISY have a BLUE LED on the back next to Port A (shine the flashlight on your phone on it if it's not lit).. If so it means you have a 300 series z-wave board and 5.0.16C is the highest version you can use. What version where you coming from when you got in trouble.

if you haven't opened a ticket yet email support@universal-devices.com

@Tedsan if you do have the blue light series 300 board that reports z-wave version 4.55 as mentioned by @DennisC then you should roll back to version 5.0.16c, that is the highest version number of ISY firmware that will work with series 300 z-wave boards.

did you add any programs to the ISY? If so please paste those also.

Duplicate thread: lets keep all the responses in the other one:

Good to know that it worked out for you. Let us know if you have more questions.

Not on topic for this forum, but the answer can only be found in the manufacturer's documentation. Some coils might be rated for continuous duty while others may only be made for intermittent use. Generally with door strike the models that are meant for continuous duty are quiet. If they are noisy (buzz) they likely are not for continuous duty.

that sounds more like a scene issue than an Alexa issue. Alexa uses the root scene configuration. what happens if you try to turn the scene on using the on button at the bottom of the admin console?

After you made changes in the portal, did you say "Alexa, discover devices"? Also she doesn't always deal with things that have duplicate names correctly. If you have duplicate names then delete both, and tell her to discover devices again. Also I find it easier to find duplicates by using a full web browser via laptop and logging into https://alexa.amazon.com if none of those help I'm out of suggestions.

yep... I use an ubiquiti ER-12 currently. I started with an ER-X but needed an upgrade when I switched the primary connection to 1gig. As I mentioned above Re: the tp-link I was needing a dual wan router, I use a second LTE modem as backup. The edgerouter line is solid, the DHCP and Routing tables with both take whatever you can throw at them (unlike consumer routers that have limited size in for both tables). Much like a certain automation controller we all love they have V1 firmware and V2 firmware... v2 was beta and had issues for years. I stuck with v1 which they may have now stopped updating (last v1 firmware was 1 year ago), I'm still resistant to moving to V2 tho. There is a learning curve. It's not exactly plug and play like consumer all-in-one units. Your wireless AP's are separate entities. There is a GUI, but several things are left out of it, or harder to configure, so you will likely learn to use the CLI. It's basically a dedicated version of debian linux with router software built-in. I added a couple of scripts so that the ISY could keep track of minutes per month that the primary WAN was down, and set it up to send me Pushover notifications when it switches between the primary WAN and Failover WAN. I haven't rebooted the router in 323 days.... It's rock solid.

AHHH I just learned a new way....

@lilyoyo1 the reason that I don't think it's so much the toggle vs non-toggle is because my mutually exclusive buttons were setup and working for a long time with the buttons still being set to toggle. I simply didn't realize for a really long time to make them non-toggle, and I always kinda half hated that you could turn off the button that was on, but I accepted that... then one day I realized I could make them non-toggle and have them work exactly as I always thought they should. The funny part is I knew non-toggle existed, I've used that for area "all off" buttons since the beginning. (most of the H buttons in my house are non-toggle "all off" for the area you're leaving.)

I think the larger item that will change how it works is multiple controllers on the same keypad vs single controller with the other buttons being responders. I didn't realize the ISY would even allow what he's doing, there a dialog box to the effect asking if you want it to be a responder because another button is already a controller.

