MrBill

@phatmatt My front porch has Hue fixtures now, they want to be always powered. To bypass the switch, I disconnected the wire connected to the RED wire coming out of the switch, and put a wirenut on the now unused read wire. Then I connected the wire I removed from Red to the same wirenut that has the black. Now the Hue fixtures always have power. The switch still sends Insteon Commands back to the ISY, but since they red (load) lead is not connected it's not actually controlling a load.

https would be required, that was your issue. Personally my method would be to open some random port like 33556 and forward it to local.ip.of.polisy:443 various router interfaces make that look different which is one way that it gets confusing. then from the outside i would https://externalIP:33556 An analogy is think of secret agent 33556 checking into a hotel with just a number 33556 as his name, and they assign him/her to room 443. Now if you want to reach the secret agent you call the hotel's external phone number ask for 33556 and get forwarded to room 443.

If port 443 is open as port 443 and forwarded to polisy then it should simply be https://xx.xx.xx.xx the :443 would be option if https was used. where xx.xx.xx.xx is your external IP. A better way.... <I backspaced what I typed to avoid confusion, but it's better not to open port 443 from the outside, perhaps you did that remotely for a short time.. that's not too much of an issue, but there are bad bots that just randomly look for open ports 443.>

To upgrade the 300 series z-wave board to a 500 Series there are discounts applied based on the age of your ISY. I can't find the base price tho, only the discounts. The 300 series firmware board reports Z-Wave version 4.55.00 from the Z-wave menu of the admin console, it also has a Blue LED close to port A on the back of the ISY (if it's not lit you need to shine a flashlight to understand that its a blue LED, otherwise it looks like a black circle). The ISY can only be upgraded to version 5.0.16C with a 300 series board installed. The 500 series firmware board reports Z-Wave version 6.81.00 from the Z-wave menu of the admin console, and does not have an LED.

here's the link: Be certain to backup first, download and install the firmware, clear your java cache, reinstall the launcher from: https://isy.universal-devices.com/start.jnlp and finally as soon as you are back into the admin console after upgrade check Help > About to verify that your firmware and UI versions both say 5.3.4

Yes. Amps = watts / volts 66w / 24v = 2.75amps

Maybe you deleted it ???

There are two versions of the Glendopto controller. 1ID and 2ID. The difference: 1 ID controllers you can only use RGB or tunable white (not both at the same time). Generally this is probably fine, however if you get the 2ID then the RGB and tunable white appear separately allowing you to turn on both color and white at the same time. if you buy direct from superledlighting in china... then yes compression connectors for cutting strips are available. While amazon carries a superledlighting strip similar to what I ordered (Less LED's per meter) Amazon doesn't seem to carry the 5-channel accessories. SuperLEDlighting does ship fast from China. Both occasions that I ordered from them I placed the order over the weekend, both were delivered Friday, shipped via DHL. I order this IP67 version of https://superlightingled.com/dc24v-rgbcct-5in1-480leds-ultradense-series-5050smd-rgbww-flexible-led-tape-lights-164ft-per-reel-96ledsmeter-led-strips-p-2360.html (If using the aluminum channel and diffuser that @lilyoyo1 linked then order the non-waterproof instead of IP67) Various accessories: https://superlightingled.com/6pin-rgb-cct-led-easy-connector-6-pin-12mm-width-solderless-adapter-for-rgbcct-led-strip-lights-1-clip-p-1851.html https://superlightingled.com/6pin-rgb-cct-led-easy-connector-6-pin-12mm-width-solderless-adapter-for-rgbcct-led-strip-lights-2-clip-p-1852.html (note: you can cut the 2clip in half to make two 1 clip) https://superlightingled.com/rgbcct-6-pins-led-strip-connector-terminal-12mm-board-to-board-for-nonwaterproof-tape-light-splice-between-2-segment-strip-lights-p-3251.html https://superlightingled.com/l-shape-6-pins-connector-12mm-right-angle-corner-solderless-connector-clip-for-rgbwarm-white-cold-white-led-strip-lights-conductor-p-2171.html https://superlightingled.com/12mm-6pin-6-pin-rgbcct-no-soldering-easy-connector-for-rgb-cct-led-strip-6-pin-connector-p-2173.html I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GC6VS8I/ (the plug fits the glendopto without cutting it off and using the terminals.) Yes, shorter length consumes fewer watts. Dimming also consumes few watts. Consider that you'll probably never use all 5 channels on at 100%.

