Mustang65

Reinstalled 5.0.12 last night. No false door open alerts sent so far.

This morning I have 2 sensors that have reported door "OPEN" and we have not opened the doors. Shutting down all the 2843 sensor programs and in the next few days I will be reinstalling the old version .12 software .

Knock on wood, since I re did the mail box sensor they seem to be working again. No false signals so far.... Let's see if I make it through the night without an alert.

The reason for installing all these Insteon Open/Close sensors is because I eliminated the SimpliSafe Open/Close sensors that I only used for alerts and not alarm (screen doors, perimeter gates, shed..) and installed a bunch of 2843 sensors in their place. I discontinued the $25/Mo SimpliSafe Interactive Plan and switched to the basic $15/Mo plan for the important sensors. The 2843 sensors were working great up until I installed 15.0.16B. I hope that the reset and batteries fixed the problems or I may go back to 15.0.12. Although, I do have one more sensor to deal with, the Mail Box sensor and it beeped a little while ago, but was not opened. When it stops down pouring, I will go out and reset it also.

Well, needles to say I forgot to disable the lanai screen door program last night and at 1:14AM my phone gave me an alert. I looked at the log and it is showing as open at that time. This morning I went to each sensor and took the battery out and replaced it. This worked (so far) for most of the 2843 sensors but a few did not care. So I took the batteries out and reinstalled them again for those that were still confused. Since then I have not received a false door open alert, and when I do open the door they are working fine.... so far. I have all new batteries in them.

As day #1 of Running 5.0.16B has come an gone, I have been having some interesting "ALERTS" generated. My 2843 (R3.0) Open/Close sensors have been triggering and sending me alerts when the doors are not being opened. This was not an issue in Running 5.0.12. I disabled the programs and re-enabled them about 15 minutes ago. There have been no changes to the programs. I think I am going to disable the programs for overnight, and re-enable them in the morning, as I do not want to have them triggering while I am trying to get some sleep. I have not looked at the log files yet. Any thoughts

Never mind, I powered it down and it rebooted ok

Are the fans 110VAC? If so, why not just hook the fans AC power leads to the fridge's compressor's 110VAC power leads. The fans will automatically come on when the compressor gets 110VAC. One less thing to go wrong.

I was loading a new 2852 (v3.0) leak sensor and ISY is stuck "Linking" for the last 45 minutes. No, I was not sitting here for 45 minutes, I came back and found it still trying to link. How do I stop the linking? I do not want to shut down the program. "Xing" out of the linking does nothing. Running 5.0.16A. Still running..... Thanks

Here is the latest... I decided to go with the smaller SOLAR decorative light that has a 1.2Volt AAA rechargeable battery. I figured if it can fully charge that AAA battery each day for another night of use, it should have no problem keeping the 1.2Volt AA battery topped off. I went to Dollar General and picked up a NEW $1 decorative SOLAR light. I removed the base and took out the 1.2Volt AAA battery that came with it. I soldered wires to the SOLAR battery leads and connected them to the 2843 Open/Close door sensor. I inserted the rechargeable 1.2Volt AA battery. The only battery in the circuit is the AA. I removed the night-time LED. I was going to use the Arduino to monitor the voltage with my data logger, but the data logger no longer works. So, I am/will be doing the monitoring manually until I get a new data logger. Since December 8th, the morning battery voltage has been a constant 1.269 volts. Through out the day the battery voltage with the SOLAR charging, has been between 1.313 and 1.452. At 9PM the battery voltage has been 1.293 volts. The nice thing about using this inexpensive SOLAR cell is that the IC chip disconnects the SOLAR cell when the panel is no longer producing power, so that the cell does not drain the battery at night. As I see it, the issue with monitoring these batteries is that they will constantly show a voltage around 1.2 volts and when they are ready to die the voltage will drastically drop off. I sealed the sensor with electrical tape and a piece of duct-tape at the top... just in case. This gate is under a very large oak tree, but gets most of the afternoon sun. If this works out I will convert the other gate sensors to solar. I will then look at using the larger SOLAR decorative lights (they use a 3.2 volt battery) for the motion sensors that are outside. According to the battery stats, they are good for 500 FULL recharges.

The 1.5 volt regulator (adjustable), is between the SOLAR panel, its rechargeable battery and the 2843. So the panel and its battery (either the small 2 volt battery version or the larger 3.2 volt version) will only put out 1.2 or 1.5 volts to the 2843's 1.2 volt rechargeable battery. There will be 2 batteries in this circuit. The one in the SOLAR cell unit and one in the 2843. Based on how long the 2843 operates on a regular battery, I believe that there will be plenty of power for it. I need to find my Arduino and data logger to get a better idea as to how the project is doing. To start I will just take voltage measurements.

I take that back.... I just found them on Amazon. Will be here Sunday.

Unfortunately, they do not make a 1.5VDC voltage regulator so there is a need for the voltage divider circuit. The 10k pot would connect to the SOLAR (+) and (-) battery connections (output from SOLAR cells) and the center tap would be the power lead to the 2843. Along with the circuit ground.

