MrBill

Maybe you deleted it ???

There are two versions of the Glendopto controller. 1ID and 2ID. The difference: 1 ID controllers you can only use RGB or tunable white (not both at the same time). Generally this is probably fine, however if you get the 2ID then the RGB and tunable white appear separately allowing you to turn on both color and white at the same time. if you buy direct from superledlighting in china... then yes compression connectors for cutting strips are available. While amazon carries a superledlighting strip similar to what I ordered (Less LED's per meter) Amazon doesn't seem to carry the 5-channel accessories. SuperLEDlighting does ship fast from China. Both occasions that I ordered from them I placed the order over the weekend, both were delivered Friday, shipped via DHL. I order this IP67 version of https://superlightingled.com/dc24v-rgbcct-5in1-480leds-ultradense-series-5050smd-rgbww-flexible-led-tape-lights-164ft-per-reel-96ledsmeter-led-strips-p-2360.html (If using the aluminum channel and diffuser that @lilyoyo1 linked then order the non-waterproof instead of IP67) Various accessories: https://superlightingled.com/6pin-rgb-cct-led-easy-connector-6-pin-12mm-width-solderless-adapter-for-rgbcct-led-strip-lights-1-clip-p-1851.html https://superlightingled.com/6pin-rgb-cct-led-easy-connector-6-pin-12mm-width-solderless-adapter-for-rgbcct-led-strip-lights-2-clip-p-1852.html (note: you can cut the 2clip in half to make two 1 clip) https://superlightingled.com/rgbcct-6-pins-led-strip-connector-terminal-12mm-board-to-board-for-nonwaterproof-tape-light-splice-between-2-segment-strip-lights-p-3251.html https://superlightingled.com/l-shape-6-pins-connector-12mm-right-angle-corner-solderless-connector-clip-for-rgbwarm-white-cold-white-led-strip-lights-conductor-p-2171.html https://superlightingled.com/12mm-6pin-6-pin-rgbcct-no-soldering-easy-connector-for-rgb-cct-led-strip-6-pin-connector-p-2173.html I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GC6VS8I/ (the plug fits the glendopto without cutting it off and using the terminals.) Yes, shorter length consumes fewer watts. Dimming also consumes few watts. Consider that you'll probably never use all 5 channels on at 100%.

Not to drag this off-topic, but you do know there is a corollary to Murphy's law that defines actual time required for any project: To compute actual time required, estimate the time required, multiply by 2 and change the unit of measure to the next highest unit -- therefor a perceived 2 minute project will take 4 hours, likewise a 2 hour project will expand to fill 4 days ??

Before you go too far... do you know what version of firmware is loaded onto your ISY? Your first hurdle is likely to update the ISY. UDI mobile only works with later 5.x firmware versions. So first thing first try the launcher linked in the post above, but once you get into the admin console the first thing to do is Help > About to determine the ISY's firmware version. I am only guessing by the way your post reads, but I suspect your ISY is still on Version 4.x in which case it's not compatible with the new mobile app until upgraded to a later edition of v5.x. There are more questions along the way tho, for example if your ISY has a z-wave board, it will be a series 300 z-wave board, the latest firmware version that works in that case is 5.01.16c (and z-wave board upgrades are available.) If you have no z-wave or already have 500 series board (unlikely but possible if I'm mis-guessing the age of your ISY) then you can load firware v5.3.4.... but HOLD off on that until you've researched more-- for example if you have ISY programs that use the feature "Adjust Scene" those programs will need manual repair after the upgrade.

This is a reliable ebay vendor and deal... I purchased it. Ships from Canada but arrived in about 7 days.

@Michaelv But note the USB Dongle and USB version of the PLM are not directly compatible with the ISY. Some have built an adapter to make it work, others have taken apart the USB and serial versions and swapped parts, or there are 5-7 capacitors that can be replaced returning life to the 2413S.

My next door neighbor uses a TON of COLD white LEDs... I can't stand it when we use the deck at night and their kitchen lights are on. (I had to backspace the next sentence because as my mother always said If you can't say something nice, don't say anything at all). They don't seem to know what Warm White is.... <Rant On> I wish the entire world could STOP using a measurement of energy usage to describe light output. It's so silly to say "My 9Watt bulbs are really like 18W bulbs" Really? do they consume 9, 18 or some other value? How many lumens of light do they emit? <Rant Off>

As mentioned by @apostolakisl in the admin consoles File menu you will find the item "Restore Modem (PLM)". That option has 2 modes of operation. If the address of of the PLM hasn't changed it simply writes the links that should be in the PLM according to the ISY back to the PLM. This is used to remove ghost links from the PLM, links that shouldn't be there anymore.. in that case the PLM is factory reset and then when restore modem is executed it simply put the good links back in. On the other hand if the Insteon Address of the PLM has changed, a much more nuclear process follows, not only are the links added to the PLM, ALL of the device links must be re-written to reprogram the PLM's Insteon address. On larger system this can take a long time. Additionally to minimize problems and collisions the user should not create any other insteon traffic during the massive re-write. That means avoiding turning lights on/or off, and likely its best to remove the batteries from any battery powered devices to stop motion and/or heartbeat traffic. (all wireless devices will have to be delt with separately anyway since each will need to but put in program mode to have it's links rewritten.) and finally stop programs from exciting during the re-write (which can be accomplished with a temporary folder condition on the "My Programs" folder that is always false)

I have to pause and ponder... will this become the next 40 page/1000 post thread?!? it does have a catchy subject....