@n4bos FWIW, when I was initially trying to convert to a dual WAN router I started with a TP-LINK model (different than what you have), I wasn't having trouble with ISY traffic being blocked but instead it was RDP protocol traffic on Port 3389. At that time (4 years ago) I used it extensively to control the music library in the house.... since then, well now we just say "Alexa...." This was all local network, nothing from the outside, I just couldn't use devices that contacted a specific windows device on port 3389 when the TP-link router was hooked up. I did ALOT of back and forth with TP-link support over 30 days (several emails a day), they kept accusing me of having wrong settings in devices despite the fact i sent them many registry dumps and screenshots. They would have me try this or that, most of which I would do, and reverse back when it failed. Sometimes they would have me try "A" on Monday, and be back to telling me to try "A" again on Thursday. I kept saying over and over, "BUT as soon as I switch back to my old router it works" to which they once actually answered "you (me) have absolutely no idea what you are doing do you? why would you use your old router to test this?" In turn, I kept asking if they had set this up on the same hardware in their lab, to which they once actually admitted they didn't, that they used simulators for testing. Anyway to shorten a longer story, on the 28th day I boxed the router back up and returned it to Amazon before the return window closed. I told TP-link to close the case, about 3 weeks later they emailed again wanting me to test something, I wrote back again please close case, that I had returned the router to the vendor. they contacted me several more times over a few years, each time I told them the case should be closed, and I no longer owned the router. Finally I did get an email about 2 years after the fact that said "we have duplicated these conditions in the lab and will be updating the firmware" 2 months after that they emailed again to say the firmware had just been released but that if it didn't resolve the problem to contact them for a hardware replacement that firmware could not resolve the issue in all cases. That was the second Tp-link product I had tried in many years, the first was junk as well although I didn't return it. I know many people swear by tp-link products for price, but I sure didn't experience support with their networking products. I will never buy tp-link networking anything again..... On the other hand, I have bought a total of 12 tp-link HS103 smart plugs and they work great. The Moral of the story: I think you have a router that drops these packets for whatever reason and it's not your or UDI's fault it's tp-crap. ----- related: I agree with Michel and others above.... to give the ISY a specific IP address, use an Address Reservation in the router and simply leave the ISY set to DHCP, don't change ISY network settings. The router then hands out the same IP address each time based on the MAC address of the device. What doesn't hold true across all router manufactures is whether that address should be inside the DHCP pool, or outside it, or in some cases it doesn't matter. I've seen routers error when it's inside the pool, forcing the assigned address to be outside the pool. I've seen the opposite as well, although less frequently. Then finally the Ubiquiti Edgemax series truly doesn't care, the address can be any on the same logical network and the DHCP server doesn't care if it's inside or outside the DHCP pool, however other ubiquiti product do care...lol

@andrew67 I do have two different 8-button controllers (both 2334-222 Rev 7.7) that control the same 2 fanlinc's with mutually exclusive Off, Low, Med, ,and the light on a 5th button.. the other 3 buttons are used but unrelated to the fanlincs. (so 2 - 8-button wall controllers, 2 fanlincs that are controlled together, 5 scenes total, OFF, Low, Med, High, Light) and the lights on BOTH controllers stay in sync. The only thing that I note that I do differently is only one button in the scene is the controller. That is for the function "High" it is a button that is a controller for the scene, while Off, Med, and Low buttons are Responders to the scene. (yes i waste a button and a scene for OFF, I think now I could save a scene by making the OFF button, a non-toggle OFF controller for one of the other scene's but when I set this up I didn't think of trying that). Also probably unrelated to your debugging, but all of my mutually exclusive buttons are programmed Non-toggle. Also I assume you know this, but in case you don't, when setting things like this up to make use of this button: on the ribbon? It turns off writes to the devices, allow you to make programming changes to multiple buttons and scenes, when your done with the whole keypad or whole group or whole whatever you're setting up then turn the button back on and go refill you coffee (or get another beer). (I got the idea at some point during the read of your post above you might not know.....)

@andrew67 Here are screenshots that will hopefully help you there are a total of 4 scenes but I'm only going to paste two of them. I suspect you are not configuring the Red controller buttons. In my case the functions are for outdoor lightning Day, Evening, Late Night, Bright. The ISY normally sets the first 3 based on sunrise / sunset / bedtime, the 4th mode Bright is always manual, the buttons E,F,G,H exist on a keypad by the door. Note in the above screenshot the Root of the scene is selected. "Front Lights - Evening" these settings are used when the ISY controls the scenes. Above screen shot is Same Scene but note this time the cursor on the tree is highlighting the Controller or RED entry from the previous screen shot. You much set the OFF's on the other buttons here also. Now let's look at the next button. This is similar to the first screen shot. we are setting off for the other buttons added as responders when the ISY is the controller. and finally: Now the RED controller of that scene is selected and I again need to set OFF for the other buttons in the scene. As I said I'm skipping Day, and Late night but they are the same thing..... just different red controller branches. The buttons are "non-toggle"-"on".