Mustang65

I believe that I was reading that Amazon Smart Plug can be used with ISY. I was just on Amazon (where else would I be) and the Amazon Smart Plug is on sale for PRIME members for $14.99, if you are interested. The price changes from $24.99 to $14.99 when you get to checkout. Don

Just checking, and not sure if it will be an issue, are both switches on the same line? What line is the PLM on? Do you have a signal bridge between L1 and L2". I am guessing it is an Insteon switch. Just wondering

I use the https for remote access and http for local access. I did not enter my public IP for the https entry above. Both work on local use. Only one ISY now, the other one is toast after the lightning strike. Sorry, missed the main part of your question. I have a Ubiquity network controller and everything plugs into it and the 24 port managed switch as it assigns the IP addresses. Still moving them around to different subnets, which was not a problem prior to the hit

Here is the URL that I am using if I accidentally omit the "desc" it does not find it. http://192.168.1.210/desc https://192.168.1.210/desc

At least my RV SOLAR works fine. Total for my 250 Watt SOLAR panel with 260Ah batteries since 2012. Batteries still going strong... OK not as strong as when they were new.

May it "RIP"!!! It has been about 10 months and 4 days since the install of the SOLAR/Battery combination for the 2843 OPEN/CLOSE sensor on my yard privacy gate. I walk out into the yard each night and go out through the gate that has the 2843 sensor on it. As I opened the gate I noticed that my watch did not alert me that the gate was opened and a few seconds later the yard lights did not come on (after sunset). So this morning I opened the 2843, checked the battery voltage and it was "0" volts. I would say it was a good run for the battery. Unfortunately, I am out of 1.2VDC rechargeable batteries, so pulled the SOLAR cell wires off and put a regular battery in. Back up and running. Maybe, I will just have to see how long this battery lasts.

Thanks gzahar, I just did that. I located another post that covers how to compare temperatures. I will give them a try. https://forum.universal-devices.com/topic/25441-ecobee-temperature-sensor-differential-as-variable/?tab=comments#comment-253829

I now have the ecobee node server running on Polisy and need some assistance. I am trying to replace my ecobee attic fan program that triggers the attic fan based on a specific ecobee attic temperature. The problem here is that the roof (not insulated) is always hot and keeps the attic temperature constant,with the fan on or off. The only time that the fan makes a difference is after the Florida sun stops beating down on the roof. I am trying to write some code that will: (1) when the time is Sunset - 1 hour (2) and ecobee outside temperature is 5 degrees less than ecobee attic temperature (5 degrees as a buffer) I have the temperature triggering code up and running, but can not figure how to get the code for comparing the 2 ecobee temperatures. Most likely very simple but beyond me. Here are the 2 ecobee variables that I am working with. This is not the existing program. Ecobee - AtticFan - [ID 0041][Parent 0001][Not Enabled] If Time is Sunset - 30 minutes And 'Ecobee - Living Room / Ecobee - 3 - ATTIC' Temperature > 100.0°F And 'Ecobee - Living Room / Ecobee - 2 - OUTSIDE' Temperature > 90.5°F Then Set 'Fan - Atic' On Else - No Actions - (To add one, press 'Action')

I cut out the LED wiring. I then soldered wires from the SOLAR circuit battery connections and soldered them in the 2843. I put the rechargeable 1.2VDC (Amazon) into the 2843. I thought about having 2 batteries, but I wanted to see if the 2843 would function with only one rechargeable battery, which it has with no issues at all. I would venture to say that there should be no problem with adding a second battery, as the power used will still remain the same, except for an additional minimal internal power loss while idle. The only modification I would make, if using one battery, would be to put the battery in the SOLAR unit and not the 2843. Somewhere down the road the rechargeable battery will bite the dust and since I sealed the 2843 for outside use, it would be much easier to replace the battery from inside the SOLAR charger. Outside motion sensor SOLAR upgrades are next using the larger output SOLAR units from the Dollar Store. Don

It has been 8 months and 20 days and 6 hours since I added the $1(USD) yard light SOLAR panel to the Insteon 2843-222 Open/Close sensor for a trial. The $1 SOLAR and Open/Close sensor are still doing great. In October, I will start adding the SOLAR to the Motion Sensors that I have outside. Will use the 2Volt inexpensive yard light SOLAR panels for those. Mail box current sensor is next.

Well here is a twist to my ongoing "Power Failure" problem at home. Here i sit 565.3 miles from home in my RV. Last night I at 6:59pm Watching a recording of "Homestead Rescue" and I get a SimpliSafe Alert on my phone that my power went out at home. One minute later I get another alert that Power was restored. Normal! Happens every few weeks. I waited 10 minutes and tried to remote into the house system. No access to: ISY, ecobee, GEM, Security Cameras, Raspberry Pi(s), SlingBox. I figured I would wait a while longer and see what happens. At 8:15 PM i tried again, same response. Crap. Is the power really on or is it off? SimpliSafe indicates that the power is on. Called my neighbor across the street and asked if my outside and the living room lights are on. Affirmative! (always a need to go back to basic communications). Great we have power, but no access to any data stuff. So i pinged the Internet modem. No luck. I guess either the modem went south or WOW (provider) may be down. BUT, ISY was still doing its thing (lights on/off). Way to go ISY! Well since there is power and alarms are working, I decide that I would wait until morning to tackle the problem. At 7 AM this morning, everything was up and running. I guess WOW had an outage last night. Now there is a first after a power failure. Love these Power Failures, what a pain.

i do have it on one of the boxes. One of the MS updates said I could no longer use 2003, but I found a way to get it to run. Some of my financial stock macros did not work with the Openoffice. So I still use the 2003 on the other boxes. MS will find a way to kill them sooner or later. The HUP is a 2019 version i think. Still like the 2003 Excel better.

