Mustang65

You could use a Insteon 2843 Open/Close sensor. Connect the push button to the external control connectors on the bottom of the 2843. You would probably want to put the 2843 in a different location than the switch so just run small gauge wires between the doorbell switch and the 2843. Or, just mount the 2843 by the door and mount the switch in the 2843 cover, then secure the cover to the base. I use the 2843 in my mailbox. It is mounted on the mailbox door with a ball switch that makes contact when the mail box door is open.

OK, back to the original request. My 1st thermostat was the ecobee Smart (commercial use) thermostat (with optional Equipment Interface) and is the one that I would recommend if you want total control over your HVAC. You will have to do a little hunting for it. If you have zones in your home, this is the one for you. Multiple AC units, more than one Aux heating system, this is it. If you want to have the outside temperature determine if the heat or AC should come on this will meet your needs. I was having high humidity reading issues with it, but I was the one causing the problem, I did not seal the wall opening where the wire went into the thermostat. Amazing what that little hole can do. That is the reason that I went to the ecobee 4, which my wife really likes for how easy it is to use. I purchased the additional Equipment Interface which has relays for fans, humidifiers and for zone use, relay use, remote temperature sensor connections.... Unfortunately ecobee does not make them any more, but they pop up on ebay a lot. The Smart thermostat does not communicate with the new ecobee models. I am trying to figure out a way that I can incorporate it into system, but need to have the main control being done by the ecobee 4 so the wife does not have a hissy fit.

Just hope it is cooler in the place I go to in the life after?

Then add the $ and kWh reports (to the ecobee reports) and it gives you a bigger picture. Example, if you look at the kWh below you will see that I finally got the kWh's close. When I first got the GEM there was a 25% difference between Main1 and Main2. The annual numbers are fairly low as we are traveling a lot in the summer to avoid the heat down here, so the AC is set to 81 and it keeps the humidity right at 50%. Still tossing around SOLAR (6kW to start). Duke Energy should be real happy with me then.

The fan runs the longest, and sometimes I run it just to circulate the air within the house. I just wanted to know how much more time the fan runs than the heat-pump.

I have the white ring around the ecobee. Helps me see the display better from across the room. I down load the monthly data each month and have a summary report for the HVAC that I look at with the total run-times. You can tell I live in Florida. I have not finished adding the monthly totals.

@larryllix should asbril program his motion sensor only to send the "On", before he attempts to go with the motion sensors and variables?

I started this thread back in December of 2019 and still no fix. I guess I will be calling SimpliSafe to reinstate my "interactive" plan $24/month which I switched to the "Basic" plan. The reason for going with the Basic plan was that I replaced all of my (non-essential) SimpliSafe "Open/Close" sensors (set for Alert only) with the Insteon 2843 "Open/Close" sensors, for a $10/month savings. Now I guess I will be reinstalling those SimpliSafe sensors on my outer perimeter locations until the 2843 issues can be cared for. Bummer!

Somewhere along the line I reinstalled 1.0.16C and I still am having the Insteon 2843 Open/Close sensor randomly giving false ON's. Is any one else still encountering the same problem?

Update: It is 2 months today since I added SOLAR power to the outside gate On/Off sensor (2843-222). No change in the voltages, checked today. Great $1(USD) Dollar General investment for a decorative SOLAR lawn light. Still working.

I just got back from Chicago and noticed that there is a 5.0.16C available now. I take it from the posts that the 2843 modules are still reporting false "Open", even in .16C. I had to get on line in Chicago because my mailbox 2843 was malfunctioning more than the normal and disabled it. I put a new battery in it prior to heading up north, so that is not the issue. I now have all 10 2843 sensors disabled. Down to SimpliSafe with "Alarm" only as I dropped the interactive "Alerts" to use the Insteon sensors on the perimeter entry points (gates, screen doors....). Thinking about reinstating the SimpliSafe interactive and reinstalling their sensors (Alert's) on the gates.... Will probably just wait for good news on newer ISY updates before going to the new version.

I loaded it a while back.

It will be 1 month tomorrow that I added SOLAR power to the outside gate On/Off sensor (2843-222). The voltages are about the same. I use the gate about 5 or 6 times a day, so there is some On/Off activity. Still working fine.

I loaded NANO or what ever the normal editor is called. Works fine.

When I reinstalled 5.0.16B, the 2843 sensors started their random triggering again. May just go back to 5.0.12 where the sensors work properly. Not sure how going back to 5.0.12 will work with Polisy, as Polisy wants the latest version of ISY. P.A.R. (Partners Acceptance Rating) is about 0%, as she hates my iPhone beeping for no reason at all. She is the main reason for the reinstall. Uhhhhh Here are a couple False On alerts: GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - DishWasher Current Voltage 122.40 Volts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:43 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - Office-SecurityCameras Status 53.40 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:43 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - WasherShedCarPort Status 1.60 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:43 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - CH22 - FUTURE Current Voltage 122.40 Volts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:43 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - CH29 - FUTURE Current Voltage 122.40 Volts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:44 AM System Log Door - Lanai ScreenDoor-Heart Status On Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:46 AM System Log Door - Lanai ScreenDoor-Opene Status On Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:46 AM System Log Door - Lanai ScreenDoor-Close Status Off Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:46 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 Current Voltage 122.50 Volts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:52 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 Status 74.50 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:52 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - MAIN - 2 Status 183.80 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:52 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - HVAC - 1 Status 7.70 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:52 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - HVAC - 2 Status 3.60 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:52 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - WaterHeater - 2 Current Voltage 122.50 Volts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:52 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - Kitchen-Fridge Status 2.00 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 07:55:52 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - WasherShedCarPort Status 1.70 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 08:01:54 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - CH22 - FUTURE Current Voltage 121.90 Volts Sat 2019/12/28 08:01:54 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - CH29 - FUTURE Current Voltage 121.90 Volts Sat 2019/12/28 08:01:55 AM System Log Door - Front ScreenDoor-Heart Status On Sat 2019/12/28 08:01:56 AM System Log Door - Front ScreenDoor-Opene Status On Sat 2019/12/28 08:01:56 AM System Log Door - Front ScreenDoor-Close Status Off Sat 2019/12/28 08:01:56 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 Status 74.20 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 08:02:03 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - MAIN - 2 Status 191.80 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 08:02:03 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - HVAC - 1 Status 7.80 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 08:02:03 AM System Log GEM - MAIN - 1 / GEM - Kitchen-Fridge Status 1.80 Watts Sat 2019/12/28 08:02:03 AM System Log

