Athlon

Great!

You're welcome. I did the following three times in the Portal, one for each of the three Routines in my Alexa app. Each of the three uses one of the three State Variables I refer to in my post above. Here is how I set up the one for 'JoAnn_Garage_Door_Is_Open_1st_Announcement' Go to your portal, then go to Select tool/Connectivity/Amazon Echo Click 'Variable' My state variable: Use the drop down box to choose your 'State Variable' ('JoAnn_Garage_Door_Is_Open_1st_Announcement' in my case) Room is optional Alexa Category: choose 'Contact Sensor' Contact closed value: for me, 0 works Spoken: I used 'J Gar Dr One' Click 'Save' +++ I created four Routines in my Alexa app, one for each of the State Variables, and one for when her door closes. Here's how I did the Routine for the first announcement. In your Alexa app choose 'Routines' Click the + button to create a new Routine Click the + button to choose a 'When This Happens' Click 'Device' In my case, I chose 'J Gar Dr One' (created above) Finishing the 'When This Happens' section is self explanatory In the 'Add Action' section, choose 'Messaging', then 'Send Announcement' Finishing the 'Add Action' section is self explanatory I did one of these for each of the three announcements triggered by the 'JoAnn's Garage Door Is Open program' detailed in my previous post. I also did one for when the door closes. A State Variable is not needed for that one because Alexa 'sees' the sensor directly, in my case 'Joann Door Sensor' (see images in my previous post). One last thing, when testing the program 'JoAnn's Garage Door Is Open', rather than use 20 minutes between actions, I used 45 seconds so I didn't have to wait 40 minutes to see if it all worked together like I hoped, especially the text sent after the second announcement. The reason for 45 seconds is that you have to let Alexa rest at least 30 seconds between announcements or they risk being delayed.

Sure - I have two doors, one for my wife (JoAnn) and one for me (Dave). I'll show you what I did for her door. Let me say at the outset that I have no idea if I could have done it with fewer steps, more elegant programming or anything else that would be better, however I will say it works. First, here's a screenshot of my main page - JoAnn's IO Link and sensors are circled: Here is a screenshot of the three programs I use to make this happen: Here is a screenshot of the three State Variables used to cause Alexa to make her three different announcements: Announcement 1 - "hello, joanns garage door just opened" (some characters not allowed, btw) Announcement 2 - "hello, joanns garage door is still open" Announcement 3 - "hello, final warning, joanns garage door is still open, you should consider closing it" Screenshots of my Network Resources page and Resource Editor: JoAnn's Garage Door Opens program: JoAnn's Garage Door Opens - [ID 002C][Parent 0001] If 'IO Link-Sensor - JoAnn' is switched Off Then Run Program 'JoAnn's Garage Door Is Open' (If) Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') JoAnn's Garage Door Is Open program (disabled): (The Resource 'JoannsDoorLeftOpen' causes a text to be sent to my cell phone.) JoAnn's Garage Door Is Open - [ID 002E][Parent 0001][Not Enabled] If - No Conditions - (To add one, press 'Schedule' or 'Condition') Then $JoAnn_Garage_Door_Open_1st_Announcement = 1 Wait 20 minutes $JoAnn_Garage_Door_Open_2nd_Announcement = 1 Resource 'JoannsDoorLeftOpen' Wait 20 minutes $JoAnn_Garage_Door_Open_3rd_Announcement = 1 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') JoAnn's Garage Door Closes program: JoAnn's Garage Door Closes - [ID 002D][Parent 0001] If 'IO Link-Sensor - JoAnn' is switched On Then Stop program 'JoAnn's Garage Door Is Open' $JoAnn_Garage_Door_Open_1st_Announcement = 0 $JoAnn_Garage_Door_Open_2nd_Announcement = 0 $JoAnn_Garage_Door_Open_3rd_Announcement = 0 Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action') Alexa makes the following announcement when the door closes - "hello, joanns garage door just closed, all is well" Let me know if you have any questions. Adding spokens for Alexa in the ISY Portal is easy once you have the State Variables set up. I can expand on that if you would like. The integration with IFTTT is covered in the Wiki. I can expand on that if you would like.

Never mind - got it done. Learned some new ISY commands along the way, as well as integrating my ISY with IFTTT to send me a text if one of our doors is left open for 20 minutes or more.

You guys helped me choose the Insteon Garage Door Control & Status Kit ( here in this thread ). Thank you! It's easy to do simple programming with it, like most other Insteon devices. I have our Alexa devices 'Announcing' a door opens or closes using 'Routines' in the Alexa app. I have the Alexa app checking for when a sensor opens or closes. That's working just fine for me. What I would like to do, however, is have Alexa 'Announce' a door is open every 20 minutes until it closes, as well as send me a text message after the second 'Announcement'. After reading through the forums, it looks like IFTTT is the best way for the text piece? I've been playing with different programs to get Alexa to continue to make the announcements until the door closes, but just can't figure it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Yeah - the button to control the doors is large, lit and has 3 buttons in it - 2 control the lights. My 3 gang outlets are in the ceiling near the motor (picture I posted). I'll wire the IOLink in parallel to the 2 wires coming from the large button (the one that controls the door), and put the sensors where suggested near the top center of the doors. I can plug the IOLink into the ceiling where the motors are plugged in now. Thank you for your help - I just ordered them.

