Mustang65

Thanks, I just ordered a micro open/close motor control module from Walmart. Will be her Monday. I got if for $37.12 with free shipping. $10 less than on Amazon. Don

I have been using the Insteon Smart Dimmable LED Light Bulb (A19 - 60 watt equivalent) and I seem to be averaging between 9 months and 1 year between replacements. I believe that they cost around $25 each. Well, it is time to replace bulb #3 that just died last night. Are there any other options that I can use to replace the Insteon bulbs and still be controlled by Isy994I without any major programming changes? I should invent a LED bulb that has 2 separate controllers inside the base, then I could just select the second controller, should the first one goes south! Would help immensely when traveling. Thanks Don

Echo Plus UPDATE!!!! I decided to see if I could find out what was causing the raspy voice sound from the Echo. I was shaking it, turning it upside down and I noticed when I picked it up the voice became normal. I put it down and the raspy voice came back. I picked it up and no problem, for some reason I put it down on an envelope and to my surprise there was no raspy voice. I picked it up and put it on the hard counter... yup you guessed it Raspy voice. I cut a piece of thin cardboard and put it under the Echo and it sounds great. It turns out that the Echo has always been on a piece of mail, to keep the letter from falling off the ledge, and it always sounded good. That letter was removed last week. I do not care what is causing the problem, it works, don't fix it!!!! The best news is I do not have to disassemble it.

Well it did not take long, but I believe the Echo Plus has a raspy voice now. Sounds like a ripped speaker. So, I decided to look around and find some teardown instructions. This link takes you through a step by step teardown. First I need to see if I have the extended warranty, if not, well this site should come in handy. Very interesting seeing the innards. Don https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Amazon+Echo+Teardown/33953

Well, I managed to get them both up and running and my original thoughts were to keep the GEM/DashBox Energy Management data streaming to the ISY994I. I want to move the devices and programs to the ISY994ZW. This would eliminate the cluttered ISY log for when I am looking for something regarding the devices, as the DashBox sends a ton of data making it next to impossible to locate things in the log at a fast glance. Sounds good on paper. Now that I am in the process of getting everything ready, I realized that the (1) PLM will be on the ISY994ZW. The issue is that with all the GEM's Energy Management data flowing into the ISY994I, I can not access that data from the other ISY, when certain electrical thresholds are met without going through a bunch of programming hoops. Is this assumption correct? I have to purchase another PLM? Ughhhhhhhhhhh

Mission accomplished, had to reset the one a couple times then it took Thanks Paul

Well, let me eat some crow.... I have 3 items that I am having issues with after the upgrade. 1 - 6 button remote (works fine but when I re-establish a module... ISY says it can not communicate with it.... although the remote works fine?) 1 - On/Off module (unfortunately the only on happens to be the power source for my laptop. It turns on at 6:00AM and off at 10:30PM... I noticed that the module was not on when my laptop shut-down and the battery hit 20%) here again the module responds to commands. I re-established it and will see tomorrow morning what happens) The I tried to re-establish the remote seems to go through the process. Not sure what else to do.

All went as hoped! Thanks

I copied my ISY994I setup to my ISY994ZW, and it went rather well, actually better than I anticipated reading some of the 5.x upgrade dilemmas. I successfully deleted the GEM appearances for the Energy monitor, but let's go back to the initial login. No 9 character problem in the 4.x versions. As requested, I enter a 9 character User ID then a password and I get an error that the "User ID" is not long enough, character wise. I guess that there is a default of admin that is allowed in either field and that happens to be a lot less than 9 characters.

Thanks Paul, I guess it does not matter if the attached communications plugins are Zwave or ZigBee, so it loads the OS then cares for the addons? If that is how it works, then I guess I will just do a backup from the ISY994i to the ISY994ZW, and do a little deleting. Fingers are crossed! Thanks

I did not find any posts that cover this, so here it goes. I now have 2 ISY's, a ISY994I (with ZigBee added), and a ISY994ZW which I just received. Both are running 5...….12. I want to move all the programs, scenes... to the ISY994ZW from the ISY994i (but not the GEM/DataBox part). This way I will have the GEM/DataBox connected to the ISY994I and all the modules connected to the ISY994ZW. Is there an easy way to pull this off without having to enter each one manually into the ISY994ZW? They are both on the same network. I thought about restoring the ISY994ZW using a backup from the ISY994I, but I have all the things from the GEM/DataBox that would also be moved, also and more importantly one is a ZW one is a I so that will not work. Thanks

Just curious... does any one have an Echo in a room where it is close to a window? My question is, if you go outside and you get close to the window and ask "Alexa, unlock the front door" will she hear the request and follow through with the request? Just wondering

I noticed that I never gave you the updated information. I installed the PLM and all the power transformers in a metal water proof box. I ran the Cat5 through the PVC pipe into the Main Service panel and out to the Cable box that houses the ISY, GEM, Dash Box and 1Gb Network switch. All are working perfectly. Here is the link to the pictures if you are interested. The pictures with the ISY and transformer box are toward the bottom. http://www.how-to-doit.com/

Just looking over my LOG file and was wondering if there is a way to keep the GEM data updates from the LOG file (Option ON/OFF), as the updates occur every few seconds. Currently I have to resort the LOG to find the non-GEM items. Can a secondary LOG file be created for import data like the GEM. I did a quick search and did not find any options.

