Mustang65

True and I probably will attempt something like that. Just noticed that there is a SparkFun UsB-XBee dongle. Maybe something like that could be included as an option for the Polisy. Just a thought

What is your definition of shortly?

Sorry, I missed the factory reset information while searching. Running 5.0.12. I uninstalled the Motion Sensor, did a factory reset, reinstalled it, again came back as a 2842, but continued. After the install was over, I created a new scene with a light and it works fine. I had the sensor about 10' away from a dual-band device. The screen now shows the current status of the sensor. Later, I will try reinstalling it next to the PLM to see if that makes a difference with accepting as a 2844, if not it works fine now.

I had the 2844 up and running with a program and last night I noticed that it was not responding to motion. This is a new sensor and the LED does flash when there is movement. So I deleted it and reinstalled it. So I used the "Link Management" >>> "Link a Sensor" >>> "Motion Sensor. I put in the address, named it and switched the default 2842-222 to the correct 2844-222. When I selected "OK" , I noticed that the program automatically changed back to the 2842. When installed, I get a Can not talk to the Motion Sensor type error. I deleted it again and used the "Install New Insteon Device" and filled in the needed information with the 2844. It did the same thing, changed it to the 2842.... then when I try to add it to a scene, I get the same can not talk to motion sensor .... The screen that shows the sensor On/Off is not showing it. I read a few items regarding Factory Reset the sensor. Doesn't deleting it reset it? If not how do I do it. I pulled the battery out after each attempt. I do see the motion sensor's 3 entries in the left column.

I guess, since I was unable to locate the answer that I was looking for by searching, is the PolISY going to have a xBee transmitter/receiver capabilities to communicate with the GEM or is there is that going to fall under Polyglot somehow? Just curious as to if I will have to keep my ISY994 up and running once the complete Polisy is up and running?

Thanks, GREAT explanation, will give it a try

I know there is a 30 second timer where the motion sensor status = "On", and I timed it watching the status change to "Off" before the code of 1 or 2 minutes passed.

I have a bunch of 2844-222 Motion Sensors. I have one just outside pointing toward one of my back doors. Installed the Motion Sensor and ISY sees it. All good so far. I decided to write some basic code to test the sensor. The below code works perfectly, but only works if I enter the "Set 'Lights - CarPort' Off" in the Else section of the code. When I had the line of code following the "Wait 15 Seconds" (If section) the light comes on when there is motion, but does not shut off. The 15 seconds, was tried with 1 minute and 2 minutes with the same results. I have no problem leaving the code this way, but just trying to understand why there is an issue with having that line of code in the "Then" section? Works the same way with or without the Sunset/Sunrise code. Your thoughts, CarPort Light - [ID 000D][Parent 0001] If 'MotionSensor - CarPort-Sensor' Status is On And From Sunset To Sunrise (next day) Then Set 'Lights - CarPort' On Wait 15 seconds Else Set 'Lights - CarPort' Off

The V.34 leak sensor I have had sitting on my desk for the last 2 years, so returning it is out of the question. Will post if there is an issue or if not.

I just noticed that I have 2 versions of the leak sensor. 1 leak sensor is V.43 and the other 4 are V.44. Issues with using the 2 different versions?

Well, that project will begin tomorrow Thanks

I just finished installing 5 new "Leak Sensors" and after going through this entire thread, with all the changes along the way, is there a copy of the latest and greatest code anywhere? Thanks

Thanks, I need to pick up a 2 gang before the wife gets back home on Monday. This will keep my PAR (Partner Acceptance Rating) in the 90's. I just replaced 2 switches in an old 50's version of a 4x4 electrical box, which is a lot smaller. One switch controlled a wall outlet under the front window the other the outside front porch light. Hard wired the wall outlet and installed an Insteon on/off switch. Even works. Two done 13 to go.

Quick question, Will the Lutron wall switch plates work with the Insteon wall switches?

I do not see the green eco+ on my app yet. I just put the thermostat up to 80 in our long term departures.

The ecobee SMART (Commercial) thermostat I originally had, until the humidity circuit died and caused the firmware to do weird things, had an option for notifying a HVAC repair service if things were outside their normal settings. Never activated that feature. If you think about it, if the thermostat/HVAC processors sense that the coolant level is dropping it could send the ecobee an alert and the ecobee could send the home owner an alert. Maybe averting a cooling system disaster ($$$). Also, if the coils are constantly freezing up it could also let you know and readjust the defrost cycle time. Maybe some day, but not in my life time. There are a lot of things that could be monitored: Duct air flow (dirty filter), compressor temperature (overheating), excessive amount of compressor load on the electrical, the list goes on.. but the HVAC and Thermostat would have to make some standard decisions based on all that data and alert the user. But it would have to take the "THINKING" part out off the consumers decision making Dream on....

