Mustang65

That would be great, except for that equipment would be outside and the constant outages that are over 30 minutes. The last one (2 days ago) lasted an hour and a half and when Duke sent the first text stating that the outage was going to last until 4:30AM which was almost 5 hours. The UPS stopped working in less than a 30 minutes. We were without power for 6 hours a few months ago as Duke was changing out some high-voltage equipment about a mile from our house. That sub-station is constantly undergoing equipment changes, rumor has it from lightning strikes, as we are in Florida. With this setup, so long as there is daylight and the batteries are OK, the circuits will keep running and I will not have to worry about constant reboots. Oh, and this does not include the many short power interruptions (1 minute or less) that occur constantly. My electrical drop from the pole to the meter has been checked to insure that there are no lose connections. This is why I decided to just go with extra parts (SOLAR) and a 12VDC power source with Buck converters that can handle all the HA and EM equipment along with an Arduino and Pi. Also working on a way to get that power back to my SimpliSafe base station as a source for power. The one hurricane we were without power for 4 days or so and I kept changing the batteries every few days. I may just use a 6VDC sealed alarm battery, or 2, with a small charging circuit to keep it topped off. The whole house surge protector upgrade is at the top of the priority list. Those are my reasons for currently going the route that I chose. Down the road I may look at the many different ways of going about this, the one I most like is: - 1.5K / 2K Pure Sine Wave Inverter w/Built in Solar Controller 50A 24V (add a few more SOLAR panels, Isolate the following AC circuits from the grid and run the fridge, security system (cameras/DVR), SimpliSafe Alarm and a few outside LED security lights, along with these electronics of course. I set up our RV for extended dry-camping and do not need any shore-power to survive in it. Something like Simplextech suggested, but if I did that, I would take it to the next level. Picture of the 12VDC power supply. Currently have one supplying power to all the security cameras for the last 3 years.

It is a little difficult to install a UPS on the back outside wall. I do have whole house surge protection and the green LED is still shining today, but I do not have much faith in that indicator. Upgrading the whole house surge protection system is on my list to be done before the summer storms arrive. I am just about finished with the Battery/SOLAR battery and back up/UPS for all the HA and EM systems, by the service panel. Includes 260Ah deep cycle batteries (12Volts) from my RV which I just purchased new batteries for. I know overkill, but they needed a new job. I have a 250 watt SOLAR panel with a MPPT SOLAR charge controller for keeping the battery charged and supplying power to the HA/EM systems on those sunny days. Each of the inputs will power a 12VDC to 5VDC (5amp) Buck converter that will be connected to the UPS circuit board. The 2nd PCB holds the buck converters and MOV's. An 110VAC 10Amp 20VDC power supply is the other source of power. I have the PCB board version 1 up and running and there is minimal voltage drop when I disconnect either of the power sources. There are a bunch of changes to Version 2 of this board. Hope to get this up and running by the weekend, providing the back/leg pain subsides a little.

I went through my cabinet box of power supplies and found one for an extra Wi-Fi modem (5VDC) 2 amp model UL approved and replaced it with that one. Will go on line today and order a few more 2 amp models for backup.

Was not expecting this at all. It was the 5 volt power supply. Replaced it with an extra one that I had and I was able to access ISY as soon as it booted. ISY is up and running again. I need to purchase a few more 5 volt power supplies, of the good kind. Here it is 11PM, dark outside and I am replacing the power supply to the ISY that is located out by the service panel on the back of the house. Glad my neighbors were asleep, I am allergic to lead. Tomorrow, back to trying to install my first node server for ecobee. Thanks for you input

I hit the reset button and now I can ping it. I cleared the Java cache, did the My ISY from the UDI website, I get the ISY Finder, enter my URL and it comes back and says "can not find it". Just to verify, I enter [ http://ip address/desc ] also tried https..... same response. Everything else, (3) Arduino's, (2) Pi's, Security electronics all came back up perfectly. Just the ISY did not. The lights all did their flashing when it booted up. Have to try and find some of those posts regarding the ISY finder . Wife will not be happy when things do not automatically happen still stumped!

Had a power failure at 12:26AM. Everything seems to have rebooted OK, except or my ISY994I. I tried to log into ISY but the find ISY came up blank. So I tried to add the URL back in, with no luck... "Could not find" message. I have a power light and no flashing data RX or TX or Memory lights. Tried rebooting ISY through Polisy, no luck. I cleared the Java cash and reloaded the java thing. No luck. Pinged ISY and no success their either. UN-plugged ISY and the power light came on again. Pinged ISY again with no success. Dead in the water. SD card issue? Should still be accessible and ping able. Any thoughts?