I am leaning toward the smaller low voltage version, for the first test, which produces between 1.9 and 2.4 volts. This would be an easier circuit to work with. There are two parts to these devices. The battery charging side and the voltage boosting side, which is not needed for the 1.5 volt 2843 (rechargeable) battery. The IC determines if it should be charging or powering the LED based on the output of the SOLAR cells. On the lower voltage unit I am looking at, if the SOLAR cells are providing power the chip it sets the CE pin low which grounds the SOLAR cells and it starts charging the battery. When the cells are no longer providing power the IC no longer sets the CE pin low which opens the SOLAR cell side of the circuit and activates the LED side of the circuit. I will be removing the LED and seeing if it will still charge the battery or if I need to put a resistor in place of the LED. I believe that just removing the LED will not have an effect on the operation. I have a few extra 2843's so I will see if I can get one wired up this weekend. Best I can figure, the regular 1.5Volt AA battery is about 2500mAh. The batteries that come in the SOLAR lights are 1.2Volts 100mAh (1mm longer than a regular AAA battery). I will see how it works in the 2843 before I wire in the SOLAR. The SOLAR cells will put out enough voltage, but not sure if they will meet the battery current needs. I am thinking if it is a new battery, it should be able to keep it topped off during the spring, summer and fall, but not to confident about winter. This may be better handled by the larger SOLAR cell units. We will see. I have not been able to ID the chips being used in the larger units yet. These units use a 3.2Volt 300 mAh battery.

If you are still interested in a SOLAR solution for your outside 2843, here is what I am doing to keep from replacing the batteries. In the past I used a lot of SOLAR/Battery operated garden lights and as I switched them out for different ones, I saved the SOLAR cells. I probably have at least 6 or 7 or more around here some where. So, there are 2 types of SOLAR garden lights that I have a 3.2 volt version SOLAR cell and a 1.2 volt SOLAR cell. I attached the two types with the "no-load" voltages in the sun at 9AM. The 3.2 volts cell was producing between 3.6 volts and 4.1 volts. The 1.2 volt cell was producing between 1.9 volts and 2.4 volts. As far as charging current, I have not gotten to that test yet, but I believe that using the 3.2 volt cell with a 10k ohm voltage divider circuit should supply enough to keep the battery charged for a sensor that gets a lot of use. I will probably add a blocking diode to the circuit to keep any current from going back into the SOLAR cell when it is dark. I will try to test this in the next few weeks and monitor voltage and current. I may start with the smaller SOLAR cell as the gates do not get much use, and the smaller cell should keep the battery topped off. For me it will be an easy mount as I will put them on top of the 4x6 gate/fence posts. Plenty of sun there. I believe that the inexpensive SOLAR garden lights were between $3 and $5 at Dollar General.

Maybe the next generation of Polisy will have a HDMI port, then just add a wireless keyboard/mouse. I have an extra port on my HDMI switch.

With the issue of not being able to locate the Polisy's IP or MAC address, I was thinking of how I set up my MorningStar MPPT SOLAR charge controller. MorningStart, created an App for the PC/Apple that looked for the Charge controller, found it, and allow you to enter your own IP address. It utilized the Ethernet connection on the computer. First you needed to go to Network Sharing and change the adapter settings from Wi-Fi to Ethernet, deactivate the Wi-Fi, plug the MorningStar into the PC's Ethernet jack and then the App found the MorningStar and allowed me to assign my own IP address, Subnet mask, gateway, Primary DNS and secondary DNS. It also gave me the MAC address of the charge controller. This process might work for the Polisy. I think on the network I could put it https://Morningstarxxxxxxx and it also found it.

Nano please

It worked, but only if I used the IP address of the Polisy without the 3000. Thanks

Here it is

That would be a nice since enhancement add to that an automatic shutdown in case of power outages. Since January 1st, we have had at least 15 or more power outages down here in Florida. Although, when I move the Polisy, Isy, Gem/DataBox, NAS, Pi's Arduino's and router to their new panel, it will have battery backup/SOLAR so that should make it easier on the equipment.

no dice... tried 2x "Server not found" Interestingly enough the 442 is my media center Pi [admin@polisy ~]$ sudo killall daemon Password: [admin@polisy ~]$ sudo service polyglot stop polyglot not running? (check /var/polyglot/polyglot_daemon.pid). [admin@polisy ~]$ sudo service polyglot start net.inet.ip.portrange.reservedhigh: 442 -> 442 Starting polyglot. [admin@polisy ~]$

I am unable to access Polisy using https://polisy:3000 or using 443 I was able to locate the Polisy IP address and I am able to access Polisy using SSH. I assigned the local IP address to Polisy and added port forwarding. Still, the only way to access Polisy is using SSH.

good idea... now you need to have the light in the room where the leak is flash red on/off and the rest just stay red. You can eliminate the text phase. Maybe a USB speaker in each room with water and then when there is leak in that room the red lights flash and the song "Row, Row, Row your boat..." starts playing in the room with the leak.... naaaaa, just have isy shut off the water and release the water pressure in the pipes so no more leaks out.

Yes, I have the 2245 Hub, back in the original box