MrBill

Both are true. You can get a 30 day free trial for a new device anytime by just adding it to the portal. Polisy also comes with a 2 year portal license. To redeem that license I believe you must email UUID number to support@universal-devices.com and they will manually extend the subscription date. NOTE: portal licensing is per device and not per account. Many users that purchased Polisy early used the free 2 year portal license on the 994 to allow access with Polisy.

It's hard to tell by your word choice, Are you saying you are using "Mobilinc Connect" or the "ISY Portal" (aka: my.isy.io) to connect your ISY to Alexa servers?

I'll counter that with, I try to keep all the magic in my local controller, using Alexa only a "dumb" I/O device. In the beginning the only local controller was the ISY, then ISY got a brother Home Assistant. In the end today it depends which controller has direct control of a device as to which controller get the automation or program or scene or grouping. My son on the other hand.. has recently had to adopt Home Assistant as he was an Insteon hub user. In sorting thru all the "stuff" he's bought and added to his house we find it difficult to make Home Assistant the brain or controller because some many of those "things" are "works with alexa" cloud accounts. At his house Alexa is ending up being a co-controller again, because there are too many cloud only devices not supported by a home assistant integration. When purchasing items he didn't make the connection between "cloud" vs "local" control. Now after the insteon debacle he wishes his "stuff" had all local control, so that he could use Alexa as an I/O device only, retaining local control when the internet is off, alexa's down, or the company goes out of business.

This is essentially the diagram you are describing, however your description has an error. should read: Top of stairs: 14/2 - Power/line in (Black as line was connected to the black screw, white is neutral) 14/3 - Goes to bottom stair switch (white neutral, black and red travelers Should read: Bottom Stair: 14/3 - Goes to top of stairs (white neutral, Black and red traveler) 14/2 - To lights/Load (black to common, white neutral). So as you have discovered, the 2nd switch needs to be the companion switch and not a second of the same model.

There's not enough info to sort out your wiring issue, but remember that will Neutral is always White, White is not always Neutral.... that's particularly true with 3-ways... especially if they are more than a few years old. There's no wiring color standard for 3-ways, and there's about 14 different ways to wire a three way. On traditional switches the black screw is common and the other two screws (brass or silver colored) will be travelers. In most configurations the common at one of the 3-way switches will be Line, and the common at the other end will be load. That doesn't hold true tho when line goes to the fixture first. With 3-ways it's important to test and figure out which of the 14 wiring methods is in use before you take it apart. typically the clue is the black screws, one should be always hot whether the fixture is on or off, the black screw on the other switch is should be hot when the fixture is on, that's load. the other two wires are traveler... it's common for white to be a traveler and not neutral.

I just went back an re-read your question. I may have misinterpreted it before, i thought you were asking about dimming scene's with alexa, you really just wanted grouping.

I ordered https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B096XH56FX/ they did ship from china, but arrived in about 15 days from date of order. the motor they use is a made by https://www.a-okmotor.com/ and includes the batteries in the motor unit. We may order more in the future, there's a couple places we could use them, so far they are just in the masterbath and bedroom.

At this point you don't need the "Pro" option of polisy, neither of the radio's (wifi or bluetooth) is implemented. If you need it in the future, I'm certain there will be an upgrade kit.

I have zigbee shades that include a tubular battery inside the roller. They only need charging about every 6 months so far.

for the fastest answer open a ticket, support@universal-devices.com as someone who reads the forum daily, I don't recall a similar question.

You can replace your 994 hardware with ISY on Polisy. Your PLM connects to Polisy instead. The Admin console is still used as the user interface.

Yea there's another problem here for sure, and it would be better to solve that problem than up retries to 5, which will create a new issue.

For devices in scenes that i want to be able to dim specifically via Alexa I use helper programs. My helper programs have evolved since I originally wrote about this to take on some duties with Home Assistant, however a good place to start is this thread:

Oh perhaps i'm confused, could you give the link to the z-wave devices on lutron.com?

Free cloud services tend to go out of business.... and leave their users in the dark. oh. right. that's the #1 topic on this board right now...

Or buy a polisy and a 700 series z-wave dongle.

lutron isn't z-wave.

There's actually 2 in PG2, I haven't looked to see if they are PG3 available or not. One is holidays, and the other is a google Calendar interface so that you can define your own. https://github.com/firstone/holidays-poly.git https://github.com/firstone/holidays-google-poly.git

I understand now, and you did say it was a z-wave thermostat in the first post. The thermostat is reporting full degrees if it can be changed you need to dig into the thermostats documentation and see if there is a parameter that can be changed. If you need someone to assist with that then post the make/model of the thermostat. I'm going to request this thread get moved over to z-wave section, it's really a z-wave question.

@oper8 is this a temp node generated by a node server? if so which Node server..... right now there are too many unknowns in your question to get the correct answer for your situation.

The reason you can only find dimmers is that the way two wire smart switches work is to "leak" current thru the bulb to complete the circuit required for communication. In the case of an ON/OFF switch it's not acceptable to leak current to thru the load to complete the circuit... OFF must be OFF, no trickle current.

@Westlake Ventures What make/model is the router? Is DHCP enabled?

ALso did you reboot the ISY after you moved it to the router? Unplug and plug back in....

means that it downloads the admin console file from a cloud server, which is faster than (lan) because the 994 is slow at encrypting the file. You're not actually doing anything in the cloud other than getting the admin console file.

are they 99i's or 994i's? If they are 99's i don't know what firmware to suggest you load, it would be old. 99's are deprecated and unsupported. If 994's tell us what both firmware versions say from Help > About