Update: It is 3 months yesterday since I added SOLAR power to the outside gate On/Off sensor (2843-222). Battery voltage is still 1.2 volts in the morning. Still working.

Sorry I miss read the request I thought you were looking for a door bell button solution.

You could use a Insteon 2843 Open/Close sensor. Connect the push button to the external control connectors on the bottom of the 2843. You would probably want to put the 2843 in a different location than the switch so just run small gauge wires between the doorbell switch and the 2843. Or, just mount the 2843 by the door and mount the switch in the 2843 cover, then secure the cover to the base. I use the 2843 in my mailbox. It is mounted on the mailbox door with a ball switch that makes contact when the mail box door is open.

OK, back to the original request. My 1st thermostat was the ecobee Smart (commercial use) thermostat (with optional Equipment Interface) and is the one that I would recommend if you want total control over your HVAC. You will have to do a little hunting for it. If you have zones in your home, this is the one for you. Multiple AC units, more than one Aux heating system, this is it. If you want to have the outside temperature determine if the heat or AC should come on this will meet your needs. I was having high humidity reading issues with it, but I was the one causing the problem, I did not seal the wall opening where the wire went into the thermostat. Amazing what that little hole can do. That is the reason that I went to the ecobee 4, which my wife really likes for how easy it is to use. I purchased the additional Equipment Interface which has relays for fans, humidifiers and for zone use, relay use, remote temperature sensor connections.... Unfortunately ecobee does not make them any more, but they pop up on ebay a lot. The Smart thermostat does not communicate with the new ecobee models. I am trying to figure out a way that I can incorporate it into system, but need to have the main control being done by the ecobee 4 so the wife does not have a hissy fit.

Just hope it is cooler in the place I go to in the life after?

Then add the $ and kWh reports (to the ecobee reports) and it gives you a bigger picture. Example, if you look at the kWh below you will see that I finally got the kWh's close. When I first got the GEM there was a 25% difference between Main1 and Main2. The annual numbers are fairly low as we are traveling a lot in the summer to avoid the heat down here, so the AC is set to 81 and it keeps the humidity right at 50%. Still tossing around SOLAR (6kW to start). Duke Energy should be real happy with me then.

The fan runs the longest, and sometimes I run it just to circulate the air within the house. I just wanted to know how much more time the fan runs than the heat-pump.

I have the white ring around the ecobee. Helps me see the display better from across the room. I down load the monthly data each month and have a summary report for the HVAC that I look at with the total run-times. You can tell I live in Florida. I have not finished adding the monthly totals.

@larryllix should asbril program his motion sensor only to send the "On", before he attempts to go with the motion sensors and variables?

I started this thread back in December of 2019 and still no fix. I guess I will be calling SimpliSafe to reinstate my "interactive" plan $24/month which I switched to the "Basic" plan. The reason for going with the Basic plan was that I replaced all of my (non-essential) SimpliSafe "Open/Close" sensors (set for Alert only) with the Insteon 2843 "Open/Close" sensors, for a $10/month savings. Now I guess I will be reinstalling those SimpliSafe sensors on my outer perimeter locations until the 2843 issues can be cared for. Bummer!

Somewhere along the line I reinstalled 1.0.16C and I still am having the Insteon 2843 Open/Close sensor randomly giving false ON's. Is any one else still encountering the same problem?

Update: It is 2 months today since I added SOLAR power to the outside gate On/Off sensor (2843-222). No change in the voltages, checked today. Great $1(USD) Dollar General investment for a decorative SOLAR lawn light. Still working.

I just got back from Chicago and noticed that there is a 5.0.16C available now. I take it from the posts that the 2843 modules are still reporting false "Open", even in .16C. I had to get on line in Chicago because my mailbox 2843 was malfunctioning more than the normal and disabled it. I put a new battery in it prior to heading up north, so that is not the issue. I now have all 10 2843 sensors disabled. Down to SimpliSafe with "Alarm" only as I dropped the interactive "Alerts" to use the Insteon sensors on the perimeter entry points (gates, screen doors....). Thinking about reinstating the SimpliSafe interactive and reinstalling their sensors (Alert's) on the gates.... Will probably just wait for good news on newer ISY updates before going to the new version.

I loaded it a while back.

It will be 1 month tomorrow that I added SOLAR power to the outside gate On/Off sensor (2843-222). The voltages are about the same. I use the gate about 5 or 6 times a day, so there is some On/Off activity. Still working fine.

