MrBill

Do you have wireless Insteon devices? What firmware version are you using? Do you have pro or non-pro?

If you formatted the SD card the default is user admin and password admin Upon logging in you must reinstall firmware 5.3.0 and THEN restore your backup.

Bet it's noise.... I don't think mobilinc does any kind of monitor/retry you're just getting lucky when you reach that try...

You'll want to be sure to set Level 3: What type of fixture and bulb is this? is there a transformer or ballast? or LED bulb?

I thought I typed that that part doesn't make sense... as far as I know it should be no different between mobilinc and the admin console. However using the Event Viewer you can see if anything is different between what is sent. The question about Alexa is relevant tho. Alexa may not be set up to turn off the correct thing, if she never does it. Again use the event viewer to see what is actually happening. BTW... What kind of light/fixture is it?

What kind of light/fixture is it? I suspect noise. It doesn't effect the ON because the noise doesn't start until the light is on, preventing the OFF from being consistently received. What happens if you manually run Then from the ISY (right click the program name, run then)? does it always turn off or only some of the time? For troubleshooting open the Event Viewer (Admin Console) > Tools > Diagnotics > Event Viewer) and set it to Level 3 before 10PM then if you don't understand all the entries you can copy them and paste them into a message in this thread. (I can't read the event log as well as I should, but others here do.) From this wiki: https://wiki.universal-devices.com/index.php?title=INSTEON:_Troubleshooting_Communications_Errors Other things to try for troubleshooting purposes... if you have multiple 10PM events try moving this one to 10:01 or 10:03. You can also try adding multiple off's to the program, separated by wait's... Set 'YardLights' Off Wait 30 sec Set 'YardLights' Off Wait 30 sec Set 'YardLights' Off Wait 30 sec Set 'YardLights' Off Then if you start seeing more consistency in the lights "eventually" getting turned off it's more likely a noise problem. Also if 'YardLights' is a scene, try turning off the load instead. What happens from the admin console (right click, run then) should be the same thing that Lastly, does 10PM in the error log (Admin Console > Tools > Error Log) shed any clues?

@mangoJust to toss this out there..... You can swap faces between 6 and 8 button keypads if that helps you get brightness levels side by side to behave better. there's also a paragraph in that post for 6 button to 8 button. I know your specific problem is v.44 vs v.45, but if you can swap hardware around to get what you want it may be worth it.

There may be a few programs that need manual adjustment particularly if you use "adjust scene". Programs requiring manual adjustment are relatively easy to find... look for Yellow on the programs summary page after the upgrade is complete. Also programs that have a statement that doesn't automatically upgrade will have a comment in place of the missing program line. Another step you can take to make certain you know what the old program looked like is to left click "My Programs" at the top of the program tree (or the very top folder if you've renamed it) then Right Click and pick "Copy Folder to clipboard", now open Notepad or any text editor (preferably one that doesn't add formatting) and paste the clipboard. now you can save the file or leave it open and in addition to your full ISY backup you now have a text backup of the programs for reference. Be sure to BACK-UP as the first step. Also don't stop at 5.3.0 go straight to 5.3.3. There are some programs that don't update automatically... for the most part tho upgrade from 4 to 5 is a smother process than it once was especially with no z-wave.

The problem is that you've only configured it for when they keypad button is the controller. how to accomplish this is a bit differnt between V4 and V5 off the ISY firmware. In V4 there is a copy button you can use. In V5, you need to click the root level of the scene and also configure the scene there. The Red controller link for the keypad button is already done. For Example: with this scene, I need to configure it 3 times, Once at the root level (highlight now), and then again for each of the Red controller links. Each can be different, or all three can be the same configuration.