How about a low pressure switch 3.1PSI (max 150 psi allowed) on your pipe. It can be used with the Insteon Remote Control Plug-in Low Voltage Controller. This should also catch a valve that is not totally closing. Don https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K24KN8S/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00K24KN8S&pd_rd_wg=fajQK&pd_rd_r=PXWM0PXED6QA84KFYP4K&pd_rd_w=iopoa

The issue with this one is The battery installed has 3x capacity than in regular Wireless Sensor Tag but is not replaceable.

Amazon has a NPT 3/4" flow sensor. Hall effect type. The sensors on Amazon that start with "G" are British thread not NPT Don https://www.amazon.com/H2OPro-3-Wire-Digital-Collector-Output/dp/B077H8BCJJ/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525561985&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=liquid+flow+meter+npt+3%2F4+inch+sensor

My 2AM thought process. How about this. Get an Insteon/ZWAVE water leak sensor. Seal it tight, probably with epoxy. If you have a pool where the water flows into the return at the pools surface level, they usually have a cover over that area. You may have to mount the water leak sensor sideways because of the antenna, and make the contact connections at a 90 degree angle. Purchase an INSTEON water leak sensor or a ZWAVE if they have one. - While your pool water level is at a point that it needs to be refilled - Measure the space between the bottom of the cover plate and the water level - FILL your pool to the level you want - Measure the space between the bottom of the cover plate and the water level - Subtract the thickness of the water leak sensor case from the above measurements - Extend the 2 INSTEON/ZWAVE water leak sensor contacts on the bottom of the sensor case (solder 2 metal rods to the contacts) - Mount the water leak sensor to the bottom of the cover. - The length of the mounted rods should be a length so that when the water level is low, the rods will not be contacting the water (ISY will see a WET - OFF/DRY - ON) and your program will trigger a "TIME TO FILL POOL" text message and possibly activate a fill pool program (not really recommended). Not sure if you need to reset the sensor each time it has been activated. You can put a wait in the program of maybe 1 hour to insure that the activation is TRUE and not just a wake, or set the program to check at times when the pump is not operating. You may have to clean the extended contacts every now and then, just like my soil moisture sensors. Maintenance You could also program in a timer that would track time between your fill up and refill time to indicate normal loss or rapid loss due to a leak somewhere, like in a pump fitting. Something to think about

I agree, let ISY issue a msg that the water level is low, manually turn on a valve or manually activate an electronically controlled valve. One additional item that I would add to the system would be an electronic water flow sensor. This would be good to see how much water was added using city/well water, also a way to monitor if there is a valve that is not closing 100%. I have both on my main city water supply, need to move them over to ISY sometime in the future.

A water level sensor with an electronic On/Off valve (under ISY control) on the main pool water source. ISY could monitor the water level and allow the water valve to remain open for "X" amount of time and if it has to turn off the valve it (due to time on) can text you.

They have a z-uno processor that you can design around and access with ISY. Well, you can check to see if it will interface with ISY. You could take sensor readings when the pool pump is off, or at a specific time (6am and 11pm)... https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Me/b/ref=w_bl_hsx_s_hi_web_11388845011?ie=UTF8&node=11388845011&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=Z-Wave.Me

Not a swimming pool, but the main rain-barrel (10 in series/parallel). I originally set it up to use the HC-SR04 Ultrasonic distance senor, but had issues when the rain water was filling up the barrel, it would disrupt the true water level by causing LARGE ripples and the output of the sensor would go crazy. I probably could have re-did the script, but I took it out and went back to the old trusty analog float/string/switch method. Still works perfectly. I also started a system that uses a pressure sensor to measure the barrel level. With the pressure sensor and the PVC pipe it will show the actual level without any ripples/waves. I have a 3' piece of 1/2" PVC that has a cap on it and a MPX5010GP pressure sensor that will be secured/sealed in the cap of the PVC. The output will not fluctuate when the rain gutter is dumping rain into the barrel. As for wireless I have a bunch of ESP8266 (xmit/rec) modules, a nodeMCU ESP8266, and a lot of NFR24L01's to choose from. The only thing missing is "TIME"... too many other projects going at one time. Good Luck

Well, I took out my second shortest network cables (6' or 1.8m) cable and with the other cables in the 3/4" electrical PVC conduit, it will not fit. So today, I will make a custom fit Cat5 cable to get the final part of the relocation done. Now where are the tools?

36" is the one that I got. In the old location it worked perfectly.

Thanks, 6' is what I need