Not to drag this off-topic, but you do know there is a corollary to Murphy's law that defines actual time required for any project: To compute actual time required, estimate the time required, multiply by 2 and change the unit of measure to the next highest unit -- therefor a perceived 2 minute project will take 4 hours, likewise a 2 hour project will expand to fill 4 days ??

Before you go too far... do you know what version of firmware is loaded onto your ISY? Your first hurdle is likely to update the ISY. UDI mobile only works with later 5.x firmware versions. So first thing first try the launcher linked in the post above, but once you get into the admin console the first thing to do is Help > About to determine the ISY's firmware version. I am only guessing by the way your post reads, but I suspect your ISY is still on Version 4.x in which case it's not compatible with the new mobile app until upgraded to a later edition of v5.x. There are more questions along the way tho, for example if your ISY has a z-wave board, it will be a series 300 z-wave board, the latest firmware version that works in that case is 5.01.16c (and z-wave board upgrades are available.) If you have no z-wave or already have 500 series board (unlikely but possible if I'm mis-guessing the age of your ISY) then you can load firware v5.3.4.... but HOLD off on that until you've researched more-- for example if you have ISY programs that use the feature "Adjust Scene" those programs will need manual repair after the upgrade.

This is a reliable ebay vendor and deal... I purchased it. Ships from Canada but arrived in about 7 days.

@Michaelv But note the USB Dongle and USB version of the PLM are not directly compatible with the ISY. Some have built an adapter to make it work, others have taken apart the USB and serial versions and swapped parts, or there are 5-7 capacitors that can be replaced returning life to the 2413S.

My next door neighbor uses a TON of COLD white LEDs... I can't stand it when we use the deck at night and their kitchen lights are on. (I had to backspace the next sentence because as my mother always said If you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all). They don't seem to know what Warm White is.... <Rant On> I wish the entire world could STOP using a measurement of energy usage to describe light output. It's so silly to say "My 9Watt bulbs are really like 18W bulbs" Really? do they consume 9, 18 or some other value? How many lumens of light do they emit? <Rant Off>

As mentioned by @apostolakisl in the admin consoles File menu you will find the item "Restore Modem (PLM)". That option has 2 modes of operation. If the address of of the PLM hasn't changed it simply writes the links that should be in the PLM according to the ISY back to the PLM. This is used to remove ghost links from the PLM, links that shouldn't be there anymore.. in that case the PLM is factory reset and then when restore modem is executed it simply put the good links back in. On the other hand if the Insteon Address of the PLM has changed, a much more nuclear process follows, not only are the links added to the PLM, ALL of the device links must be re-written to reprogram the PLM's Insteon address. On larger system this can take a long time. Additionally to minimize problems and collisions the user should not create any other insteon traffic during the massive re-write. That means avoiding turning lights on/or off, and likely its best to remove the batteries from any battery powered devices to stop motion and/or heartbeat traffic. (all wireless devices will have to be delt with separately anyway since each will need to but put in program mode to have it's links rewritten.) and finally stop programs from exciting during the re-write (which can be accomplished with a temporary folder condition on the "My Programs" folder that is always false)

I have to pause and ponder... will this become the next 40 page/1000 post thread?!? it does have a catchy subject....

The Version number and date code on the sticker on the device tell more than the purchase date.