There's an uglier aspect also, if you haven't thought of it.... deleting devices one by one, factory resetting, then re-adding to a hub or USB PLM. I won't do that until I can't buy anymore PLMs, but I have like 100+ Insteon devices--If your system is smaller, maybe it's not a big issue for you. Also Insteon hubs aren't immune from the power supply problem, my son uses one in his non-isy, Alexa as the brain set-up. The hub failed once, the difference is that smarthome will replace it free of charge and they do some magic so that recovery using the replacement is plug and play. With shipping It took over a week tho. All in all, I think the ISY programming is easier, and it's definitely rock solid, maybe that changes over time as one learns, but for the few HA automations I have written I find it difficult. Comparing the communities, people here in this forum and much more helpful than the much larger in number HA community. The few posts I've made on that forum have not brought any useful help.

I have almost no automatons set up in HA. Using it almost exclusively as a front end to the ISY. I like that I can design my own screens for mobile. I like that I can control a scene but when it's on have the control change to a device dimmer (this requires a lovelace add-on from HACS and an understanding of how to use HA services directly). I've only had HA since about the start of this year and I have been expanding my usage slightly, but I have no intention of moving "programming" that's already working well to HA. It does however provide a level of control that didn't previously exist. It's also WA (or Wife Approved), she disliked both mobilinc and Agave she however enjoys HA as a user... it works like she expects, things are in the order she expects and she doesn't need to remember things like whether to use a scene or device for this or that. As a footnote: I agree with what others have said, that PLM might be on it's way to failure. PLM's are out of stock at smarthome, but there are still 16 available (as of 2 seconds ago) at Amazon. You may want to order a backup.

I use the HA ISY integration and I very sincerely doubt this is caused by that. The UDI HA integration is actually fairly rock solid and actively developed, personally I've never had a problem. Two observations: First, you didn't say you tried restarting the ISY... If you haven't that is the very next thing you should try. Remember that after a boot no battery sensor will have a known status. After reboot I always make a test walk and force them all to report once so that there status is again known. Given that your event viewer window is all blue like that, I think that's further indication you need a restart. Also verify via Help > About your firmware and UI versions are the same. Second, you have a lot of unwritten instructions. Those cause problems even with wireless writes turned off, like you have it. I would put each device that has wireless writes that need to be written into programming mode and get rid of all those. Then if your on a ver. 5 branch less than 5.3.3 get your firmware upgraded because that bug has been fixed and they should no longer accumulate via "adjust scene". Before the fix, I was constantly having to restart the ISY, until I got rid of all the "adjust scene" situations then I could go months again without restart. Finally, what does your ISY error log look like? Any clues there?

you can actually connect two bodies of water by siphon too, and there levels will remain constant. we actually use the concept in out greenhouse, but I googled for a graphic to illustrate: http://www.gardengrapevine.com/RainBarrelDwg2.gif In the greenhouse the hose we use is flexible and has a male hose fitting on one end, so I just submerge the hose and get all the air out of it, then screw a cap onto the end with a fitting to bring it to the other container. As long as both ends remain underwater and no air gets into the hose the siphon principle works. How could you use this concept with a pond? Bury a 5 gallon bucket nearby. Use PVC parts to make a semi rigid mount and feed assembly for a toilet float and position it in the bucket. then use a garden hose remnant to connect the bucket to the pond with a siphon.

they do. I just downloaded both versions from this thread. Please tell us what is happening for you.... and/or include screenshots.

^^^this is Insteon's only consistency.^^^ I hate that change.... it also makes paddles non-interchangeable across all products. Fortunately I don't have any of the new iteration two hole versions, they would just look awkward next to a dimmer or two. White paddles yellow gradually from UV light as well, another Insteon QC fail. @mango: I also just tried as an afterthought setting On 15 / Off 1... the findings are still consistent the V.44 lags the others in the brightness.