I loaded NANO or what ever the normal editor is called. Works fine.

When I reinstalled 5.0.16B, the 2843 sensors started their random triggering again. May just go back to 5.0.12 where the sensors work properly. Not sure how going back to 5.0.12 will work with Polisy, as Polisy wants the latest version of ISY. P.A.R. (Partners Acceptance Rating) is about 0%, as she hates my iPhone beeping for no reason at all. She is the main reason for the reinstall. Uhhhhh Here are a couple False On alerts: GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - DishWasher Current Voltage 122.40 Volts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:43 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - Office-SecurityCameras Status 53.40 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:43 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - WasherShedCarPort Status 1.60 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:43 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - CH22 - FUTURE Current Voltage 122.40 Volts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:43 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - CH29 - FUTURE Current Voltage 122.40 Volts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:44 AM System Log Door - Lanai ScreenDoor-Heart Status On Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:46 AM System Log Door - Lanai ScreenDoor-Opene Status On Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:46 AM System Log Door - Lanai ScreenDoor-Close Status Off Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:46 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 Current Voltage 122.50 Volts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:52 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 Status 74.50 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:52 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - MAIN - 2 Status 183.80 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:52 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - HVAC - 1 Status 7.70 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:52 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - HVAC - 2 Status 3.60 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:52 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - WaterHeater - 2 Current Voltage 122.50 Volts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:52 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - Kitchen-Fridge Status 2.00 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:52 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - WasherShedCarPort Status 1.70 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 08:01:54 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - CH22 - FUTURE Current Voltage 121.90 Volts Sat 2019/12/28 08:01:54 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - CH29 - FUTURE Current Voltage 121.90 Volts Sat 2019/12/28 08:01:55 AM System Log Door - Front ScreenDoor-Heart Status On Sat 2019/12/28 08:01:56 AM System Log Door - Front ScreenDoor-Opene Status On Sat 2019/12/28 08:01:56 AM System Log Door - Front ScreenDoor-Close Status Off Sat 2019/12/28 08:01:56 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 Status 74.20 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 08:02:03 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - MAIN - 2 Status 191.80 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 08:02:03 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - HVAC - 1 Status 7.80 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 08:02:03 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - Kitchen-Fridge Status 1.80 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 08:02:03 AM System Log

I have rebooted Polisy at least 5 times and I enter DNS server 1 (8.8.8.8) and DNS server 2 (8.8.4.4), then SAVE, when I reboot Polisy the DNS server 1 and 2 have 0.0.0.0. Will not save my entered DNS servers. Don

Not sure of the metal ducts you have... round, square or rectangular. I am taking the duct damper approach. The method that I am using is rather easy. First, I have upper wall and lower wall air returns (currently opened and closed manually according to the season) and I am also dividing the house into 2 zones, East (normally cooler) and West. The house uses 12" flexible insulated round ducts in the attic (my second home) for supply and returns, so installing the dampers is easy for me. Upper and lower Return air supplies. I am ordering (1) 12" Normally open damper and (1) Normally closed damper. The normally open damper will be on the "Upper" air return duct and will be active when the AC is running and the "Lower" air return vent's damper will be a Normally closed model. When the HVAC heat is activated, the dampers will reverse their operating positions. During the summer the warmer air at the ceiling will be open to the HVAC return air duct and in the winter the lower air duct will be returning the colder floor level air. Currently, the ecobee Smart (commercial, no longer made) thermostat that I have in my home office will control them as I can have up to 4 zones with it, but will eventually be moving the control over to the ISY. The (2) 10" East and West ducts will be Normally Open and will be controlled by ISY and some DS18B20 temperature sensors. These dampers operate off of a transformer which will make it easy to wire it into a Insteon or Z-Wave module or outlet for attic use. I will use the Amazon purchase as it is easier and maybe a little cheaper when you add shipping to the non Amazon purchases. Some will question if the upper and lower air return vents actually work better. After a few years of manually opening and closing the return ducts (install a 24"x24" painted cardboard), I can actually say "YES" the benefits are 2 fold. First, the thermostat is at 54" above the UN-insulated slab floor, so the temperature monitoring is up high and the couch/recliners are at about 18" off the floor and it is always colder at that level (per the wife). What I have found is that in the winter and using the floor level return vents the warmer air moves downward because the colder air is the air being recirculated and reheated, not the warmer ceiling air. Secondly, the run time of the Heat-Pump is less based on the ecobee data. Just another option to consider.