The Version number and date code on the sticker on the device tell more than the purchase date.

My advice is that whatever is chosen in this day should be RGB+CCT. This is 5 channel lighting, Red, Green, Blue, (cold) white, and Warm White. (I use the term cold white, some people call it by other names "pure white", "true white" or just "white"). CCT stands for Color Correlated Temperature, the jist being that the color of white can be adjusted or fine tuned to any color temp. History (for those reading) is that originally strips were available in RGB only... White came from the equal lumen mixture of all 3, but it was difficult to make it look good. at close range there would be color separation. The 3 LEDs also could react differently with different surfaces, for example in the kitchen a particular backsplash might absorb more blue light than the other colors, while a shiny quartz countertop might reflect more equally. Hard to light evenly with white created with RGB LEDs. In the next generation, strips were available in RGBW or RGBWW (that is White or Warm White, WW not to be confused with 2 white channels), this was a great improvement but required the color of white decision to be made before purchase. Finally, they added both whites and created the 5 channel strip. This is superior because after install and after all finishes have been applied the final color of white light can be chosen. Warm White is often considered 2700K while Pure (cold) white 6500K or greater. With CCT whites you can actually pick something in between like 3500K. It also takes the guesswork out of picking materials and colors because you can find the light color that works best with the final product. (Remember you can't pick colors in the store, you always have to take samples home with it be tile chips or paint chips to see how the color works, a large part of this is the lighting.) Also regarding the controllers protocol, while many choices work on WiFi, and they don't add much to bandwidth consumed from the access point/router, they do add complexity to the WiFi system (they consume IP addresses, they consume routing table and DHCP table entries etc). Personally, I prefer to offload as much as possible to other protocols (and/or hubs). I'm not totally opposed to adding a home automation device here or there to Wifi, but if there's already another choice in place such as Hue, Zigbee, or Z-wave, I'd prefer to take that option. It's a balancing act. Today's home routers probably have large tables and better software, but yesterday's routers didn't... Not so long ago I had a popular home brand that maxed out it's DHCP table at 32 entries, it was high end when I purchased it. But even at that time I realized the device cap was artificial and likely purposely kept low... why? to sell more routers in a few years! The point is: if the user is making the choice hang as many home automation devices on WiFi as possible they should make sure they have an up to date network that can handle the load, and load is not necessarily measured in bandwidth or spectrum. (Today I have a router/AP combination that won't max out anytime soon, but I'd still prefer to offload devices to other protocols.)

I don't specifically know the answer, however there is a button in the portal to reboot the ISY... therefor there is an external method... the question is how to harness it.

I've never had this issue with disabled programs, but after reading others indicating it can happen, Over the summer I created a Run at Startup Program that disables all disabled programs. To locate the disabled programs I created a text backup of programs by copying the entire "my Programs" folder to the clipboard, pasting it to notepad and then searching for all instances of "[Not Enabled]". Then I had to rename some programs because all names must be unique, for example previously I had a number of programs all named FrontDoor, Since the file path or folders aren't used with the Disable Program command in a program I had to rename these... FrontDoor.open, FrontDoor.heartbeat, FrontDoor.LowBatt.. etc Then I created a single Run at Startup Program that disables all the programs that should already be disabled. It then evolved to being the the only run at startup program and its last statement starts the next program that should run at startup.

There is actually an entire Home Assistant Sub-forum within this forum. Also one of the many integration for HA is the Universal Devices ISY994 core integration. Many of us here are using it already.

Nice post... now we just need to wait for the users that are good at reading the event viewer.... as I mentioned.. that's not me... lol.

I wondered about that statement... so far I've been avoiding Tuya from things I'd read... thanks for reaffirming my thinking was not in error...

It could be a bad scene link in the device, you could try right clicking the device and selecting "restore device", and if that doesn't solve it then try the same with one more step... factory reset the device first, then "restore device" again. I sort of have the same thing at the front door, there are four buttons for outside lights, they are labeled "Evening, Late Night, Bright, and Off. They work like radio buttons one and only one of the scenes can be on at a time. The Off button originally sent Off to the Bright scene. Later we needed to have an outlet on in the day, but not late night, so I added a fourth scene and changed the off button to be Day Mode, but because it's still labeled off, I added the button to another scene by itself so after you punch off (which makes the button come on) there is a program that turns just the button scene back off. In reality none of those buttons ever get used! the ISY changes the scene at Sunset, "bedtime" and Sunrise. About once every couple years we have a need for Bright mode and that's the only time the buttons get touched.