Here's the manual - they talk about wiring on page 16. https://www.chamberlain.com/catalogresourcesv3/en-us/shared/files/tucmanuals/114a4256.pdf

It's a Chamberlain - looking for the manual right now... I suppose I could figure out which two wires go to the large button (open/close door) and connect the IOLink to those, rather than the smaller buttons that control the lights.

Thanks Paul. This is a picture of what I have: (I can take a better photo if needed.)

Looks like Smarthome is having another sale today - 50% off Insteon stuff. I have two garage doors, so I need two 74551s. Question - will installing these allow me to still use our existing remotes? I would think so, but want to be sure. My guess is when I use an existing remote, the IOLink will know whether a door is opened or closed and report that activity to my ISY.

Gentlemen, interesting debate. I'll likely go with the IO Link as I'm familiar with the Insteon line and have had very good luck with it over the years. The Z-wave alternative would be a close second for me (at a similar price point). The good news is I have an ISY which supports both, as well as a bunch of TP-Link stuff I have. If either should fail, or go the way of the dodo bird, I'll still be covered.

Why? Do you have a specific product recommendation?

Wow - you guys are quick! Thank you for the advice. Too bad they're not on sale like the others are - may get those anyway... You are both talking about the 74551?

I'm at 5.0.14 and I also have the Z-Wave module. Today's one day Smarthome sale on sensors got me to thinking. Which sensor should I get? My goal is to have my Echo's make an announcement if either of my two garage doors are left open for more than 30 minutes. Currently, I have no home automation devices on them, nor do I need to auto open or close them. I'm leaning toward the 2843-222. Are they impacted by cold temps?

Yes - just took me a few minutes to figure that out after my original post on the subject. We be really happy this is done!

Ben lucky so far, I guess. In two other 3-way situations I had a neutral in each box. Only one more in my home - we'll see down the road!

Only one wire ended up not being used - the red one between the two switch boxes. I've had X10/Insteon for a long time - just my first experience with a module so it took me a few minutes to figure it out. All is working great now - thanks again.

I got them all in sync. I made the two dimmers both controllers and responders in a scene for the module.

Got it done and working! Thank you for all of your help!! The only thing I haven't figured out yet is how to sync the two dimmers and their dimming levels to the module in the fixture. They both turn the module (fixture) on and off, though, which is great! I used this to get it done: @oberkc "At the fixture, connect all blacks together, including black from module, but excluding black from fixture. Connect all whites together, including module and fixture. Connect red from module to fixture black. All grounds go together." Before I did that, I figured out how to get neutral and line to each box using my voltmeter to power the dimmers: @apostolakisl

Yup - but the wife will want to use a physical dimmer as well. I'll also take your suggestion about drawing it out first as well before I rip into it.

Got it, gentlemen. Thank you. I'll be attempting to do this between now and Saturday sometime. @oberkc "At the fixture, connect all blacks together, including black from module, but exculding black from fixture. Connect all whites together, including module and fixture. Connect red from module to fixture black. All grounds go together." The module doesn't have any wires, except for the two 'sense' wires (yellow and purple) which I assume will go unused. It has 2 connections for neutral, 1 for Load, and 1 for Line. (Screw connections, uncolored.) It's the Insteon 2442-222.

Sorry to keep bothering you, but this statement confuses me. I'm going to have 3 Insteon devices controlling one load. The module will be in the ceiling at the load, and the two dimmer switches will be in boxes at each end of the room. The module will be wired as if it were the only Insteon device (load, neutral and line), and the two switches will each need neutral and line. I haven't tested the wires yet, but i know I will have to grab a neutral from the ceiling for each dimmer and most likely a line as well. I will cap off the red wires from the two dimmer switches and all other unused wires in the boxes. Does this sound correct to you?

Will do. For the Insteon dimmers I'm going to put in each box, I believe you told me earlier they won't need the red lead - only the neutral and hot is needed for them if the module has all three connections, neutral, hot (line) and load. I may repurpose wires from the fixture for that.

@apostolakisl Thank you for taking the time. I will do as you suggested as soon as I'm able to and report back here. (I never leave a thread open.) I've installed about 25 Insteon devices around my home over the years, and this is the first time I didn't have a neutral in a switch box, and it's really throwing me off. As for what you mean by 'ohms out', I assume you mean '0' on my ohm meter (set to 2k).

I'm back to this. I've lowered the ceiling fixture and have received my Micro Module Dimmer. In the ceiling I have 3 cables, each with a Black and White wire. Here is how they are connected: Cable 1: B tied to bundle (W from cable 2 and B from cable 3) - W to W from cable 3 and to fixture Cable 2: B to fixture - W to bundle as stated above Cable 3: W to W from cable 1 and to fixture - B to bundle as stated above Here are the original wire connections in boxes 1 & 2: Box 1, Cable 1: W: Connected to B from Cable 2 R: Connected to original dimmer red wire B: Load, connected to original dimmer second red wire Box 1, Cable 2: W: Powered, connected to original dimmer black wire B: Connected to W from Cable 1 Here is the original configuration of the cables in box 2: Cable 1: B connected to black screw on switch I'm replacing, R connected to brass screw opposite black screw on switch I'm replacing, W connected to brass screw on other end of switch I'm replacing These two cables in box 2 are likely not involved, but here is how they are connected: Cable 2: B goes to black screw on other switch in box 2, W goes to B from cable 3 Cable 3: W goes to brass screw opposite black screw on other switch in box 2, R goes to brass screw on other end of other switch in box 2, B goes to W from cable 2 How do I wire the micro module and each box?