Still running MS Office 2003 on 2 of my boxes. My laptop has MS HUP version of Office running

I purchased an older home of about 1K sqft. So, finding a place to put the electronics is a challenge. A while back I purchased a Structured Media Enclosure (Amazon) that has a hinged door (ordered separately) on it and decided I am going to recess it into the utility room wall with conduit up into the attic. It will be installed below the shelves, but that is not bad as I can pull up a chair to work in the box. The local metal shop will cut a hole at the top and bottom of the door so I can mount a small exhaust fan (with thermostat) to keep the electronics from overheating in the box. I think that with the holes and natural convection will probably do the trick without the fan, but just to be safe. I pre-measured all the electronic equipment and made cardboard cutouts of each and laid them in the enclosure. Plenty of room for what I need. Structured Media Enclosure They now have a 42" version, had they had the option back then I would have went with the bigger enclosure.

As far as I know, you have to go directly to the mfr to purchase this meter. If you find it or any other one that you like, you can always have an electrician install it between your Power companies electric meter and your service panel. Personally, for what ever that is worth, I would go with an Energy Management system, like BrulTech Gem/DashBox. You can get the usage per circuit in your service panel. I capture it for the Mains, and all the individual circuits. Here is a link to my system. I can tell you how much energy my entire house is using down to the ISY light module that is located in my shed. You can have a look at my install by clicking on my webpage that goes into detail on my system. It is VERY accurate and adjustable. Not sure as to how UDI is going to handle the Xbee/Polisy connection. Maybe they will go with the ZigBee® USB stick with ETRX357-LRS Long-range Module. We shall see

Lots or time to work on your variables? $Sunny =0, $Raining = 0, $Snowing = 0 If $Snowing = 1 and if $Residence = $SouthFlorida Then it is time to move to Grand Cayman's Else Stay inside Could have used a few more variables

Here it is 8 days later and at 5:46AM the bedroom lit up, the house shook and my phone letting me know that the power went out. 1 hour and 42 minutes later it came back on. Just looked at the radar and @asbril is about to get that same weather front in the next few minutes. Good Luck, it was a nasty one.

So here it is April 16, about 15 days from our last power outage and a few minutes ago there was a loud explosion. My wife, who was outside said it came from the trail by our street that is located about 50 feet (15m....) from my house. So I walked out to the street and there it was, the power line breakers had popped, which means the transformer which is about 100 yards farther down the trail probably malfunctioned and will probably be replaced. The good part of the story is that these power lines supply power to those living on the other side of the trail, so for once, we did not have to suffer through another power outage. If you look close enough, you can see the tripped breakers.

I am not totally sure but this small unit uses electronics to accomplish the same thing that the larger ones with those old technology big power sucking transformers inside, which only last for about 20 minutes (depending on your UPS size). Correct me if I am wrong.

It looks like you have to many in that rack, it would probably be better to send them down here to me?

The main reason for the DIY UPS is because it will keep the HA and EM electronics from constantly rebooting. Most of the time when the power comes back on there are usually 1 or 2 power ups and downs when they are reconnecting the electrical system. So the electronics start to boot and drop of start again.. drop off and... which plays heck on the electronics. With the DIY UPS the ISY will still be up and running (without AC things working of course), communicating with the Wi-Fi router (Wi-Fi is not active normally) and the Wi-Fi router will be acting as an inexpensive Smart network switch allowing the GEM/DashBox to keep recording all the Energy Management input while still communicating with ISY. There have been a few times where I have had to reboot the ISY and or the GEM/DashBox to get them back to operating normally after a power outage. Hopefully the UPS will accomplish this! If not it will be back to the drawing board.

Here we are 6 days later and another DUKE Energy power outage. This morning I was sitting at my desk in the office and I heard the deep sound of larger trucks going past the house. I looked up at the Security Camera display monitor and there were Duke Energy trucks going past the house, about 4 of them. I thought this isn't good. About 30 minutes or so later, we were without power for 21 minutes. I guess this is getting to be a weekly event now. Stepping up the process for finishing the UPS.

That time of the month again Well here we are 4 months later and as you have probably guessed the East Gate On/Off sensor is still operating as usual. (Knock on wood). The daytime voltages are the same, forgot to head outside this morning to check the pre-sunrise voltages. No issue yet. Inexpensive ($1USD) yard SOLAR light sensor seems to be doing the trick. Now to start on the 3.2Volt outdoor motion sensor SOLAR upgrade using the inexpensive SOLAR yard light SOLAR cell.

Is there a possibility that the power supply may have gone bad? ****** Sorry, missed the part where you changed power supplies

Yes the ISY, BrulTech GEM, DashBox and Gb switch are outside. They have been there for over 2 years now. Here is the link to my website for the install history and pictures. I am working on one more upgrade to the panel. The top right side connections on the UPS board (Above picture) are the battery/SOLAR connections and the right side bottom connections are the AC/DC power supply. The left side connections go to the ISY, GEM and DashBox another board like this one has more connections. The 2 blocking diodes allow you to input power from 2 different power sources to the loads. As long as the source voltages are close to each other there is no issue. The Buck converter board I made, has the ability to adjust the power source output voltages, has fuses and more voltage dividers to remotely monitor the voltages and may add parts to remotely monitor the load current also. Depending on which power supply you want as the primary source of power, you adjust that voltage slightly higher than the other power source voltage. Preliminary tests show a very small voltage drop at the loads when dropping a voltage source. I still need to add two electrolytic capacitors to be a buffer when one power supply drops off. The voltage divider outputs on the boards will connect to a ADC and the output will go to a Pi for remote monitoring. I will update my website with the new panel and UPS when I finish it.