I have rebooted Polisy at least 5 times and I enter DNS server 1 (8.8.8.8) and DNS server 2 (8.8.4.4), then SAVE, when I reboot Polisy the DNS server 1 and 2 have 0.0.0.0. Will not save my entered DNS servers. Don

Not sure of the metal ducts you have... round, square or rectangular. I am taking the duct damper approach. The method that I am using is rather easy. First, I have upper wall and lower wall air returns (currently opened and closed manually according to the season) and I am also dividing the house into 2 zones, East (normally cooler) and West. The house uses 12" flexible insulated round ducts in the attic (my second home) for supply and returns, so installing the dampers is easy for me. Upper and lower Return air supplies. I am ordering (1) 12" Normally open damper and (1) Normally closed damper. The normally open damper will be on the "Upper" air return duct and will be active when the AC is running and the "Lower" air return vent's damper will be a Normally closed model. When the HVAC heat is activated, the dampers will reverse their operating positions. During the summer the warmer air at the ceiling will be open to the HVAC return air duct and in the winter the lower air duct will be returning the colder floor level air. Currently, the ecobee Smart (commercial, no longer made) thermostat that I have in my home office will control them as I can have up to 4 zones with it, but will eventually be moving the control over to the ISY. The (2) 10" East and West ducts will be Normally Open and will be controlled by ISY and some DS18B20 temperature sensors. These dampers operate off of a transformer which will make it easy to wire it into a Insteon or Z-Wave module or outlet for attic use. I will use the Amazon purchase as it is easier and maybe a little cheaper when you add shipping to the non Amazon purchases. Some will question if the upper and lower air return vents actually work better. After a few years of manually opening and closing the return ducts (install a 24"x24" painted cardboard), I can actually say "YES" the benefits are 2 fold. First, the thermostat is at 54" above the UN-insulated slab floor, so the temperature monitoring is up high and the couch/recliners are at about 18" off the floor and it is always colder at that level (per the wife). What I have found is that in the winter and using the floor level return vents the warmer air moves downward because the colder air is the air being recirculated and reheated, not the warmer ceiling air. Secondly, the run time of the Heat-Pump is less based on the ecobee data. Just another option to consider.

Reinstalled 5.0.12 last night. No false door open alerts sent so far.

This morning I have 2 sensors that have reported door "OPEN" and we have not opened the doors. Shutting down all the 2843 sensor programs and in the next few days I will be reinstalling the old version .12 software .

Knock on wood, since I re did the mail box sensor they seem to be working again. No false signals so far.... Let's see if I make it through the night without an alert.

The reason for installing all these Insteon Open/Close sensors is because I eliminated the SimpliSafe Open/Close sensors that I only used for alerts and not alarm (screen doors, perimeter gates, shed..) and installed a bunch of 2843 sensors in their place. I discontinued the $25/Mo SimpliSafe Interactive Plan and switched to the basic $15/Mo plan for the important sensors. The 2843 sensors were working great up until I installed 15.0.16B. I hope that the reset and batteries fixed the problems or I may go back to 15.0.12. Although, I do have one more sensor to deal with, the Mail Box sensor and it beeped a little while ago, but was not opened. When it stops down pouring, I will go out and reset it also.

Well, needles to say I forgot to disable the lanai screen door program last night and at 1:14AM my phone gave me an alert. I looked at the log and it is showing as open at that time. This morning I went to each sensor and took the battery out and replaced it. This worked (so far) for most of the 2843 sensors but a few did not care. So I took the batteries out and reinstalled them again for those that were still confused. Since then I have not received a false door open alert, and when I do open the door they are working fine.... so far. I have all new batteries in them.

As day #1 of Running 5.0.16B has come an gone, I have been having some interesting "ALERTS" generated. My 2843 (R3.0) Open/Close sensors have been triggering and sending me alerts when the doors are not being opened. This was not an issue in Running 5.0.12. I disabled the programs and re-enabled them about 15 minutes ago. There have been no changes to the programs. I think I am going to disable the programs for overnight, and re-enable them in the morning, as I do not want to have them triggering while I am trying to get some sleep. I have not looked at the log files yet. Any thoughts

Never mind, I powered it down and it rebooted ok

Are the fans 110VAC? If so, why not just hook the fans AC power leads to the fridge's compressor's 110VAC power leads. The fans will automatically come on when the compressor gets 110VAC. One less thing to go wrong.