MrBill

Do you have a sceenshot of the NR you're trying to use and the error message window when you click test? Feel free to black out private info.

@silverton38 There's at least 2 threads on Nokia.. one is in the Coffee shop, the other might be the tail end of a long thread in the Smarthome section. there might be more mentions, the news hit around before the end of July

You can add the ISY to the portal and accept the connection in the admin console. At the point you will be using a free 30 day trial license for the new. The next step is to email support@universal-devices.com including both UUID numbers and your portal user name and request that they transfer the paid license from the old UUID to the new UUID.

Re-writing the switch setting is a thing that will lead to eventual early failure. However rewriting the switch twice a day is 730 times per year. A quick google suggest the life of an EEPROM might be 100,000 cycles. Lets say smarthome used cheap EEPROMS tho and the life cycle is only 10,000 cycles... that still means around 13.8 years before failure. That said... any chip that will fail over time, *might* fail early. In our bedroom there are 3 buttons on each of 2 keypads that might be on during the night, one always is they other 2 might be. Anyway I took the buttons off (removing the 4 little tiny screws) and removed the little clear plastic square and painted it with black fingernail polish (just for those 3), the reinstalled the black square of plastic behind the buttons. The result is a nice soft outline of light around the button. It's harder to tell those 3 are lit during the day time, but all 3 are things that you don't really need to see if the button is lit.

House Code M and Device code 13 are both prone to power line noise, with M13 itself being double scary, as well as All Off, the 4 bit binary code for each is 0000. M13 ON would translate to 0000 00000 0010 (unit code have a 5th 0 bit or M All Off 0000 0000 (where X is any unit code) There was no checksum, parity bit or anything else. There was a start code which was often represent as 1110 in writeups but it was really 3 active 0-crossings followed by 3 inactive 0-crossings whenever that occurs in noise, the following 0-crossings are interrupted as bits of an X-10 message... as you can see M and 13 and All off where easy to represent as 0000's (I wrote an early X10 software for the Novation Apple Cat modem. Optionally both a DTMF decoder chip and an X10 transceiver could be added to the blazing 1200 Baud modem, later it was available at 2400 baud. I got as far as being able to dial my modem line, hear a beep and enter some DTMF (touchtones) from the phone dial and have some lights turn on or off. No software whatsoever existed for either of the options, you had to read and write the modem registers directly. I tried to combine that with a commercial software package available for the Novation modem at the time called TAM, for Telephone Answering Machine. TAM used a 3rd party voice synthesizer for the outgoing message and then actually activated a cassette tape recorder to record an inbound callers message. Thanks for the trip down memory lane... that was early 80's)

Could you post the programs that monitors the Leak Detectors? Maybe it's written incorrectly, or perhaps it's a heartbeat program and the message you are receiving is misleading you into thinking it's a false alarm. To paste programs into the forum it's really easy... just right click the program name and pick "copy to clipboard" then in the forum push the <> button in the toolbar and a window will pop up, click into the window and type Control-v.

It will work. If your on the 4.x branch the path of least effort is upgrade to 4.9. From the release Note for Version 4.9: Be certain to follow the directions, and when you're done make sure to check Help > About and make sure both the firmware and UI match to 4.9

Another note to add... After you've updated the firmware and UI (they must always match). the Test button's test email will probably end up in spam. Your actual notifications won't, but the message that calls itself a test will.

What version is your firmware and UI? You likely need to upgrade. There are MANY threads about this, but in short all the way back at the end of last year UDI's outgoing mail server got hi-jacked by spammers. If you're on v4 firmware update to 4.9 if you're on v5 firmware update to 5.3.4

Have you updated to v5.0.4?

it probably will be. They seem to actually de-list items they don't plan to restock, for example 2845 Hidden Door Sensor has been de-listed.

I'll have to pass on this one, I have no Z-wave and don't know how it works in scenes. If know else responds I do know who to nudge....

@JimTurnerThe blue LED is hard to identify if it is unlit without using the flashlight on your phone. A better method: If your ISY has a z-wave board, you will have a z-wave menu at the top of the Admin Console. Check the Z-Wave Version: 4.55.00 = 300 series, the last firmware version compatible is 5.0.16C 6.81.00 = 500 Series, proceed directly to firmware v5.3.4

I believe he will get the license for the balance of the term. Under those instructions you are essentially adding a user, verifying that they can log in, then deleting yourself as an account user. Since they won't be around for there "check if they can log in step" you might just want to create a generic gmail account to add. then you can give the the gmail account, as well as the portal account. That is give the the login information for both the new gmail you created and the portal account it logs into. make both passwords something like Change!Me2 (avoid using 1 as the number because some people can't figure out the difference between 1 and lower case l.

Have you followed the server side instructions? Does an error end up in the ISY error log before the crash? Have you had smtp.office365.com working with the ISY before? Microsoft requires some extra steps to use the outgoing mail server.

spin up a Home Assistant instance and add both the Universal-Devices ISY994 integration and the Homebridge Integration and you're done.

It's really too bad this old thread got bumped, especially since the original post and top of the thread contains incorrect information. I've been using MyQ since 2013 (longer than I've owned an ISY) without issues or monthly cost. The system also works locally without the cloud servers, local buttons, in-vehicle remotes, and outdoor keypads are all local only. The cloud servers only come into play using when using your phone as a remote and/or if you have a home automation system, or subscribe to one of Chamberlain's partners. (Back around 2016 they attempted to charge monthly for some of those connections, the experiment failed and since MyQ only includes integrations from partners with an agreement-- we can only assume that value is exchanged with those agreements, but we don't know if the partner pays in cash or value-added equivalents.) I've found the cloud service to be extremely reliable with 99.9% or better uptime. Chamberlain's API is not published and they don't consider it open. It's been reverse engineered many times for use with every home automation platform, for a time Chamberlain seemed to fight such usage because they don't have a "subscription" based API, instead such systems must poll the servers. The added load likely results in significant cost increases to support the MyQ cloud. NOTE: The use of the word "subscription" two sentences ago has nothing to do the user paying money, in this case the client/server definition applies-- meaning the "client" subscribes to updates from the "server"-- in such systems the "client" doesn't need to poll the "server" every X seconds.