My advice is that whatever is chosen in this day should be RGB+CCT. This is 5 channel lighting, Red, Green, Blue, (cold) white, and Warm White. (I use the term cold white, some people call it by other names "pure white", "true white" or just "white"). CCT stands for Color Correlated Temperature, the jist being that the color of white can be adjusted or fine tuned to any color temp. History (for those reading) is that originally strips were available in RGB only... White came from the equal lumen mixture of all 3, but it was difficult to make it look good. at close range there would be color separation. The 3 LEDs also could react differently with different surfaces, for example in the kitchen a particular backsplash might absorb more blue light than the other colors, while a shiny quartz countertop might reflect more equally. Hard to light evenly with white created with RGB LEDs. In the next generation, strips were available in RGBW or RGBWW (that is White or Warm White, WW not to be confused with 2 white channels), this was a great improvement but required the color of white decision to be made before purchase. Finally, they added both whites and created the 5 channel strip. This is superior because after install and after all finishes have been applied the final color of white light can be chosen. Warm White is often considered 2700K while Pure (cold) white 6500K or greater. With CCT whites you can actually pick something in between like 3500K. It also takes the guesswork out of picking materials and colors because you can find the light color that works best with the final product. (Remember you can't pick colors in the store, you always have to take samples home with it be tile chips or paint chips to see how the color works, a large part of this is the lighting.) Also regarding the controllers protocol, while many choices work on WiFi, and they don't add much to bandwidth consumed from the access point/router, they do add complexity to the WiFi system (they consume IP addresses, they consume routing table and DHCP table entries etc). Personally, I prefer to offload as much as possible to other protocols (and/or hubs). I'm not totally opposed to adding a home automation device here or there to Wifi, but if there's already another choice in place such as Hue, Zigbee, or Z-wave, I'd prefer to take that option. It's a balancing act. Today's home routers probably have large tables and better software, but yesterday's routers didn't... Not so long ago I had a popular home brand that maxed out it's DHCP table at 32 entries, it was high end when I purchased it. But even at that time I realized the device cap was artificial and likely purposely kept low... why? to sell more routers in a few years! The point is: if the user is making the choice hang as many home automation devices on WiFi as possible they should make sure they have an up to date network that can handle the load, and load is not necessarily measured in bandwidth or spectrum. (Today I have a router/AP combination that won't max out anytime soon, but I'd still prefer to offload devices to other protocols.)

I don't specifically know the answer, however there is a button in the portal to reboot the ISY... therefor there is an external method... the question is how to harness it.

I've never had this issue with disabled programs, but after reading others indicating it can happen, Over the summer I created a Run at Startup Program that disables all disabled programs. To locate the disabled programs I created a text backup of programs by copying the entire "my Programs" folder to the clipboard, pasting it to notepad and then searching for all instances of "[Not Enabled]". Then I had to rename some programs because all names must be unique, for example previously I had a number of programs all named FrontDoor, Since the file path or folders aren't used with the Disable Program command in a program I had to rename these... FrontDoor.open, FrontDoor.heartbeat, FrontDoor.LowBatt.. etc Then I created a single Run at Startup Program that disables all the programs that should already be disabled. It then evolved to being the the only run at startup program and its last statement starts the next program that should run at startup.

There is actually an entire Home Assistant Sub-forum within this forum. Also one of the many integration for HA is the Universal Devices ISY994 core integration. Many of us here are using it already.

Nice post... now we just need to wait for the users that are good at reading the event viewer.... as I mentioned.. that's not me... lol.

I wondered about that statement... so far I've been avoiding Tuya from things I'd read... thanks for reaffirming my thinking was not in error...

It could be a bad scene link in the device, you could try right clicking the device and selecting "restore device", and if that doesn't solve it then try the same with one more step... factory reset the device first, then "restore device" again. I sort of have the same thing at the front door, there are four buttons for outside lights, they are labeled "Evening, Late Night, Bright, and Off. They work like radio buttons one and only one of the scenes can be on at a time. The Off button originally sent Off to the Bright scene. Later we needed to have an outlet on in the day, but not late night, so I added a fourth scene and changed the off button to be Day Mode, but because it's still labeled off, I added the button to another scene by itself so after you punch off (which makes the button come on) there is a program that turns just the button scene back off. In reality none of those buttons ever get used! the ISY changes the scene at Sunset, "bedtime" and Sunrise. About once every couple years we have a need for Bright mode and that's the only time the buttons get touched.

I'm not good at reading it but others around here are, but you should post a level 3 Event Viewer of what happens when the program runs. with description of which device ID's didn't work. Also I assumed you tried higher wait times too.... does it only happen when the program runs automatically? or does it also happen if you just randomly run then or run else during the day... the thing I'm getting at is a lot happens when my bedtime routing runs... maybe something else is happening at that time.

This doesn't answer your question, because i don't know the answer to the question asked. I would guess it's not limited to single band tho. What I would try tho is to add a brief wait between each backlight command in the program. 2 or 3 seconds should do... It's only a guess but my guess is traffic jam.