I'm not good at reading it but others around here are, but you should post a level 3 Event Viewer of what happens when the program runs. with description of which device ID's didn't work. Also I assumed you tried higher wait times too.... does it only happen when the program runs automatically? or does it also happen if you just randomly run then or run else during the day... the thing I'm getting at is a lot happens when my bedtime routing runs... maybe something else is happening at that time.

This doesn't answer your question, because i don't know the answer to the question asked. I would guess it's not limited to single band tho. What I would try tho is to add a brief wait between each backlight command in the program. 2 or 3 seconds should do... It's only a guess but my guess is traffic jam.

I know more than the average person about networks, BUT I still don't understand how the finding part works, nor do I understand what makes or breaks the named addresses (i.e. //isy or //polisy) from working or not working.

Finder has two type of records that are displayed. Those that it found on it's own, and those that were added via the add button. Yours appear to be the manually added type and your network appears to support addressing //isy. If Finder found an ISY the URL column would be showing an IP address type of link. So... Finder didn't find the ISY, but there are two manually ADDed records being maintained by Finder.

This doesn't make sense. Maybe it's a typo.. but if the scene is turning everything off, then the button should be non-toggle Off. (Not non-toggle On). If the button are controllers for the scene they will already be included as Controllers, however if the All Off it turning off devices that were turned on via another scene, that scenes controller button(s) will need to be included in the All Off scene.

Don't do that!!! If you do, you'll create more issues than you'll solve. At most delete a single nodeserver and reinstall it. Don't hard reset the Polisy and start over unless support@universal-devices.com or a majority of the people here in the forum think that is your best option. Like @larryllix mentions it appears your Dyson node server is an unhappy camper. Check its setup, try restarting it individually. Ask more questions here if you need help with the instructions. Worst case, delete that nodeserver and re-install it. Follow the instructions in the README.. (Click the name of the nodeserver in the store to find the README)

Finder: Finder is the program that locates ISY's on your local network and supplies the IP address to the admin console. If there is only one entry in the finder table it makes an assumption and opens an admin console for that ISY. While many people probably only have one ISY, its still possible to have two entries in the table--first the one that's automatically found from your local network and perhaps a second record that was manually added to access via UDI's portal (this would allow access to your ISY from anywhere in the world via a secure portal, without opening ports on your router.) The finder window is harmless I usually just leave it behind the admin console. The write changes button is a bit of a confusing issue, but before we tackle that topic lets cover did you factory reset the Insteon devices, then add them to the ISY? If you're trying to carryover a previous setup from houselinc by just adding the devices and trying to add previous links I wish you luck, at some point in time you will give up and start over from scratch. Nobody ever wins trying to import an Insteon installation from another platform. You didn't say what you're having difficulties changing, but to change the dim level or ramp rate in a scene you need to edit the scene, not the device. Also you must edit the scene multiple times, once at the root level and once for each controller in the scene. To reiterate that with an example: this is a simple 3-way switching scene with 2 switches, both controllers. If we want to change the On value or the Ramping Rate, we need to first click the Root level "DN Recessed OH (Kitchen)" and edit the scene there, this are the scene attributes when the ISY itself is the controller. Next we need to click each of the RED Controller links and edit the scene under each of those controllers as well. While most people tend to use the same values in all 3 places it is possible to customize and use different values in each of the three. Device attributes: Somewhere along the way.... the write changes button became less useful. When changing these values shown above it's NOT intuitive but change the dropdown on the right, then press the corresponding button on the left to write the change. In other words, change the Dropdown for On Level then click the button "On Level" to the LEFT of the dropdown... yea it doesn't make sense until someone tells you. Another important thing to understand is that Backlight has a bug around it's usage. It works fine for setting the backlight level... but when you move to the next device it will show the LAST setting, not the setting stored in the device you just switched to. So Set the dropdown, and push backlight it will write the change. Whatever the box says when you land on the device is going to either be 0% or the last value that you set. All firmware distribution is done thru the forum. The pinned threads contain download links AND INSTRUCTIONS for upgrade in the first post of the thread. The PINNED threads at the top of the listings are versions that are most current, the thread to The Launcher is also pinned. 5.3.4 is the most current version, technically it's a "test build" but it been out for a few months and no one has reported major issue. (Prior versions are no longer pinned but can be found with search.) The version you're running 5.3.0 is the last "Official release" but is a couple years old now. You're better off with 5.3.4. Version 5.0.16C is pinned because it's the last version that can be used in ISY's that have a series 300 Z-wave board installed. Version 4.9 is for those that haven't yet made the jump to version 5.

The problem is ANY Insteon traffic during the count will invalidate the count. Do you have battery powered device? if so how many? and are they easy to disable? If it's practical disable those by removing the battery. Even a heartbeat signal will throw the count off. You can prevent programs from running by creating an interger variable such as $cFalse or just $iTest and leaving the value at 0. then click the My programs folder at the top of the program tree and enter a folder condition: Since $cFalse (or $iTest) has a value of zero this statement will never be true and will STOP all programs that could interfere with the count. If you have nodeservers, temporarily stop them as well. Obviously you also can't turn a switch on or off during the count either.