The v.44 relay definitely outputs less backlight for an equal setting to a v.45 dimmer next to it, there is also a v.45 8 button dimmer in the same panel, and I included it also, it's levels are the same as the v.45 6-button dimmer. Specially I tried: On 4/Off 0 On 7/Off 0 On 15/Off 0 All set via different iterations of the same program. AA testor - [ID 016B][Parent 0001] If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then Set 'Great RM Fan Lights+#' Backlight On 4 / Off 0 Set 'Great RM Ceiling Fan+#' Backlight On 4 / Off 0 Set 'Great Rm Fireplace Accent#' Backlight On 4 / Off 0 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') I tried to take pictures at each level, but my phone camera seems to correct the backlight light level, the pictures look like all 3 are alike, but visually the v.44 relay is definitely dimmer when set the same as the dimmer next to it. So this is an Insteon issue it appears... not an ISY issue, but your findings are validated the v.44 relay backlight output is definitely visually dimmer than v.45 dimmer devices next to each other when set at the same numeric level.

@mangoAhhhh... I actually have that combo, let me test it specifically...

What model is next to it? another 6-button or something else?

@mango Are you certain? did you SAVE the program and then RUN THEN? The program below sets level 15 backlight correctly on a 6 button switch. AA testor - [ID 016B][Parent 0001] If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then Set 'Kitchen Fan Lights+#' Backlight On 15 / Off 0 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

Actually I forgot that worked.... ( @Geddy take note....)

There's not a good single link I can think of to direct you to, so I'll do a very basic primer here. One problem I think a lot of people have is to understand what a port is.... to simplify understanding change the word "port" to "channel" and think of it kinda like TV channels. That still doesn't quite explain, but it makes the concept easier to grasp. In TV terms think of ABC being on Channel 9, but your router "http://" or hypertext protocol appears on channel (port) 80 (common alternates 8080, and 8088), https:// and ssh appear on channel (port) 443 (common alternate 4443), Outgoing email is often channel (port) 25 or 2525. Incoming email is often on channel (port) 465 or 587..... etc. the entire list of "common ports" is at the Wikipedia link I included a few posts above. Generally ports below 1024, are known as "reserved ports", ports 1024 and above are more fair game for grabbing for random use, BUT there are still lot of notable exceptions below 9999, for example port 3389 is generally only used for Remote Desktop protocol. You can find those with Google, by either asking for the "RDP protocol port number" or in reverse by googling "port 3389". So how did you get to port 100. for these example we'll assume your local network is 192.168.1.XXX and your External IP is 11.22.33.44. Lets say the camera uses 192.168.1.10 port 80 (or 192.168.1.10:80), and the ISY is 192.168.1.20 port 80 (or 192.168.1.20:80). both are using HTTP protocol and likewise they use "channel 80". As long as you are on your local network popping http://192.168.1.20 into your browser is all you need to do to reach your ISY-- the http:// tells the browser use channel (port) 80. But now we want to access from outside or away from home using the IP 11.22.33.44, but wait port 80 is now ambiguous! both the ISY and the camera use port 80. There is more than one way to fix that, and sometimes it works better to use one or the other. 1) You could go to the ISY admin console and change the local port to the ISY to 100 and then forward port 100 to port 100 for the ISY and port 80 to 80 for the camera. Then when your inside the ISY is 192.168.1.20 port 100 and from the outside 11.22.33.44 port 100 (or 11.22.33.44:100). and most consumer routers will simplify that with a feature called "Hairpin NAT" or "NAT loopback" which means that if you use 11.22.33.44 while inside or outside the network. 2) Another common solution is to use "port redirection" when "port forwarding". In this case we make no changes to the ISY, and instead when we set Port forwardging in the router, we program that port 11.22.33.44:100 "forwards to" 192.168.1.20:80. and with "hairpin NAT" you can still refer to 11.22.33.44:100 either "inside" or "outside". In most cases network professionals prefer method #2, because there is not various hardware scattered about with special settings. Instead, the various hardware is all left with it's native settings and all of the magic is done by the router. Now what port numbers should you use? HIGH NUMBERED PORTS. that is 5 digit port number less than 65535. Sticking with 5 digit port numbers keeps you away from using well known port numbers that might be used by something else, and it adds a tiny bit (not much) security. Hackers don't randomly try port 43234 to see if it's open, and likely if they try to port scan all ports your ISP may detect that and help with countermeasures. For example, if I open port 43234 and forward it to my ISY using method 2 above, and hacker X comes along with his port scanner and says lets try 11.22.33.44 all ports from 1 to 65535 my isp will detect the port scan and when hackers port scanner gets to 43234 the isp blocks...or makes it look like a closed port. (people have argued with me that ISPs do this, yours might or might not... mine does, I've tested for it specifically, in fact once I started a port scan on my own IP--the ISPs security protocols basically blocked all ports everywhere on its network from the offshore server I rented for the experiment.) Another reason to stay away from well known ports is they are randomly targets in drive-by port checks. For example if I watch the log on a webserver than I rent i see constant attempts on port 80 and port 433, because both are in fact open and many of the attempts are looking for a WordPress server running outdated versions of WP that have certain security flaws. or for default logins like User Admin and password Admin or password or ChangeMe, all of which at one point or another were default passwords for an account named admin. If your IP has open Ports 80 or 443 I guarantee there random requests from the internet to figure out how to login to whatever is there, camera, ISY or otherwise. So in general, if using port forwarding the best practice is to open HIGH NUMBERED ports, and use re-direction to normal ports for the equipment on your local network. Thus going back to the beginning your isy would be 192.168.1.20:80 but the open port might be 11.22.33.44:43789 which redirects to 192.168.1.20:80, and then your camera at 192.168.1.10:80 might have the open port 11.22.33.44:43889 which redirects to 192.168.1.10:80 There's a lot to unpack, and I still haven't gotten to the basic differences between some ports.... for example the ISY can use port 80 and port 443. the difference is port 80 can be easily "snooped" on as the packet travels across the internet, it's completely unencrypted plain text. If the packets happen to be "sniffed" it's pretty easy to identify usernames and passwords, on the other hand port 443 traffic is encrypted-- only the devices at either end know how to read the contents. All that said the best way is to not open any ports for yourself and use the portal instead. UDI's price simply can't be beat at less than $1 per month paid every year or two. With this arrangement all ports remain closed and the ISY makes an outbound connection to the portal, then to make a connection you connect to the portal instead. No port forwarding to maintain or port numbers to remember.