The PAYNE HVAC system I have (14 years old) has its own internal timer that will not let the AC start up again until it has been idle for 5 minutes. It doesn't care what the thermostat is requesting, which is the way I like it. I really wish that thermostats had interactive communications between it and the HVAC system. Example, the Payne HVAC system we have goes into defrost mode every 30 minutes (of run time), which after actually watching it over a period of time, determined that here in Florida it was unnecessary (for a AC/heating cycle) and increased the time on the mother board to 40 minutes. I could probably increase it more, but there are to many variables that could make that a bad idea. The defrost mode runs for 2 minutes to insure that the coils are not freezing over. The problem is, the thermostat just keeps telling the HVAC sys to keep the AC/Heat running, which is what is should be doing, but does not post a message on the thermostat that it is in "Defrost mode". This also affects the ecobee's green mode into activating the AUX heat source (electric coils $$$) to kick in, not always but it has happened a few times. The issue I have is that there is a different sound (with all of the PAYNE systems like mine) that it makes and of course the air temperature is affected by this cycle. So, the wife automatically says that the AC/Heat is not working, and I have to go to the back bedroom and listen to the heat pump to hear what sound it is making. It would be nice if the ecobee 4 and Payne would display that it is in "Defrost mode", and I would not get my brain going. I am currently working on a thermostat enhancement that will have 2 LED's on the ecobee, Green will show NORMAL operation RED to show "Defrost Mode". I have the DS18B20 temperature sensors in place (attached to the coils) and currently wired to Home Automation box where the ISY, GEM Dash Box, Arduino and Raspberry Pi are located. I am adding circuits that will tell me if the reversing valves are active or inactive (heat or cold). I would like to install a pressure sensor to monitor the coolant, but that would mean purging the entire system (still a Freon based HVAC). So I guess I will just monitor the existing system's pressure switches. The data will be stored in a dB for trouble shooting if needed. When I need to replace the existing HVAC system, I will try to find one that has a Thermostat that is interactive (probably not available yet), or uses sensors that can be used for more information. As a reference, the data from the GEM energy system and the ecobee data that gets downloaded each month helped isolate a thermostat programming issue that would have cost me AT LEAST $500. Somehow, and I never mess around with the settings once they are set, the Heat Pump low temperature cutoff was raised and the AUX heat set point was changed. Between the stored data from the 2 systems I was able to isolate the problem, but here is why an HVAC system controlled by a 3rd party system would not be recommended... trouble shooting could become a nightmare.

Just received this letter from Rob Lilleness, Insteon's CEO, along with a 50% off coupon. Interesting that less than an hour of saying that I was converting to Z-Wave, I got this email.

Thanks, I just ordered a micro open/close motor control module from Walmart. Will be her Monday. I got if for $37.12 with free shipping. $10 less than on Amazon. Don

I have been using the Insteon Smart Dimmable LED Light Bulb (A19 - 60 watt equivalent) and I seem to be averaging between 9 months and 1 year between replacements. I believe that they cost around $25 each. Well, it is time to replace bulb #3 that just died last night. Are there any other options that I can use to replace the Insteon bulbs and still be controlled by Isy994I without any major programming changes? I should invent a LED bulb that has 2 separate controllers inside the base, then I could just select the second controller, should the first one goes south! Would help immensely when traveling. Thanks Don

Echo Plus UPDATE!!!! I decided to see if I could find out what was causing the raspy voice sound from the Echo. I was shaking it, turning it upside down and I noticed when I picked it up the voice became normal. I put it down and the raspy voice came back. I picked it up and no problem, for some reason I put it down on an envelope and to my surprise there was no raspy voice. I picked it up and put it on the hard counter... yup you guessed it Raspy voice. I cut a piece of thin cardboard and put it under the Echo and it sounds great. It turns out that the Echo has always been on a piece of mail, to keep the letter from falling off the ledge, and it always sounded good. That letter was removed last week. I do not care what is causing the problem, it works, don't fix it!!!! The best news is I do not have to disassemble it.

Well it did not take long, but I believe the Echo Plus has a raspy voice now. Sounds like a ripped speaker. So, I decided to look around and find some teardown instructions. This link takes you through a step by step teardown. First I need to see if I have the extended warranty, if not, well this site should come in handy. Very interesting seeing the innards. Don https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Amazon+Echo+Teardown/33953

Well, I managed to get them both up and running and my original thoughts were to keep the GEM/DashBox Energy Management data streaming to the ISY994I. I want to move the devices and programs to the ISY994ZW. This would eliminate the cluttered ISY log for when I am looking for something regarding the devices, as the DashBox sends a ton of data making it next to impossible to locate things in the log at a fast glance. Sounds good on paper. Now that I am in the process of getting everything ready, I realized that the (1) PLM will be on the ISY994ZW. The issue is that with all the GEM's Energy Management data flowing into the ISY994I, I can not access that data from the other ISY, when certain electrical thresholds are met without going through a bunch of programming hoops. Is this assumption correct? I have to purchase another PLM? Ughhhhhhhhhhh

Mission accomplished, had to reset the one a couple times then it took Thanks Paul

Well, let me eat some crow.... I have 3 items that I am having issues with after the upgrade. 1 - 6 button remote (works fine but when I re-establish a module... ISY says it can not communicate with it.... although the remote works fine?) 1 - On/Off module (unfortunately the only on happens to be the power source for my laptop. It turns on at 6:00AM and off at 10:30PM... I noticed that the module was not on when my laptop shut-down and the battery hit 20%) here again the module responds to commands. I re-established it and will see tomorrow morning what happens) The I tried to re-establish the remote seems to go through the process. Not sure what else to do.