Restart the node server involved. If that doesn't solve it, you'll need to open a ticket so that they can see what's wrong with your cloud instance. support@universal-devices.com

this does work! I think the last time I tried I was too new to HA and didn't yaml very well! thanks for making me revisit it.

There is no "control" equivalent in HA. You can of course use status of a "switch". Or you can set a variable (integer is fine for this, don't use state) via an ISY program and use the variable as a trigger for an HA automation. In the HACS store there is an AppDaemon titled "ISY994 Buttons" that enables "control" type functionality for KPL buttons, not sure if it works for 2477D or 2477S. Note before installing "ISY994 Buttons" from the HACS store you need to visit the Supervisor tab and the main "add-on store" and add "AppDaemon 4" after that install ISY994 from the HACS store. (and YES, at HA they do make add-in, add-ons and "stores" very confusing....)

Yes. With that tight of screenshot I can't tell what controllers you have. but I think your issue is likely what we just discussed the root level, and all Red controller nodes. Also remember that for an ALL On or All Off scene where the switches also are in another scene, that you need to add all node... for Example if Location 1/Button A is the switch that controls the load, and Location 2 button C is the other end of the 3-way Button G on both is All On then you need to have button location 1 A and location 2 C both included in your all on. As far as what happens when all on is pressed you must set the Root level (which is what happens when the ISY sends a scene On, or by Extension also Alexa, Google home, or any remote software), THEN you must also click EACH red controller link and set what happens when an ON is sent from that location. When you make screenshots of scene's please include the tree at the left, so we can see what node you're looking at.

How does it interface with the ISY?

From Home Assistant there are many solutions. You could use Custom Devices created with ISY Programs, However i would probably write this program on the ISY side Program RemoteGarageLightOverride If (none) then Set Set GarageLightScene on Disable Program GarageLightOn Disable Program GarageLightOff Enable Program CancelOverride Else Set Set GarageLightScene off Disable Program GarageLightOn Disable Program GarageLightOff Enable Program CancelOverride Then create two button cards one to run_then and one to run_else type: grid cards: - type: button name: Garage Light Override On icon: mdi:lightbulb tap_action: action: call-service service: isy994.send_program_command service_data: command: run_then name: RemoteGarageLightOverride isy: ISY target: {} - type: button name: Garage Light Override Off icon: mdi:lightbulb tap_action: action: call-service service: isy994.send_program_command service_data: command: run_else name: RemoteGarageLightOverride isy: ISY target: {} Into that same grid I'd add button for the switch.garagelight to show the status. You could also change tap_action: to hold_action: if you want to make the button slightly harder to press or even add confirmation: with a text: field below it. There's also a way to do this with a single button card except it would also require an HACS add-in called Lovelace State-Switch which I use alot. with custom buttons for the ISY.

I use a single state variable to called "sAway", it has 5 possible values -1 Home mode, geofence disabled 0 Home mode, geofence enabled 1 Away mode, geofence enabled 2 Away mode, geofence disabled 3 Vacation mode, geofence disabled Essentially using the portal nodeserver this variable mostly automatically changes between 0 and 1, that is If both mine and my wifes phone has left the geofence away mode is automatically set, when the first one of us returns home mode is set. I have a selector in home assistant to set the other modes., -1 has never been used outside of testing purposes, but its purpose is example: out of town relative visiting that stayed home when we went out, etc., likewise for 2 its been mostly used for testing, setting away mode without leaving. Away mode turns off things like inside accent lighting during the daylight hours, and hot water recirculation skips cycles. Evening lighting is the same in away mode for lights that are normally timed everyday. Just remember instead of using = in the if statement to use >= 1 for away mode, or <= 0 for home mode. mode 3, vacation, does all the same things but also adds "random" lighting, like someone going to the bathroom, someone going to the garage for a minute on random evenings. Or someone up late reading. I've even got a random "opps wrong switch" that turns on back yard flood lights for 10 seconds at a random time on a random day. These are just a few examples of about 40 or so "randomness" programs. Away mode also randomizes "bedtime" for the regular evening lighting. Literally all of these "random" vacation lighting programs are contained in a folder with a folder condition... if $sAway = 3 A couple of tips for generating Randomness: you can set variables to a random value, you can also set a variable to [Current day of week], 0=monday, 6=sunday-- I add 1 to this to make it easier to used with random numbers. for a couple of items that I want to occur on multiple random days, I use random numbers that are generated once a week between 1 and 127 to determine days, the math is too confusing to explain in a forum post... but if you understand binary numbers then 1 to 127 is 7 bits, one bit for each day of the week. Another tip for random waits: the wait statement does have a random checkbox that will say turn a wait 10 min into a random wait of 1 to 10 minutes. If you desire a wait between 40 and 50 minutes, then use two waits in a row in the porgram, wait 40 min without random checked followed by a wait 10 min with the random box checked.

depends on the remote platform. From UD mobil you could just add a button to favorites that run the Then block of Program ManualOverrideStayOn. the problem is that would work anytime. Can probably be more help if you say what you're using for the remote platform... I've had them all.. mobilinc, ekeypad, agave, Home Assistant and UD mobile is what I currently use.