What's the model number of the Carrier Infinity system? I'm curious if there's a wiring diagram available online. I suspect there is likely a pair of terminals on the control board, or possibly just header pins for "Emergency Shutdown" or "firemans switch".

my personal view is a float valve is the best answer, no electronics. The most common place you will find one of these is in your toilet tank... aka the Fluidmaster 401a. how do you use that with a pond? I've actually seen one just poking up in the corner of a pond before, in that case it's only required to have the correct sized threaded fitting anchored somehow so that it won't raise, lower, or tilt. The pond accessory manufacturers probably have a housing they sell. The swimming pool accessories pages have quite a few, google "pool fillers" (they are actually called 'pool levelers', but a google for 'pool levelers' is polluted with ground leveling kits for above ground pools). This is a popular unit: https://www.pentair.com/en-us/products/residential/pool-spa-equipment/pool-white-goods/automatic_water_fillers.html My pool uses this model, it's quite literally a housing with some fittings, and the guts is a Fluidmaster 401a. But how do you install that in a pond? Remember water seeks it's own level, dig a hole and put it in the ground nearby, connect it with a free flowing pipe to the pond-- the water level in the pond will remain at the same level as the water in the housing of the device-- same principle as when it's sunk into the pool deck, there is literally just a free flowing pipe connecting the fillers housing to the pool, the water level in each remains equal. Want more control? now add a simple solenoid valve to turn the water off, control that with the ISY. In our case the pool fillers happen to be an irrigation zone. With a float valve the filling stops when the pond is full, no electronics to fail.

If it's all working the way you want it to......don't fix it...lol

Standard is 80. I'm guessing you moved away from 80 because of the camera's? are you using port forwarding? if so for what ports (and devices)? often used alternative ports for http protocol when 80 is used for something else... are 8080 and 8088. Then again if 100 is working for you .....why fix what's not broken?